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What's an F-18 and do you have a link? What did you use to guide the wire through the rubber grommet?
It's on that attachment you posted.

Image



BTW, you can get a disposable metal wire hanger, like the ones from dry cleaners, cut, straighten them out with pliers, and use it like electrical fishtape to route wires through the firewall grommet.
 

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
It's on that attachment you posted.
Duh! I can't believe I missed that.

Okay, here's something interesting that I found in another thread. Apparently, the large grommet you ran your wires through has a nipple. Several people said that if you cut the top of the nipple off it leaves behind a hole that you can run wires through. I haven't tried it myself, but here's a picture.
 

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I use the fuse box INSIDE the car, paired up with an auto cut of voltage regulator. I am using a nextbase 412 camera. I use a third party fuse break out cable which came with the regulator but the official nextbase cable also includes one (that biig chucker box attached to the cable).

iirc the fuse I used is labeled Audio it doesn't actually power the audio but more power the central dial next to the armrest.
 
What exactly is an "auto cut off voltage regulator"? And where the heck do I buy one? I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 months now, without success. I even plugged in a switch to the OBD-II port - so I could manually turn it off and on. Unfortunately, it's so hard to remember to do this each and every time. Eventually I forget and it kills the battery. My 2016 Mazda 3 was so much simpler.
 
What exactly is an "auto cut off voltage regulator"? And where the heck do I buy one? I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 months now, without success. I even plugged in a switch to the OBD-II port - so I could manually turn it off and on. Unfortunately, it's so hard to remember to do this each and every time. Eventually I forget and it kills the battery. My 2016 Mazda 3 was so much simpler.

Thats the exact cable I used and wired into the internal fuse box.
 
Just checked my USB, power still on after 30 minutes, 2019 Mazda 3. Looks like through the firewall & under the hood.
Tsaoandy12: I stand corrected re USB not powering down. Just checked again after 25 minutes & it was off. The first time I went to check after half an hour, the little red indicator light was still on in the 12V to USB adaptor cable. What I didn't realize, was, that when I went to check the first time, the key fob was in my jeans pocket & as I approached the car, it did the auto unlock which also powered up the electrics including the USB port. Will re connect both cameras tomorrow using the adaptor cables. Thanks for the tip.
 
Mirrortap or Vampire clip - Power for Radar/Dashcam = GREEN, Ground = BLACK. This is a 2019 Mazda 3 Sport
Great idea r2thei. I did something similar with another vehicle I own. What I'm looking for now is a youtube video or similar that explains how to open the unit to get at the wires without breaking anything. If you know of one please post! Much appreciated.
 

It would probably be helpful to have all the 'How To" guides in the same place...
 
A little late to the game, but I'm successfully using one of these to supply a switched 12v supply to my dash cam. I'll probably use it for a amp remote as well if I ever install one.

Edit: Picked up for under $20 on Amazon

PAC IGN-1 phantom ignition power module
 
Turns out the plug pictured is only available with an auto-dimming rear view mirror. Even though I have the Mazda3 2019 Premium it doesn't come with one. But I was able to tap into the power for the front seat airbag indicator and rear seat belt indicators on overhead console. Wires are small (something like 22 gauge) and not much room to tap but I was able to do it. Final results look great and only powers on when vehicle is running.

Attached document shows how to take apart the overhead console (I was only interested in Fig 1.6 and 1.7). Caution that it's not entirely correct - for my vehicle, for Fig 1.7 it slid toward back of car, not toward front.

12V to 5V converter fit comfortably in the overhead console as well.
 

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Turns out the plug pictured is only available with an auto-dimming rear view mirror. Even though I have the Mazda3 2019 Premium it doesn't come with one. But I was able to tap into the power for the front seat airbag indicator and rear seat belt indicators on overhead console. Wires are small (something like 22 gauge) and not much room to tap but I was able to do it. Final results look great and only powers on when vehicle is running.

Attached document shows how to take apart the overhead console (I was only interested in Fig 1.6 and 1.7). Caution that it's not entirely correct - for my vehicle, for Fig 1.7 it slid toward back of car, not toward front.

12V to 5V converter fit comfortably in the overhead console as well.
Absolutely amazing that you were able to figure this out, and only 4 months after I posted this entire process (along with the PDF for the installation of the autodimming mirror) in the How To section of this forum.


So the actual question is did you not know that information exists (Post #35 above links to it) or did you duplicate my process entirely from scratch (maybe great minds think identically alike?)
 
A little late to the game, but I'm successfully using one of these to supply a switched 12v supply to my dash cam. I'll probably use it for a amp remote as well if I ever install one.

Edit: Picked up for under $20 on Amazon

PAC IGN-1 phantom ignition power module
That looks like it might be the right catch for me. Would You mind explaining an idiot (me) how to install it?
 
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