[Connie04]

Short answer is YES, but...
When DPF regen is on, you should get hi fuel consumption. But regeneration shouldn't be so often!
Actually, with my 1,5 skyactive diesel 55.000 km engine , I have the same (copy paste) issue! Last week I had my oil and filter changed after 3000 km- X level reached again for the second time in last 2-3 month's !!! Last 30 days I get regeneration every day!!! Every day!!! Last week I was on 40km highway trip - had DPF regeneration in both directions!!! Two times that day...
So in my case, regeneration gets at every 20-30km. I guess that I am holding some kind of 'DPF regen record' at this forum
So...I called official Mazda service...again, scheduled service for front brake pads replacement, and informed them about this issue.
Last time, when I had oil change after 3000 km, they told me 'This is normal...city driving...you must drive your car at highway occasionally...' Every week I have this ~80km highway ride, so their argument is a BS.
Last week, when I told them about my DPF regeneration and oil level rising, the answer was ' in that case, if it's all true what you are saying - you have a problem'... Well no way Mr. Sherlock Holms!!!
And procedure for my next Wednesday service visit, according to them is this:
-make diagnostics, what ever fault value is shown-they send it to Austria Mazda central, and then wait for suggestion what should be done?!? It could be 1-2 week for my car to stay at service...and price...who knows.
Then I asked them, ok... as far as I understand the issues with this diesel Mazda 'revolutionary diesel engine' we have 3 potential problems: DPF, EGR and Injectors? What you think, where is the problem? They told me that, probably there is a problem with injectors, but they will 'check everything'...

So, if I ever finish with this adventure, a will inform you.

Have you solved The problem with DPF? I have the same problem… after 3 months and 2000 km oil change 🤦🏼‍♀️

 

[Connie04]

I have changed The OIL, clean The dpf, reset dpf from ecu , after 100 km that DPF light still appears and my oil still rises. I have been to a service to ask to check my injectors. They said that they will not check them couse this kind of injectors cannot be repaired only to buy other. But the guy didn’t even looked at it. Is here anyone that checked their injectors?
could this be ( the lighting sensor) a problem from écu?

 

[Connie04]

Ok folks, it is time to put my experience on this DPF saga.
For people new to this thread, you can read my previous posts in here and what I went though with this stupid DFP regeneration system. I’ll summarize it in few words: I had DPF regen at about 80-90 km and dropping (to about 40km now) I started with cleaning up DPF on a machine, then changed injectors, then changed Differential pressure sensor, then new MAP sensor. Four times I was in Mazda dealership, and they claim all readings are just fine, but DPF keep regen at every 40 km. (regardless highway or inter-town roads, regardless driving style)

So, I had enough of this crap, and decided to go DPF OFF. I did this into respectable tuning shop that I used to delete DPFs of my previous cars – very happy with the service, and they claim they had DPF OFF mode for MX5s with same engine – Skyactiv-D 2.2.

The way it works, they physically remove DPF off the exhaust (leaving Catalytic converter and ALL sensors intact) then tweak ECU to read differential pressure 0.0 kPa all the time and DPF temperature 700 C. First thing that alarmed my was they asking “Why you want DPF OFF as your one looks new, and readings are excellent”
Here is my DPF taken out just before regen cycle:
View attachment 284830

Well, I explained I hate how Mazda ECU decide to regen completely unclogged DPF every 40 km and I don’t want to keep investigating this, it has been 1.5 years now. So I took my car and drove home, when I saw the damn DPF regeneration started again!! Freaked out! Got back to the shop, they connected it to diagnostics and confirm indeed regen just happened, which puzzled them even more as the Diff pressure keep reading 0 kPa and 700 C temp on the exhaust. The manager explained they had tenths of same engine Mazda’s DPF OFF and never seen this, so he asked me to leave the car for analysis.

3 days later, they called me and said – you can pick your car up, it will never regen anymore. So I asked what happened, and they said they worked with Mazda contacts they have in Australia to look up the issue and been told that Mazda Skyactiv-D engine will not only start DPF regen looking up diff. pressure and temp., but also looking up bunch of other sensors. Then they sent all live data from 3 days (that local shop collected) for analysis and Ausies could not see any abnormal readings at all, but they suggested that probably some sensor that appear to read “good” data is faulty and interrupts readings for short time and ECU picks that up and immediately get into regen cycle, so they suggested to Disable all sensors related to DPF.

