Guys who had injectors replaced on their Mazda cars, can you tell me how is the current situation with the car, have you had any problems since replacement?
Any information is welcome!

Thank you! 🥳

 

Guys who had injectors replaced on their Mazda cars, can you tell me how is the current situation with the car, have you had any problems since replacement?
Any information is welcome!

Thank you! 🥳

I had my injectors replaced on my m6, same engine as the m3 2.2d.
On a 250 mile run at 70 mph I achieved 65mpg with one regen, prior with worn injector nozzles I was getting 35-40 on the same run, so lots of improvement.
I took on a run last weekend of 270 mile or so mainly on motorways at 70 mph and averaged 55mpg.
In the summer it will increase slightly. They were changed 3 years ago.
Keep good check on regen frequency, oil dilution and mpg. You will be surprised at the improvement.
I have seen Denso injectors cheaper than I paid for Madza branded ones, same injector as Denso make them but you pay extra for the 2 year warranty, and Mazda greed but they are not going to fail in 2 years.
These cars don't like a diet of town driving.

If you need to see the cause of thecproblem, the tips need cleaning up and the nozzle holes photographed with a macro lens on a DSLR on a tripod, then expanded. A phone camera is no good.

 

This forum has helped me a lot to be sure that injectors were the culprit with my 2017 1.5D.

Replaced all four injectors after 2 years of driving with the constant fear. I asked for old injectors and hoping some will be of use in future.

Regen interval has increased drastically. Yet to see the difference with more time.

How can you know if they are bad or good by looking? are those stain sign of being bad?

 

Your right there Fred.

 

Hello, i had similar problem on my Mazda 3 2017 1.5 Skyactiv-d with 64000Km, regeneration every 20km, that was very anoying. At first mazda reseller think that was the differential pressure problem, mazda chnage the sensor but after 30km DPF light blinking again, so go back to mazda reseller and after more test, Mazda said to me that the problem are in the injectors, they provide to much gas and that make the car regenerating constantly. After changing the injectors, the problem was solved but 2700€ of repair. But now everything is oK, regeneration are every 280Km or more depending of trip.

 

Fred,

Yes that's a hard one to swallow, I got the impression that the 1.5d didn't suffer from that problem as I understand it was a batch problem with the Denso 2.2d injectors, but obviously not.

Now do other makes of modern diesel cars ( 2013- on) suffer from failing injectors as much as Mazda?

You would expect somebody buying the Mazda 2 1.5d they would be using it for more town driving rather than long distance as Mazda expects the M6 2.2d to be driven.

Yet prior to the Skyactive's people bought cars to suit their pocket and size of family and we were encouraged to buy a diesel as it produced less C02 than petrol and you were 'saving the world'.

Then they come out with his particulate matter, surely petrol has particulate matter, and NOx. The atmosphere is 60% Nitrogen anyway, so its a bit oxydised, but does this affect the ozone layer, no but methane does, worse than CO2 and were does methane come from, the sour gasses they burn off when drilling for oil and coal mining.
So we won't drill for oil or mine coal, see how long that lasts.

What are most people clothes and shoes, interior of cars, mobile devices, interior of trains and busses, perhaps 50% of everyday items - PLASTIC, and were does plastic come from, oil and coal? Then you need coal to produce steel.

But motorists are the cash cow that just keep on coming.

Are we going to ground all aircraft due to the pollution the cause. No, so why ban cars? Look how much energy it takes to smelt Aluminium ore.

If they forget the NOx, increase the compression ratio, the economy would increase, thus producing less 'pollutants', adding Adblue and perhaps something else might reduce NOx.
You have a DPF which collects carbon, so every so often you have a regen and what comes out the tail pipe but more carbon.

Was it not Einstien who said, 'Matter cannot be created nor destroyed', so what goes in must come out, its still carbon in another form.

A higher compression engine is working at a higher temperature so could be burning some of this carbon without storing it up. Thermal Efficiency is propotrional compression ratio which equates to a hotter engine.
In the past designers have been limited limited by material characteristics, and lubrication, heat removal, but I am sure by now some of these have been overcome to produce a more efficient engine was it not for the Green lobby that still drive cars and don't live in caves with no heat and survive on a plant based diet producing more methane than somebody on a meat diet.

The multinationals tell the governments what they have to do, nothing about Democracy, but absentee dictators.

 

Marcy,

You might want to look at Forscan Software, you can use via wifi, Bluetooth or hardwired to a laptop. There is the Lite or the Full Blown version.

