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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks. I just got a 2018 touring hatchback and was wondering what my wheel and tire options may be for track days and HPDE type setttings.

I'm fairly experienced on the track so I am looking for something semi-aggressive and for track use only so I'm not too worried about rubbing issues that only happen at full lock. I will also be driving to the track with this set-up, so no Hoosiers lol.

I would like to get something like a 17x9 with a 245/45-17 if possible. I've heard anything over a 225 starts to rub the outside fender but a lot of those are folks with 18 and 19 inch wheels.

Any other 3rd gen people out there making laps?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, does anyone what Corksport runs on their car?
 

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Hey folks. I just got a 2018 touring hatchback and was wondering what my wheel and tire options may be for track days and HPDE type setttings.

I'm fairly experienced on the track so I am looking for something semi-aggressive and for track use only so I'm not too worried about rubbing issues that only happen at full lock. I will also be driving to the track with this set-up, so no Hoosiers lol.

I would like to get something like a 17x9 with a 245/45-17 if possible. I've heard anything over a 225 starts to rub the outside fender but a lot of those are folks with 18 and 19 inch wheels.

Any other 3rd gen people out there making laps?
Rubbing has little to do with rim diameter and everything to do with rim width, offset and tire dimensions. A 19" rim with the correct width and offset and proper size tire won't rub, a really wide 16" rim with way too much offset and a big tire will.
You really don't need super wide tires. Unless you plan on doing some serious suspension upgrades wide sticky tires can overwhelm the stock springs and dampers resulting in some snap over steer. With the somewhat limited power of these cars, big wide tires might actually slow you down too.
You'll probably want something like a Bridgestine RE-71, Dunlop ZIII or Yokohama AD08R. 225/50-17 on a nice light 8 inch rim should work nicely.
 

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I'll be out at some HPDE's this summer. I was going to get another stock set of 16's and run something tires wise like Arathol said.
Should allow me some track days, autocross and backroads fun for the season.
Ideally I'd get a set of RPF01's in 16" but thats a wee pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Suspension upgrades are planned for down the road outside of may a rear sway bar.

I think I'm going to go with a 225/40-18 whenever the time comes. Fairly cheap and tons and tons of tire choices and wheel choices.

One of my concerns is rolling over the tires. I had this issue with my Veloster turbo. Just not enough camber was available without camber kits and camber plates and I would just roll over onto the sidewalls, pressure be damned. Now, that is a different car with a completely different rear suspension so maybe the Mazda 3 has a better camber curve to negate this concern.
 

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Now, that is a different car with a completely different rear suspension so maybe the Mazda 3 has a better camber curve to negate this concern.
There is no independent camber adjustment on either the front or rear suspension.
 

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17x8 +40. Pirelli Pzero Nero GT 225/45/17 (excellent grip for a street tire). You could probably get away with a 17x9 and 245/45/17 tire as long as you roll the rear fender (it has a 90 degree flange that will destroy your tires, the front is already rolled back decently well from the factory). My camber settings are 1.25 deg front and 1.5 deg rear. 12K front / 10K rear springs so I don't get a whole lot of compression under hard cornering, but 17x8 with a 225 tire is very safe under these conditions. After a couple more OV tunes and some stainless brake lines she will be heading for the track. I might consider dropping the front springs to 10k as I think I currently have too much spring for a street tire.

I have quite a few laps under my belt but this will be my first Mazda so I am excited to see how she does. There is a lot of underestimated potential in these 3rd gens. A nice set of polyurethane bushings for all the suspension parts would be a fantastic upgrade. >Ahem< Corksport, JB, Racing Beat...
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
There is no independent camber adjustment on either the front or rear suspension.
How can camber be adjusted? Camber arms in the rear and camber plates in the front?

On the rear camber arms. Do the 04-10 camber arms fit the '14+? I've seen people refer to the MOOG or AC Delco adjustable arms but those all say 04-12 models. Just want to clarify.
 

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How can camber be adjusted? Camber arms in the rear and camber plates in the front?

On the rear camber arms. Do the 04-10 camber arms fit the '14+? I've seen people refer to the MOOG or AC Delco adjustable arms but those all say 04-12 models. Just want to clarify.
For the rear you'll need to replace the camber arms. While you are at it you might as well replace the toe arms too. That way everything is adjustable.
No, the older arms don't fit 3rd gen cars. They don't clear the frame.
The front requires camber plates on the upper mounts and/or replacing the lower strut mount bolts with offset camber bolts.
 

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How can camber be adjusted? Camber arms in the rear and camber plates in the front?

On the rear camber arms. Do the 04-10 camber arms fit the '14+? I've seen people refer to the MOOG or AC Delco adjustable arms but those all say 04-12 models. Just want to clarify.
I have camber plates on the front (BC coilovers) and a Moog lower toe arm. The Moog kit comes with the toe arms AND camber adjuster bolts that provide more angle than the factory camber bolts, but I didn't need to install them as I had enough adjustment with the factory camber bolt. Also, in order to get additional camber adjustment with the Moog camber bolts, you have to increase the slot width in the subframe which I didn't feel like doing just yet. The toe arm will affect camber a bit due to the positioning on the rear knuckle, so both have to be considered when making adjustments. Also, the Moog toe arms are actually SPC parts (stamped SPC), they just come in a box that says Moog all over it.

Your other option for rear camber is an upper adjustable arm (an almost 'U' shaped arm). I decided against this because adjustments are easier to make under the car with the toe arm and camber bolt, instead of having to reach up to the upper arm. Also, installing the upper arm requires you to drop the subframe to access the bolts. More of a pain than I wanted to deal with.
 
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