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Jacking up from the pinch welds isnt worth risking bending (yes I know about pucks, still).....but main reason I dont use them is I never really have a reason to raise 1 side of the car up vs raising the whole front or rear.

Rear jack point is easily reached, its a black little hump which matches up pretty well against the jack. The front is alittle harder to reach but not too bad, I get to it from the driver side.

I use pinch welds for jack stands.

I use this method for all my cars, its faster and better all around.

Jack im using, should have bought one sooner, its a huge upgrade for the old fashion jacks:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...vy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-61282.html
 

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Rear jack point is easily reached, its a black little hump which matches up pretty well against the jack. The front is a little harder to reach but not too bad, I get to it from the driver side.
Do you find it easier with this car if you start at either the front or the rear? For example, I've had cars where if I started at the rear, then I couldn't get the jack under the car in the front.
 

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Jacking up from the pinch welds isnt worth risking bending (yes I know about pucks, still).....but main reason I dont use them is I never really have a reason to raise 1 side of the car up vs raising the whole front or rear.

Rear jack point is easily reached, its a black little hump which matches up pretty well against the jack. The front is alittle harder to reach but not too bad, I get to it from the driver side.

I use pinch welds for jack stands.

I use this method for all my cars, its faster and better all around.

Jack im using, should have bought one sooner, its a huge upgrade for the old fashion jacks:

3 ton Low Profile Steel Heavy Duty Floor Jack with Rapid Pump®

I was trying to look under the car, all I saw was plastic until that area, which is my picture circled in pink. Is that where you jack it from?
 

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Do you find it easier with this car if you start at either the front or the rear? For example, I've had cars where if I started at the rear, then I couldn't get the jack under the car in the front.
Since the front is so hard to see (would be really hard to see if your cars lowered), I always jack up from the front first. Rear has plenty of clearance and is easy to see (granted I dont have a rear bumper ATM, but I dont see that affecting it too much). Ive never had a rear bumper (trying to find one on ebay), so cant confirm but I dont see how it could be any worse than the front.

I was trying to look under the car, all I saw was plastic until that area, which is my picture circled in pink. Is that where you jack it from?
No. I jack right next to where you circled in pink, in the middle where all those holes are drilled. Thats metal and is the stock jack point. I butt the jack pad right next to the plastic, not a huge space but better than the stock jack points on my dads gs400 (very simular area). From the driver side you should be able to reach it with a good jack, if yours doesnt id recommend upgrading

Look at this post again to see what I mean:

http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/1253913-post2.html
 

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Jacking up from the pinch welds isnt worth risking bending (yes I know about pucks, still).....but main reason I dont use them is I never really have a reason to raise 1 side of the car up vs raising the whole front or rear.
Two points:
1) The pinch welds (at those very specific points) are made for jacking up the car to change the tire on the roadside.
2) Raising one side of the car is handy when you want to rotate the tires.
 

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Two points:
1) The pinch welds (at those very specific points) are made for jacking up the car to change the tire on the roadside.
2) Raising one side of the car is handy when you want to rotate the tires.
1) Pinch welds are made for the stock jack which fits in the grooves, check out the shop manual it shows the jack points for a standard hydraulic jack-its not the pinch welds....ive bent a pinch weld before on a car with much heavier metal than the mazda-I wont risk that again

2) If you want to rotate tires, youd rather have to raise the car 4x? Or raise it 2x and use jack stands? I can easily get the whole car in the air pretty quickly. Can you explain how you would lift just one side of the car and why that would be beneficial over raising the whole car for tire rotations?

Faster and safer for the car. Still dont see a logical reason to use a hydraulic jack on the pinch welds.

How I do it for the whole car:
Slide in a low profile jack with long reach behind the tire from the driver side. Raise from jack point and gently set front end down on jack stands.

Raise rear from jack point (nice little metal hump next to the exhaust pipe), gently set down on jack stands.
 

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2) If you want to rotate tires, youd rather have to raise the car 4x? Or raise it 2x and use jack stands? I can easily get the whole car in the air pretty quickly. Can you explain how you would lift just one side of the car and why that would be beneficial over raising the whole car for tire rotations?

Faster and safer for the car. Still dont see a logical reason to use a hydraulic jack on the pinch welds.

How I do it for the whole car:
The only real logical reason I have to do it one side at a time is equipment: I don't have a whole-car lift, nor do I have a hydraulic jack long enough to reach that crazy front jack point. Aside from that, it still seems like your method is more work: it's faster to just use a jack to jack up one side, skip the jackstands (you're not getting under it), and swap the tires, set it down and repeat for the other side. But yeah, if you're more comfortable using the middle jack points, then that's certainly a good and safe way to do it.

Where'd you find a floor jack long enough for that front jack point anyway? I guess I'm going to have to break down and get one of those at some point. Harbor Freight has a heavy-ass steel one that's pretty long, but I haven't measured it yet to see if it's long enough.
 

