Just wondering If I've found the right radar sensor also curious about adding in switches for BSM which I already have but can only control it from the CMU, AFS and LDW. Also the radar is from a BM and I've got a BN could there be a compatibility issue or not TIA

 

Just wondering If I've found the right radar sensor also curious about adding in switches for BSM which I already have but can only control it from the CMU, AFS and LDW. Also the radar is from a BM and I've got a BN could there be a compatibility issue or not TIA

BAEK* is from BN. Dunno why you think that it's from BM.

Switch block is from BM. I think it's not compatible with BN, though not 100% sure.

 

Those who installed MRCC , according to the manual non-Europe cars can change between normal and MRCC ,Euto can change between MRCC and LIM . Did anybody with eurocar have possibility change betveen normal and MRCC.

 

Today I've tried it in my car.
Cruise button enables/disables MRCC.
LIM button enables/disables LIM.

What's the point in having the ability to use normal CC? I can't think of a single case when having MRCC you would need to use normal CC.

 

Point is when snowing . Badge remains under the snow and MRCC turns off and then no cruise at all. It’s nordic stuff - we have here snow 4month . And I never used LIM - pointless option
Edit - simple 23 B4 b6b5b4 change to 011 dont do that - LIM disappeared but thats all

 

I dont have autohold but I also dont need this unit and wiring. Brake lights going on when MRCC decelerate.

 

Trying to make the corner reflector for calibration, will be wrapped using metal foil. Hopefully it would work

 

U have fule for this pls?

 

Any idea if the NA Cx5 turbo GT can have traffic jam assist turned on with forscan?

 

Hello team,
i've successfully installed & calibrated the radar for '21 CX-9 AWD (w/ SCBS & Autohold from factory, 8.5" display)
The MRCC is working well above 30km/h, but stop & go does not work (MRCC also does not brake)
Tried several as built from other CX-9 in other market but it displayed error codes (even after relearn ABS, SBS, FSC)

DTC is as follow:
SBS/MRCC U0316:09-8A software incompatibility w/ Dynamic Vehicle Module
ABS U02300:64-08

Am not sure if this vehicle needs new ABS pump, but let me know what you think
module & strategy is as follow:

ABS - Antilock braking system
Part number: TA0A-437A0-
Calibration level: TA0A-437A0-
Strategy : TA0A-437K2-C

SBS/MRCC - Smart Brake Support/Mazda Radar Cruise Control
Part number: KD7J-67XA1-
Calibration level: KD7J-67XA1-
Strategy : K131-67XK2-F

 

Yes you need to replace the ABS pump to get STOP and GO working but I think you can get away by just replacing the electronics part of the ABS module, so you don't have to bleed the brakes. Part # TMY3-43-7A0 from a 2018 CX-9 is a good match but they are many others.
2018 Mazda CX-9 ABS Control Unit TMY3-43-7A0 | Mazda-Parts
Check this russian blog Бортжурнал Mazda CX-9 Stop&Go

 

oh this is great info. Thanks so much for the reply, saved me from further tinkering & wasting my time on as built conf.

I managed to enable stop & go & can activate MRCC from 1kmh, but the issues are intermittent DTC (sometimes it comes up sometimes it does not) and it does not actually actuate the brake to control speed, so i changed back to MRCC without stop & go

replacing the whole abs pump is too much work for me haha (or maybe i can outsource it to a workshop nearby).
but actually i wonder:
1. do you by any chance have reference on replacing only the pcb on the ABS module (tried quick search but have not found any)
2. weird that mazda differentiates between adaptive vs non-adaptive ABS pump since a) vehicle is capable of SCBS F & R, & b) GVC+ AWD also needs to control pump

 

all, update on the mrcc retrofit on cx9

1. My ceramic emblem mounting bracket has not yet arrived
2. When i look up my old mounting bracket, it says compatible with adaptive cruise
3. I tried mounting my old mounting bracket + emblem, mrcc still works fine

Now i guess we dont have to use crystal emblem for mrcc to work?

maybe also has something to do with the radar? according to serg there're weak & strong radio radar

 

Hey, which mounting bracket worked best for you? I have a CX-9 with a 360-degree camera and am retrofitting MRCC, but I'm unsure which bracket to choose. I bought one, but it doesn’t support the 360 camera.