So after that I did 2500 km and not a single regen happened. I also called the shop for feedback, and they said that it was probably bad wiring signal from one of the sensors that causing Regenerations all the time. They also suggested that IF I want to get DFP back ON, they can change all sensors (no idea how many of those) including wiring cables and it should be fine as my DPF looks just fine.

Conclusion: Mazda ECU enter regen cycle not only judging by diff pressure and temp, but bunch of other factors that Mazda dealers are completely unaware of.
Anyone that can figure out this nonsense regeneration should call Mazda and inform them

Do you know what sensors are related to the DPF? I am already tired of this Mazda problem, my oil keep rising with fuel in in, my yellow light DPF is on and I don’t know what to do more…

 

[Percy247]

I have been monitoring DPF regeneration intervals using forscan. Over the last 12 months the average mileage between regens has fallen from 135 miles to 85 miles. Car is a Mazda 2 (2016) 1.5 diesel than has done 73,000 miles. I have never seen a DPF warning light and have no DTCs but am worried that if the distances between regens keep falling then I will run into DPF problems in the next 12-18 months.

Has anyone managed to remove the inlet manifold and clean it and the engine ports? Did this improve things? Does anyone know whether you can test the EGR actuator in Forscan and if so how?

Has anyone managed to successfully increase the mileage between DPF regens and if how and did it work permanently or just temporarily. Did any of the following work?

1. clean both DPF sensors and pipework to the DPF
2. clean lambda sensor in the inlet manifold
3. adding dpf cleaner via the exhaust gas temp sensor port
4. adding manifold/EGR cleaner
5. getting the DPF professionally cleaned.
6. clean MAF/MAP sensors

 

[jamazda3]

I have been monitoring DPF regeneration intervals using forscan. Over the last 12 months the average mileage between regens has fallen from 135 miles to 85 miles. Car is a Mazda 2 (2016) 1.5 diesel than has done 73,000 miles. I have never seen a DPF warning light and have no DTCs but am worried that if the distances between regens keep falling then I will run into DPF problems in the next 12-18 months.

Has anyone managed to remove the inlet manifold and clean it and the engine ports? Did this improve things? Does anyone know whether you can test the EGR actuator in Forscan and if so how?

Has anyone managed to successfully increase the mileage between DPF regens and if how and did it work permanently or just temporarily. Did any of the following work?

1. clean both DPF sensors and pipework to the DPF
2. clean lambda sensor in the inlet manifold
3. adding dpf cleaner via the exhaust gas temp sensor port
4. adding manifold/EGR cleaner
5. getting the DPF professionally cleaned.
6. clean MAF/MAP sensors

I've been doing the same for my 3, which is also the 1.5d and has also just passed 73,000 miles as it happens. I've got ~38,750 miles worth of MPG & DPF regen interval data which I've been meaning to plot up. I'll get back to you at some point when I have more time - I've tried a few of the things in your 6 points

 

[mart4856]

I would be interested in seeing what DPF intervals you are currently experiencing. The only thing I forgot to mention was 7. Clean/replace glow plugs. The inlet manifold looks a lot harder to remove with the location of the coolant reservoir and built in intercooler than on the 2.2!

 

[jamazda3]

My DPF regen history:

Each block of points as highlighted by colour is continuous data; on occasion I didn't make a record for a short period for whatever reason (so after the first block of blue points the regen count will be off by some amount that I haven't worked out). I bought the car in March 2022 with around 34,605 miles at which point it had done 212 regenerations. Now it's on 73,551 miles with 628 regens (I have a long commute of 50+ miles each way including 35 miles of motorway!). I've never had any warning lights on the dash related to DPF issues nor any DTCs reported. The oil dilution as read by Forscan has been 0.0 g the entire time. The DPF differential pressure has always dropped to 0.0 or 'error' kPa at idle after every regen, which makes me think the DPF has no issues clearing itself (I assume the 'error' is due to the pressure difference being too low to be detected).

See comparison with MPG over a similar time period:

It's kinda frustrating that the car always over-estimates the MPG by anywhere from 15 - 22%!

