here is the procedure if you dont want to take it to the dealer or if your dealer cant find the TSB
Jaminator
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mine is minimal now but still annoys me here and there. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and hope i don't break anything. thanks alot...Good news peopleI think I figured out exactly which area the tick noise comes from.. I can't say with 100% certainty its the same for everyone with the tick, but it may help the majority of the people.
On the TSB it specifies two places to make a gap, E and F, E is a little lower on the bracket and F is a little further up where it touches the dash upper panel. I took a picture after I put everything back together unfortunately but I circled where the part is where the gap needs to be made, its under the black wiper cowl. The circle in red, labeled F on the TSB was the culprit!
The dealer made the gap at the point labeled E in the TSB (Green circle in my picture). They made a pretty big gap there, at least a few mm, definitely more then the .5mm stated in the TSB, they also didn't use any tape apparently when making that gap and used what seemed to be a jack hammer at that point, scratches all over the place.. I did the best job I could with touchup paint to cover up there scratches there
Just so you know, the dealer didn't even bother making a gap anywhere but point E (green). They didn't read the whole TSB apparently. Chances are many of you have the same issue, where the dealer only made one gap. I did it myself though, removed the wipers, the plastic wiper cowl (just 5 plastic pull clips), then made the small gap about 1mm big. Super easy to do, will take you maybe 20 minutes. This solved my issue. I only went on a short test drive, but the same drive before making this change would have caused many ticks, so I think its all good now
I hope this helps some/most of you. Let me know if you have any questions. Lesson learned, if I have any work done at the dealer again I will insist on watching the entire time, I know not all mechanics are idiots.. but apparently the one I had was and I won't trust this dealer again!
i brought it to a dealership but was unable to re create the faint noise (after 4/5 fixes). i do hear it but it comes so randomly now. i drove over a patch of road which made the noise as i drove to the dealership and then i drove over the same patch with the technician with me and no noise...uggg.
one day it is less frequent...the next day it is more frequent. i wonder if it's the weather...hot or cold.
I appreciate all the help you have provided.
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not sure if i asked you but any updates?
i had the TSB done as well and the noise came back in 3 days. They did another round and the noise is more muted now but I still hear it.
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It could be weather related, possibly if its hotter or colder, as metal expands, even just a very minute amount. I would just suggest making the gap a little bigger, maybe spray some lube or grease in there. I don't think you will break anything though
Did it myself. Didn't even have to fully remove the cowl. Just took out the 5 clips which made enough room to push it out of the way so I could hammer the metal just enough to create a gap. Put a couple of squirts of lithium grease in the area just for the heck of it before replacing the cowl clips. Thx!!!
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Yeah, the black plastic cowl is pretty easy to move, just those 5 plastic clips and then pull forward. It said in the TSB to disconnect the wiper fluid hose, but there is enough slack to move it at least 8-12 inches which is more then enough room.
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I've had the dealer perform the tsb a few times, and the last one made it worse. I ended up fixing it myself.
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...-discussion/68273-i-might-have-solved-dreaded-passenger-dash-ticking-sound.html
Been almost a month since I did the fix and the noise never came back.
I mentioned this once before, but you'd be wise to inform Mazda of your findings. They would likely have their engineers repeat your fix and test for verification. If they concur with your results, then an official TSB would be posted. This would benefit all the Mazda customers seeking a resolution to this, and maybe even get you something of value from Mazda. Thanks again for posting your fix.
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Yeah I might go stop by the dealer this weekend and see what they think. I was going to show this to them when I go in for my next oil change since they're not exactly close by lol I'm very curious to see if this will help others as well so I'll keep y'all updated
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Guys, PLEASE STOP USING THIS TSB to fix cowl click/creak/rattle/thud! It is extremely damaging to the removable firewall that serves as a strut stabilizer/stiffening section.
Our local Mazda dealership tech who was an ex BMW/MINI Tech has fixed this on a number of CX5s. He did the same on my M3 & it works w/o the bruises!
Here is the PROPER FIX:
1. Remove both wipers. Only 1 nut on each arm.
2. Remove all plastic clips that hold the 2pc plastic cowl cover. Unplug the windshield washer hose from the coupler on the passenger side.
3. Remove the wiper motor.
4. REMOVE THE ENTIRE FIREWALL held onto the frame by bolts.
5. Once removed, generously grease all contact areas of the removed firewall/strut reinforcement. Here is the inverted firewall section:
6. Generously grease the contact points & areas on the frame. Shown here is a handful of grease being spread from right to left:
7. Bolt everything back in reverse. Takes about an hour.
NO HAMMERING, NO PRYING, NO FORCED ENTRY....That's a crime, by the way. Flex, torsional, Vibration noises all disappear....TESTED & PROVEN on many CX5s & a few M3s which share pretty much the same construction & material.
Hope this helps.
Our local Mazda dealership tech who was an ex BMW/MINI Tech has fixed this on a number of CX5s. He did the same on my M3 & it works w/o the bruises!
Here is the PROPER FIX:
1. Remove both wipers. Only 1 nut on each arm.
2. Remove all plastic clips that hold the 2pc plastic cowl cover. Unplug the windshield washer hose from the coupler on the passenger side.
3. Remove the wiper motor.
4. REMOVE THE ENTIRE FIREWALL held onto the frame by bolts.
5. Once removed, generously grease all contact areas of the removed firewall/strut reinforcement. Here is the inverted firewall section:
6. Generously grease the contact points & areas on the frame. Shown here is a handful of grease being spread from right to left:
7. Bolt everything back in reverse. Takes about an hour.
NO HAMMERING, NO PRYING, NO FORCED ENTRY....That's a crime, by the way. Flex, torsional, Vibration noises all disappear....TESTED & PROVEN on many CX5s & a few M3s which share pretty much the same construction & material.
Hope this helps.
This makes much more sense than beating on the cowl. I usually dont drive the car on small streets with the radio down so i got an earfull of this noise today. Ill be checking it out here pretty soon. Is there anything else that can be used like a putty or sealer or maybe foam tape as with time im thinking the grease will wash off. Also it may get more views if you start a new thread about this.
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I just attached that discovery to this thread to warn those who'd peek. I never bought into the. TSB for this & would've left it alone. True, grease might wash off, but that area hardly sees nor retains any water. Perhaps a thin foam tape that doesn't compress over time or some sealant could be a better approach. The grease definitely helps w/ the noise & anti-corrosion.
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Hello Mazda family.
I had this noise comming out of the A pillar too after 4000km.
In Czech Republic (Europe) is actually a TSB from 18.8.2014 and I tried it by my self. TSB is: R001/14BCS
I must say,that It works and the A pillar is now quiet,but I only run 100km after this adjustment.
There are 5 more points that needs a hammer treatment (yellow lines).
I have this TSB only in Czech language,but look on the pictures where are the points that needs to be smashed and where is a body work glue required.
Best regards for Czech Rep.
John
I had this noise comming out of the A pillar too after 4000km.
In Czech Republic (Europe) is actually a TSB from 18.8.2014 and I tried it by my self. TSB is: R001/14BCS
I must say,that It works and the A pillar is now quiet,but I only run 100km after this adjustment.
There are 5 more points that needs a hammer treatment (yellow lines).
I have this TSB only in Czech language,but look on the pictures where are the points that needs to be smashed and where is a body work glue required.
Best regards for Czech Rep.
John
Attachments
Hello, Thank you for the clear pictures they were helpful for locating the spots. The revised USA TSB includes the spots you pointed out and one extra. I hammered all 12 spots, did the greasing between the firewall and frame. No more noise:banana 1:
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Please stop using the screw driver & hammer method as stated in the TSB. Hunting it down is part of warranty, therefore, free....that's why they cut corners.
It may take a bit longer to remove the cowl plate as shown in Post 170, but that is the proper way to prevent the metal-metal contact that's causing the noise, without any bruising or stress.
It may take a bit longer to remove the cowl plate as shown in Post 170, but that is the proper way to prevent the metal-metal contact that's causing the noise, without any bruising or stress.
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2,000 Posts
These tsb's don't work, they usually come back after a while or they make the noise even worse. I've had those tsb's done a few times already and never worked completely lol I ended up fixing it myself which was not part of the tsb and noise has been gone ever since.
While I don't have any ticking/creaking noises in my car, I still think it is a function of quality control on Mazda's part. Again, they've not been profitable in the recent past and I think they decided to invest their money in coming out with a new model instead of quality control. For that reason, and the fact that several of you have different solutions that work for you, I'm not sure there is one right answer to this problem. I think this is a tolerance issue and the tolerances are too tight for their production/quality control process. Therefore, the only real solution is to try them one at a time until you find one that works for your car.
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