If you notice that regen has started (high consumption, exhaust noise, i-Stop engine indicator), just downshift a gear or two. When engine revs over 3000, regen is done in less than 5 minutes.
Jukkeli
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Yes I suppose a tractor usage is worse than a car, more idling, short journeys, but do tractors have the same problems as we do? Do other modern diesel cars have the same problems? Perhaps not because somebody else makes the injectors I did read that Vauxhauls in Europe use the same injector or at least Denso injectors if not the same part number.
Unfortunately its the way of the world the large conglomerates screw the little people for pure profit and greed.
You just have to hope that your Service Manager at your Mazda dealership will fight your case and secure a better deal, when after all its a latent manufacturing defect that only comes out after the warranty period has finished.
Mazda Eur tried to say it was because my car wasn't serviced by my dealer every time.
Considering a service is only a fluid and filter change which has no bearing on the problem and that for the mileage it had more oil changes than required. Then they claim it was low mileage, as I am retired the car stays in my garage most days and most of the mileage pre Covid was trips over an hour on motorways.
No, they were pulling at straws to wriggle out of paying a contribution towards the cost and admitting a problem, in the end I paid 2/3 full retail cost, still a large sum for for the younger generation living on credit.
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They don't need dpf's on tractors when their operation is out of town..Technical issues will always be there..Perhaps a technical safety would be better when we know there is a problem with the injectors in general...I never believed that the denso made defective injectors... It's just that the many regenerations create a problem at the tip of the injector due to high temperature.. I think that with the new injectors the problem will come back after several kilometers because the tip of the injector will break again... Unless denso found the problem and reinforced the material on the tip of the injector. A friend of mine put new injectors, dpf off and it hasn't turned on a light again for 2 years... At the check the exhaust gas was 0.19.. do you believe it's good?
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Injectors went on mine as well. Didn’t have any codes, but it’s odd your oil level isn’t going up. Mine was regenerating every 40/60 miles which went up to around 200 after the change, no codes. Because it was regenerating so much I was often stopping it mid regen and oil levels went up. I didn’t go to main dealer and got it done for about 1.9k.
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You mean you did a new program in the car computer with dpf OFF etc.... If so... and it gives you regenerations by raising the oil level... The programmer has made a mistake.... I have also heard from others that the programmers didn't make it.... He wants you to find the right expert to make your car normal.... Also there is a possibility that the programmer will manage not to do regenerations and the oil level will go up... Probably to blame the injector that is corrupted on the edge, and doesn't spray properly... I personally haven't heard of this as a script... If the developer does it right... The injectors even modified on the edge from the regens... won't upload the oil level...
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No programming done to my car yet…I’m sorting the myriad of issues out first. Injectors and walnut blast done and next up is the shot motor mounts. The oil level rising was definitely due to stopping mid regen, when you turn off the vehicle mid regen the excess fuel injected for the DPF gets into the sump due to gravity.
You can see on the maintenance section on the infotainment that your oil life drops by 10% each time you turn it off while regenerating.
Leaky seals may well have contributed though.
Christian,
You would be surprised how many drivers never check their oil, or if they do, they check it hot, holding the dipstick so it runs up the dipstick.
Despite what Mazda says, its been common practice since cars were invented to check the oil when cold as when you change your oil its cold so any change in the level from that point is a hint that something is going wrong.
Some of the logic that Mazda uses is against common practice due to the fact they are doing a cover up.
You often see the question asked, "What oil should I use?"
Those of you beyond a certain age will remember in the owners manual (which was usally thinner, but contained more usefull information in it than present tomes) the list of different manufacturers oils and greases and the specific one for the car in each make of oil. Not this dictatorial Mazda Oil, which iscnot madecby Mazda, but by a company in each major geographical area. In Europe its made by the Frogs, Total/Elf. In the US I believe they recommend Castrol.
Yet when I questioned Mazda EUR on using Castrol here, they directed me to Mazda Oil because they get their bounce on that. My dealer realised Mazda/Elf oil was too expensive and uses Castrol.
If you want to use a specific brand, go onto the oil manufactures website and navigate to the are you type in your reg, or make/model/ year/engine and it will give you their specific oil that is suitable for your car.
