A lot of people on Mazdaspeed Forums use that product. But don't take my word, become a member of the forum and learn more about the mazdaspeed there than you will anywhere else.

 

No. Do not buy from them. They have a terrible failure record. The companies former name was PTP. Matter of fact they were kicked off of Mazdaspeedforums.org as a vendor because their product and customer service was so shitty. Basicallly there are two reliable fuel pump upgrades right now. Buy a complete pump from cp-e or buy Autotech internals. Cp-e is $650 and Autotechs are $350. Contact Jp@edgeautosport.com for the best price on either.

 

when you say contact for best price, do they drop below $350? or its just another way to purchase for the same price? which is still pretty good and they have the tuner for $535.pretty sure i read on another thread you were saying the install is pretty easy just a little time consuming right?

 

Like warlord said and get the autotech do your own work on your car

 

Ok all you had to say was ptp I know all about them from when I had my srt4 thanks for the input guys

 

Ain't these pretty? JP has five left.

CPE HPFPs - Mazdaspeed Forums

 

I got one from JP and it shipped real quick. I can't wait to install it. Edge Autosport has great customer service.

 

I think it's funny that all these CP-e pumps are showing up everywhere since the Autotech internals are doing so well. LOL

I hope CP-e chokes on their supply

On a side note, why isn't Edgeautosport a vendor on here?

 

You need to contact JP for that $350 price because it's a special he's running on another forum. It's not an every day price. Autotech install takes about an hour. Only special tool you need but probably don't have is an E8 inverted torx socket. Cleanliness is next to Godliness when doing the install. Thouroughly clean the new internals with intake cleaner (not gasoline) and then lube the internals generously with fresh clean synthetic motor oil and the install will go smoothly. Flash a stage2 map on your Cobb AP and monitor fuel pressure. It will be 425 psi at idle with a/c off and 1750-1850 at WOT. If that's not the case then something didn't go right with the install. Don't drive if the pressures aren't what I mentioned.

 

^that and don't forget a bench vice or an extra set of hands to hold it in place

 

....and torque the 18mm nut that holds the internals in place to 35lbs in the bench vise that Oliver mentioned. Oh yeah, cause I'm cheap I bought the vice at HD, used it for the install then returned it the same day. Home Depot tool rental FTW.

 

hahaha.. lol... I did the same thing

 

sent a message to see the price for the pump and tuner combined. Autotech Hi Volume Fuel Pump Upgrade HPFP Internals Mazdaspeed 3 6 MS3 MS6 if i run into any problems on the install ill just come back to the sweet forums thanks for the advice and the heads up on the special tool. its like opening a gift and the person forgot to give you the batteries with it

 

Oh, so that is an everyday price now. Cool.

 

Hey Vinny!а Price for both combined would be 885.46 including shipping.а We have both in stock and actually that price is advertised online right now so you're more than welcome to use the site to make the purchase.а Otherwise, you can also give me a call direct at 720 215 0225 to order.а Thanks for getting in touch!

THINK I AM ABOUT TO GO FOR IT

 

Do it. Do you have the other mods needed to justify going stage2 like a down pipe or a race pipe (an intake and at least one cat deleted)? You don't have a signature so we can't see what mods you have on your car already.

 

Do it. Do you have the other mods needed to justify going stage2 like a down pipe or a race pipe (an intake and at least one cat deleted)? You don't have a signature so we can't see what mods you have on your car already.[/QUOTE

installed the stage 1 map for cs sri+tih last night with the cobb tuner and i am more than pleased. was with my buddy last night who owns the sti he bought a tuner too because he said i was gonna give him a run for his moneyif i mod any more. wasted abour 1/4 tank of gas or a lil more just seeing the difference from the stock map thanks for all the advice guys

 

i have the cs sri with the tih. gonna do stage two just a matter of the $$$ so little by little. at least i can re map for the intake on the tuner for now. my only prob is i wanna go 80 mm for the whole intake/exhaust set up and i dont have the bucks to buy everything all at once so i cant have 65 mm parts meeting up with 80 mm parts. you know what i mean? and i dont wanna buy the race pipe twice

 

so at least when the time comes ill be ready for stage 2 with the tuner ( i can use now) and the hpfp i am gonna need anyway. i had a conversation with sp33dy http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/...formance/9459-corksport-adds-high-flow-catalyst-option-downpipe.html#post112920 in this thread and he gave me that little push i was looking for then i found the post with your link for the $350 hpfp and made the order

 

Since when did Autotech advertise 50% more flow than the stocker ?

