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Will be doing my 2nd oil change in the next couple of weeks (10K) before we embark on a 2 week 3000+ mile road trip. Just bought Castrol Edge Titanium and Mobil 1 filter at Autozone for $36. Have a new Fumoto valve in hand and will be installing as well this time around. First oil change at 5K (June 2017) when the car was about 8 months old just prior to driving from the west coast to NY. After that, historically I usually only change my oil once a year. We are not daily drivers, but more weekend and road trip warriors. Since June of last year, have put less than 5K on the car and that includes, the cross country drive. Rotated the tires last week...I always do that every 5K.
You are smart to change your oil every year even if you put in only 5k on your car.
 

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As a diesel owner I have just changed my own oil after coming out of the 3 year warranty and Dealer service period.
I fitted a Mazda oil filter but Castrol Magnatec 5w-30 C2 oil. The C2 has a lower ash content which is better for the DPF. 0w-30 is a bit thin for UK temperatures.
I do not believe in putting additives in a good oil, which is well engineered for the car.

What is a Fumuto valve?

I have seen the UTube clip on the Fram filter, I used to swear by Fram when I lived in Florida with a Datsun 200 SX, never let me down in 7 years. I expect Fram went through a cost cutting exercise brought on by greedy shareholders.

It is not a good idea to scrimp on oil or filters as its the lifeblood of an engine and rather costly if you get it wrong.
 

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mobil 1. i used to like royal purple, but it turns from purple to brown after a few days and then i think it's dirty. might sound silly but it bugged me enough to switch. I like clean oil to look like clean oil
 

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Castrol 0W-20 synthetic... OEM filter...peace of mind from following the manual.
CK
 

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What is a Fumuto valve?
Google it. They are fairly common among those who change their own oil. They are very reliable and don't leak. It's a convenient (and secure) alternative to unscrewing the drain plug each time and not letting the oil spew. You can attach a 3/8" hose to the end and direct the oil back into a container. Someone on the forum even keeps the hose attached to the spout and does not remove in between changes. It reduces the risk of stripping the drain plug (head or threads) nor do you have to replace the crush washer...which technically you are suppose to do each time you change your oil. Only real downside is it does takes a few more minutes (5-10 minutes max) longer for the oil to drain each time as the diameter of the spout is narrower, but makes changing oil a bit cleaner and tidy. My preference and suggestion would be to stick with the non-swivel valve (if not needed), as any point where there is a swivel, is another possibility for a potential leak.
 

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Thank you 2017Mazda3, seems it took somebody long enough to come up with that. Looking at a video of it, I think I would prefer a screwed cap to go over the spout, not worth taking a chance on something so important.

Reading your US posts I am surprised that in your car owners manuals it says use Castrol, whereas in the UK Owners manuals for the M6 anyway it says use 'Mazda' oil either 0w-30 or 5w-30, no mention of SAE rating. After a bit of rooting around on the internet come to find out that 'Mazda' oil is made for them by Elf the French outfit. But why the cover up. My dealer uses Castrol in all models he services as the Head Office is just down the road, its British made and its cheaper than 'Mazda' oil for even him to buy in bulk.
Once upon a time the manufactures used to give a list in the Owners manual of all the compatible fluids for the car from the different oil companies. Not so with Mazda now here.
I think in the northern US colder states and Canada 0w-30 would be ideal but a in the hot southern states I would have thought even the 5w-30 would be a bit on the thin side. I used to run Castrol GTX 20/50 in Florida where ambients were 80-95°F.

I was told by my Service Manager that unless you are racing a car Mobil 1 should not be used as the engine does not get hot enough to break down the molecules for them to do their job. What effect that has on the engine of a commuter I don't know. So I stick to Castrol5w-30.

How do you get on with the M3 diesels over there?
 

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Thank you 2017Mazda3, seems it took somebody long enough to come up with that. Looking at a video of it, I think I would prefer a screwed cap to go over the spout, not worth taking a chance on something so important.

Reading your US posts I am surprised that in your car owners manuals it says use Castrol, whereas in the UK Owners manuals for the M6 anyway it says use 'Mazda' oil either 0w-30 or 5w-30, no mention of SAE rating. After a bit of rooting around on the internet come to find out that 'Mazda' oil is made for them by Elf the French outfit. But why the cover up. My dealer uses Castrol in all models he services as the Head Office is just down the road, its British made and its cheaper than 'Mazda' oil for even him to buy in bulk.
Once upon a time the manufactures used to give a list in the Owners manual of all the compatible fluids for the car from the different oil companies. Not so with Mazda now here.
I think in the northern US colder states and Canada 0w-30 would be ideal but a in the hot southern states I would have thought even the 5w-30 would be a bit on the thin side. I used to run Castrol GTX 20/50 in Florida where ambients were 80-95°F.

I was told by my Service Manager that unless you are racing a car Mobil 1 should not be used as the engine does not get hot enough to break down the molecules for them to do their job. What effect that has on the engine of a commuter I don't know. So I stick to Castrol5w-30.

How do you get on with the M3 diesels over there?
Regarding the Fumoto Valve, there is actually a clip you can install as well that will prevent the lever moving in an unlikely event. I've not heard of one story of the lever moving over, but only the valve leaking at the pan.

