What were the baseline numbers? Dyno numbers taken after you do stuff don't mean much unless you have something to compare them too. In this case, stock numbers should be about 130 -135 whp for a 2.0, maybe 140 with just an SRI and pod filter.....so near $2k in bolt-ons for less than 10 hp. Axle back, a decent intake and a good tune will put you closer to 170 whp....outside of that there isn't much you can do with this motor that has any real significant effect, and changing the exhaust pipe diameter by swapping the resonator and/or mid pipe can actually cost you some power. Lots of discussion on this stuff if you read through this section of the forum.....

 

Like I said, it’s a baseline for myself before I get a tune, not really for a stock car. Stock runs about 125-129. It’s not about the money to me, it’s a hobby and I like this platform and want to see it grow. Still on the fence if I should go back to my 60mm corksport racepipe and midpipe or get the 80mm axleback portion to finish off the 3 inch exhaust all the way back. The throttle body upgraded is one of the best bang for you buck upgrades you can do to these cars, improves throttle response a lot. I also have the best intake available for these cars currently. I have a cam at home and I want to do head work as well. Eventually going to go turbo

 

I'd lose the CS exhaust components and stick to the Axle-back.

The intake may be causing airflow restrictions.. put the stock in... run some data logs and then put the aftermarket back in and run more data logs.. after driving 25 miles or so that is.

The stock intake is a cold air intake and does a very good job. I have a 2.5L and use an AEM cold air intake that is designed for the Mazda 6 and is CARB legal for said car. It uses part of the stock intake too to draw outside air in.

It produces similar gains to the max numbers as my K&N 69 Typhoon intake did, but kept the internal air temp closer to the stock intake. About 5 degrees higher on a bunch of data logs I did. The K&N was averaging 13 degrees higher than stock on my logs.

A real tune and testing some various bolt-ons will get you set. I'm OV Tuned for 91 octane (I live in CA) and it made the car a ton more fun. Rafael is also a great guy to work with.. we owe that guy a beer or two.
CK

 

I'd lose the CS exhaust components and stick to the Axle-back.

The intake may be causing airflow restrictions.. put the stock in... run some data logs and then put the aftermarket back in and run more data logs.. after driving 25 miles or so that is.

The stock intake is a cold air intake and does a very good job. I have a 2.5L and use an AEM cold air intake that is designed for the Mazda 6 and is CARB legal for said car. It uses part of the stock intake too to draw outside air in.

It produces similar gains to the max numbers as my K&N 69 Typhoon intake did, but kept the internal air temp closer to the stock intake. About 5 degrees higher on a bunch of data logs I did. The K&N was averaging 13 degrees higher than stock on my logs.

A real tune and testing some various bolt-ons will get you set. I'm OV Tuned for 91 octane (I live in CA) and it made the car a ton more fun. Rafael is also a great guy to work with.. we owe that guy a beer or two.
CK

Definitely get where you’re coming from. From what I’ve seen and read, the intake I have is the best you can buy. It seals with the hood and retains the area where the stock air would come in at.

Now about the exhaust. I’m on the fence about it. I have the 60mm CorkSport racepipe and midpipe which I might put back on. Further research shows that being 80mm, it might be too big on a 2.0 and even the 2.5. If glad I have it, as it’ll be necessary for a turbo, but N/A, it might be too big and I might not be getting full performance from it.

 

What brand gas? any ethonal?

 

Not gonna lie man, I usually run Shell V power 93, but it is so hard to find a Shell off the interstate in the St. Louis area I noticed and I needed gas and wanted a full tank for the runs, so I ended up running Quick Trip (a very popular gas station in the St Louis area I noticed) 93 octane, didn’t pay attention to the ethanol content or lack of. When I go back, I’ll either fill up at the same one or try to find some V power.

 

Dang! A 3” pipe! The dyno graph looks pretty good too with your 3” pipe!
I always struggle if I should upgrade my pipe from 56mm to 62mm or not. But it seems I should make it to 62mm to squeeze more Hp out of it.

 

I’ve measured the stock pipe vs the CorkSport 60mm midpipe/racepipe and the inside diameter is the same. I believe the benefit is that it’s more free flowing as it’s catless