Though I would tend to stay clear of shop brands and obscure oil makes, like Halfrauds/ Commer/ Sears etc.
You would be surprised how many drivers never check their oil, or if they do, they check it hot, holding the dipstick so it runs up the dipstick.
Despite what Mazda says, its been common practice since cars were invented to check the oil when cold as when you change your oil its cold so any change in the level from that point is a hint that something is going wrong.
Some of the logic that Mazda uses is against common practice due to the fact they are doing a cover up.
You often see the question asked, "What oil should I use?"
Those of you beyond a certain age will remember in the owners manual (which was usally thinner, but contained more usefull information in it than present tomes) the list of different manufacturers oils and greases and the specific one for the car in each make of oil. Not this dictatorial Mazda Oil, which iscnot madecby Mazda, but by a company in each major geographical area. In Europe its made by the Frogs, Total/Elf. In the US I believe they recommend Castrol.
Yet when I questioned Mazda EUR on using Castrol here, they directed me to Mazda Oil because they get their bounce on that. My dealer realised Mazda/Elf oil was too expensive and uses Castrol.
If you want to use a specific brand, go onto the oil manufactures website and navigate to the are you type in your reg, or make/model/ year/engine and it will give you their specific oil that is suitable for your car.
Though I would tend to stay clear of shop brands and obscure oil makes, like Halfrauds/ Commer/ Sears etc.
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Τe best oil is motorex experience 0w 30...
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In Greece for Mazda supra 0w 30... I pay 22€ 1 lit in official Mazda ... For Switzerland motorex oil... They are not adulterated and their quality is the best.... I am thinking of 4 liters of 0w 30 and 1 liter of 5w 30 mixed..
If Mazda oil (really Elf) is cheaper than Castrol and is the correct specification ie C2/C3 and correct viscosity then use it. This not the case in Britain. I think Castrol is specifiedin USA. The best thing to do is to go onto an oil manufacturers website, Car oil section, type in your registration and that manufacture will recommend the oils (may be more than one) that is suitable for your car. I would tend not to mix manufacturers unless you are desperate and cannot find the same oil that you have in the sump if away for instance, but that shouldn't happen if you are checking the oil weekly but in heavy dring conditions like a holiday, daily. It doesn't take long to check your oil each morning before you start the car. Its better to be safe that sorry. A litre of oil is cheaper than a new engine as is a few minutes to check the car over including tyre pressures. A hard tyre runs cooler and faster.
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After browsing the forums for many hours, I notice that here is the most knowledge about the soul of Mazda's DPF.
The DPF and its regeneration is the only thing I don't like in my car. Because very often the situation is: I have driven 25-200 km to my home and when there is 1 km left, there is a final acceleration from 0-80 km/h. And then the regeneration starts and I have to drive another 20km even though I could drive straight home.
So the question would be, is there any way to tell the car that NOW would be a good time to do the regeneration while driving?
Since I know that the interval is about 280-310km, depending on the driving, I could tell the car to start regeneration when there is still some distance left and the engine is warm enough, but not during the last acceleration!
Otherwise, I have liked the car and the 2,2 diesel engine very much!
Unless you stop and do a forced regeneration, which you need Forscan software, and OBD adaptor and a bit of wire and know what you are doing to do.
I would agree they are nice cars but for a few engine problems, coking up and faulty injectors. Far better than any of Mazdas replacements.
Would that be the Finnish flag you are flying or Greek?
I would agree they are nice cars but for a few engine problems, coking up and faulty injectors. Far better than any of Mazdas replacements.
Would that be the Finnish flag you are flying or Greek?
After you do a forced reg, that last 1+ hour, you need to change your oil as will be very diluted
Zdarova, no you shouldn't need to change it. It depends how diluted it is in the first place, a forced regen is no different to a regen the ecu does in the normal way when you are running.
A rough guide on oil dilution is the level of the oil cold.
Fresh oil should be between the min mark and the full mark on the dipstick and when changing oil and filter, 5.1 litres, no more, unlike a petrol when it would be up to the full mark one would assume, but I stand to be corrected on M6 petrols.
The X is absolute maximum level and the oil and filter should be changed pronto, that week. If youbare checking oil levels cold weekly you may or may not see the level rise week to week depending on the type of driving, summer /winter, any fuel injector problems.
