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Sorry I have not tried running anything directly to the battery. Is there any reason why the radio can't be ran by tapping into the fuse box to the left of the driver footwell?
 

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You should check out the subwoofer install threads. Those guys all have to run a wire from the inside to the battery.
 

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So how do the Mazda car electronics work with your radio? Any signs of your radio getting into you Mazda's systems? How about hash showing up on your radio receiver?

Just got a Mazda3 with the Tech Package. There are so many systems on the car, I'm worried about some sort of cross interference. Don't want the brakes coming on when I squeeze my mike on 440.
 

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Finally ran the DC cable myself through firewall. Still has to put a protective sleeve but for now it looks O.K. Thanks for that subwoofer forum link. Without it It'll cost me $170 to have the cable installed by my Mazda dealership.
Looks good but I dont see a fuse? You want to have a fuse ~12" or less from the positive post of the battery. Would be really easy to add if its not already there, cheap insurance
 

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So how do the Mazda car electronics work with your radio? Any signs of your radio getting into you Mazda's systems? How about hash showing up on your radio receiver?

Just got a Mazda3 with the Tech Package. There are so many systems on the car, I'm worried about some sort of cross interference. Don't want the brakes coming on when I squeeze my mike on 440.
I'm about to find out this weekend myself. I've got a 2014 sGT with the tech package. I installed my antenna last weekend (Comet SBB5 NMO, trunk mounted) My radio arrived yesterday and I got the power run through the firewall using the method described here and the linked audio thread yesterday as well. I will be figuring out where I'm stashing the radio (Yaesu FTM-100DR) Saturday and doing the final hookup of everything.

73
KE8DLQ
 

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I will be figuring out where I'm stashing the radio (Yaesu FTM-100DR) Saturday and doing the final hookup of everything.
Awesome. We got hams here. Always good when you can find people to share projects with.

That tech package has so much radar on it. Wondering how their receivers do with strong out of band signals.

Did you notice the part in the manual about not mounting anything under the seats because of the airbags? Just in case you were thinking about putting your radio there.

My 2016 Mazda3 technically belongs to my wife so I probably won't be mounting any radios in it soon. But I'm scouting it out none the less. :grin2:

kh6ikl
 

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I found this thread looking for a way through the firewall for the installation of my first mobile ham radio.

The pieces for my rig are starting to arrive and I'm planning out the install.

But, before I get started I was curious how the radio turned out? Did you see any interference with the vehicle/radio? Where did you mount the body of the transceiver and did you notice any heat/cooling issues? Cant decide to try for under the seat, or I think I could make a pretty clean install using the center console storage under the elbow rest.

As you can imagine there isn't a ton of resources out there specific to newer model 3's coupled with hams, so thank you in advance for any info. Thought I'd try and get some more from your experience before starting the install. Hard to turn back once the hole for a permanent antenna has been drilled ha ha.
 

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I ended up doing a trunk lip mount for my antenna. The wire runs under the hinge from the fold-down rear seat and into the molding along the driver side floor and up to around the fuse box. The radio itself is wedged in between the plastic around the steering column and the piece of trim below it. For my radio, this was an absolutely perfect fit...wasn't hard to wedge it in at all, but it's a secure fit. It also does not obscure the built-in speaker on the radio. With good flow to the heatsink and the unobstructed fan on the back of the radio, I have seen no overheating issues even when putting out full power (granted I don't have to do that much). I windshield mount the head with a RAM X-Grip suction cup mount and store it in the center console when not in use. Mic is clipped to the inside of the center stack right next to the CD slot. Perfect spot where I wasn't hitting it with my leg and I could still access the CD slot. It's a very clean looking install up to the point of the excess wire from the radio to the head. I've thought about cutting out a few feet of it and splicing it back together. For now, the excess is bundled in the tray in front of the CD slot.

I went with the steering wheel idea as I had seen the gap when I was running the power through the firewall, and was having problems figuring out how to cleanly get everything to the console. Plus...and not sure if this is just an issue with mine...the spring on the lid to my center console is pretty weak and I was not confident it would be able to stay open for ventilation while driving normally and during operation. I wasn't a fan of either having to hold the console open or re-open it every time I hit a red light or a stop sign. I was also going for a not very permanent install in hopes of keeping the resale value up, as I would like to trade in on a truck of some kind in the future.

Hope that helps some.
73
N8ACR
 
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