Welcome aboard! This thread has a bunch of good suggestions on how to mod the MS3:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9289

Seem like you have the basics covered and the next things to get would be an upgraded HPFP and a Cobb AP. The AP alone will help free up some horses with their Off the Shelf Stage 1 map.


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What do you consider cheap?
As said above. Cobb AP
Best mod you can get right now..
But you should know.
Little $ = Little hp gain
BIG $ = BIG hp gain

Laws of physics right there... ^^

 

i would get a rear motor mount too... put more of that power to the ground. the stock mount is junk!

 

Throughout the next 4-6 months, I wanna lay down about 1,500-2,000 in mods? Does anyone have any prices or websites? I'm lost as far as what more to do.


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I got my parts from these sites:

Crossover Auto
http://www.crossoverauto.com/crossovershop/

Edge Autosport
http://www.edgeautosport.com/

Corksport
http://www.corksport.com/

James Baron Racing
http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com


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With $2000 you could easily do, AP, HPFP internals, test pipe, TMIC, spark plugs and start running Stage 2 maps.


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Any suggestions for company of HPFP?


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Also, do I just need the internals or the external as well?


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People like Autotech internals. I went with the CP-e full HPFP replacement. I bought it from Edge Autosport.

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9508


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People like Autotech internals. I went with the CP-e full HPFP replacement. I bought it from Edge Autosport.

hpfp - 2012 Mazda 3/Mazdaspeed 3 Forums


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This is why you shoould be the mazdaspeed mod

But anyways..

Go BIG TTURBO!

 

Haha thanks Velez, but yeah Big Taarbooo.


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Here's what I have thought out. Any other suggestions?

5. Cobb Tuning AP $595- http://www.cobbtuning.com/MAZDASPEED-AccessPORT-p/ap-maz-002.htm

4. Stainless steel test pipe $165- http://www.streetunit.com/MS3_Test_Pipe_p/sums3sstp.htm

7. CPE Engine Mount $179.55- http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=4300

8. VFr GReddy Oil Catch Can $199.95- http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=4179

9. Cobb tuning FMIC $1,095- http://www.cobbtuning.com/MAZDASPEED3-Front-Mount-Intercooler-p/771602.htm

3. NRK Iridium IX Spark Plugs -49.99 http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=4482

2. Cobb Turbo inlet hose $180- http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=3799

1. Auto tech HPFP internals $350- http://www.edgeautosport.com/autotech-hi-volume-fuel-pump-upgrade-kit/

1. CPE 2.3 DISI HPFP $634.18- http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=4368

6. Cobb 3" down pipe $695- http://www.velocityfactor.net/scripts/prodview.asp?idproduct=3726


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I would do JBR 88 dogbone instead of CPe. That will save you 80 bucks.

I would do corksport sri and tip for 245. Cobbs tip is overpriced and doesnt flow as good as CS. Plus you'll spend 400 shipped for Cobbs sri and tip. So theres 135 saved.

I would go CPe TMIC instead of Cobb FMIC. The CPe is perfect for the power your wanting. Plus its only 400. Thats 700 saved.

I would go CPe down pipe. Just as good as Cobb's dp. And it will save 200.

I would buy the hpfp internals. Easy to instal. Or have a shop do it for around 60 bucks. Cpe's is a used core with internals put in. So your basically having them install internals in your pump for 300. Thats a BIG suck it lol.

And i would go with Corksports OCC. They have resolved the problem with it being glued together and is know completley welded. And you'll save about 70.

And find ATVfreek on MSF or anybody that does etunes. This should put you around 310's whp 340's wtq.

Hope this helps

 

mazdaspeedmyk has the best suggestions, can't go wrong with what he is saying.

That said, when I get into a new car, my mods usually always are Auto-x, some track time, tires. That way you get to drive the car, learn about the car, see what its shortcomings (per your opinion, not what you read on the forum), do resaerch, and then upgrade according to your needs.

Then again, there are guys on the forum, who brough a new MS3 home,a nd spent 5K within 4 weeks, car has less than 300 miles, ripping everything apart and upgrading it all. I used to be that guy, learned my lessons.

 

Well, I had a first gen 07 speed3 and I just recently bought this one used. It has almost 30,000 miles on it. And I'm really looking to push 330-350 horse. It's still a daily driver and I don't want crap for gas mileage but it doesn't need to be the 25 it's rated at either.


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You want 350HP and not crap MPG? Hmmmm... interesting...

 

330-350hp will probably take using E85 mix. I'm fully bolted Stage 2 tuned to 281hp at the wheels. 91 pump gas. 20-25 mpg.


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Impressive. It's pretty quick I assume? Also any suggestions for help with torque steer? Engine mounts?


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Also check out http://www.rallysportdirect.com/?src=zg96jfd9

They're having a 10% off spring sale.


My RMM is from James Barone. I'd get all 3 of his mounts if I had the extra funds.

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350+ hp you say? Here's your answer. bnrsupercars.com. BNR stage3 turbo. Just bolts on. You need a Cobb AP and supporting mods too. If you buy some of your hard parts used you can be at 350+hp for a little over $2000.

 

I'm just saying I don't wanna get like 8 mpg.


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Pick from this bucket list....

Mechanical:
- Power 640 WHP, 474 lb-ft at 33 psi on Pump Gas
- Engine Wiseco pistons
- K1 rods
- Snow Performance direct-port methanol injection
- Tork Motorsports CNC head
- HPFPUPGRADE fuel system
- Cobb AccessPro
- South Bend Clutch Prototype clutch with billet flywheel
Intake/Exhaust System:
- Bullseye S366 turbo
- Tork Motorsports tubular big turbo manifold/kit
- Tork Motorsports custom LTAIC
- Cobb Blow-off valve
- Turbosmart wastegate
- Tork Motorsports custom tube intake manifold
- Dodge-sourced Throttlebody
- Cobb cat-back exhaust system
Suspension + Wheels:
- KW Variant 3 coilovers
- Cobb anti-sway bars
- Wheels & Tires 17x9 949 Racing wheels
- 235/45-17 Goodyear F1 tires
- Stock Brakes

 

You'll be at 20mpg or better at 350hp.

 

That helps a lot! What is gonna be the major differences in the TMIC vs the FMIC?


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Heat soak is pretty prevalent with the tmic, fmic could cause more turbo lag.
Being in Michigan, I have never had a heat soak problem with my cpe tmic but if you are having high BATs( boost air temp) then a front mount intercooler is better choice.


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Buy all your stuff from Edgeautosports. Call JP (he's the owner) and he'll cut you deals below the website prices. He ships free too and stands behind all the products he sells 100%. Edge has an impeccable reputation and business ethics. Velocity motor sports isn't competitively priced on anything. You really don't need a FMIC unless you get a bigger turbo. It is eye candy though.

 

+1^^ Were i got most of my stuff from.

 

Sp33dy1013 I'm from Ohio so I don't think I'd have any problems with a TMIC either. And thanks for all the help everyone!


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Use a tmic then it will do just fine and save you a lot of money. I love the cp-e I highly recommend it. I bought mine from revolution motorsports ( therpmstore.com) and edgeautosport.com ( as warlord suggests) also carries them at a very good price.


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I'm in California and my ETS tmic is great... never really had any issues with heat soak.





















btw.. ihaz350whpcar... well almost LOL