Also, how did you connect your MRCC radar to the plug behind the bumper or directly to the CAN Hi -LO connectors near the windshield water tank?

 

Anyone attempted mrcc retrofit on a CX-5 (or other model) in South Africa? Interested to know how you sourced the parts and asbuilt config?

 

Hey, I'm trying to retrofit radar for my Mazda 6 2018. Can anyone smarter than me confirm if I'm ok to splice into these wires for IG1, CAN H/L? (This is the picture of the back of FBCM)

I couldn't find wiring diagrams for M6, however CX5 seems to use exact same FBCM as M6, and this is the wiring diagram I found for it:

Mazda CX-5 Service & Repair Manual - Front Body Control Module (Fbcm) Inspection - Data Network

www.mcx5.org

There are multiple CAN H/L wires it seems, is there any difference which to connect radar to?

Also, in fuse block, there is this empty connector, does anyone know what this is? perhaps I can get IG1, CAN H/L from this to make it a cleaner install?

Thanks!

 

Not quite right, you should use the same twisted pair for CAN-H CAN-L , tap the wires in the bottom row, CAN-H (2P) (white+gray) CAN=L (2N) (red+gray). IG1 (purple) (2M) is correct.

 

Soon I am planning to do a MRCC on my 2018 Mazda 3 GT Hatchback and add shifter paddles, any pointers? For now, I am mainly concerned about the wiring and supporting parts needed for Electric steering wheel control, and software related things including calibration. I will read this forum top to bottom for sure to know everything I can.

 

I don't see the point in radar cruise control, you need to be in control of the car and give yourself plenty of room in front of you rather than rely on software.

 

you need to be in control of the car and give yourself plenty of room in front of you rather than rely on software.

Why should you? Who told you that?

 

Assuming electronics are going to work when the crucial time comes. Give your self plenty of wriggle room and it is not neccessary. People drive far too close to the car in front. The rule of thumb in good weather and visibility is one car length per 10 mph, double that in poor road conditions and reduce speed , put your dipped head lights on by hand not by automatic and also your red rear fog lights. See and be seen.

In a court of law they won't accept that the gizmos didn't work fast enough or didn't work at all. All the same rules apply whether you have them or not.

Just because you have ABS and SCBS , you do not drive at the limit of these devices, which is what people do and thats why they get into accidents or have near misses.
You need to be looking as far ahead as possible to anticipate whats happening 3-4 cars away, rather than panic braking due to the car in front braking in a panic. You should be doing something before the MCC does anything. They cannot see 3 cars ahead. They work on the "Oh, $h1{" principal, rather than "Planning Prevents Panic".

 

So, I spent the 3k way back in 2014 to get this functionality because I read reports of insurance companies seeing about a 30 percent drop in claims with cars that have radar cruise on them. I used to go anti-safety for a long long time, honestly, I'd pull the airbags out of cars, put in high performance tires and brakes and remove ABS systems. Until the one day that my reactions failed me, it was a minor accident. But still it was enough to convince me to go looking the other direction. Also, the radar cruise in my case worked so well it would see farther than I could in the fog at night and start slowing down for a vehicle I hadn't seen yet and I have perfect night vision. Trying to say this makes people less safe drivers. I would argue the opposite by far. There are already a number of distractions on the road no matter what you try to say. It only takes one distraction, a motorcycle flying by, an accident, etc. And that split second system picks up something that just didn't quite catch your eye initially. These systems will firm up the brakes during that split second while alerting you so that when you finally do get your foot on the brake roughly .5 to .9 seconds later your car is ready for maximum stopping power saving you precious distance when it comes to stopping before a hazard. That few feet can mean a world of difference when it comes damages in an accident or just avoiding the accident all together. The radar cruise alone, frees up my mind to be alert to other things like staying awake and watching traffic rather than worry about keeping my distance behind the guy in front of me and keeps me from draining into sleepy driving. Also, things like blind spot detection, are useful in these cars which have a sports car profile blind spot.

