2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

How to paint stock wheels (with the tires mounted)

65K views 58 replies 31 participants last post by  j_anthony  
#1 · (Edited)
A lot of you have seen my painted wheels and I have been asked to create a write-up on several occassions, so here it is. This guide will show/tell how to paint stock wheels with spray paint without unmounting the tires.

Tools and materials (not all are pictured)
Image

  • Primer (1 can per wheel)
  • Base color spray paint (I use a little over 1 can per wheel)
  • Clear coat (1 can per 2 wheels)
  • Trigger adapter for spray cans
  • Assorted sandpaper (320/400, 800, 1000, 2000)
  • Index cards (I use the $1 pack from Wal-Mart)
  • Drop cloth
  • Sponge
  • Water source/bucket/whatever
  • Blue painter's tape
  • Towels
  • Hydrolic jack (scissor jack works, but not recommended)
  • Jack stands
  • Resirator (or at least a dust mask)
  • Tire iron
  • Torque wrench w/ 21mm socket
  • Wheel chaulks

Step 1: Removing the wheels
Slightly loosen the lug nuts on the first wheel to be removed. Place wheel chaulks as needed. Jack up the first corner using solid points under the car. I use subframe mounting points in the front and strong, overlapping metal areas in the back. Place jack stands under the jack point (listed in the owner's manual). Repeat on the other side of that end of the car so that the entire front or back is on jack stands.

Image

*My center cap is already painted in this picture because it was reused from the previous wheel

Step 2: Remove the center cap
The center cap snaps into the center of the wheel. To remove it, press on the center from the back.
Image

Image


Step 3: Remove the "Flying M" from the center cap
To avoid masking the Flying M, you can remove it before painting the center cap. It is held in place with 4 plastic tabs. You may have to shave the clips on the tabs to release them. Once the center cap is disassembled, set it aside.
Image


Step 4: Scuff the stock finish
Using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper, wet sand the stock finish until there are no glossy areas. Don't worry if you sand some areas a little more than others, but try to sand as evenly as possible. Don't forget the center caps. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly.
Image


Step 5: Mask the wheel and primer
Lay out the drop cloth. Prop up one side of the wheel on a box or something solid. Mask the wheel using the index cards. Place them between the wheel and tire as pictured. Remove the valve stem cap and either mask the threads or the TPMS retainer and threads. Also mask the mounting pad on the back of the wheel and inside edge of the wheel center. This will make sure the wheel mounts flat and the centercap fits properly after painting.
Image

Image


Put on your respirator. Attach the trigger adapter to the primer can, shake the can thoroughly, and spray primer. You will want to spray 8-10 from the surface, moving fast enough that paint doesn't pool or run. Remember to paint both sides of the wheel.

Step 6: Sand the primer and re-coat (x2)
After the primer is dry, remove the index cards and wet sand with 800. Again, don't worry if you burn though some areas in the first coat of primer when sanding. Rinse and dry the wheel thoroughly. There is no need to remove the painter's tape, but you will need to remask if it comes loose. Remask with the index cards and spray another coat of primer. Remove the index cards once dry. Sand, wash, and dry again. You shouldn't sand through the second coat of primer in any areas. I usually spray 2 coats of primer to help hide any small imperfections in the surface of the wheel.
Image

Image

Image


Step 7: Mask the wheel and spray the base color
At this point, you're ready for color. You should be pretty comfortable with painting. If not you want want to practice on something. Good paint isn't cheap and I wasted a couple of cans ($8 each) back when I was first starting. I suggest that you pull all the painter's tape and re-mask. Mask with index cards and paint both sides.
Image


Step 8: Sand the base color and re-coat
You should be a pro at sanding by now. Depending on how rough your first coat is, wet sand with 800 or 1000. It's okay if the paint gets thin in areas, but you shouldn't sand through to primer. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat this as necessary until the paint if opaque and smooth.

Step 9: Spray clear, sand, and re-coat
Using the established process, spray clear coat, sand, and repeat. I generally spray 3 coats. For the first 2 coats, I sand with 1000. For the final, I sand with 1000, followed by 2000. Once you're satisfied, remove all masking and leave to dry overnight (minimum).
Image

Image


Step 10: Replace the wheel(s)
Re-attach the Flying M's to the center caps, then place them back into the wheels. The fitment will be a little snug. Then it's basically the reverse of Step 1. Enjoy your new wheels!
Image


Picture from when I first painted my wheels:
Image
 
#2 ·
Great write up, I would have never thought of the index cars to mask the tire.
 
