For the headliner route, I'd be cautious about running into the side curtain airbag inflator, but it'd be little different from negotiating around the airbag module on the A-pillar (might be the same thing). I'd be sure to insulate the wires with foam tape, so you don't hear it rattling around up there.

Also, I'd opt for the method that would give me easier access if I need to make changes later on.

I personally would route it the traditional way you mentioned.

 

Yeah, I agree. I found this video on YouTube that shows how to route the wires for a 3rd generation Mazda 3, which is similar to the 2019 model.

 

Also looks like the fuse box by the drivers side foot has power all the time.. going to have to find another location to pickup power.. so my dashcam turns off when I turn off the car. Lol

 

Tric, use a multimeter to test voltage when you turn on and off the car.
Traditional candidates are accessory outlet and audio fuses.
Tap-a-fuse makes the job easier.
This video, if you haven't seen it, should help you, starting at scrub marker 5:30:

 

Tric, use a multimeter to test voltage when you turn on and off the car.
Traditional candidates are accessory outlet and audio fuses.
Tap-a-fuse makes the job easier.
This video, if you haven't seen it, should help you, starting at scrub marker 5:30: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZpix4rfVz0

Used a Multi-meter... Everything is live in that box with the car off... even the Audio and outlet fuses. I too had a Gen3 and had it hooked up this way.... but looks like the 2019 is different.. Radio is powered all the time.. if I pull the Audio fuse the radio loses its memory of its last radio station and goes back to the default.. looks like I might have to go though the firewall rubber garment to the fuse box under the hood.

 

Would be nice to have some workshop guides in PDF to know how to strip some interior and exterior trims
They should be on the web by now

 

Here's the instructions for mine i put in my youtube video for a Gen 3 (which is just dashcam footage, no install help in video)

install: used front power outlet fuse (on off with car), or you can use rear power outlet fuse for permanent power. Remove rubber door seal around A-pillar (just pull it off). Ran wires behind front edge of headliner (just tuck behind, no removal required), then behind A pillar top edge (again, just tuck behind, no need to remove A-pillar trim), then with door seal off you'll see plenty of room to tuck wires behind the normally hidden (by door seal) interior trim all the way down to the foot well fuse box. Re-install door seal, add fuse tap to front power outlet fuse, connect usb 5v box red wire to hot fuse tap wire, and 5v box ground wire (black) to a nut right next to fuse box. Enjoy.

 

This is great information. Thank you so much! You might want to check your links though. None of them worked for me.

 

Here is a list of the fuses in the kick panel area of the 2019 Mazda 3. Do any of these look like good candidates for the constant and switched (if it exists) power options?

 

And here is the fusebox under the hood.

 

Yeah just checked everything in the kick fuse box even the blank ones are live to going to have to get my power from under the hood fuse box

 

Okay, I can confirm that ALL of the interior fuses near the 2019 Mazda 3 kick panel are in fact live as well. However, when I checked the engine bay fuse box I found five that appear to be switched. They are as follows:

F8-Engine Control Systems
F10-Engine Control Systems
F11-Air Conditioner
F12-Engine Control Systems
F30-Accessory Sockets

I think you can tell who the lucky winner is.

The only problem is that Mazda has done a really good job of ensuring that no water makes its way into the cabin. I found a large rubber grommet where most of the wiring is being fed through, but getting to it inside the engine bay is nearly impossible.

I also need something rigid but dull that I can fish through the grommet to help feed the ACC wire. If it glowed in the dark or lit up that would be even better. Suggestions?

 

Some people on dashcamtalk.com are suggesting that I tap into one of the Engine Control Systems fuses. That makes me a little nervous. Here's the thread: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/a129-in-a-2019-mazda-3.38878/

 

I use F-18 under the hood for accessories works great turns on and off at the car now pretty easy going through that rubber garment in front of the driver seat through the firewall

 

What's an F-18 and do you have a link? What did you use to guide the wire through the rubber grommet?

 

Is the F18 accessories socket 5v? I am trying to fuse tap my Yi dash cam as well.

 

@tsaoandy, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. No. As far as I know, most, if not all, of the Mazda3 sockets are 12V. Can anyone else confirm this?

 

I figure out that the USB port will shut down after 10-15 mins, so I decided to just use the USB port ?

 

Just checked my USB, power still on after 30 minutes, 2019 Mazda 3. Looks like through the firewall & under the hood.

 

Anyone try a mirrortap yet?? Looking to mirrortap on my 2019 sport. Just don't want to break clips taking the mirror/rain sensor cover off

 

Mirrortap or Vampire clip - Power for Radar/Dashcam = GREEN, Ground = BLACK. This is a 2019 Mazda 3 Sport

 

I use the fuse box INSIDE the car, paired up with an auto cut of voltage regulator. I am using a nextbase 412 camera. I use a third party fuse break out cable which came with the regulator but the official nextbase cable also includes one (that biig chucker box attached to the cable).

iirc the fuse I used is labeled Audio it doesn't actually power the audio but more power the central dial next to the armrest.

 

What exactly is an "auto cut off voltage regulator"? And where the heck do I buy one? I've been trying to solve this problem for 3 months now, without success. I even plugged in a switch to the OBD-II port - so I could manually turn it off and on. Unfortunately, it's so hard to remember to do this each and every time. Eventually I forget and it kills the battery. My 2016 Mazda 3 was so much simpler.

