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Mazda 3 Service Manual

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62K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  CerealKiller  
#1 ·
I'm not sure where to post this but I stumbled across some service procedures but I haven't found a way to just upload all of the information.

If you're looking for disassembly processes for exterior or interior parts, just let me know. I can take some screenshots for you.
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure where to post this but I stumbled across some service procedures but I haven't found a way to just upload all of the information.

If you're looking for disassembly processes for exterior or interior parts, just let me know. I can take some screenshots for you.

I'm pretty sure my 2016 2.5 just blew a head gasket. Looking for a detailed description of the tear down Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#14 ·
Hello! Sorry to resurrect this from the grave, but I managed to do something that's been driving me nuts when using this PDF. Mainly, the fact that it doesn't open with bookmarks open, and those bookmarks not being properly collapsed. To fix this, I had to break the ownership security (bookmarks not opening by default is a per PDF setting and you can't change it without having editing permission) and save the PDF as a different file to change the bookmark view upon opening. Here is an updated PDF that fixes those issues and makes this much easier to navigate upon opening. Since security is now unlocked you can make changes to this PDF by the way in case there's something you might want to note for yourself if you have acrobat or another PDF editor.
 
#16 ·
Basically the way I diagnosed it is...
1) no heat was coming out of vents in the cabin.
2) My temperature light started to Flash After about 20 minutes of driving and I immediately turned the engine off
3) I opened my radiator there was no coolant in it. I opened my oil cap And that's where I found my coolment mixed with the oil.
So either a blown head gasket or I may have a crack in the block somewhere.
 
#17 ·
Yeah that's pretty solid, sorry man. With rad empty and coolant in the oil, blown HG or cracked head/block really are your only options. Sounds like it's blown pretty good too. you can do a compression test but I think we all know what it's going to show. That much coolant in the oil is very bad for the rod and crank bearings as well. Keep in mind that these motors have very tight bearing tolerances so the effect is amplified.

At this point I'd start looking into getting another motor. If it's a cracked head or block, you're doing that anyway. If it's the HG, it's probably not worth fixing it not possible without a new head or block.

You did well shutting it down when it got overheated but the fact still remains that it was overheated. As mentioned these motors don't take kindly to that short or not. In my case it was a collision with an animal on the highway. Broke my rad open, lost all the coolant. I too pulled over and shut it off immediately. Didn't matter, still have a slightly leaky HG. Cylinder 2 and 3 show slightly low compression, indicative of a warped head or block. I'm lucky in that it's so mild that it doesn't matter much but you're obviously well beyond that.

If cost is a concern (usually is with a big repair like this) I'd get a used motor from a junkyard. See if you can find one that has relatively low mileage and has been scrapped due to a side impact. If it's head on there's no way of knowing if coolant was lost and it overheated. You may find www.car-part.com helpful here.

With the design of these motors, a failed HG without some sort of outside cause (like my case) is extremely rare. Unfortunately when they go bad, they go in a bad way. Not easily repaired like older cars that had looser tolerances and a cast iron block.