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Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium

Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror.

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Mirrortap or Vampire clip or Solder as follows:

  • Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched
  • Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground
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MirrorTap:
I used the Mirrortap appropriate for my Whistler RD - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00X2WAIG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: The pins are very delicate and can break easily if inserted at the wrong angle. I used needlenose pliers to insert the tap pins into the connector. I tried with just my fingers but the pin is small and wiggles around too much, so much that I broke the first one. I simply soldered it instead and that worked great.

Here is the finished install
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Everything works as it should. RD powers on and off with the ignition.

I am happy with it. I use the OEM suction cups to the windshield, perfect.

Hope this helps.
 

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Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium

Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror.

  • Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched
  • Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground
View attachment 272941


View attachment 272943

Can you give us info about what plastic covers were removed, where the clips are, and how you removed them for those of us wanting to power dash cams/radar detectors off that harness?
 

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I used the plastic trim tool to gently pry the front (airbag/seatbag indicator panel) forward, then 'split' the black trim to either side of the mirror apart, it is pretty flimsy, easy to remove and put back together, and does not move the inner cameras behind the windshield. The pin connector is not loose enough to pull out sufficient to tap the wires directly, and the wires are very thin so I wouldn't attempt to tap them with inline taps.

I ordered the above wire connector tap/mini usb to use with my dash cam, and will install when it arrives.

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small FYI, this project is ongoing, there was a Reddit discussion by same mirror tap forum member here, and I was able to confirm that his car already has the autodimming mirror so he tapped that connector. My car, no bueno, no autodimming mirror.

But I found this little instruction guide, which shows where the autodimming mirror gets its power:


So it looks like the driver side door pillar is the place to tap...
 

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Final version:

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I used the trim tools to remove the plastic surrounding the mirror and also dropped the sunglass holder/sunroof button console to see where tapping might work without going to the side pillar (I was hesitant to open that up because there is an airbag there, and that could be an expensive incident if it somehow didn't like me opening up the side pillar).

Because my 'two prong' amazon connector had the wrong output, I went ahead and cut off the micro USB connector and soldered on some wiring from a mini usb wiring kit that came with the camera (they sell a mini USB version, but it would have been too short for my placement anyway without adding an extension).

The sunroof connector is merged in with wiring to the front camera from what I could see, so I decided not to mess with it. I tried tapping the microphone and that also didn't work, though it should have?

The wiring in the USB cord to the camera is so thin (small gauge, even hard to strip), I decided to try tapping the Passenger Airbag indicator light plug, which has the same green and black wires as shown in the mirror tap writeup (this connector is pictured in my original photos).

And the verdict is, no blown fuses, camera is now powered by the SimpleUSBcable micro prong kit soldered to some mini USB wiring that came with the camera, turns on when the car is on (when the dash lights up) and off when the car is turned off.

The connector for the airbag indicator light is easy to reach and there is room in the plastic housing surrounding the mirror to tuck in the protective circuitry that is wired into the SimpleUSBcable kit shown in my prior post.

I mounted the dash cam just under the mirror on the passenger side and that is all she wrote.

Of course, do this at your own risk, but I think it will be fine, no codes and everything works, as long as this does not generate weird amounts of heat in the SimpleUSBcable it should not interfere with anything safety related (the cameras up behind the mirror). Also, the connector I tapped is pretty low demand (I think it only powers the airbag and seatbelt indicators).
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
For the USB port, after 10-15 mins, it will cut the power. So it will shut off after you turn the ignition off for 10-15mins.
 

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For the USB port, after 10-15 mins, it will cut the power. So it will shut off after you turn the ignition off for 10-15mins.
good to know (I obviously wasn't timing it), however I am all set, and no wires needed to be run within the car to get my camera powered (other than the harness to the airbag light indicator plug).

I had a separate wiring kit that included an anti-battery drain module, but i used the SimpleUSBTap instead.
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
Any idea if they're on some sort of RAP timer? I'd prefer my dashcam stay constantly powered, but I also have a Mazda 3 sedan without the electronics yours has
 
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