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The only real logical reason I have to do it one side at a time is equipment: I don't have a whole-car lift, nor do I have a hydraulic jack long enough to reach that crazy front jack point. Aside from that, it still seems like your method is more work: it's faster to just use a jack to jack up one side, skip the jackstands (you're not getting under it), and swap the tires, set it down and repeat for the other side. But yeah, if you're more comfortable using the middle jack points, then that's certainly a good and safe way to do it.

Where'd you find a floor jack long enough for that front jack point anyway? I guess I'm going to have to break down and get one of those at some point. Harbor Freight has a heavy-ass steel one that's pretty long, but I haven't measured it yet to see if it's long enough.
So you jack from the middle along the side? Im having a hard time visualizing using a jack to lift the whole side from a safe spot (for tire rotations).

This is the jack I have (look at the reviews, one of the better harbor jacks):

Heavy Duty 3 Ton Floor Jack w/ Rapid Pump

$80? Its really a no brainer if you work on your own cars
 

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So you jack from the middle along the side? Im having a hard time visualizing using a jack to lift the whole side from a safe spot (for tire rotations).
If you use the front jacking point that's identified on the pinch weld, both tires on that side will be lifted off the ground.
 

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If you use the front jacking point that's identified on the pinch weld, both tires on that side will be lifted off the ground.
Good to know, I guess it makes sense just seemed like you would have to go up pretty high.

Ill never do it myself and dont recommend it for others since it is common for the pinch welds to bend; but if it works for you then I guess thats what matters
 

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Good to know, I guess it makes sense just seemed like you would have to go up pretty high.

Ill never do it myself and dont recommend it for others since it is common for the pinch welds to bend; but if it works for you then I guess thats what matters
Those are both good points. I use aftermarket jacks, and they lift the car high enough to get both tires off the ground. I don't know if the OEM jack will raise the car high enough in the front to also lift the rear tire off the ground.

When lifting the car by the side sills, the Flyin' Miata jack adapter that I use doesn't actually touch the pinch welds: https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html.

 

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Those are both good points. I use aftermarket jacks, and they lift the car high enough to get both tires off the ground. I don't know if the OEM jack will raise the car high enough in the front to also lift the rear tire off the ground.

When lifting the car by the side sills, the Flyin' Miata jack adapter that I use doesn't actually touch the pinch welds: https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html.

Why didn't I ever think of something like this? I wouldn't feel bad using my father's jack when I'm at my parents' place.
I might need to see if anyone in our machine shop owes me a favor in the next few weeks (or just order one of these...). :grin2:
 

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Hi!

Do You really mean that I won't be able to use my good old retro car jacker from now on? (how will I be able to paint brake calipers for myself, or simply just change the winter/summer wheel sets?)



My local car repairman have got this. This lifter also won't be useful for the 2015 Mazda 3?

 

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Those are both good points. I use aftermarket jacks, and they lift the car high enough to get both tires off the ground. I don't know if the OEM jack will raise the car high enough in the front to also lift the rear tire off the ground.

When lifting the car by the side sills, the Flyin' Miata jack adapter that I use doesn't actually touch the pinch welds: https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-jack-adapter.html.

If you google this it just pops up. First hit. I am going to buy one asap!
 

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Hi!

Do You really mean that I won't be able to use my good old retro car jacker from now on? (how will I be able to paint brake calipers for myself, or simply just change the winter/summer wheel sets?)



My local car repairman have got this. This lifter also won't be useful for the 2015 Mazda 3?

That blue lift only works if you install it in my garage lolol.
 

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I have several scissor jacks and one working $30 floor jack. I had never used ramps before but bought some to change the oil. I'm afraid of bending the pinch welds and doing damage. My tires are months past the time for a rotation. I don't think there is a hockey puck to be sold in the entire city of Las Vegas. So I ordered the flying miata adapter for nearly $30 including taxes and shipping.

My plan was to use 2 adapters and weld a long piece of square steel tubing to them. Each adapter would sit under the jacking points of the car and the floor jack would lift up on the steel tube. Jack stands could be placed under the steel tube. Not being a welder or knowing a welder or knowing the costs involved, or the weight capacity of steel tubing, I scratched that idea.

So I'm left with a floor jack, the flying miata adapter, and two flat top jack stands. With the adapter, can I lift between the jacking points and not do damage to the pinch weld? To me, it appears that plastic is on the inside of the pinch weld. Plastic doesn't make a good jacking point.

If I can jack in the middle, can I put flat top jack stands under the lift points and not do damage to the pinch welds? Do I need 2 more flying miata adapters?

It shouldn't be this tough to perform routine maintenance. I can't believe I'm considering paying someone to change a tire.
 

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my regular jack can't fit under my car because it's on coils. i need a low profile jack and that's another $400-500... :(
 

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rhino ramp scratches the front bumper. Our car has very low front bumper
Doesnt scratch my stock 2014 s touring hatch

my regular jack can't fit under my car because it's on coils. i need a low profile jack and that's another $400-500... :(
$400-$500? Why kind of jack are you looking for, its made out of gold? My harbor freight low profile jack was like 90
 
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