General and Support forum - FORScan forum

The Lite gives all the Fault codes, certain service procedures and is quite cheap, I paid €4 in 2017. Its good for Mazda's( up to 2020) and Fords.

Round the town running are the bane of the 2.2d engines, regardlessod servicing as the servicing is filters and fluids.

 

We've opened the whole admission up from one end to the dpf, taken everything out and cleaning it all up. It was very cloggled up, the only thing that we still havent cleaned is the MAP sensor. I never lost power or anything, dispite the regens every 20km that turns off after like 5minutes, started running so much better after cleaning it. The car belonged to my brother before me so Im aware of its background history and know its maintenance has been properly done.
Its a 2018 1.5 CX3... we had a 2016 version coming in the shop a couple of years ago and so I know first hand about the injectors issues with that version.
Also, my DPF light turned on after around three weeks of the regen problem started and I replaced it with a new one. That changed something, before the new one it was doing the regen every single time I started the car, as soon I drove out of the garage and would stay on for around 20min. Honestly only when this regen issue started with mine did the oil level raise to the X and we were forced to change it.
Because we have the repair shop ourselves we have managed to test a lot, if there is something up with a preasure sensor it isnt from being dirty (Ive seen a faulty one on a VW a while back but the behaviour was different from whats going on with mine)...
Because our diagnosis system here at the shop doesn’t work 100% on mazda, Im really praying the dealer will be able to see something Im missing. I really love this car, also own a Mazda 3 2008 best car Ive ever had, but well, the CX3 is just crazy in programing in comparisson obviously.

(Portugal yes)

 

Marcy,

If your injectors have been proven in good order, that does seem strange. MAP sensor if choked with carbon is a indication the inlet manifold is.
Have you proved the DPF DP pipes ar clear? The single one, the Exh Press no.1 can get blocked as it goes through a banjo and bolt on the dpf, so the hole in the bolt is suspect, but the pressure is highest there so easy to check. The bad one is the 'after' DPF, pressure is hard to feel even when revved with the sensor removed, but pour some water and washing up liquid down those pipes, if it flows away then its clear,but testing the electrical output to the sensor might take a bit more fiddling. All Mazda do is fit a new one, they should have a rig to test these things but they don't. Replacing a sensor doesn't prove itsa faulty sensor as they probably carry out a forced regen and an injector learn, which clouds the issue for a little longer.

I very much doubt its the battery thats caused the problem, but carrying out relearns to everything may help. Very often disconnecting the battery cures some problems. Bit like an Alt/ Cntrl/ Del in the computer world.

What engine and year is the car?
I assume that's the Portugease flag you are showing?

 

If you remove the no.1 Exhaust pressure sensor and or the High pressure side of the DP sensor No. 2, you can add these chemicals via these tubes.

If you run the engine with this removed, you will pick up the hp side, this is the one before the dpf so putting a cleaning chemical down and leaving overnight to let its do its thing.
The single gas sensor goes to the same place and needs to b proven clear by removing the sensor and running the engine. You will know if its clear or blocked, but a drop of washing up,liquid down them all won't harm. The single one attaches via a banjo so you have small holes that might block.
The nozzle from a latex tube being tapered works quite well and as they are clear you can see the liquid and its speed going down. Start Friday night pour plenty down, leave over night, then do the same Saturday giving it a few hours to soak, rinse through with fresh water and start again.

If you have a bottle with a pump and hose connect that up.

I found that the low pressure side possibly got blocked with carbon and started throwing the code.

The other possibility is blocked intake manifold and Throttle valve if you do a lot of town driving or have a lot of miles on it. You can remove both the EGR valves and EGR cooler quite easy and clean those . Just fill the cooler with rich soapy water and leave a few hours. Rinse through with garden hose until it runs clear.

 

Zdarova, no you shouldn't need to change it. It depends how diluted it is in the first place, a forced regen is no different to a regen the ecu does in the normal way when you are running.

A rough guide on oil dilution is the level of the oil cold.
Fresh oil should be between the min mark and the full mark on the dipstick and when changing oil and filter, 5.1 litres, no more, unlike a petrol when it would be up to the full mark one would assume, but I stand to be corrected on M6 petrols.

The X is absolute maximum level and the oil and filter should be changed pronto, that week. If youbare checking oil levels cold weekly you may or may not see the level rise week to week depending on the type of driving, summer /winter, any fuel injector problems.

Between the 5.1 litre mark and X is about a litre of diesel. The C3 grade of oil is so formulated to withstand this level of contamination. You can feel it in the oil.