Between the 5.1 litre mark and X is about a litre of diesel. The C3 grade of oil is so formulated to withstand this level of contamination. You can feel it in the oil.
When I was doing a lot of long distance driving particularly in the summer I found the oil contamination figure from Forscan would decrease after a hot run and reduced to zero from single figures or teens.
If you haven't got Forscan Lite software then its a good investment for a Ford or Mazda driver.
It gives you all the readings that the dealer can take, such as dilution, DP of DPF , number of total number of regens and miles since last regen and a lot more than I assume the generic code reading software does.
The term 'Forced' means you have initiated the regen, not the ecu. It will be no different. The main thing is the engine nice and hot, not just left on tick over until the blue light goes off, which only means the coolant is up to temperature not the oil and the rest of the engine. Give it an Italian tune up, you will understand being Italian, ie drive like the Mafioso is after you.
Arrivederci
A rough guide on oil dilution is the level of the oil cold.
Fresh oil should be between the min mark and the full mark on the dipstick and when changing oil and filter, 5.1 litres, no more, unlike a petrol when it would be up to the full mark one would assume, but I stand to be corrected on M6 petrols.
The X is absolute maximum level and the oil and filter should be changed pronto, that week. If youbare checking oil levels cold weekly you may or may not see the level rise week to week depending on the type of driving, summer /winter, any fuel injector problems.
Between the 5.1 litre mark and X is about a litre of diesel. The C3 grade of oil is so formulated to withstand this level of contamination. You can feel it in the oil.
When I was doing a lot of long distance driving particularly in the summer I found the oil contamination figure from Forscan would decrease after a hot run and reduced to zero from single figures or teens.
If you haven't got Forscan Lite software then its a good investment for a Ford or Mazda driver.
It gives you all the readings that the dealer can take, such as dilution, DP of DPF , number of total number of regens and miles since last regen and a lot more than I assume the generic code reading software does.
The term 'Forced' means you have initiated the regen, not the ecu. It will be no different. The main thing is the engine nice and hot, not just left on tick over until the blue light goes off, which only means the coolant is up to temperature not the oil and the rest of the engine. Give it an Italian tune up, you will understand being Italian, ie drive like the Mafioso is after you.
Arrivederci
Hi Sternchallis, I thought the same as you 3 years ago, but after learning more about this SkyActiv-D engine, I found (don't have the documentation link now) that when you perform a Manual Regeneration (forced), that takes around 1 hour, by procedure you have to change the oil.
If I remember well, when you do the Force Reg (ie from Forscan app or other tool), the Oil Diluted PID will go to +100 grams. Note that in average, for a Automatic Reg it will increase by 2-3 grams and then will decrease by 2-3 grams after 60-70 km. Therefore a Forced reg it's equivalent with 10k km dilution (considering an avg of 200 km per reg)!
If you ask on other people experts on this engine (also on ForScan forum), they all will tell you that you need to change the oil in order to avoid issues with the oil pump and oil presure.
I was not aware of that Zdarova, thanks. I will look on the Forscan forum when I get a chance. I have had up to 300gms per litre a few years ago when I was suffering faulty injectors.
At the moment I am getting used to wearing hearing aids and trying to sort out the technical side to them.
Hello,
i read that you clean dpf filter on Mazda without removing.
Could you please tell more about?
Are regeneration intervals now better?
Regards,
Samo
If you remove the no.1 Exhaust pressure sensor and or the High pressure side of the DP sensor No. 2, you can add these chemicals via these tubes.
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If you run the engine with this removed, you will pick up the hp side, this is the one before the dpf so putting a cleaning chemical down and leaving overnight to let its do its thing.
The single gas sensor goes to the same place and needs to b proven clear by removing the sensor and running the engine. You will know if its clear or blocked, but a drop of washing up,liquid down them all won't harm. The single one attaches via a banjo so you have small holes that might block.
The nozzle from a latex tube being tapered works quite well and as they are clear you can see the liquid and its speed going down. Start Friday night pour plenty down, leave over night, then do the same Saturday giving it a few hours to soak, rinse through with fresh water and start again.
If you have a bottle with a pump and hose connect that up.
I found that the low pressure side possibly got blocked with carbon and started throwing the code.