 

SHISHUO Dash Cam Hardwire Kit - Mini USB and Micro USB: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Buy SHISHUO Dash Cam Hardwire Kit - Mini USB and Micro USB Port 4m Cable with 5 Fuse Types ACU/ACN/ACZ/Micro2/Micro3, 12V to 24V Input, 5V Output for Dash Cam GPS Sat-Nav with Battery Drain Protection at Amazon UK.

www.amazon.co.uk

Thats the exact cable I used and wired into the internal fuse box.

 

Did anyone try a ODB connection?

 

'19 Mazda 3 - Mirrortap for Radar Detector/DashCam

Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror. Mirrortap or Vampire clip or Solder as follows: Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground...

www.mazda3revolution.com

It would probably be helpful to have all the 'How To" guides in the same place...

 

A little late to the game, but I'm successfully using one of these to supply a switched 12v supply to my dash cam. I'll probably use it for a amp remote as well if I ever install one.

Edit: Picked up for under $20 on Amazon

PAC IGN-1 phantom ignition power module

PAC-Audio

PAC-Audio

catalog.pac-audio.com

 

That looks like it might be the right catch for me. Would You mind explaining an idiot (me) how to install it?

 

Turns out the plug pictured is only available with an auto-dimming rear view mirror. Even though I have the Mazda3 2019 Premium it doesn't come with one. But I was able to tap into the power for the front seat airbag indicator and rear seat belt indicators on overhead console. Wires are small (something like 22 gauge) and not much room to tap but I was able to do it. Final results look great and only powers on when vehicle is running.

Attached document shows how to take apart the overhead console (I was only interested in Fig 1.6 and 1.7). Caution that it's not entirely correct - for my vehicle, for Fig 1.7 it slid toward back of car, not toward front.

12V to 5V converter fit comfortably in the overhead console as well.

 

Turns out the plug pictured is only available with an auto-dimming rear view mirror. Even though I have the Mazda3 2019 Premium it doesn't come with one. But I was able to tap into the power for the front seat airbag indicator and rear seat belt indicators on overhead console. Wires are small (something like 22 gauge) and not much room to tap but I was able to do it. Final results look great and only powers on when vehicle is running.

Attached document shows how to take apart the overhead console (I was only interested in Fig 1.6 and 1.7). Caution that it's not entirely correct - for my vehicle, for Fig 1.7 it slid toward back of car, not toward front.

12V to 5V converter fit comfortably in the overhead console as well.

Absolutely amazing that you were able to figure this out, and only 4 months after I posted this entire process (along with the PDF for the installation of the autodimming mirror) in the How To section of this forum.

'19 Mazda 3 - Mirrortap for Radar Detector/DashCam

Vehicle - 2019 Mazda 3 Sport AWD GT Premium Wiring instructions for hardwiring your radar detector or dashcam to the Homelink Rearview Mirror. Mirrortap or Vampire clip or Solder as follows: Power for Radar/Dashcam (Red) = GREEN +12VDC Switched Ground Wire (Black) = BLACK Ground...

www.mazda3revolution.com

So the actual question is did you not know that information exists (Post #35 above links to it) or did you duplicate my process entirely from scratch (maybe great minds think identically alike?)

 

Has anyone tried OBD II charger to power dashcam?
Something like this one:

7.35US $ |DVR Driving Recorder Buck Line OBD Interface DC Converter Module Micro USB 5V 3A Power Supply Cable For DVR|DVR Holders| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

a.aliexpress.com

 

my is tap wire from 12v supply / cigarette lighter in storage box

 

Hi there new to the forum. Been looking at how to install the blackvue dashcam along with the pmp on my girlfriend new mazda 3. I have been looking online for information on how to get it wired up and ended up with nothing as the cabin fuse are all hot. After alot of head scratches on how to get this dashcam to work i started pulling stuff apart I found a way to get through to the engine bay without any problems. I used the accessory socket fuse for my switched wire and one of the fuse inside the cabin for my constant. After all that tested the dash cam and its all working. I don't have photos with at this stage but can get some for those who wants to know. Also this is for the rhd australian mazda 3.

 

Uh, maybe a pointer or hint on what stuffs did you pull apart so that you easily found a way to run through cables to the engine bay?

 

Hi all
I own a new 2020 mazda 3 manual, I want to install my old dashcam, but I didn't want to run a cable through the engine's firewall, neither the USB nor the mirrortap, so this is my solution.
I made a custom relay activated by an accelerometer sensor controlled by an arduino , which can be programmable to behave differently (sensor sensitivity, off delay time, different power mode to save battery life).
The installation is still from inside the fuse box .
What it does is: the relay turns on the dashcam when the sensor detect motion, then when the car stops after a while (10 min for me) it will turn off the dash cam.
So far so good, it works as expected, just to make a couple of tweaks to the arduino code.

let me know what you guys think

 

Here's my setup for now. I originally had plugged into 12v in the center storage, but wire was poking out to the side.
Used switch and hid it in the left side small storage, using interior fuse box connected to audio. I think its F13.
As you already know interior fuses are constant power. The hard wire kit I have has voltage limiter, so it stops when voltage drops below 12 if I forget to switch off. Also set the dashcam to turn off if no activies are captured.
So far so good, just need to switch off before I get out.

 

I spent quite some time following this thread and considering the custom relay or dashcam hardwire kit. However, my solution is I realized that my dashcam actually support (1) timelapse mode which takes 1 frame per second. (2) auto turn off after certain times which can be controlled by the dashcam smartphone app.

So, my final setting is to set the camera to enter Timelapse mode after 15min of inactivity and auto turn off the dashcam completely after 1 hour.

I've tried this setting for a few days, dashcam really turned off on its own after 1hr and I still can start the car the next morning

My dashcam mini Dash Cam-DDPAI social camera,Image My World