Interesting... Good to know. Then the hub and wheel bore maybe do a superior job at centering the wheel onto the hub... than even very carefully and progressively snugging-up the lug nuts.

 

Probably not. The lugs do the actual centering, and its going to be the same result regardless of how careful you are. Each lug nut, at ~85 ft/lbs, generates about 4000 pounds of clamping force. That 20,000 pounds total. I doubt that a small nylon ring would be able to resist that type of pressure. The lugs are going to center themselves on the seats, and any hub centering ring will be easily deformed accordingly to fit around the hub boss.

 

I have found that without a hub centric ring, it can be harder to get the right balance. I upgraded my old 1997 Honda Civic from 14" to 16", and there was a noticeable shimmy at highway speeds that was only resolved by adding hub centric rings.

 

Thanks. Makes sense. Opens up a lot more choice.

 

Thanks. I’ll give that a try. I wonder if there are apps/sites where I could upload a pic of my car and a rim and see what it looks like “on”?

 

Also, try playing around with the build and price configurator on Mazda website...they offer alternative wheels -- find a silver one that kind of looks like the ones you are looking at. Not 100% but gets you close enough than stock black ones.

I did that when looking for my winter wheels.

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The ad did list 67.1 mm Centre bore ...

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Thanks. I’ll keep looking. Winters not that close that I need another PITA.

 

You have hub-centric wheel fixing on your Mazda, if memory serves 67.1mm. When you run a bigger centrebore wheel on a hubcentric design, the studs are asked to operate on a "shear" basis, and as such, they could fail. You are then relying on the clamping force of the wheel onto the wheel hub to be able to resist the wheel loadings, and if slippage occurs, then the shear-resistance of the studs. Whereas, if the proper hubcentric fixing is properly observed, the loading is directly onto the hub by way of an indexed-fit.

I would never run lug-centric, if the basic design is hub-centric.

I have lug-centric on my 1979 VW bus... but in that case the lug-nuts are not simply cone-profile, but rather spheric-type lug nuts... in other words, by Design, by VW. Regardless of the sphere-type lug nuts, the studs in that case are, by Design, set-up to work in shear.

You could, of course, get hub-centering rings... essentially rings that tighten-up the annular space, fill in the gap. Bit of a PITA... but possible.

 

You have hub-centric wheel fixing on your Mazda, if memory serves 67.1mm. When you run a bigger centrebore wheel on a hubcentric design, the studs are asked to operate on a "shear" basis, and as such, they could fail. You are then relying on the clamping force of the wheel onto the wheel hub to be able to resist the wheel loadings, and if slippage occurs, then the shear-resistance of the studs. Whereas, if the proper hubcentric fixing is properly observed, the loading is directly onto the hub by way of an indexed-fit.

No.......this is one of the biggest car forum myths going. The Mazda rims are only "hub-centric" because the hub is in the center.... Most modern rims are lug centric, and that includes Mazda rims. The 60° conical seats determine the location of the rim. The hubs are not load bearing, and the rim isn't even in contact with the protruding part of the hub after torqueing the lugs. The only way these rims would be hub centric is if they were interference fit or had a single point center attachment such as the Halibrand knock-offs used on Shelby Cobras in the 1960s or the single hub nut used on F-1 cars. There are literally millions of cars out there that have wheels with center bores that are larger than OEM.
The lugs, which are held under tension, provide clamping force to hold the rim in shear on the hub. When torqued properly this force is distributed evenly across the face of the hub, and this is what carries the weight of the car. The studs can only be damaged if the nuts are not tightened properly.
Hub centering rings serve one purpose, and that is to make it easier to put the wheels on the car. If there were any part of the vehicle weight being applied to the hub a set of nylon centering rings would last all of 5 minutes before being crushed. In addition, those rings are mostly more trouble than they are worth. The plastic ones break, can melt if the wheel gets too hot, get stuck in the rim, the aluminum rings corrode badly and can be a real pain to remove.
This from the Goodwin Racing site -
Folks ask us all the time if hubcentric rings are required. They are NOT. They are a convenience item for centering the wheels properly, the lugs do the final centering. They are not a load bearing item which is why they can, and usually are, made of nylon reinforced plastic.

 

What if the center bore is larger? These supposedly have a 73.1. Nice that they already have winters on. Tire size good?

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Biggest fitment issue is the hub center bore. Mazda is 67(?) mm. Honda is smaller, so if Hyundai shares that dimension, then no.

Looks? A little heavy for me, but that me.

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Are centre cap fastening details, like dia etc a standard out there?

 

Good looks is subjective. You can always change out the centre caps for Mazda ones.

SHOULD fit...offset is close enough.

 

Looks are subjective - but some things no matter how nice they are by themselves are just butt ugly together. Good to hear that they should fit.