Sounds like a wheel bearing if its moving in both directions. Maybe the axle nut is a bit loose?

 

The wheel bearings were replaced about 10k miles ago under warranty at the dealership, but I'll ask them to check that out too. Thanks for the tip.

Being able to twist the outer tie rod by hand along with the steering symptoms was my main reason for thinking the tie rods are done.

CV axles are new and the axle nut was removed and reinstalled a couple thousand miles ago for that.

The wheel hubs are still original. If the bearings are bad, I'll probably get a full wheel hub with the bearings installed for replacement.

Moog makes one.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, I spun the wheel in the air forward and backward and there was no noise to indicate bad wheel bearings.

 

If the Mazda3 is like my old Mazda6 and the Ford Edge (Mazda6 based), the front wheel bearings are pressed into the knuckle, no unit bearing available. If it was done right 10k miles ago and quality bearings were used, I doubt the bearing is the issue. It can happen though. Our Edge had one of the new front wheel bearings go bad pretty quickly and I was able to get the part under warranty, even though I had installed it myself. You would also have equal play at 3-9 o'clock as at 6-12 o'clock if the bearing was bad.

Don't rule out lower control arm bushings. How does the car behave under heavy braking? Does it have a lot of judder in the steering wheel, wandering or general instability under braking? The toe changes that worn lower control arm bushings can allow, will make themselves obvious when braking, but are a bit harder to feel out when under the car.

Large pry bar can come in handy when diagnosing under the car. Use it to try and force the knuckle to move relative to ball joints, tie-rod ends, bushings at the frame mounting points, etc.

 

Don't forget to check the steering rack mounts at the firewall. Rubber could be deteriorated.

Left side only does indicate a possible inner or outer tie rod on the left side. When turning right, left wheel could be lagging behind and dragging or countering your right hand intentions. When turning left, it will push into the turn and increase the steering angle on the left wheel, making it turn in more aggressively.

Try your steering checks with the engine off, ignition in ACC and wheels on the ground. It could reveal more evidence. An assistant also makes diagnosis easier. If you see the right wheel responding instantly and the left is hesitating -> tie rods.

Mazda uses good parts, which is a big part of why they have good reliability. OEM could be more reasonable than you expect. What ever parts stores are selling as their Premium product should be decent as well.

When I replaced the outer tie rod ends in our old '02 Grand Am with Budget class tie rod ends, the main difference was that they had grease fittings and needed annual greasing. They lasted as long or longer than the GM OEM ones.

 

Thanks for all the tips. I'll report back after getting it checked out.

If replacement is needed - thinking stock parts or Moog currently.

If the stock ones lasted 60k+ miles.. they may be worth the added $.

The Moog ones do not have a grease fitting, unfortunately. Would need to use a needle and some silicone based glue for regreasing.

 

Finally got around to getting the car into a shop. They confirmed the outer tie rods were bad and replaced them with some Moog ones that I supplied. $27 from Amazon versus $60 for stock ones from a dealership.

I got the used parts back and there's no resistance at all.

Now to get an alignment..