When I was doing a lot of long distance driving particularly in the summer I found the oil contamination figure from Forscan would decrease after a hot run and reduced to zero from single figures or teens.
If you haven't got Forscan Lite software then its a good investment for a Ford or Mazda driver.
It gives you all the readings that the dealer can take, such as dilution, DP of DPF , number of total number of regens and miles since last regen and a lot more than I assume the generic code reading software does.

The term 'Forced' means you have initiated the regen, not the ecu. It will be no different. The main thing is the engine nice and hot, not just left on tick over until the blue light goes off, which only means the coolant is up to temperature not the oil and the rest of the engine. Give it an Italian tune up, you will understand being Italian, ie drive like the Mafioso is after you.
Arrivederci

 

Hi Sternchallis, I thought the same as you 3 years ago, but after learning more about this SkyActiv-D engine, I found (don't have the documentation link now) that when you perform a Manual Regeneration (forced), that takes around 1 hour, by procedure you have to change the oil.
If I remember well, when you do the Force Reg (ie from Forscan app or other tool), the Oil Diluted PID will go to +100 grams. Note that in average, for a Automatic Reg it will increase by 2-3 grams and then will decrease by 2-3 grams after 60-70 km. Therefore a Forced reg it's equivalent with 10k km dilution (considering an avg of 200 km per reg)!
If you ask on other people experts on this engine (also on ForScan forum), they all will tell you that you need to change the oil in order to avoid issues with the oil pump and oil presure.

 

Unless you stop and do a forced regeneration, which you need Forscan software, and OBD adaptor and a bit of wire and know what you are doing to do.

I would agree they are nice cars but for a few engine problems, coking up and faulty injectors. Far better than any of Mazdas replacements.

Would that be the Finnish flag you are flying or Greek?

 

After you do a forced reg, that last 1+ hour, you need to change your oil as will be very diluted

 

If Mazda oil (really Elf) is cheaper than Castrol and is the correct specification ie C2/C3 and correct viscosity then use it. This not the case in Britain. I think Castrol is specifiedin USA. The best thing to do is to go onto an oil manufacturers website, Car oil section, type in your registration and that manufacture will recommend the oils (may be more than one) that is suitable for your car. I would tend not to mix manufacturers unless you are desperate and cannot find the same oil that you have in the sump if away for instance, but that shouldn't happen if you are checking the oil weekly but in heavy dring conditions like a holiday, daily. It doesn't take long to check your oil each morning before you start the car. Its better to be safe that sorry. A litre of oil is cheaper than a new engine as is a few minutes to check the car over including tyre pressures. A hard tyre runs cooler and faster.

 

After browsing the forums for many hours, I notice that here is the most knowledge about the soul of Mazda's DPF.

The DPF and its regeneration is the only thing I don't like in my car. Because very often the situation is: I have driven 25-200 km to my home and when there is 1 km left, there is a final acceleration from 0-80 km/h. And then the regeneration starts and I have to drive another 20km even though I could drive straight home.

So the question would be, is there any way to tell the car that NOW would be a good time to do the regeneration while driving?

Since I know that the interval is about 280-310km, depending on the driving, I could tell the car to start regeneration when there is still some distance left and the engine is warm enough, but not during the last acceleration!

Otherwise, I have liked the car and the 2,2 diesel engine very much!

 

In Italy I the Mazd 0w30 Supra is cheaper (49 euro for 5L) than the castrol or xperience 0w30...

 

In Greece for Mazda supra 0w 30... I pay 22€ 1 lit in official Mazda ... For Switzerland motorex oil... They are not adulterated and their quality is the best.... I am thinking of 4 liters of 0w 30 and 1 liter of 5w 30 mixed..

 

Christian,

You would be surprised how many drivers never check their oil, or if they do, they check it hot, holding the dipstick so it runs up the dipstick.
Despite what Mazda says, its been common practice since cars were invented to check the oil when cold as when you change your oil its cold so any change in the level from that point is a hint that something is going wrong.
Some of the logic that Mazda uses is against common practice due to the fact they are doing a cover up.

You often see the question asked, "What oil should I use?"
Those of you beyond a certain age will remember in the owners manual (which was usally thinner, but contained more usefull information in it than present tomes) the list of different manufacturers oils and greases and the specific one for the car in each make of oil. Not this dictatorial Mazda Oil, which iscnot madecby Mazda, but by a company in each major geographical area. In Europe its made by the Frogs, Total/Elf. In the US I believe they recommend Castrol.
Yet when I questioned Mazda EUR on using Castrol here, they directed me to Mazda Oil because they get their bounce on that. My dealer realised Mazda/Elf oil was too expensive and uses Castrol.
If you want to use a specific brand, go onto the oil manufactures website and navigate to the are you type in your reg, or make/model/ year/engine and it will give you their specific oil that is suitable for your car.
Though I would tend to stay clear of shop brands and obscure oil makes, like Halfrauds/ Commer/ Sears etc.

