If you notice that regen has started (high consumption, exhaust noise, i-Stop engine indicator), just downshift a gear or two. When engine revs over 3000, regen is done in less than 5 minutes.
Jukkeli
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Ok, I can only talk about the 6 but never had a water problem so far in 9 years, or 14 years in a previous diesel which was the Rover 45 which for some things and times I wish I hadn't changed to Mazda.
The new CX 60's straight 6 3.5 lt are rich man's toys, in which you are paying £500 for 5 years as luxury tax plus road fund licence, instead of a £20/ year to tax my 2.2d.
The new CX 60's straight 6 3.5 lt are rich man's toys, in which you are paying £500 for 5 years as luxury tax plus road fund licence, instead of a £20/ year to tax my 2.2d.
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hello, you should also check the injectors.
Checking the injectors is not something you can do yourself and doubt if a Mazda dealer can, but a Bosch Fuel Injection agency can.
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I removed and cleaned this sensor from the inlet manifold of the 1.5D engine. It’s directly beneath the silver horizontal pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold. It was filthy and covered in mixture of oil and soot. Is this the upstream Lambda/O2 sensor? What issues could be caused by it being so dirty?
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Mart, the 2.2d is known for heavy carbon in the inlet manifold due to a lot of town driving which causes the EGR to be open more, so the 1.5d I don't suppose is any different.
Following VWgate in 2018 Mazda increased the amount of time the EGR was open to lower combustion temperatures which in turn reduced NOx.
Diesels produce less CO2 than petrol but produce NOx which they claim is bad for the lungs.
What battery powered cars are bad for we have yet to see ( but not in my lifetime).
Following VWgate in 2018 Mazda increased the amount of time the EGR was open to lower combustion temperatures which in turn reduced NOx.
Diesels produce less CO2 than petrol but produce NOx which they claim is bad for the lungs.
What battery powered cars are bad for we have yet to see ( but not in my lifetime).
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That's the 'Intake air temperature (IAT) Sensor No. 2'
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Thanks for clearing that up. I had my doubts that it was a Lambda/O2 sensor as it had no visible holes on it. Is there an upstream O2 sensor on this engine and if so, do you know where it is located?
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From what extracts of the service manual I have for this engine I can find reference to four different exhaust temperature sensors but not one specifically labelled O2/lambda; though there is an air/fuel ratio sensor mounted at the exit of the DOC/cat/DPF assembly which might be the same thing? For the petrols they're referred to as heated oxygen sensors (HO2S)
This was interesting reading Why is there no O2 sensor in a diesel engine?
I had problems with this sensor (P0154 A/F), as the value was out of range. Maybe because of the soot, oil or all the soap/acid I purred onto DPF from the upper presure ingress tube.
I bought the original one from Denso from Ebay, about 130 Euro, replace it and all worked. (DENSO DOX-0589)
If I remember well, the PCM ECU module measures how fast the sensor in Ohm reacts to other values (temp, load...) - at 800 rpm it should be 2.4 Ohm
The Skyactiv-D 2.2 engine has only one O2 sensor that acts as the Lambda sensor, but the converging loop mechanism is similar.
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After reading all this written I came to the conclusion that no one has managed to solve the problem.
My problem is similar.
I am the owner of a Mazda 3 1.5 diesel for 2 and a half months, the car is driven mainly on the highway every day, 2x 20 km or 2x 28 km and during this time it only turned on the error P243C once, while on longer trips over 150 km (driven twice ) always turns on the same error p 43C. During that time, the car is running quite normally, except for the last time, when it was driving at a constant speed of 145 km/h, it simply did not want to accelerate any more. This lasted for 5-10 seconds and the car behaved quite normally after that.
The fuel consumption is high considering the data from the on-board computer and also when compared to the Mercedes GLA 200 D with 7 DTC (DSG) gearbox. Let me emphasize that the transmission ratios in the last gear are the same, ie 130 km/h is at 2250 rpm. Mercedes is a taller, larger car with more weight and bigger tires and a 50% bigger engine, and it would be logical that it consumes more fuel compared to the lighter and lower Mazda.
During all this time, the oil level in the engine has not changed. It's the same all the time and about 4000 km have been driven.
Most likely on Monday I will physically remove the DPF and close the EGR.
