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Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,

This is my first post on this forum. Please don't scold me too roughly if this the wrong section/thread location...

So lets give this a go... My fiancee just picked up a 2010 Mazda 3 Auto. Unfortunately as soon as we came home from the car lot that it was purchased we let the car sit and cool for roughly 4-5 hours, Enough for the engine temp to be cool... Tried to start the car it started right up... Put it in drive it stalled. I attempted to restart the car and put it in drive again and as soon as I went to drive ittttt stalled... No check engine light at all and never a stored code...


So now any time the engine has sat and is cold it will stall, I have a list of things I have done, I've covered all of the basics with these cars that I can think of... I am just hoping someone can point me to some direction as it is absolutely causing a headache for my fiancee and I am fairly concerned this will happen or occur at a stop light or something dangerous...

before I go through the list of things I've replaced/cleaned/repaired on the car I have to note that a friend of mine had an 09 with this same facelift body style that always had a blue coolant light that indicated that the engine was still cold... This car has the indicator on the gauge cluster, but it will never illuminate cold or warm... This makes me wonder if the temperature sensor is faulty or if there is a temperature sender issue of some kind overfueling and causing the stall when cold if anyone knows any more to that it would be tremendously helpful...

Items Repaired/Replaced/Cleaned:

First thing:
MAF Replaced with new Parts store maf, I didn't like it and ended up finding an OE one and replaced it with that...
PCV and Intake manifold gaskets (The intake manifold comes off easily I see many posts of people saying its awful?) Just use an inspection mirror and it makes installing and removing bolts a breeze...
Engine mounts (they were badddd),
Cam Sensor (connector looked nasty and it was cheap)
Cleaned Throttlebody, issue didn't change so borrowed one from a friend and there is no Difference,
Did relearn each time...
Regapped plugs,
Replaced Valve cover gasket, cyl1 was leaking oil onto plug,
Checked every hose for a vacuum leak, everything is fine,
Replaced intake runner solenoids, because car was throwing a code for them when it was purchased... Code is now gone,
Ran car with EGR unplugged, thinking it would be enough to keep it closed, but I guess it's possible it's gummed up enough its stuck open,
Cleaned battery terminals, they looked a little rough, There's roughly 0.1 ohm of resistance from ground cable to chassis ground and the one by the starter, also from the chassis wire to the engine on pass side...
Cleaned purge solenoid and ran car with it disconnected no change still stalls cold.
Getting a little discouraged, I replaced the MAP sensor, and variable timing solenoid because the connector was full of corrosion...

So I'm really scratching my head at this point and really not sure what to look at or do from here on out. Everything I thought I knew is obviously incorrect lol... I'm getting concerned it torque converter staying locked or something silly and expensive that I don't have time to fix right now...



I must note sometimes if you restart the car it will misfire buck and surge and then stall again, but this is rare.


Please, any advice or things to test/look at and inspect I will listen... I'm very discouraged with this car of course the car lot doesn't want to take care of it and we can't be down a car right now as i'm rebuilding the back up. :/

Thanks for your time and reading this long post.
 

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This is a great post with lots of good information! Kudos for providing details and for trying as many things as you have already - although I think several of them were not yet necessary, but I can't fault you for trying (especially if they don't cost too much).

If you start the car and let it idle for 10min it should be fully warmed up. Once warm, will the car still stall if put into gear? That will be important because it'll allow you to drive the car until the problem is figured out. Who knows, maybe the folks that sold the car knew about the issue and made sure it was fully warm when you test drove it and when you took it home.
 

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Datsun, Thank you for the response!

I wouldn't have tried so many things, but from my experience involving oddities, like failing Variable reluctance (VR) sensors and Hall effect sensors temperature has been a huge culprit and makes a problem show it's face... I replaced the intake manifold runner solenoids not only due to the code, but one of the plastic nipples that the vacuum hose goes on snapped off with little to know force when I attempted to remove the hose (I meant to post this, oops). doing deep deep research, on multiple pages/forums/threads, I couldn't find anything like the issue I am having.... I wouldn't have thrown so many parts at it, but without some kind repair information for the components that can cause the problem or tolerance thresholds for sensor values/resistances I'm not confident I could trust what I saw...

My Snap On Ethos is all I have to view Live data and everything looks fine. I've recorded multiple instances and have yet to see anything that looked silly other than throttle position when it starts to stall that is why I have a different throttle body at this point, but if it is due to a misfire and the ethrottle tried to compensate that could give this goofy fluctuation as well. I'm just not sure at this point... I am tempted to throw one of my MegaSquirt MS3's on it and just getting running on that, because I could toss a regular cable driven throttle body on it and change many many things, but that's probably not the best for the fiancee lol...


Sorry too much elaboration... No it will not, if you start the car and let it warm up for 10 minutes it will drive just fine, most of the time... It has never done this to me while driving, but the fiancee mentions that it will buck/jerk every once and awhile on her way to work i've not experienced it to know what she's talking about... The goofy thing to me is that little blue low coolant temp light not illuminating, that makes me concerned it think's it is warm when ambient temp's are actually cold so it's either stalling because it's too lean or it's stalling because it the mixture is too rich because the ECT thinks it is too cold, but these are theories.. i'd just like to get some facts of some kind. I'm curious once we get into colder temps if the stalling becomes more prominent.
 

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Coolant temperature sensor bad? If the sensor is telling the ECU that the car is warmed up when its cold that could be a problem.
Do you have any way of monitoring the coolant sensor?
Yeah. If you have some way. If not, borrow something like a Scangauge. Numbers will give you a clearer pic.

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You're fiance got very lucky landing you. That's an impressive list of work you did there and I really am impressed by your efforts.

I wish I could help more, but I think you need to get it checked out by a good mechanic that is familiar with the car make and model. It could be so many different things...

You described "..bucking and jerking.." which are very serious symptoms IMO.
CK
 

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I"ve hunted down similar issues on a different car. Puzzling. Car behaved like it couldn't tell coolant temps, start struggles were unpredictable cold or hot. Turned out to be a fuel distribution issue. Pump was good, but pressure was so low. Swapped a new fuel filter in, still no go. Removed the in-tank pump assembly & saw the pump-filter flex hose had partially split. Never heard of such happening. Fuel was just circulating inside the tank. Swapped that w/ a Gates submersible fuel hose. Guess that's what ethanol does to plastics.
Not saying yours could be similar, but try covering everything. Check your coolant temps digitally thru the OBD. If it shows you hot when you know it's cold, the sensor might've died on you.

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