2004 to 2020 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Want to lower my '07 a bit, but I've heard putting lowering springs on OEM struts will blow em out quick. Wondering what you guys are running. Just daily driving this so don't need something too crazy. Probably leaning toward the corksport struts/ not sure which lowering springs yet
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I'm running Eibach Pro-Kit coil springs & Koni Special Active struts, along with the factory anti-roll bars & drop links. Wheels and tires are BBS SR 18x8 ET50, and Michelin PS4S 235/40-18. It's a relatively modest setup, on my 2018 GT 5-door hatchback, that's suitable for spirited daily driving.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm running Eibach Pro-Kit coil springs & Koni Special Active struts, along with the factory anti-roll bars & drop links. Wheels and tires are BBS SR 18x8 ET50, and Michelin PS4S 235/40-18. It's a relatively modest setup, on my 2018 GT 5-door hatchback, that's suitable for spirited daily driving.
I'm a little curious about this. So if I'm running aftermarket struts, will they handle any of the lowering springs? There are also some options for <$1k coilovers but I feel like that'd sacrifice more ride comfort.

Also did you roll your fenders?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I'm a little curious about this. So if I'm running aftermarket struts, will they handle any of the lowering springs? There are also some options for <$1k coilovers but I feel like that'd sacrifice more ride comfort.

Also did you roll your fenders?
johngodsmith,
It depends on how much you intend to lower the car, and how much stiffer the springs are compared to stock. Several folks have reportedly used factory struts with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, which lower the car by ~1" F/1.3"R and are only slightly stiffer ( I don't have the numbers handy; I'd suggest you search this forum and Eibach's website for this data). I'd also suggest that you replace both struts and springs at the same time, and use a combination that is proven by consensus and/or developed by a reputable company. FWIW, coil overs don't necessarily sacrifice ride comfort, if they're properly tuned, but In my experience the price point for a fully sorted and tuned setup will cost you a wee bit north of $1K.

I did not need to roll the fenders. The BBS wheels are 1" wider than stock, with identical offset (ET50), so the added width is equally distributed inboard and outboard by 0.5" each. The PS4S tires are almost identical to stock diameter (as specified by revolutions/mile). They're 20-mm wider than stock, so again the added width is equally distributed inboard and outboard by 10-mm (~0.4") each.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
johngodsmith,
It depends on how much you intend to lower the car, and how much stiffer the springs are compared to stock. Several folks have reportedly used factory struts with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, which lower the car by ~1" F/1.3"R and are only slightly stiffer ( I don't have the numbers handy; I'd suggest you search this forum and Eibach's website for this data). I'd also suggest that you replace both struts and springs at the same time, and use a combination that is proven by consensus and/or developed by a reputable company. FWIW, coil overs don't necessarily sacrifice ride comfort, if they're properly tuned, but In my experience the price point for a fully sorted and tuned setup will cost you a wee bit north of $1K.

I did not need to roll the fenders. The BBS wheels are 1" wider than stock, with identical offset (ET50), so the added width is equally distributed inboard and outboard by 0.5" each. The PS4S tires are almost identical to stock diameter (as specified by revolutions/mile). They're 20-mm wider than stock, so again the added width is equally distributed inboard and outboard by 10-mm (~0.4") each.
How do you like the special active struts? I see a lot of talk between yellows vs special actives, not sure which to go with. I've also heard some people just run KYB's and lowering springs which is definitely the cheapest option but I'm undecided.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I own a sports car, so my goal was to keep this car as a daily driver, modestly improve its aesthetics, ride quality, wet and dry grip, and handling responsiveness without sacrificing compliance, noise, and comfort. Mission accomplished. Substitute Koni sports if you plan to use lower or stiffer springs. They're fine for everyday driving at their softest setting, and can be fine tuned to your preference.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I own a sports car, so my goal was to keep this car as a daily driver, modestly improve its aesthetics, ride quality, wet and dry grip, and handling responsiveness without sacrificing compliance, noise, and comfort. Mission accomplished. Substitute Koni sports if you plan to use lower or stiffer springs. They're fine for everyday driving at their softest setting, and can be fine tuned to your preference.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Awesome thanks for the quick replies and help, I really appreciate it man. I see some people saying you have to upgrade your end links too after lowering your car, did you have any experience with that? Something about lowering the car causing more stress on the stock end links
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
I kept the factory drop links, after having a bad experience with aftermarket adjustable drop links. The geometry may not be ideal, but so far (~2500 miles later) there have been no ill effects. The adjustable drop links, with all new upgraded parts, are currently listed for sale in the classifieds along with adjustable camber bolts. IMO, not shared by others here, these parts aren't necessary with the modest drop, Eibach Pro-Kit springs.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
291 Posts
Update: I installed a Progress rear anti-roll bar (thanks to all for their positive reviews), and "while I was in there" replaced the factory drop links with the GRP adjustable links. The replacement spherical joints that GRP provided me were of much higher quality than the first set, and held up to factory installation torque without any issue.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top