 

Τe best oil is motorex experience 0w 30...

 

Injectors went on mine as well. Didn’t have any codes, but it’s odd your oil level isn’t going up. Mine was regenerating every 40/60 miles which went up to around 200 after the change, no codes. Because it was regenerating so much I was often stopping it mid regen and oil levels went up. I didn’t go to main dealer and got it done for about 1.9k.

 

You mean you did a new program in the car computer with dpf OFF etc.... If so... and it gives you regenerations by raising the oil level... The programmer has made a mistake.... I have also heard from others that the programmers didn't make it.... He wants you to find the right expert to make your car normal.... Also there is a possibility that the programmer will manage not to do regenerations and the oil level will go up... Probably to blame the injector that is corrupted on the edge, and doesn't spray properly... I personally haven't heard of this as a script... If the developer does it right... The injectors even modified on the edge from the regens... won't upload the oil level...

 

Papajim, Never use a nyloc washer/gasket/splitter/nut once removed, always use new ones, they are consumable.
Also, do not drain the EGR or remove the DPF.
If you can't afford to service the car properly, buy something that you can. If an injector needs changing then they all do as they are all worn to the same extent.

😟 They live and breathe among us.😟

I won't argue with you.... If the injectors are working fine, the catalytic converter is doing the job correctly... Unfortunately it is a last resort.... Also why do they put dpf on tractors?.. 🤔🤔....there are much worse like... not having a mobile phone because of 5G for radiation....not watching TV because of bad programs... Not drinking soft drinks... And many many more. .. Of course it's a personal choice.... The best thing would be to compel the companies to correct the factory errors without burdening the owners with such large sums as buying injectors, changing or cleaning dpf... Why should I pay extra money without my own my mistake?..

 

Yes I suppose a tractor usage is worse than a car, more idling, short journeys, but do tractors have the same problems as we do? Do other modern diesel cars have the same problems? Perhaps not because somebody else makes the injectors I did read that Vauxhauls in Europe use the same injector or at least Denso injectors if not the same part number.

Unfortunately its the way of the world the large conglomerates screw the little people for pure profit and greed.

You just have to hope that your Service Manager at your Mazda dealership will fight your case and secure a better deal, when after all its a latent manufacturing defect that only comes out after the warranty period has finished.

Mazda Eur tried to say it was because my car wasn't serviced by my dealer every time.

Considering a service is only a fluid and filter change which has no bearing on the problem and that for the mileage it had more oil changes than required. Then they claim it was low mileage, as I am retired the car stays in my garage most days and most of the mileage pre Covid was trips over an hour on motorways.

No, they were pulling at straws to wriggle out of paying a contribution towards the cost and admitting a problem, in the end I paid 2/3 full retail cost, still a large sum for for the younger generation living on credit.

 

Ivan, you have it, it opened for me off your post.
What you are looking at is not a tutorial, but the screen that Mazda Mechanics use to troubleshoot any problem as long as a code comes up. If there is no code they claim thereis nothing wrong with the car, despite itvsounding like a bag of hammers, slow accelleration, or lumpy accelleration or poor fuel consumption due to excessive DPF Regens, which is what this one is about. The reason for excessive regens is poor atomisation of the fuel due to badly worn fuel injector nozzle holes.
I understand from my SM, an extra page came out as listed here suggesting the injectors are tested for spray patterns,flow and pressure. This would have to be done by a fuel injection specialist as Mazda Dealers do not have the specialised equipment nor do they have the training, in fact Mazda Mechanics as with most dealer mechanics are 'new part fitters', they cannot repair anything due to the lack of skills and technical training. Without a laptop to plug in they would be lost. They cannot interpret data, ie fuel consumption, Regen frequency or lube oil contamination pattern, which is all you need to diagnose faulty injectors, not a laptop.

When it comes to Hybrids or EV's they have to,relay everything to the country Mazda HQ and they pass it up the line to Japan. Their training and know how is non existant and SM's is on par.
They are having a lot of electrical problems with both those types of cars or should I say trucks with carpets.

