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2019 Mazda 3 Hatchback AWD 2.5G
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I found a product that allows Android users to have Wireless Android Auto and it's a game changer. But first know that the product is not yet for sale, I backed the project on Indiegogo and received my unit a few days ago.

Pictures below. Essentially you get a little puck and a nice USB C to A cable. There is an app in the playstore called AAWireless (make sure to give it the location permission so it can find the device, it did not ask for the permission but I couldn't set up the device without it). The Pick works by creating a WiFi hotspot and acting as a bluetooth device for phone calls. Once the app is done setting up, the Android Auto app will automatically recognize your vechile and begin initiating the wireless connection. The first time it happens your car will prompt you asking the normal question of if you want to use this connection always, or one time only, or to not use the connection. Hit always and then you should see the Android Auto option on your car's home screen like normal.

Haven't tested calls but audio playback and google assistant through the wheel works flawlessly so I assume the car's microphone is being used and not your phone. Keep in mind this is brand new product and not flawless. The app for the puck does allow software updates so fingers crossed it only gets better.

Issues I have experienced (I am using a Samsung Note 9, it does have Bluetooth 5.0) the audio during music playback will occasionally stop for a second and resume. I don't think it's a data or buffer related issue, at the moment I'm guessing it's a phone lagging issue. Even with a USB cable method my phone would make my car give me an android auto connection fail warning sometimes and it would take 2 or 3 attempts to connect over USB. Over WiFi it works a lot better and loads faster. My phone doesn't appear to be lag as much using the puck vs using the USB cable for whatever reason. But Android Auto also isn't flawless.

Second issue, the puck is connected straight to the car's USB port and so in theory it becomes active as soon as you unlock the car. When the puck is active but the car isn't turned on yet, there is a weird issue where Android Auto on your phone initiates the connection but if your car isn't on and ready to use it. Android Auto app thinks it's a connection issue and terminates the connection in your phone's end and restarts the connection process. This cycle is endless. You can't sit in your car with the car off and the puck plugged in. Your phone will vibrate everytime the cycle repeats and your screen will flash as it tries to initiate Android Auto. On the plus side, if you unlock your car, load it up, etc. and start the car you will see the Android Auto option pop up within 10-30 seconds depending on what point of the connection cycle your phone is on.

Third issue, to preface my car is an early 2019 and it's fully up to date. Including the most recent software update recall for battery drain and other modules being updated by the dealership. This includes the amazing update for radar cruise control which now makes me want to use it everytime I get on the highway.
Third issue is that even though the car is off and locked the USB port typically used to stay active for about 10 to 15 minutes after wards and being that my car is attached to my house my phone can still pickup the signal and does that Android Auto cycle. Which is annoying. But what's more troubling is that it appears the USB ports don't turn off anymore or they are re-activating on their own? Last night I came in after locking the car and my phone automatically switched over to my home wifi and I did some things and set it down on the charger. About 30 to 45 minutes later (the car has been off and locked for about an hour now) it starts buzzing. It is in the Android Auto connection cycle. It does this for an hour and then I eventually go to my car and unplug the device and it stops. I think everyone here has had the common understanding that the 12v always stays on but we all thought the USB port turned off after a while. Now it no longer seems to be the case. Maybe a software update changed that behavior?

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Cool I've read you can use it now with other devices but that it uses Wifi. Looks like the case with yours.
 

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Not sure how much of a "game changer" it is if you still have to have a separate device, use a cable and plug your phone into it.
Why not just plug it into the USB port and not have to carry and pay for extra baggage?
What is the advantage that would make a person want to deal with the 3 issues you mentioned in the OP?
 

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Not sure how much of a "game changer" it is if you still have to have a separate device, use a cable and plug your phone into it.
Why not just plug it into the USB port and not have to carry and pay for extra baggage?
What is the advantage that would make a person want to deal with the 3 issues you mentioned in the OP?
No, you don't plug anything into the phone.

You plug the device into the car and leave it there. When your car starts, the device talks to your phone via WiFi to make the Android Auto connection with the car.

It sounds like if the car's USB port only provides power when the engine is on then your problem will be resolved? There's USB cables with a switch that allows you to cut off power without actually unplugging, maybe try something like that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@trooplewis, @RoboRaccoon is right. The phone doesn't plug into anything. Hence the wireless part. Idk about you but Android Auto has always been picky about cables and then you have the issue where your phone's bluetooth changes from media and calls to only calls whenever you plug in for Android Auto. Then next time, if you don't want to be bothered by taking your phone out or connecting Android Auto (which even with cable doesn't always work on the first try in my experience) then you would need to go into the car's bluetooth setting and reconnect your phone as media and calls va just calls which is what it remembered from last time and defaults to. This solves all of that.