On the two occasions that I've inspected the high pressure EGR valve and the intake manifold they've both had a lot of soot build-up, as had the inlet ports which I could just about see. The first time I cleaned the front side of the EGR valve and the EGR pipe to the manifold out but the soot returned within 10,000 miles or so. The soot was all dry apart from an oily patch in the top of the manifold. At some point I'd like to try a proper clean, i.e. manifold off, EGR valve off, inlet ports cleaned etc.

The one time I've cleaned the MAP sensor it was only a little oily. The intercooler core I could see through the hole to be clean. Doing so did not appear to make any difference to the regen intervals. I may clean the MAF sensor as well for good measure though I may leave it as they can be delicate. From when I've changed/cleaned the air filter it has only looked a little dusty.

You can test actuators/valves in Forscan: How to use Output Control mode in FORScan 2.2.* - FORScan forum though I haven't tried it myself for the EGR valves.

The only thing that I have found to consistently increase the regeneration interval other than driving very conservatively was adding half a bottle of Redex DPF cleaner to every tank (the 300 - 350 regen count period in the plot above, 65-70,000 miles in the MPG plot) which also noticeably increased the MPG. I stopped doing this as of late to see what the intervals might drop down to without it. Earlier in the year Toolstation were selling the stuff for £4.50 a bottle though it's now £6.99.

At some point I'll check the resistance of the glow plugs, it should be around 20 ohms to be in spec.

 

[mart4856]

My DPF regen history:

View attachment 291486

Each block of points as highlighted by colour is continuous data; on occasion I didn't make a record for a short period for whatever reason (so after the first block of blue points the regen count will be off by some amount that I haven't worked out). I bought the car in March 2022 with around 34,605 miles at which point it had done 212 regenerations. Now it's on 73,551 miles with 628 regens (I have a long commute of 50+ miles each way including 35 miles of motorway!). I've never had any warning lights on the dash related to DPF issues nor any DTCs reported. The oil dilution as read by Forscan has been 0.0 g the entire time. The DPF differential pressure has always dropped to 0.0 or 'error' kPa at idle after every regen, which makes me think the DPF has no issues clearing itself (I assume the 'error' is due to the pressure difference being too low to be detected).

See comparison with MPG over a similar time period:

View attachment 291487

It's kinda frustrating that the car always over-estimates the MPG by anywhere from 15 - 22%!

On the two occasions that I've inspected the high pressure EGR valve and the intake manifold they've both had a lot of soot build-up, as had the inlet ports which I could just about see. The first time I cleaned the front side of the EGR valve and the EGR pipe to the manifold out but the soot returned within 10,000 miles or so. The soot was all dry apart from an oily patch in the top of the manifold. At some point I'd like to try a proper clean, i.e. manifold off, EGR valve off, inlet ports cleaned etc.

The one time I've cleaned the MAP sensor it was only a little oily. The intercooler core I could see through the hole to be clean. Doing so did not appear to make any difference to the regen intervals. I may clean the MAF sensor as well for good measure though I may leave it as they can be delicate. From when I've changed/cleaned the air filter it has only looked a little dusty.

You can test actuators/valves in Forscan: How to use Output Control mode in FORScan 2.2.* - FORScan forum though I haven't tried it myself for the EGR valves.

The only thing that I have found to consistently increase the regeneration interval other than driving very conservatively was adding half a bottle of Redex DPF cleaner to every tank (the 300 - 350 regen count period in the plot above, 65-70,000 miles in the MPG plot) which also noticeably increased the MPG. I stopped doing this as of late to see what the intervals might drop down to without it. Earlier in the year Toolstation were selling the stuff for £4.50 a bottle though it's now £6.99.

At some point I'll check the resistance of the glow plugs, it should be around 20 ohms to be in spec.

Thanks for taking the time to post this very detailed information. Your regen data appears very similar to mine with a lifetime regen average distance of every 117 miles. In your ownership this appears to have fallen to every 73 miles.

You have done 39,000 miles in 18 months which is the perfect usage scenario for a diesel which should both minimise the number of failed regens and oil dilution. However, all the long journeys appear not to have improve the regen intervals?