 

The best solution is new injector....with dpf off egr off if you want (is better) .. If you can t pay for new injector... Check the injectors, the results is important, put new copper washer seal heating them or better new aluminum without heating, dpf off egr off.... Make sure the developer has done the program successfully before, it's not that simple... Then you will live with best car ever...

 

Papajim, Never use a sealing washer/gasket/ split pin/ nyloc nut once removed, always use new, they are consumables.
Furthermore do not blank the EGR or remove the DPF.
If you cannot afford to run the car correctly then buy something you can. If one injector needs changing, then they all do as they are all worn to the same extent.

😟 They live and breathe among us.😟

 

No.11 is a new one, following the failure of many engines to this Code, namely fuel injector nozzles subject to Cavitation Erosion, if not changed could result in nozzle tips falling off dues to the holes in the nozzle joining up.
Mazda is very reluctant to pay anything towards this considering a its a manufacturing defect of Denso's the injector manufacturers, who were partly owned by Toyota and other Japanese car manufacturers.

 

This is the best help I can offer for that dtc

 

Can I have a link to this tutorial. Тhank you

 

problem without a solution

Exhaust Pressure sensor

Hi all looking for some guidance please : 2014 Mazda CX-5 Skyactiv 2.2 Diesel : Reg YG63 CYA : Vin KMZEF91600161826 : Scan Tool Launch x413 Pro Mini : fault code P243C:00-2F, Particulate Filter regeneration Frequency Bank 2 : Drives ok no limp mode. Live Data pid of concern is exhaust pressure...

www.simplydiag.net

Mazda CX-5 2.2 SkyActiv-D - DPF filling fast - Page 28 - FORScan forum

 

Nothing wrong with the DPF, its doing its job. You need new injectors, its a known fault. It is not a problem without a solution, but a problem with a solution.
That code means it has carried out too many regens in a certain mileage and flags it up, but dealers didn't know the answer a few years ago and if they don't keep up with their technical reading from the country Mazda HQ they may not know the answer now.

 

After reading all this written I came to the conclusion that no one has managed to solve the problem.
My problem is similar.
I am the owner of a Mazda 3 1.5 diesel for 2 and a half months, the car is driven mainly on the highway every day, 2x 20 km or 2x 28 km and during this time it only turned on the error P243C once, while on longer trips over 150 km (driven twice ) always turns on the same error p 43C. During that time, the car is running quite normally, except for the last time, when it was driving at a constant speed of 145 km/h, it simply did not want to accelerate any more. This lasted for 5-10 seconds and the car behaved quite normally after that.
The fuel consumption is high considering the data from the on-board computer and also when compared to the Mercedes GLA 200 D with 7 DTC (DSG) gearbox. Let me emphasize that the transmission ratios in the last gear are the same, ie 130 km/h is at 2250 rpm. Mercedes is a taller, larger car with more weight and bigger tires and a 50% bigger engine, and it would be logical that it consumes more fuel compared to the lighter and lower Mazda.
During all this time, the oil level in the engine has not changed. It's the same all the time and about 4000 km have been driven.
Most likely on Monday I will physically remove the DPF and close the EGR.
If someone has a better solution, please write. Thank you all.

 

Mart, the 2.2d is known for heavy carbon in the inlet manifold due to a lot of town driving which causes the EGR to be open more, so the 1.5d I don't suppose is any different.
Following VWgate in 2018 Mazda increased the amount of time the EGR was open to lower combustion temperatures which in turn reduced NOx.
Diesels produce less CO2 than petrol but produce NOx which they claim is bad for the lungs.
What battery powered cars are bad for we have yet to see ( but not in my lifetime).

 

I removed and cleaned this sensor from the inlet manifold of the 1.5D engine. It’s directly beneath the silver horizontal pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold. It was filthy and covered in mixture of oil and soot. Is this the upstream Lambda/O2 sensor? What issues could be caused by it being so dirty?

 

That's the 'Intake air temperature (IAT) Sensor No. 2'

 

Checking the injectors is not something you can do yourself and doubt if a Mazda dealer can, but a Bosch Fuel Injection agency can.

 

hi, Anyone with idea why mine Mazda 3 2.2 Skyactiv-D is regenerating DFP every 130-140 km. I'm driving mostly extra urban ~100 km/h. Another thing I noticed is increased fuel consumption alongside (without regen happening) 90 km/h Cruise control - ~6L/100km 120 km/h Cruise control - ~8L/100km So far I did replaced MAF, all filters, Vacuum Pump, and cleaned carbon from intake (all done by Mazda official service) and I still get high fuel consumption and DPF regen in short periods. Help is much appreciated. Thanks

hello, you should also check the injectors.