Can't really speak to the oil sourcing, but assume like other things, including parts it is dictated by regions where it is easier to source. Mobil 1 Schmoble 1...sounds like the service manager needs friends. :nerd: We obviously know about BP oil with the large Gulf oil spill years ago....I've read some people mention they won't use Castrol for that reason or that it is not a US company per se.

Obviously, engines run much differently than they did 10 or 15 years ago, let alone the much tighter tolerances which of course is one reason for lighter oil weights even though they are made to run hotter. However, to your point, I think it is much more important to follow the manual now than years ago as there are many different type fluids based on different metals and seals. It wasn't so long ago that there were only types of coolants...."Green" you change yearly, vs. "Orange" 5 year...now you have to be very careful of the specific specs you put in your radiator.

For someone like me who doesn't buy a new car but once every 10 years or so, I'm the kind of guy that has to be careful not to assume "it's all the same" or what I knew then I know now. But then to extrapolate that out, it also makes it more difficult to trust a mechanic who may not be fully trained to service your each time since engine and car technology evolves much faster than when I was kid.

There are no M3 diesels here in the US and was surprised to hear you mention it. As you may know, diesels really are not in favor here in the US as they are in Europe for numerous reasons....VW is the most successful diesel car here, but they certainly didn't help the image of US diesel cause with their whole coverup/emissions fiasco which screwed over a lot of VW owners.
 

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Don't know about how things are currently but when I bought my car and when it was last serviced Castrol had the contract to supply motor oil to Mazda. It specifies Castrol in the owners manual and thats what was used when it was last serviced.
 

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It sounds like the Mazda dealerships and Mazda US are more flexible towards owners regarding information and taking care of recalls much more quickly than in Europe. We have just had the Rear Caliper recall that was started a year ago in the US..
When you mention using another oil to Mazda UK, they just refer you to the manual which just states "Mazda Oil" and we all know that car companies don't manufacture oil, but ask an oil company to make it and package it in Mazda bottles.
 

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1WPE filter vs. PE01

I just got done with my latest oil change and installed my first 1WPE-14-302 OEM filter after removing the PE01-14-302 that was installed. Luckily, I noticed now rather than later that the filter is a tiny bit smaller and the filter wrench that worked on the PE01 is too large for the 1WPE.:argh 1: The gasket is very slightly smaller in diameter as well, but shouldn't be an issue. But the gasket now comes pre-lubed...so there's that.:001_unsure:
 

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the ........ now comes pre-lubed...so there's that.:001_unsure:
ya I like that when they became available, no extra container to pre- lube and getting a mess on the sheets or no where to wipe your hands, well maybe under the pillow, who would know?... :laugh2:
 

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Here is my oil and filter changed at less than 2k miles... I'm trying to get ahead of that carbon issue in DI engines. Not sure if it will work, but i don't mind climbing underneath my cars for preventing issues. Next oil change coming soon around 3k miles.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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I also use Pennzoil Platinum Ultra Synthetic with Bosch premium filters.

the car runs great on it, and the free Pennzoil warranty by using their oil exclusively is pretty sweet as well. Pennzoil is also almost always running a $10 off every 5Q deal, so I usually only pay $<15 (plus the 6 or 7$ Bosch filter) for oil changes when I DIY.

Edit: Obviously in the 0w-20 variation, as recommended in the owners manual.
 

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Just out of curiosity, my owners manual recommends any of the following grades:

10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 5W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-20 and finally 0W-30. (As we don't reach the low temperatures)

Which would be the preference, unfortunately 0W of any variety is not very common where I am. So I'm leaning towards a 5W-20 obviously fully synthetic.
 

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I did my first oil change on my preowned 2015 a couple weeks ago.

I decided to just go with the Mazda moly and oem filter. It's a little cheaper than the Motul I planned on using and from everything I read is a great oil.

I subsequently did a 7,000 mile trip over the last 2 weeks. I will change it after another 1,000 of daily driving.

Of note the manual specs something like 4.8 for an oil and filter change. I put in the full 5 and my dipsticl was in the middle.

Also I found out I have the crappy hex key drain plug. So I will have to replace that next oil change as it is already almost stripped. And 1 screw is missing from my access panel.
 

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Just out of curiosity, my owners manual recommends any of the following grades:

10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 5W-40, 5W-20, 5W-30, 0W-20 and finally 0W-30. (As we don't reach the low temperatures)

Which would be the preference, unfortunately 0W of any variety is not very common where I am. So I'm leaning towards a 5W-20 obviously fully synthetic.
Here is my basic understanding. Choose the first number based on your cold starting temps. If its regularly around 100 degrees where you live 5 or 10 would be fine. Choose the second number based on your operating conditions. Ideally you would analyze oil temp and pressure to choose your weight, but since we aren't doing that guesetimate your conditions. 100 degrees stop and go traffic I would definitely be using a 30 weight and probably a 40.

For example my BRZ is specced to 0w20 but I run 5w30 with an oil cooler. It only sees summer apirited and track use. 60,000 hard miles no issues.

What are your climate conditions? You could also use different specs summer/winter
 
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