@RoboRaccoon I did look into that but a lot of them seem to be power only or are rated for a USB 2.0 connection instead of at least 3. Not to mention the data and power cables sometimes cut power with the switch but keep data going. Combine all that with the device being picky about USB C cables and it doesn't seem worth it. For now I turn off bluetooth when I come in the house, which is fine but my smartwatch then switches from Bluetooth to Wifi to find my phone and then drains more battery doing that. 🤦🏾‍♂️ ANYWAYS, the team behind the product is a releasing a software update to address issues specifically for Mazda's so hopefully that improves the experience 🤞🏾
 

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Oh! I was following the thread on Indiegogo and saw the Mazda issue some people were facing. It's the same one that you have? If it is then looks like problem solved!

Mine showed up a couple days ago but I haven't been able to fully test it. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 running the AIO hack, hopefully everything works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh! I was following the thread on Indiegogo and saw the Mazda issue some people were facing. It's the same one that you have? If it is then looks like problem solved!

Mine showed up a couple days ago but I haven't been able to fully test it. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 running the AIO hack, hopefully everything works out.
I think the update tells the device to somehow automatically go into a sleep mode and turn off the Bluetooth/Wifi. Not sure what parameters it uses. Also, let me know what your phone battery usage is like. My Note 9 uses up about 10% every 15 minutes it spends running Android Auto wirelessly. Seems like a lot, but I have nothing to compare it to.
 

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Its a lot if its corect 10% every 15 minutes. Its not even worth it.
If you go on an one hour trip, you lose 40%?! lol

I have the wireless carplay dongle, for iphone, and its sucking ~15%/hour.
 

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Its a lot if its corect 10% every 15 minutes. Its not even worth it.
If you go on an one hour trip, you lose 40%?! lol

I have the wireless carplay dongle, for iphone, and its sucking ~15%/hour.
You have a functional one?
 

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You have a functional one?
This one works well for iPhone:


KeepingHatchbacksAlive, curious tho, what necessitates having to turn off bluetooth when you leave the car?
 

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Are you sure? Your own experience? I have wrote them and they told me that the connection is not OK with the M3 2019+.
Sounds like bad info; yes it works quite well on my 2021. If you have wired CarPlay from factory, you should be good to go.
 

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Are you sure? Your own experience? I have wrote them and they told me that the connection is not OK with the M3 2019+.
I also use the same CarPlay dongle (a rebranded one I got off of Amazon) and had few issues to report, and most of them were fixed through OTA software updates. They have worked fine in both my 2019 and 2021 Mazda 3.

It usually connects to my phone within 20 seconds of starting the car, though it will hesitate and take around 30-40 seconds to connect a few times each month.
Crashes almost never happen (maybe once or twice every two months), and when they do, it usually reboots itself or, at worst case, requires a simple unplug and replug.

Pairing one of these dongles with a wireless charger (shameless plug for my DIY post) really changes the UX of the car for the better.
 

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I think the update tells the device to somehow automatically go into a sleep mode and turn off the Bluetooth/Wifi. Not sure what parameters it uses. Also, let me know what your phone battery usage is like. My Note 9 uses up about 10% every 15 minutes it spends running Android Auto wirelessly. Seems like a lot, but I have nothing to compare it to.
That is quite a lot.... my Pixel 4a uses around 4% every 20 minutes using Google Maps navigation with Spotify. I use USB pass through mode, not sure if that changes anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This one works well for iPhone:


KeepingHatchbacksAlive, curious tho, what necessitates having to turn off bluetooth when you leave the car?
@perseus The bluetooth signal from the signal is so strong that my phone can pick it up through the majority of my house. My garage is attached to my house and I park inside. Whenever my phone sees and connects to the Bluetooth dongle, that connection triggers it to connect to the WiFi hotspot of the dongle (which also can be picked up through the majority of the house) and then the phone continuously loops a connection process where it disconnects and reconnects to the dongle and attempts to start Android Auto in a car that is off.

I can tell my phone to ignore the wifi connection but I can't tell it to ignore the Bluetooth. So I turn the Bluetooth off. If there was someway to leave the Bluetooth connected but not have that connection automatically trigger my phone to change WiFi then I would leave the Bluetooth in my phone on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That is quite a lot.... my Pixel 4a uses around 4% every 20 minutes using Google Maps navigation with Spotify. I use USB pass through mode, not sure if that changes anything.
@RoboRaccoon That seems a lot more reasonable! Not sure how to figure out why mine is working so hard for this. I just use Google Maps and YouTube Music.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I also use the same CarPlay dongle (a rebranded one I got off of Amazon) and had few issues to report, and most of them were fixed through OTA software updates. They have worked fine in both my 2019 and 2021 Mazda 3.

It usually connects to my phone within 20 seconds of starting the car, though it will hesitate and take around 30-40 seconds to connect a few times each month.
Crashes almost never happen (maybe once or twice every two months), and when they do, it usually reboots itself or, at worst case, requires a simple unplug and replug.

Pairing one of these dongles with a wireless charger (shameless plug for my DIY post) really changes the UX of the car for the better.
@daniellee003 I definitely have plans for your mod idea. Mine does have the cupholder lid so that might make it trickier.
 
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