BTW, my detection systems have saved me more than once. The car made it nearly 220k before it had an accident of any type and that was from someone else hitting it. The other was from a tire tread kicked up behind an 18 wheeler that basically resulted in a new bumper and some splash guards. I call it a win...

 

That's cool

 

@Jack32 You don't need a fancy 3D model print to build a corner reflector, you can get away using paper or light cardboard, glue and aluminum foil. Print image, cut it, glue aluminum foil, bend dash lines and glue flap as shown in figure.
It would resemble a trihedral, a prism with 3 sides.
Test it with a laser pointer, it should reflect back to the source.

 

One thing I don't understand, at least in my M6 2018, I don't see an option in forscan to calibrate front radar or blind spot radars, and workshop manual says that I need M-MDS. Do these DIY reflectors work only on certain radars that are able to calibrate from forscan, or am I missing something? (I doubt people that calibrate on their own, buy M-MDS)

 

Really, click in the wrench ICON, Service Procedures and don't need to use IDS. DYI works the same as expensive ADAS reflector. Just shine a laser beam from your laser pointer onto the aluminum surface inside the model and this beam will return back.
I never did a BSM calibration, Mazda have 3 different types of BSM and only one of them can be aligned with the same MRCC corner reflector. The other types need the super expensive Doppler simulator, only dealers can have it on loan from Mazda Corp.

 

Guys i have been trying to do dadar callibration for 2 days and always get error code 5 every single time, i have made 5 different reflectors in different sizes, adjusted the tripod in multiple different heights, used a laser pointer to align it, switch between multiple location even made sure at close to 1degree on forscan, check in forscan livedata 5m distance on reflector, and still error code 5. Next idea on my dayoff would be redoing the callibration without bumper, i think the badge might be an issue as i bought from alibaba. And i will 3d print reflector so that its more sturdier. Any suggestions would gelp me very much. Thanks

 

Here are some photos of my setup

 

If you are outdoors the pyramid needs to be more rigid and triangles well define. Don't forget the property of the corner reflector is to bounce the signal no matter where it hits inside the prism and return it back to its source.
Sorry to be repetitive but a laser pointer is a great tool to test your build.
I never seen the codes you're getting and the emblem could be a factor or possible your radar is defective.
You should go back and inspect your asBuilt modifications and wiring.
if you want something sturdier use wood, similar what this guy did:

https://www.mazda3revolution.com/posts/2506505/

 

Hi everyone, I need help!

Does anyone has buttons on the steering wheel like on picture? Exactly the SAME?

 

This is for newer models with traffic jam assist (tja)

 

May I ask what for @kpexsmiff

 

Hi everyone,

After reading through the forum, I attempted to calibrate the MRCC on my 2013 Mazda 6 GJ. My original radar was diagnosed as defective by a Mazda dealer, so I bought a new one with the same part number (GHP967XA1). Forscan indicates that calibration is required.

I’ve tried using two different triangles made of paper and aluminum foil, but I keep encountering Error 5, with the process stopping at 27%. We’ve attempted to find the perfect positioning using a construction laser, but the issue persists.

Does anyone know what could be causing this? I can see live parameters from the radar, so does that mean it’s functioning correctly? Also, should I perform the YAW rate sensor calibration before attempting the MRCC calibration?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’m also attaching pictures of the faults I receive after clearing them and when attempting calibration.

Thanks!

 

Have u checked my post above on how I fixed mine.

 

Anyone here in New Zealand wanting to do a radar retrofit I have a spare Radar sensor for sale from a CX5 kf

 

Hi, I had this exact same issue on my 2014 mazda 6 atenza gj. All same issues in forscan. I took it to mazda yesterday and they said the forward looking sensor requires alignment and they want me to replace the windscreen then they would do the alignment again.