The other possibility is blocked intake manifold and Throttle valve if you do a lot of town driving or have a lot of miles on it. You can remove both the EGR valves and EGR cooler quite easy and clean those . Just fill the cooler with rich soapy water and leave a few hours. Rinse through with garden hose until it runs clear.
If you run the engine with this removed, you will pick up the hp side, this is the one before the dpf so putting a cleaning chemical down and leaving overnight to let its do its thing.
The single gas sensor goes to the same place and needs to b proven clear by removing the sensor and running the engine. You will know if its clear or blocked, but a drop of washing up,liquid down them all won't harm. The single one attaches via a banjo so you have small holes that might block.
The nozzle from a latex tube being tapered works quite well and as they are clear you can see the liquid and its speed going down. Start Friday night pour plenty down, leave over night, then do the same Saturday giving it a few hours to soak, rinse through with fresh water and start again.
If you have a bottle with a pump and hose connect that up.
I found that the low pressure side possibly got blocked with carbon and started throwing the code.
The other possibility is blocked intake manifold and Throttle valve if you do a lot of town driving or have a lot of miles on it. You can remove both the EGR valves and EGR cooler quite easy and clean those . Just fill the cooler with rich soapy water and leave a few hours. Rinse through with garden hose until it runs clear.
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Hi! I'm a new member so I couldnt send this as a private message, please anyone who reads this and has had this problem feel free to reply.
I'm having pretty much very similar issues to the ones you had with too frequent regenerations, mine started after my battery died and stayed dead for almost three days, it would seem it can have something to do with an ECU reset... Im a mechanic and so is my dad and still this is causing us a massive headache because its damn Mazda... I was wondering if in your case anything had been going on with the battery right before your issues started. I'm planning a remaping of EVERYTHING at our mazda dealership... it would be interesting to find out if a battery running low, dying or even just being replaced was causing anyone else this sort of issues. Ps. We had our injectors tested at a specialized place before letting mazda touch them and they seem to be doing fine, also everything from EGR and every sensor we could think of were cleaned and are in good health... programming seems to be the cause of the regens at every 20km for me... Which is driving me insane...
Marcy,
If your injectors have been proven in good order, that does seem strange. MAP sensor if choked with carbon is a indication the inlet manifold is.
Have you proved the DPF DP pipes ar clear? The single one, the Exh Press no.1 can get blocked as it goes through a banjo and bolt on the dpf, so the hole in the bolt is suspect, but the pressure is highest there so easy to check. The bad one is the 'after' DPF, pressure is hard to feel even when revved with the sensor removed, but pour some water and washing up liquid down those pipes, if it flows away then its clear,but testing the electrical output to the sensor might take a bit more fiddling. All Mazda do is fit a new one, they should have a rig to test these things but they don't. Replacing a sensor doesn't prove itsa faulty sensor as they probably carry out a forced regen and an injector learn, which clouds the issue for a little longer.
I very much doubt its the battery thats caused the problem, but carrying out relearns to everything may help. Very often disconnecting the battery cures some problems. Bit like an Alt/ Cntrl/ Del in the computer world.
What engine and year is the car?
I assume that's the Portugease flag you are showing?
If your injectors have been proven in good order, that does seem strange. MAP sensor if choked with carbon is a indication the inlet manifold is.
Have you proved the DPF DP pipes ar clear? The single one, the Exh Press no.1 can get blocked as it goes through a banjo and bolt on the dpf, so the hole in the bolt is suspect, but the pressure is highest there so easy to check. The bad one is the 'after' DPF, pressure is hard to feel even when revved with the sensor removed, but pour some water and washing up liquid down those pipes, if it flows away then its clear,but testing the electrical output to the sensor might take a bit more fiddling. All Mazda do is fit a new one, they should have a rig to test these things but they don't. Replacing a sensor doesn't prove itsa faulty sensor as they probably carry out a forced regen and an injector learn, which clouds the issue for a little longer.
I very much doubt its the battery thats caused the problem, but carrying out relearns to everything may help. Very often disconnecting the battery cures some problems. Bit like an Alt/ Cntrl/ Del in the computer world.
What engine and year is the car?
I assume that's the Portugease flag you are showing?
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