Since last October I have done 6500 miles and the Oil life meter is down to 10% and the oil level is half way to the X. I have been using archoil diesel additive in every tank and redex every 3 months.

I have come to the conclusion that the Mazda DPF system is flawed and post the emissions fix in 2019 the software was altered to get the cars to regen more often to counter the excessive soot generation. An active regen in my VW Passat varies from every 250-300 miles.

I am torn between keeping our Mazda 2 as it costs zero road tax, £150/year to insure and averages 65mpg but I know its potentially a ticking time bomb. DPF off/remap or MX-5?

I did change the fuel filter last week and then got a regen interval of more than 100 miles but I doubt they are related.

I am of the opinion that maybe I am chasing rainbows trying to improve the regen intervals. I think I should just stop thinking about it and leave it alone!

 

[wins]

Bonjour,
j'ai une mazda 2 1.5 skyactiv-d. j'avais aussi des régénérations tous les 120-130km.j'ai nettoyé le collecteur d'admission et désactivé la vanne EGR électroniquement. société br performance à Paris.
maintenant la voiture fonctionne beaucoup mieux, l'huile reste propre, la voiture consomme moins et les régénérations se font tous les 400-450km. désolé je ne parle pas bien l'anglais.

 

[mart4856]

Bonjour,
j'ai une mazda 2 1.5 skyactiv-d. j'avais aussi des régénérations tous les 120-130km.j'ai nettoyé le collecteur d'admission et désactivé la vanne EGR électroniquement. société br performance à Paris.
maintenant la voiture fonctionne beaucoup mieux, l'huile reste propre, la voiture consomme moins et les régénérations se font tous les 400-450km. désolé je ne parle pas bien l'anglais.

Good morning,
I have a mazda 2 1.5 skyactiv-d. I also had regenerations every 120-130km. I cleaned the intake manifold and electronically disabled the EGR valve. br performance company in Paris.
now the car runs much better, the oil stays clean, the car consumes less fuel and regenerations are done every 400-450km. sorry i don't speak english well.

pour Les Anglais.....

 

[wins]

 

[Pashe]

Hi,

I have 2014 Mazda 6 2.2d and now driven 440000km with it. You can see some history about it from my previous posts.

On last year I suffered about short regen intervals and then I changed the exhaust pressure sensor and achieved good results for that, but that wasn't permanent effect.

On this summer my regen intervals went down to about 70-80km and because of that the consumption of diesel went to about 7l/100km.

I decided to try wash the DPF by myself without removing it. I somehow followed the instructions found from this discussion (used dishwash water, caustic soda, HCl acid etc). I can give detailed instructions if someone is interested.

The result was thar after the wash my regen intervals has been 330km, 290km, 270km, 330km, 310km and latest 370km. So I achieved huge improvement from 70-80km intervals. And the diesel consumption hasn't ever been this low being now about 5.2l/100km after the wash.

It could be that this won't last if there is something wrong for example with my injectors and that causes the blockage of my DPF, but so far I'm very happy.

I will report here if there will be a change in my regen intevals.

 

[Sternchallis]