#10 ·
I painted my calipers. Do NOT use the Duplicolor kit! It is terrible! Mine started chipping almost immediately. I scraped the rest off with a pocketknife on that corner. I recommend G2 (I have a kit on the way - black this time).

Awesome write up and outstading results!
How has the paint held up on the other 3 wheels?

uh oh...I smell another project!
Awesome job again, Thanks!
Thanks!

The paint has held up very well. We had a horrible winter with lots of salt and sand on the road. I have a couple of chips in the paint, but nothing terrible. I mostly just need to wax them. With normal use, be prepared to re-apply clear coat every year or so, I'd say. Not difficult or expensive, really.
 
#17 ·
How long does each wheel take? How long did you allow each coat to dry before sanding and applying a new coat? How long should I expect to have my wheels removed from my car if I wanted to do this (my car is my daily driver and I do not have a spare car). Can it be done in 1 Saturday/weekend?

Thanks, great write up! Sorry for all the questions.
 
#18 ·
For me, each wheel takes approximately 7-8 hours. Due to my small garage, I can only work on 1 wheel at a time. I think I could complete 2 wheels in the same period of time if my work area were bigger. You would sand one while the other was drying. That sort of thing. If you have a small garage like me or can't set aside an entire weekend, complete the front wheels one weekend and the back wheels the following weekend. Your car will just look a little funny for a week.

Paint drying time varies from brand to brand. It will also vary slightly depending on heat and humidity. The Duplicolor paint I use is safe to sand in about 30-45 minutes in 70+ degree weather. The primer is ready in about 15-20 minutes.

Good questions!
 
#22 ·
I actually tried that on these rims and it was a disaster. Basically, it's great if the rims are a smooth cast, but ours aren't. It's actually pretty rough underneath the powdercoating. Also, it doesn't come off very easily. I was using strong aircraft-grade paint stripper too (strong enough it burns the skin within 5-10 seconds). After I was done, I was left with some rough wheels that required a lot of primer and sanding to even be ready for paint. You all are welcome to try it, but don't say I didn't warn you. Lol.
 
#25 ·
Nice write up derrick! Im going to try this on my isport but the rim is plastic and i can just rip it off my wheel. You think the paint will stick to the plastic?
 
#27 ·
i was really dissappointed that it wasnt even alloy. I started feeling my rims after you posted this thread, and i ended ripping it off,haha I'm surprised the rims dont fail out when i drive
 
#30 ·
Good questions. I definately sand the last coat of base, usually with 1000. I typically sand between clear coats with 1000, then 2000. The last coat of clear is a light one and I don't sand. This is done so I don't have to use rubbing compound and buff them. It's good enough for me, but there is always that extra step you can take to make things better.

Umm...you just linked back to this thread. I'm sure it's a mistake, but I Lol'd.
 
#29 ·
#33 · (Edited)
Step 8: Sand the base color and re-coat
You should be a pro at sanding by now. Depending on how rough your first coat is, wet sand with 800 or 1000. It's okay if the paint gets thin in areas, but you shouldn't sand through to primer. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Repeat this as necessary until the paint if opaque and smooth.

Step 9: Spray clear, sand, and re-coat
Using the established process, spray clear coat, sand, and repeat. I generally spray 3 coats. For the first 2 coats, I sand with 1000. For the final, I sand with 1000, followed by 2000. Once you're satisfied, remove all masking and leave to dry overnight (minimum).


it did answer your question.... that's why i linked you back to the write up
 
#35 ·
haha well unless I'm reading it wrong it wasn't clear in the original post. In the original instructions he says he sands his final coat. But in his reply to me he says he doesn't sand the final coat.

Basically to rehash. Is the last coat of color sanded or just painted? And, is the last coat of clear coat sanded or not?
 
#36 ·
Good questions. I definately sand the last coat of base, usually with 1000. I typically sand between clear coats with 1000, then 2000. The last coat of clear is a light one and I don't sand. This is done so I don't have to use rubbing compound and buff them. It's good enough for me, but there is always that extra step you can take to make things better.
He answered you on the last page... I'm just sayin... :stuart:
 
  • Like
Reactions: JayEdge25
#38 ·
so for the center caps I have to do the same process of painting a wheel?
 
#41 · (Edited)
If you wanted to change the color, would you have to sand of the existing paint and then re primer and etc? I painted mine black with rustoleum paint and everything. And i went looking around hardware stores and found a blue rustoleum paint that nearly matches the clestial blue perfectly. And im trying to come up with a creative way to two tone them now :punk: And it seems you know what your doing alot more then me lol so the help would be great.:thumbup 1: