[Road Trip]

Are you sure you are not going to need winter tires the next weeks? It's still early February.

Temperatures in the 50’s for the foreseeable future; in fact our best weather forecaster said yesterday, that winter is done where we live. Also have a AWD WRX with snow tires and a 4WD pickup up with snows.

As we only have two drivers, we will be just fine.

 

[Road Trip]

With the end of an early winter here, just removed the studded Nokian winter tire/wheel set yesterday, and put on the summer wheels with the brand new Continental DWS 06’s. First impressions are that they are really, really good, but I am following my usual and tire manufacturer recommended “be gentle” for their first two hundred miles” standard. I will get on it in about a week.

For those who have not seen Conti’s break in standards, they are below, and super short/easy to understand, However, they are harder to comply with as I really want to test how good they are LOL. But we will be good during the 200 miles...; then have big fun!

New tires have to be driven a few hundred miles on dry roads to rid the tread of parting agents and antioxidants applied during production. Not until the tread has been slightly roughened will the tire be able to make its true gripping power felt.
What's more, flooring it and slamming on the brakes can cause tire/rim slip in the first few hundred miles of tire use. That's because the lubricant used in mounting the tire has an initial tendency to reduce the adherence of these two parts.

 

[Road Trip]

When I took off my Michelin A/S 3+’s at 5,600 miles they were evenly worn, but worn heavily (projected total life of around 17,000 miles, maybe even less), Discount Tire stepped up, gave me a screaming trade in amount, and with not much more, I now have a brand new set of Contineatal DWS 06’s mounted on my summer wheels.

Of course, having bought about 12 sets of tires from them in the last 15 years, helped them to help me.

 

[Road Trip]

While I do not need studded snows but maybe eight days a year due to freezing rain, with the extreme sleep terrain getting up two mile steep hill toward my house, with a long, long downslope in the middle, then a nice climb to our house, even world class snows do not cut it on certain icing occasions.

Last year, in my ‘17 WRX with brand new Michelin X-Ice i3 snow tires (less than 400 miles on them), I could not get out onto the main road during in one, 1” freezing rain event, and we wowed that we are never going to be stuck again.

In fact for this Christmas Eve/Christmas two-day freezing rain event, I chose the Mazda 3 with the studded Hakka 8’s over the WRX with the now 1,500 miles Michelin X-Ice’s — and I made the right choice, for as above, there were AWD vehicles in ditches while we motored flawlessly around them, stuck cars on the road, etc.

As Midnightsky228 posted, and he encountered up to 1’of snow, the Mazda 3 is incredibly stable with proper tires.

I will never be without a set of winter wheels with studded Nokian’s in the future. My adrenaline level never went up even 1/2 notch in 250 miles of driving over the two day event. The tires and the car resulted in a very calm, reassuring, super-stable, super-capable bit of winter driving.

 

[Road Trip]

Just did my latest mod, installing the winter wheels with studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8’s. And just in time for freezing rain and snow that arrived later that day (Christmas Eve).

To say that there were hundreds of vehicles that had skidded off the road, including more than a few with AWD and 4WD, would be an understatement. Freezing rain with a 2” crust of snow between all the travel lanes. To say our car did not move 1/8” of an inch in the 250 miles over the two days would be totally accurate. What a feeling of being stuck to the pavement! EVen when going from one lane to another to pass a freaked out driver going 20 MPH.

Not too loud, yet so safe. For those who are not aware of studded Nokian’s, they are the tire of choice where they are made, e.g. Finland, and unlike 98% of the studded tires you can buy here in the states which have 100 studs/tire, they have 200.

And for those who are worried about pavement damage, under each stud is bedded on a temperature sensitive cushion inside the tire, so that when it’s above freezing, the studs slid into the cushion, minimalism pavement damage, but when it gets to around/below 34 degrees, the cushions become hard to keep the studs protruding out from the rubber to create supper traction.

Going to hard freeze again tonight, and with another day with a layer of ice on the road, my new feeling is “so what.”

 

[Road Trip]

Just changed my JBR short shift, and made it better!

About two months ago, I installed James Barone Racing’s “AdjustableShort Shift Arm” kit. Been enjoying that significant shifting improvement ever since. However, as I usually do, I progressively ramp up functional mods (as I also did with my rear sway bar settings), so when I initially installed JBR’s short shifter, I installed their system with a 20% shift throw reduction.

Their DIY instructions are excellent!

http://jamesbaroneracing.com/suppor...ort/2014+ Mazda3-6 and 2013+ CX-5 Short Shift Arm Installation Instructions.pdf

JBR’s system is unique, in that it provides in one system, the ability to change the OEM throws from a 20% reduction to a 40% one (or the reverse).

If one wishes to change the percentage of throw reduction either way, use their instructions, but SKIP steps 9, 10, and 11, and also SKIP steps 13 through 17, and thus you can change from one ratio to the other in a matter of 10 minutes (my being extra slow and methodical and not wanting to drop any tools and screws along the way). All is takes to change the shift reduction ratio, is moving one pin from one pin hole to another; however one first needs to remove engine accessory parts which are in the way of getting to making that shift pin location change.

While I really, really liked their 20% shift throw reduction, I am now LOVING their 40% shorter throw. Great system JBR, now even shorter, quicker, and more precise, now 40% reduced!!!

 

[Road Trip]

Jason does top notch work. My favorite piece of all for my WRX is the intrument trim surround, changing the OEM dull/flat plastic to this:

 

[Road Trip]

Finally, the mod I tried to months ago is now done, a real leather shift boot cover!

I have always been very pleased with the interior of our car, though IMO there was one thing that distracted I quickly noticed in my original test drive, i.e., I came away from that experience feeling that the one interior piece I thought looked low-budget was the vinyl shift boot cover (it was just not up the class of the rest of its interior).

Some may remember that I first ordered a leather shift boot from RedlineGoods, and while even its owner assured me on the phone that it would fit, and it also stated on their website, it did not.

Here is the OEM "before" picture:



What it now looks like:



Jason's work@Overland-Designs is outstanding (I have six different items of his on my '17 WRX). While he previously only did his leather word on Subaru items, I sent him a pattern for the 2014+ Mazda 3 manual trans, shift boot cover. If you are interested, full contact information for him is in post #1, sub section # 37 of this thread.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=1

 

[Road Trip]

I have not. That subject is of interest and knowledge to many of our members. I would suggest starting a new thread.

 

[Road Trip]

Installed GRP (German Racing Parts), much stronger than OEM, rear sway bar endlinks. "Moved" the connection location of my Progress sway bar to their "firmest" setting.

Purchase info/link/pricing is in the first post of this thread, sub-section # 36.

Ride review: This is a great upgrade for those who like a firmly sprung ride, with almost no body roll/lean, and understeer is now gone as a consequence.

Conversely, for those who are looking for a "more cushy" ride, stick with my previous factory OEM endlink and the Progress sway bar on its softer setting. You will still have some body roll, but significantly less than OEM, and some understeer, but again less than OEM.

I am glad I made this second-stage suspension upgrade. I especially thank @arathol for months ago laying out how this combination would work, and he was "spot on."

 

[Road Trip]

Been waiting and waiting (over 6 weeks) for a OEM part. It has just arrived (was not one in the country, had to come from Japan). It now goes to be custom modified, then about August 20th, will be installed.

 

[Road Trip]

The more I thought about all your advice, even though the Progress RSB Engineer said he was comfortable with the OEM links when his sway bar was in the firmer postion..., the more I began to question things.

So even knowing the 2017 endlinks are supposedly upgraded, I climbed back under the car and looked at them. They sure did not look that strong to me, so, again with thanks for all your advice, I just ordered the German Racing Product (GRP) adjustable ones many of you have had great success with.

And so while last week ended with no new mods planned in the next month or two, that sure did not last...
They should arrive and be installed next week. Then with them and the RSB changed to the firmer setting, no more understeer, no more body roll.

 

[Road Trip]

As I knew the possibility of my going into it, my very-short-term steering wheel cover is no more. No sign that it was ever on the steering wheel (whew!). Just too big of a diameter. Have realigned where I place my hands on the wheel slightly, so that my thumbs are not exactly where the 10:00 and 2:00 steering wheel bumps are, wiith the wheel being larger in diameter there and having some stitching, finding the grip I was looking for when my hands are exactly in those places.

Ideal solution? Far from it, for we all want to sometimes move our hands and hold the wheel in different places, but best solution for me to date.

If someone wears size XL gloves and has long fingers, having your read the above posts #'s 244 & 245, just PM me, and if you live in the U.S., I will send it to you for free, including its shipping. Hopefully it would work well for you.

 

[Road Trip]

Very little additional is planned (just the surprise one that will not take place for around a month, but predictable in a way), and getting my winter tires (Nokian Hakkapeliitta 8's) mounted onto my now "Ultra Black Chrome" powder-coated, silver OEM's 18".

However, all know who have the mod addiction, as soon as something strikes me, it will become the next mod. (In the last month did two more to my WRX that "I couldn't live without." ) I check our two large, long running mod threads pretty much daily -- looking for new ones.

And of course, I am still on the hunt for a complete new heated steering wheel that would work for a 2017.

I have some really long road trips planned before the year is out, for while I love modding, I love being on the road much more.

 

[Road Trip]

With just a few days left on my temporary license tags, time to install the 2017 front license plate relocator (thanks to @minsanity for teaching me about this). I live in a required front plate state. As always, I want my front plate mounted as low as possible and along the centerline of the car (just my personal preference). So with that in mind, I bought this system, had it as my first mod part in my house, about two months before my car even arrived at the dealership.

As most know, this system allows one to install the plate in such a way that, for example, if it is sold to an out of state buyer or the owner moves to the lucky 30+ states which do not require a front place, all evidence of its ever being mounted, totally disappears. Here are the parts that make it up this front LP system.

From the front (which of course is hidden by the plate itself):



From the underside (showing this so all can see its provided two-sided, mounting tape which is a nice redundancy -- but secure even without it):



Top view:

This shows the "backing plate" which is behind your lower grille, the two long, front-to-back bolts which secure/lock it all together, and the main mounting block:



Initial step for installation (at least the way I did it); this temporary tape allows one person to place the behind-the-grille backing plate so that one person can do the job easily. Apologies for the lousy tape job, for all I wanted to do was to hold it in place until I installed the mounting block in the front of the grille and ran the long bolts through all into the back plate. I fished out the temp tape after all was totally secured):



Note: This Bell License Mounting Plate was/is recommended for this system (now $5.49@Napa Auto Parts); however, I am willing to bet all auto parts stores have something identical by another manufacturer; and, I know you can get one at Amazon too, though made by "Flagline"):



The terrific thing about using the Bell or Flagline or equivalent mounting plate, is that you can move your license plate itself up and down and even make angle adjustments when using it (e.g., by drilling extra holes, adding washers on the bottom mounting means between the plate itself and the plate frame, etc). I choose to have the top edge of mine angle back, and to have it mounted as low as I could without reducing my front ground clearance.

To mount the plate itself to the plastic mounting plate, I always use stainless steel nuts, bolts, washer, locker washers, and "Nylac" locking nuts. Here is a kit I started with from Amazon, and supplemented it with a few left over stainless parts from previous LP mountings.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Li...013A0Y8J0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501295128&sr=8-4&keywords=License+Plate+Bolts

And here is what I ended up with:



Thank you again @minsanity for developing this front plate mounting system! The plate is on so sturdy, and it is just where I wanted it.

 

[Road Trip]

FMS steering wheel cover driving report:

Driving with the FMS steering wheel cover on curvy roads, out in the middle of nowhere, has demonstrated some of its considerable positives (compared to the OEM wheel). Before getting into its strengths, it is important to realize the obvious, that the cover increases the rim diameter, and for those whose glove size is "small," you probably will not like it. My wife has smaller hands than I (her gardening gloves are mens' size "medium") , and I will post her "driving report" in a few days. Even with my medium length fingers (size "large" gloves), I wish the steering wheel with its cover were just the tinniest bit touch thinner. Yes, I am laughing at myself, for my going from the wheel being too small by a good amount with the OEM wheel, to now, with the steering wheel cover on, being a "tiny touch" larger in diameter than would be perfect for me.

Overall however, with the steering wheel cover installed, it is a major improvement to me in important other ways as follows:

I never before felt comfortable in driving with one hand (and before anyone gets upset, I live in the middle of nowhere and on my 20 mile test drive, I did not come up upon anyone in front of me, nor did anyone come up behind me). Now, I feel very comfortable in driving with one hand. And my taking very tight corners in a very spirited manner with two hands on the wheel, is more of a joy!

The material/texture of the SW cover is excellent, better than OEM. It has just enough texture so unlike before, I no longer feel the wheel is slippery. Consequently, also for the first time, I was able to safely and comfortably rest my right elbow on the center console and drive down the road, totally relaxed, with only my right hand on the wheel (in the 5:00 position).

And contrary to my concerns before I bought it, the SW cover's edges do not dig into any part of my hands, especially not any part of my fingers, as the edges of the cover transition into wonderfully into the OEM wheel. In fact, that transition already feels very natural and comfortable.

Because the cover has IMO the perfect texture, I find my hands on the wheel 1000% relaxed (as compared to before where I felt the need to apply some hand pressure into the wheel rim when I was taking corners in order to insure I was adequately controlling the wheel).

So at this time, it was $23.79 well spent. I am interested in my wife's reaction when she drives it next week, and will post back what she says.

 

[Road Trip]

Color me initially very happy, for the FMS steering wheel cover (size 15M in black genuine leather @ $23.79, with purchase link below) arrived today. Unlike many of its competitors in its price range which come all folded up in an envelope sized package, with buyers complaining about subsequent wrinkles, mine arrived inside of a perfect-sized, large cardboard box, with a 1" diameter white foam shipping tube inside of it to keep it circular.

I was next pleased with its uniform stitching and its leather. Is it Ferrari quality, of course not, but very nice, in fact excellent for its price.

Prior to installing it, I it onto a flat, black plastic board and let it sit in the sunshine for 20 minutes, then was flipped and rotated 180 degrees for another 20 minutes.

It went on in less than a minute (best install DIY I saw is linked below). And IMO, it feels good -- just the diameter that Mazda should have made it. As it is lined, some might think it is a touch too big. I do not, really liking its diameter. Is it a visual improvement? Hell no. I hope it is temporary, with someone later making a great-looking wheel to fit a 2017 with the heated wheel option.




https://www.amazon.com/FMS-Universa...omotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1501270227&sr=1-30-spons&keywords=steering+wheel+cover&th=1

https://youtu.be/anWzHWfasXA

 

[Road Trip]

Thank you for that suggestion. Will do.

 

[Road Trip]

Going to the Dark Side!

I really like our Mazda 3. It is a wonderful great car to drive on curvy roads, except every time I grip the steeering wheel, especially when driving the car in a spirited manner, the feel on the steering wheel is all wrong for me, in that the diameter of its circumferential rim around it is too thin/scrawny.

At the same time, I hate steering wheel covers, every after exploring the very best ones made by Wheelskins, decided not to buy them (even though they are of the type that is laced around the entire rim with one continuous lace). I rejected the Wheelskins cover for two reasons. One is that I am a perfectionist, and with my knowing I could not personally lace it so it looked terrific, I contacted the best local interior aftermarket company (a Katzskin approved installer), and they said that even with their best installer, they could not avoid all wrinkles -- even with their estimating a labor charge of $125-$150 (plus the purchase price of around $65).

Many of you and I have been working on buying complete steering wheel options. -- and at least two good ones have been "located" for a 2014-2016. But with a 2017 GT, all aftermarket options that any of us so far have found, eliminate the GT's heated steering wheel capability.

So I am temporarily going to the dark side!

I am getting a steering wheel cover, not the kind that is laced, but is a "friction fit cover" the just slips around the entire wheel. It has not only a genuine leather exterior, but a complete underside layer of natural rubber). Amazon's ad says: "FMS Genuine Leather Car Steering Wheel Cover Universal 15 Inch -- Black, Durable, Breathable, Anti-Slip, Odorless":

https://www.amazon.com/FMS-Universa...ssories-Black-Breathable/dp/B01M0IQBFY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Here's a pic:



It may be removed with a day, but if it it changes the wheel's feel from scrawny to great while driving, and if it looks okay (it is never going to look great), I will live with it until a better option arises. I so wish that Corksport changes it mind and eventually makes a 2017 GT steering wheel replacement.

I have ordered it, and since Amazon says it is in stock with a two day delivery, I will know soon, as you will with the pictures I post thereafter.

Again, it could be $23.79 wasted totally and quickly wasted, but at that price, I will take a chance.

 

[Road Trip]

Thank you @USCTrojan4JC for that important clarification that there is a different part number for the 4-door (and for providing that P/N).