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Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium

Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror.

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Mirrortap or Vampire clip or Solder as follows:

  • Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched
  • Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground
272941


MirrorTap:
I used the Mirrortap appropriate for my Whistler RD - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00X2WAIG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note: The pins are very delicate and can break easily if inserted at the wrong angle. I used needlenose pliers to insert the tap pins into the connector. I tried with just my fingers but the pin is small and wiggles around too much, so much that I broke the first one. I simply soldered it instead and that worked great.

Here is the finished install
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Everything works as it should. RD powers on and off with the ignition.

I am happy with it. I use the OEM suction cups to the windshield, perfect.

Hope this helps.
 

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Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium

Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror.

  • Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched
  • Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground
View attachment 272941


View attachment 272943

Can you give us info about what plastic covers were removed, where the clips are, and how you removed them for those of us wanting to power dash cams/radar detectors off that harness?
 

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I used the plastic trim tool to gently pry the front (airbag/seatbag indicator panel) forward, then 'split' the black trim to either side of the mirror apart, it is pretty flimsy, easy to remove and put back together, and does not move the inner cameras behind the windshield. The pin connector is not loose enough to pull out sufficient to tap the wires directly, and the wires are very thin so I wouldn't attempt to tap them with inline taps.

I ordered the above wire connector tap/mini usb to use with my dash cam, and will install when it arrives.

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small FYI, this project is ongoing, there was a Reddit discussion by same mirror tap forum member here, and I was able to confirm that his car already has the autodimming mirror so he tapped that connector. My car, no bueno, no autodimming mirror.

But I found this little instruction guide, which shows where the autodimming mirror gets its power:


So it looks like the driver side door pillar is the place to tap...
 

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Final version:

273387


I used the trim tools to remove the plastic surrounding the mirror and also dropped the sunglass holder/sunroof button console to see where tapping might work without going to the side pillar (I was hesitant to open that up because there is an airbag there, and that could be an expensive incident if it somehow didn't like me opening up the side pillar).

Because my 'two prong' amazon connector had the wrong output, I went ahead and cut off the micro USB connector and soldered on some wiring from a mini usb wiring kit that came with the camera (they sell a mini USB version, but it would have been too short for my placement anyway without adding an extension).

The sunroof connector is merged in with wiring to the front camera from what I could see, so I decided not to mess with it. I tried tapping the microphone and that also didn't work, though it should have?

The wiring in the USB cord to the camera is so thin (small gauge, even hard to strip), I decided to try tapping the Passenger Airbag indicator light plug, which has the same green and black wires as shown in the mirror tap writeup (this connector is pictured in my original photos).

And the verdict is, no blown fuses, camera is now powered by the SimpleUSBcable micro prong kit soldered to some mini USB wiring that came with the camera, turns on when the car is on (when the dash lights up) and off when the car is turned off.

The connector for the airbag indicator light is easy to reach and there is room in the plastic housing surrounding the mirror to tuck in the protective circuitry that is wired into the SimpleUSBcable kit shown in my prior post.

I mounted the dash cam just under the mirror on the passenger side and that is all she wrote.

Of course, do this at your own risk, but I think it will be fine, no codes and everything works, as long as this does not generate weird amounts of heat in the SimpleUSBcable it should not interfere with anything safety related (the cameras up behind the mirror). Also, the connector I tapped is pretty low demand (I think it only powers the airbag and seatbelt indicators).
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
For the USB port, after 10-15 mins, it will cut the power. So it will shut off after you turn the ignition off for 10-15mins.
 

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For the USB port, after 10-15 mins, it will cut the power. So it will shut off after you turn the ignition off for 10-15mins.
good to know (I obviously wasn't timing it), however I am all set, and no wires needed to be run within the car to get my camera powered (other than the harness to the airbag light indicator plug).

I had a separate wiring kit that included an anti-battery drain module, but i used the SimpleUSBTap instead.
 

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BTW: I also checked the USB ports in the console (and the cigarette lighter port) and they all have current when the engine is off, so no bueno for powering accessories that you want to power off with the ignition
Any idea if they're on some sort of RAP timer? I'd prefer my dashcam stay constantly powered, but I also have a Mazda 3 sedan without the electronics yours has
 

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Final version:

View attachment 273387

I used the trim tools to remove the plastic surrounding the mirror and also dropped the sunglass holder/sunroof button console to see where tapping might work without going to the side pillar (I was hesitant to open that up because there is an airbag there, and that could be an expensive incident if it somehow didn't like me opening up the side pillar).

Because my 'two prong' amazon connector had the wrong output, I went ahead and cut off the micro USB connector and soldered on some wiring from a mini usb wiring kit that came with the camera (they sell a mini USB version, but it would have been too short for my placement anyway without adding an extension).

The sunroof connector is merged in with wiring to the front camera from what I could see, so I decided not to mess with it. I tried tapping the microphone and that also didn't work, though it should have?

The wiring in the USB cord to the camera is so thin (small gauge, even hard to strip), I decided to try tapping the Passenger Airbag indicator light plug, which has the same green and black wires as shown in the mirror tap writeup (this connector is pictured in my original photos).

And the verdict is, no blown fuses, camera is now powered by the SimpleUSBcable micro prong kit soldered to some mini USB wiring that came with the camera, turns on when the car is on (when the dash lights up) and off when the car is turned off.

The connector for the airbag indicator light is easy to reach and there is room in the plastic housing surrounding the mirror to tuck in the protective circuitry that is wired into the SimpleUSBcable kit shown in my prior post.