That's 2700psi

I haven't seen even a 35R setup needing that.

 

Since when did Autotech advertise 50% more flow than the stocker ?

That's 2700psi

Flow and Pressure are two different things.

Captain, go with the Lord and buy a can of MAF cleaner, you will want to have it.

Z

 

I did the autotech install this weekend, and so far so good. I haven’t pushed the car at all but I’m seeing ~400 at idle and about 1750 at about 50-70% throttle. Think I hit maybe 12 psi boost max.

It took me WAY LONGER than an hour - but everything does with this car. I can vouch for a bench-vise, part of the reason it took so long, I had to buy one and mount it... hopefully I'll use it again.

Anyway- now that I've done it, I have some questions and doubts. I definitely got brake parts cleaner on the o-rings - is this an issue? It was Autozone brand non-chlorinated, if that makes any difference. I see some people having o-ring expansion and pinching when that happens?

When I went to install the pump back into the engine - I wasn’t able to just use my hands to seat it fully - and had to use the 3 bolts to get it fully seated. That said - I did tighten the bolts evenly - and it never required more than my fingers holding the E8 socket until the very end, so it’s not like I was forcing it really.

For what it's worth, the o-rings looked fine to me.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Thanks in advance.

 

if the o-ring was damaged you would know by any oil collecting on top of your trans. I had this issue and half the ring was missing when I replaced it 1k after the FP upgrade.

 

Ok - thats sort of what I figured, I'll keep an eye on it. Do you know why this happened to you? Know if it was the brake cleaner?

My other question though - installing the pump - seems most people just are able to seat it fully by hand? Anyone who's done this without messing up the o-ring - did the whole pump assembly just easily slide back into place?

I looked up the MSDS for the Autozone Brake Claner- has Toluene in it - which I guess is known to eat rubber. That said, I don't know if those o-rings are rubber, or urethane or what. They didn't look screwed up to me, or like they expanded or anything.

 

Not sure why everyone uses brake cleaner. I used intake/maf cleaner. Brake cleaner is for brakes. Intake cleaner is for a fuel system. Makes more sense to me.

http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.html

 

Not sure why everyone uses brake cleaner. I used intake/maf cleaner. Brake cleaner is for brakes. Intake cleaner is for a fuel system. Makes more sense to me.

CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner (11 oz.) - CRC05110

Autotech's instruction suggest it - didn't even know there was an intake specific cleaner available... But I wasn't looking for it either.

 

Mine went straight back in with no issues but others have had issues based on the position of the cam. They were forced to turn the crank to get the cam into a position where the spring did not need to be compressed to reinstall the FP. As far as putting it back in, it was fairly simple IIRC, slide in and make sure the hard tubing connection is going on properly (did not do this so I got some reinstall practice), then use the torx/allens (cannot remember) to pull the pump in, one turn on each and rotate around until the pump is in, finish off by torquing. Does this answer your question Captain?

I actually got the CPE (I am lazy and like lifetime warranties) so I have some instructions at home if you want them.

Z

 

Yeah I think it does, thanks for the input. I'm just going to keep my eye on it for oil leaking and monitor it via the AP and be sure everything is functioning correctly. For me, I had to remove both the battery and the SRI (I have a limited tool set, and that’s what I had to do to get to it) - which I guess isn’t all that hard - but I don't want to do it all again if I don't have to.

I'm pretty sure all is well with it - it wasn't at all difficult to put into place, but it didn’t slide in by hand as others have stated (or like your CP-E pump did) - I had to use the torx heads to get it flush with the rest of the assembly, but I wasn't forcing it - it was all basically done with my fingers.

It seems like the tell-tale symptom is oil leaking from the one main o-ring area - so I'll keep my eye out for that.

Anyone reading this - the moral of the story is - use MAF cleaner, seems purpose formulated for something like this - where as brake cleaner is questionable.

 

I used a tiny bit of 5-30 M1 to lube the o-ring before I installed my pump. Pump slipped right in and the cam follower was in a good position (luck of the draw) which helped. Supposedly Mazda gets $50 for that o-ring if you did pinch/tear it. PM Silvapain on MSF. He knows the part # to order it from McMaster Carr for $10.

 

scale of 1-10 for a DIY'r...how hard is it to upgrade the OEM pump with the autotech parts? I'm not trying to be 'cheap'...but no reason to spend an extra $300 if all that is needed is some manual intervention and elbow grease.