If someone has a better solution, please write. Thank you all.
My problem is similar.
I am the owner of a Mazda 3 1.5 diesel for 2 and a half months, the car is driven mainly on the highway every day, 2x 20 km or 2x 28 km and during this time it only turned on the error P243C once, while on longer trips over 150 km (driven twice ) always turns on the same error p 43C. During that time, the car is running quite normally, except for the last time, when it was driving at a constant speed of 145 km/h, it simply did not want to accelerate any more. This lasted for 5-10 seconds and the car behaved quite normally after that.
The fuel consumption is high considering the data from the on-board computer and also when compared to the Mercedes GLA 200 D with 7 DTC (DSG) gearbox. Let me emphasize that the transmission ratios in the last gear are the same, ie 130 km/h is at 2250 rpm. Mercedes is a taller, larger car with more weight and bigger tires and a 50% bigger engine, and it would be logical that it consumes more fuel compared to the lighter and lower Mazda.
During all this time, the oil level in the engine has not changed. It's the same all the time and about 4000 km have been driven.
Most likely on Monday I will physically remove the DPF and close the EGR.
If someone has a better solution, please write. Thank you all.
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problem without a solution
www.simplydiag.net
Exhaust Pressure sensor
Hi all looking for some guidance please : 2014 Mazda CX-5 Skyactiv 2.2 Diesel : Reg YG63 CYA : Vin KMZEF91600161826 : Scan Tool Launch x413 Pro Mini : fault code P243C:00-2F, Particulate Filter regeneration Frequency Bank 2 : Drives ok no limp mode. Live Data pid of concern is exhaust pressure...
www.simplydiag.net
No.11 is a new one, following the failure of many engines to this Code, namely fuel injector nozzles subject to Cavitation Erosion, if not changed could result in nozzle tips falling off dues to the holes in the nozzle joining up.
Mazda is very reluctant to pay anything towards this considering a its a manufacturing defect of Denso's the injector manufacturers, who were partly owned by Toyota and other Japanese car manufacturers.
Mazda is very reluctant to pay anything towards this considering a its a manufacturing defect of Denso's the injector manufacturers, who were partly owned by Toyota and other Japanese car manufacturers.
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The best solution is new injector....with dpf off egr off if you want (is better) .. If you can t pay for new injector... Check the injectors, the results is important, put new copper washer seal heating them or better new aluminum without heating, dpf off egr off.... Make sure the developer has done the program successfully before, it's not that simple... Then you will live with best car ever...
Ivan, you have it, it opened for me off your post.
What you are looking at is not a tutorial, but the screen that Mazda Mechanics use to troubleshoot any problem as long as a code comes up. If there is no code they claim thereis nothing wrong with the car, despite itvsounding like a bag of hammers, slow accelleration, or lumpy accelleration or poor fuel consumption due to excessive DPF Regens, which is what this one is about. The reason for excessive regens is poor atomisation of the fuel due to badly worn fuel injector nozzle holes.
I understand from my SM, an extra page came out as listed here suggesting the injectors are tested for spray patterns,flow and pressure. This would have to be done by a fuel injection specialist as Mazda Dealers do not have the specialised equipment nor do they have the training, in fact Mazda Mechanics as with most dealer mechanics are 'new part fitters', they cannot repair anything due to the lack of skills and technical training. Without a laptop to plug in they would be lost. They cannot interpret data, ie fuel consumption, Regen frequency or lube oil contamination pattern, which is all you need to diagnose faulty injectors, not a laptop.
When it comes to Hybrids or EV's they have to,relay everything to the country Mazda HQ and they pass it up the line to Japan. Their training and know how is non existant and SM's is on par.
They are having a lot of electrical problems with both those types of cars or should I say trucks with carpets.
What you are looking at is not a tutorial, but the screen that Mazda Mechanics use to troubleshoot any problem as long as a code comes up. If there is no code they claim thereis nothing wrong with the car, despite itvsounding like a bag of hammers, slow accelleration, or lumpy accelleration or poor fuel consumption due to excessive DPF Regens, which is what this one is about. The reason for excessive regens is poor atomisation of the fuel due to badly worn fuel injector nozzle holes.