Jamazda your mpg is quite impressive and you are driving long distances which is what Mazda designed the diesel for it would seem, but your regen intervals are a bit on the low side considering your driving pattern as I would expect 150 -200 mile intervals. Prior to you buying it the interval was 163 miles which is a decent average for an unknown driving pattern. So now we are down to 117 average.
Your oil dilution is hardly registering which means no partial regens and your daily hot runs burn off anything that appears in the sump.
To me it looks more like breathing (a build up of carbon) than overfueling (faulty injectors).
When my injectors failed and this was a gradual thing after the first year with yearly average mpg going down until 49/ 50k when the sump would rise, dilution into 3 figures, regens down to 30 miles and life regen average down to 70 miles, DPF code up on the dash eventually, yet the DPF was doing its job, but too frequently. The dealer replaced the DPF DP sensor on my dime but it came back, he hadn't a clue as he replaced it again on his dime thinking it was faulty, then it happened again, by which time he knew it couldn't be the sensor. He contacted Mazda EUr in Kent, who asked him to take a data download from my ECU, this didn't prove much, so he was asked to do another one but go deeper. Of course this was before and during Covid at which point I was doing a 500 mile round trip sat on 70 once a month or less. Mazda EUR tried to blame it on me not having a service at a Mazda dealership (horlicks), I was changing my oil myself, a service wouldn't have made any difference as they miss stuff. Then they said the bores and injectors were rusting due to trapped moisture during Covid which we named Covid Rust (more Horlicks).
My SM asked the Engineer at Mazda EUr a question and he said you could tell from the tone of his voice that he was having to toe the party line not supply the correct answer. Eventually they asked for photographs of the injector nozzle tips showing the holes, which appeared to have had enlarged. This was due to cavitation erosion caused by the high injection pressures (300 bar) wearing the holes due to a bad batch of injectors from Denso a Japanese parts company partly or wholly owned by Toyota. Several other manufacturers fitted Denso injectors, Vauxhaul for one but they could have been a different model of injector .
The outcome eventually after a lot of letters from me to Mazda EUr was a new set of injectors with about a 30% discount on parts and labour ( the labour being a small part of the cost).
Fuel consumption on the same run went from 40 mpg to 65mpg and regen frequency from 30 miles to close to 200.
Since Covid I am not doing the long distance journeys so regens I noticed were increasing.
It would seem that Mazda is not as generous with replacing their failed parts under warranty and try and put people off until its outside the warranty period, this all came about towards the end of Covid as they made a so called 'loss' as people weren't driving so no servicing and repairs. The only reason we are in an inflationary period now is that companies are upping prices to replace the profits they lost during Covid.
I always say, "What you haven't had you haven't missed".

 

[Pashe]

Hi,
Do someone know if you could check the condition of your injectors by FI_LRN values of Forscan? This value is about injector learning values or something like that.

I attached some of these values here from my car.

 

[Sternchallis]

Pashe,
Yes I know of those figures and believe the dealers sometimes use them , but don't know the science behind them and I am not sure if they do.
The best way is to have the injectors out and put in a test rig (very specialist) . You can observe the spray pattern behind glass, check to see if they are dripping and see what pressures they fire at and are they all the same. Increase fuel flow through the range and take figures.
I have a bit of experience of the other type of injectors but none on common rail, though I did come across common rail back in 1974 on a ship that was built in 1952 and the system predated that. Things have moved on a long way from then. Solenoid operated injectors were around on ships in the late 1980's and then the auto industry cottoned onto them. Urea injection ( Adblue) came from ships systems. They also had exhaust gas scrubbers using water. Not an option on a car.

 

[jamazda3]

Thanks for taking the time to post this very detailed information. Your regen data appears very similar to mine with a lifetime regen average distance of every 117 miles. In your ownership this appears to have fallen to every 73 miles.

You have done 39,000 miles in 18 months which is the perfect usage scenario for a diesel which should both minimise the number of failed regens and oil dilution. However, all the long journeys appear not to have improve the regen intervals?

Since last October I have done 6500 miles and the Oil life meter is down to 10% and the oil level is half way to the X. I have been using archoil diesel additive in every tank and redex every 3 months.

I have come to the conclusion that the Mazda DPF system is flawed and post the emissions fix in 2019 the software was altered to get the cars to regen more often to counter the excessive soot generation. An active regen in my VW Passat varies from every 250-300 miles.

I am torn between keeping our Mazda 2 as it costs zero road tax, £150/year to insure and averages 65mpg but I know its potentially a ticking time bomb. DPF off/remap or MX-5?

I did change the fuel filter last week and then got a regen interval of more than 100 miles but I doubt they are related.

I am of the opinion that maybe I am chasing rainbows trying to improve the regen intervals. I think I should just stop thinking about it and leave it alone!

I also changed my fuel filter recently, but it made no appreciable difference to the regen intervals. It was well due though, the filter core/element(?) was entirely brown and there was lots of gunk (rust I assume) in the bottom. The diesel that I poured out of the tank side was filthy! (Though the diesel coming out the other side looked perfectly clean). I filled the new filter with Liqui Moly diesel purge before refitting for good measure The car drove noticeably better after that.

And yes, maybe I should stop worrying about it given that I still get good mpg but it bugs me and I want to understand why.

Jamazda your mpg is quite impressive and you are driving long distances which is what Mazda designed the diesel for it would seem, but your regen intervals are a bit on the low side considering your driving pattern as I would expect 150 -200 mile intervals. Prior to you buying it the interval was 163 miles which is a decent average for an unknown driving pattern. So now we are down to 117 average.
Your oil dilution is hardly registering which means no partial regens and your daily hot runs burn off anything that appears in the sump.
To me it looks more like breathing (a build up of carbon) than overfueling (faulty injectors).
When my injectors failed and this was a gradual thing after the first year with yearly average mpg going down until 49/ 50k when the sump would rise, dilution into 3 figures, regens down to 30 miles and life regen average down to 70 miles, DPF code up on the dash eventually, yet the DPF was doing its job, but too frequently. The dealer replaced the DPF DP sensor on my dime but it came back, he hadn't a clue as he replaced it again on his dime thinking it was faulty, then it happened again, by which time he knew it couldn't be the sensor. He contacted Mazda EUr in Kent, who asked him to take a data download from my ECU, this didn't prove much, so he was asked to do another one but go deeper. Of course this was before and during Covid at which point I was doing a 500 mile round trip sat on 70 once a month or less. Mazda EUR tried to blame it on me not having a service at a Mazda dealership (horlicks), I was changing my oil myself, a service wouldn't have made any difference as they miss stuff. Then they said the bores and injectors were rusting due to trapped moisture during Covid which we named Covid Rust (more Horlicks).
My SM asked the Engineer at Mazda EUr a question and he said you could tell from the tone of his voice that he was having to toe the party line not supply the correct answer. Eventually they asked for photographs of the injector nozzle tips showing the holes, which appeared to have had enlarged. This was due to cavitation erosion caused by the high injection pressures (300 bar) wearing the holes due to a bad batch of injectors from Denso a Japanese parts company partly or wholly owned by Toyota. Several other manufacturers fitted Denso injectors, Vauxhaul for one but they could have been a different model of injector .
The outcome eventually after a lot of letters from me to Mazda EUr was a new set of injectors with about a 30% discount on parts and labour ( the labour being a small part of the cost).
Fuel consumption on the same run went from 40 mpg to 65mpg and regen frequency from 30 miles to close to 200.
Since Covid I am not doing the long distance journeys so regens I noticed were increasing.
It would seem that Mazda is not as generous with replacing their failed parts under warranty and try and put people off until its outside the warranty period, this all came about towards the end of Covid as they made a so called 'loss' as people weren't driving so no servicing and repairs. The only reason we are in an inflationary period now is that companies are upping prices to replace the profits they lost during Covid.
I always say, "What you haven't had you haven't missed".

I very much hope it's a build-up issue and not an injector issue! At least in that case I might be able to improve things myself with a good dismantle and clean.

In the two years prior to me owning the car it only travelled 3,234 & 3,515 miles respectively which I imagine wouldn't have been good for the engine from I assume, a lots of short journeys point of view. Perhaps why the previous owner offloaded it to Cazoo...

.

Not long after acquiring the car I had an inkling that the regens were more frequent running on standard fuel. Since then I've almost exclusively run the car on Gulf Endurance diesel (from the same local garage and mostly the same pump). For the last few refills I've put in bog-standard diesel to see if I could confirm this and the regen intervals have tanked... I might continue another week of this and see how bad things get. The eagle-eyed among you may notice that a lot of the data points in this new plot have moved a bit; I realised that before I was plotting each set of new readings in the wrong order (newest-to-oldest, not oldest-to-newest), so I've fixed that

Also, with the standard diesel there's a noticeable repetitive hesitation/lumpiness on acceleration between 1250 - 2000 rpm or so, most noticeable in 2nd gear. Hmmm...

 

[Sternchallis]

It just shows what that fuel filter holds back and what some people are running on when they run on empty most of the time. It may not affect the regens, but will certainly prevent wear particles entering the hp pump and injectors.
Somebody on another UK forum was charged £900 by a dealer to change his fuel filter, they only cost about £30, maybe a little more for a Mazda one. Its not a bad job changing it is it, but could have put it in a more accessible place.
I wouldn't start dismantling your injectors unless you are trained to do that. They have to be dismantled in a very clean atmosphere and your normal garage is not. The parts are small and there is a tiny ball bearing say 2 mm dia, loose that and you scrap the injector. If you are anywhere near Feather Diesel Services Diesel Pump & Fuel Injector specialists at Halifax England, let them check them, they are set up for it and that's all they do, fuel injectors and fuel pumps.
When I had mine replaced , I asked for the old ones and took one apart, just for curiosity and yes they ar fiddley.
Feathers with clean the nozzle ends then put them in a machine and test them under various flow rates, checking the spray pattern and logging figures for each one. They will tell you if there is anything wrong and will do a complete rebuild of all components at a price of course.
If your fuel consumption is good, no DPF codes like

and your doing a lot of long distance runs, see how it goes for now.
This sensor produces that code.

If you have too many regens in a certain distance.
If you unclip it from the pipes and run the engine you can feel the exhaust pressure 'before' and 'after' the DPF, to check to see if the pipes are blocked. Obviously the After will have less pressure.
I did read on this or its sister M6 forum where somebody cleaned his DPF in situ but didn't go into detail. But I think he removed one of the sensors attached to the dpf near the top and blanked off the exhaust pipe and then filled it with thick soapy water and left over night. Rinsed out the next day. But I have always said , treat the cause, not the effect.

Check your MAP sensor for carbon, if its bad then the inlet manifold, EGR cooler and EGR could be choked. Give the sensor a clean with carb cleaner and a tooth brush, see how that goes.
With your graph I would tend to measure regen frequency vertical scale against odometer reading on the horizontal
scale. Time or a derivitive is always on the horizontal.
You can also add Oil dilution against the same baseline but on the right hand side vertical axis. If you can put a third vertical axis make it mpg that will give you a good picture of whats happening on one graph.

Going through the 'mid life crisis' as it were.
Good images by the way. A picture paints a thousand words (as the song goes)

 

[Percy247]

Personally, I would change the fuel filter every 2 years, rather than the 3 years recommended by Mazda. They also recommend draining any water out of the bottom of the filter annually and resetting the drain interval in Forscan or the Mazda diagnostic system. I don’t know how many people do this?

£900 is a disgrace to change a fuel filter when it’s already included in the cost of a major service! It’s a £20 non Mazda part and an hours labour at the most.

How much does an injector specialist like feathers charge for bench testing of injectors and refitting? The are only about 1.5 hours drive from where I live. Has anyone had the inlet manifold and engine ports cleaned on the 1.5 and if so how much did that cost? Just looking at options for the future.

 

[Sternchallis]

I don't think the filter can be drained automatically, its a screwed drain, but the wire is the water sensor. Cannot say I have seen anything about a drain interval in Fòrscan but will have another look. No nothing there.
You will need to remove the battery and put a small container under the drain otherwise it drains all over.
The fuel filter change interval depends on mileage rather than time like most things. They are assuming people drive 12k per year.
I have not used Feathers, but give them a call for a price.

To quote the poster from the other site
[Recently spent another £900 on having the oil strainer replaced which came from the message
"System management system requires inspection" It has an approved dealer FSH up to today]
Which is a bit of a generic message as a few are. He'd already spent £900 on turbo and camshaft.
The m6/m3 are a good cars when going well but are beset with a few expensive maladies which the dealers don't know much about due to poor training and a reliance on trouble shooting charts on their system that are not equipped for the faults that come up, or info is held back from the dealers. There is also poor manufacturing and QA on parts most of which are made in China who are known for shortcuts.

 

[Percy247]

I don't think the filter can be drained automatically, its a screwed drain, but the wire is the water sensor. Cannot say I have seen anything about a drain interval in Fòrscan but will have another look. No nothing there.
You will need to remove the battery and put a small container under the drain.
The fuel filter change interval depends on mileage rather than time like most things. They are assuming people drive 12k per year.
I have not used Feathers, but give them a call for a price.

Might be slightly different on Mazda 2 & CX-3 as fuel filter is underneath the car next to the fuel tank and is a bitch to change. Definitely seen documentation about draining every 12 months and there was a service option on Forscan lite app to reset drain interval. I think if you get too much water in the filter, the sensor picks this up and the orange spanner starts flashing on the instrument cluster.