I mounted the dash cam just under the mirror on the passenger side and that is all she wrote.

Of course, do this at your own risk, but I think it will be fine, no codes and everything works, as long as this does not generate weird amounts of heat in the SimpleUSBcable it should not interfere with anything safety related (the cameras up behind the mirror). Also, the connector I tapped is pretty low demand (I think it only powers the airbag and seatbelt indicators).
I'm going through what you went through and I'm concerned about the power draw on such small wires. It sounds like you tapped into the same plugs as I did. The dashcam doesn't draw much, but it's enough to concern me.
 

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I'm going through what you went through and I'm concerned about the power draw on such small wires. It sounds like you tapped into the same plugs as I did. The dashcam doesn't draw much, but it's enough to concern me.
I posted about this on the duplicate thread, but if you are that concerned use a relay, power from the battery to the relay and use the passenger bag light as the switchable source. Overkill, but a safe way to go about it.
 

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I found this on amazon. I know it is on the expensive side, but looking at one one of the first pictures, 10 pin connector for the mirror, would it work?
I think 'frameless mirror' is just another way of saying 'auto dimming' mirror, which implies there is already a power supply set up for the auto dimming mirror that you are tapping with that connector.

If you have the auto dimming mirror, look above early in this thread to see how to tap into that, and compare that solution with the adapter you are referencing.

If you have a standard manual mirror, my approach will work better, and buying that connector would in this case be a waste of money because you won't have anything to plug it into.
 

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Sorry to bring up a dead thread but during your testing did you happen to find any wires that were 12V constant?

Edit, I didn't read the attachment properly lol.

Edit 2 I DID A THING

For anyone looking to have parking mode without having to connect to the main fuse box there is a way, thanks to the help of instructions posted by another forum member who I'll credit when i come across his post again. (see attached file).
NOTE: YOU DON'T NEED THE HOMELINK MIRROR FOR THIS METHOD TO WORK.
THESE STEPS SHOULD WORK FOR ALL 2 AND 3 WIRE DASH CAM HARDWIRING KITS.
Power Magic Pro installs will need wires extended or creativity in placing the box.

Carefully remove A pillar trim as outlined on page 3
Locate the 24pin connector as outlined on page 6. Use a flathead screwdriver to press the release tabs on the connector and the cable management clips and pull the 24pin (and 8pin) connectors towards you.

Reference pages 6 and 7 for the following: (I recommend miliary tapping unit you know your dashcam works properly. Then solder or vampire tap as you please.
Locate pin [12,1] which is the black ground wire. Strip a small section of the cable and tap with your dash kit's ground wire
Locate the darker green wire which is your +12V ignition, this one may be a few pins so just find the darker green wire that's near the wire in fig 4-5. Tap with your acc wire
Locate the red wire which is your +12V constant [1,1] and tap that with your battery wire

Test your dashcam to ensure it functions and enable/test parking mode as well as sometimes the wires on the hardwire kits are backwards

Now route your cables, store excess wire by taping or zap strapping to the harness cable. Use OEM cable management to keep your cables down and away from the airbag. Spread them out evenly or otherwise the A-pillar won't close properly.
The plastic mirror cover actually has some good cable channels so you can actually feed wires through that and up to the headliner. Just pop out the passenger seat belt/airbag module slightly and feed the cables through that.

Sorry that I didn't take pictures as the instalL took longer than I'd expected and it was getting chilly. I may update the post with finished pics later
 

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I think 'frameless mirror' is just another way of saying 'auto dimming' mirror, which implies there is already a power supply set up for the auto dimming mirror that you are tapping with that connector.

If you have the auto dimming mirror, look above early in this thread to see how to tap into that, and compare that solution with the adapter you are referencing.

If you have a standard manual mirror, my approach will work better, and buying that connector would in this case be a waste of money because you won't have anything to plug it into.
When using this approach, does your camera retain date and time information? Or does it reset every time you turn off the car?
 

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Was referring to the mirror tap variant.
do you have an autodimming mirror installed ?

Start there. If yes, you can use the mirror tap method. Does it maintain voltage with the ignition turned off? I have no idea, as I haven't tested it, I don't have an autodimming mirror nor the wiring to the door pillar for it. My hunch is there is not a constant supply of voltage to the autodimming mirror when the ignition is off, since that is not necessary and one might think Mazda engineers don't generally send constant power to accessories that are not needed while the car is shut down to avoid issues like dead batteries from phantom current draws (aka a mechanics nightmare to trace this type of issue).

The approach I did (tapping airbag light), yes it works, my camera has a battery in it (that is recharging while driving, or the dash cam would be long dead by now), and I haven't had to reset the date/time on my dash cam. This source does not have constant voltage when the ignition is off would be my guess (though again, I haven't seen the need to test it), since no driver needs the passenger airbag indicator light lit up when the ignition is shut off. Since install I haven't had any issue with the battery draining while my dash cam is wired as it is, the dash cam powers on and off automatically when I start/turn off ignition, and all is well for my install.

If you want constant voltage (for whatever reason, sentry mode or whatever) tap the dome light, that always has power going to it. The way I know this is I can go to my car with no key and tap those lights on and off. I can't tell you which wire to tap or if it will blow up the ECM because I stopped my dash cam wire project after successfully tapping the passenger airbag light.
 

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Thank you OP, this was extremely useful!

I managed to follow the instructions to get to the plug.

However, any pointers on how to "unpin" the connector? I want to insert (tap) "soft" wires into the green and black holes without using inline taps.

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
 
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