I understand from my SM, an extra page came out as listed here suggesting the injectors are tested for spray patterns,flow and pressure. This would have to be done by a fuel injection specialist as Mazda Dealers do not have the specialised equipment nor do they have the training, in fact Mazda Mechanics as with most dealer mechanics are 'new part fitters', they cannot repair anything due to the lack of skills and technical training. Without a laptop to plug in they would be lost. They cannot interpret data, ie fuel consumption, Regen frequency or lube oil contamination pattern, which is all you need to diagnose faulty injectors, not a laptop.
When it comes to Hybrids or EV's they have to,relay everything to the country Mazda HQ and they pass it up the line to Japan. Their training and know how is non existant and SM's is on par.
They are having a lot of electrical problems with both those types of cars or should I say trucks with carpets.
Jamazda, you have some very impressive fuel consumption figures there. Like I try to tell people , log fuel consumption each time you fill up it gives a good picture of what is happening, unfortunately Mazda and their dealers cannot or will not interpret the data should it start to go south and rely on a code, which we know is to late.
Yes like you I record both real mpg and dash mpg and found a % descrepency, but at least it does give a reasonably indication whilst driving and before you fill up on the average mpg.
The other data I take at fill up using Forscan is Oil dilution and total regens, this goes on a spreadsheet and it calculates regen mileage frequency between fill ups ( I don't drive with less than a 1/4 tank of fuel). These two figures are on a graph also against total mileage, wereas mpg/ pence per miles is against date, but equates to total mileage.
From when I first owned a car at 18 ( A35 van) until now at 72 I have always recorded my mpg. I also have another spreadsheet on Excel which records running costs for the car, not just fuel but all costs and by dividing certain costs like maintenance, total cost, fuel etc by mileage that year you know your running cost per mile. All it takes is a few clicks and a new column each year copying any formula across.
The HMRC 44p/ mile is pretty darn accurate.
I have graphs and spreadsheets for my last car I had for 14 years. Another interesting set of figures is at the end of each year caculate Max, Min, Median and Average fuel consumption, then you set up another graph using these figures, year on year.
With my previous car it showed that fuel consumption improved year on year, more in the first 3 years as the car bedded in, but incrementaly afterwards, but the Mazda decreased on all figures( max, min, median and average) after year 1 due to the fact that the fuel injectors were starting to fail even then. It wasn't until year 7 that it flagged up a code that the dealer couldn't initially fathom,but after changing the DPF dp sensor 3 times he came to the conclusion that it must be something else. Mazda UK knew all along but were keeping sctumn.
I would be careful on additives to the fuel as this could exasperate the Cavitation Erosion that the injectors suffer from, I would also query using the Super diesel rather than the standard for the same reason.
Papajim, Never use a sealing washer/gasket/ split pin/ nyloc nut once removed, always use new, they are consumables.
Furthermore do not blank the EGR or remove the DPF.
If you cannot afford to run the car correctly then buy something you can. If one injector needs changing, then they all do as they are all worn to the same extent.
😟 They live and breathe among us.😟
Nothing wrong with the DPF, its doing its job. You need new injectors, its a known fault. It is not a problem without a solution, but a problem with a solution.problem without a solution
Exhaust Pressure sensor
Hi all looking for some guidance please : 2014 Mazda CX-5 Skyactiv 2.2 Diesel : Reg YG63 CYA : Vin KMZEF91600161826 : Scan Tool Launch x413 Pro Mini : fault code P243C:00-2F, Particulate Filter regeneration Frequency Bank 2 : Drives ok no limp mode. Live Data pid of concern is exhaust pressure...
That code means it has carried out too many regens in a certain mileage and flags it up, but dealers didn't know the answer a few years ago and if they don't keep up with their technical reading from the country Mazda HQ they may not know the answer now.
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I won't argue with you.... If the injectors are working fine, the catalytic converter is doing the job correctly... Unfortunately it is a last resort.... Also why do they put dpf on tractors?.. 🤔🤔....there are much worse like... not having a mobile phone because of 5G for radiation....not watching TV because of bad programs... Not drinking soft drinks... And many many more. .. Of course it's a personal choice.... The best thing would be to compel the companies to correct the factory errors without burdening the owners with such large sums as buying injectors, changing or cleaning dpf... Why should I pay extra money without my own my mistake?..
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