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Here is my basic understanding. Choose the first number based on your cold starting temps. If its regularly around 100 degrees where you live 5 or 10 would be fine. Choose the second number based on your operating conditions. Ideally you would analyze oil temp and pressure to choose your weight, but since we aren't doing that guesetimate your conditions. 100 degrees stop and go traffic I would definitely be using a 30 weight and probably a 40.

For example my BRZ is specced to 0w20 but I run 5w30 with an oil cooler. It only sees summer apirited and track use. 60,000 hard miles no issues.

What are your climate conditions? You could also use different specs summer/winter

Thanks for that, I live in a very temperate climate luckily. The coldest we would see in winter is 6C/ 43F and summer doesn't go above 32C/90F, 80% of the year it sits right in the middle.

So would you think 5W-30? or even a 5W-20?
 

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Thanks for that, I live in a very temperate climate luckily. The coldest we would see in winter is 6C/ 43F and summer doesn't go above 32C/90F, 80% of the year it sits right in the middle.

So would you think 5W-30? or even a 5W-20?
If you can't get 0w20 yea I would go with 5w20 synthetic. It doesn't sound like you need a heavier weight.
 

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I am using ENEOS PREMIUM ULTRA 0W20 API SN , ILSAC GF-5 and Mann Oil Filter W671 :Racing 1:
Motor is more quiet :yes:
http://www.eneos.us/product/eneos-0w-20

I look for stout TBN (>9) and low volatility (<10) for a GDI engine. 5w-30 can more easily reach those targets.

Low volatility for the intake valve carbon deposits susceptibility, -30 to help with the extra blowby from the low friction rings, and better TBN for the additional fuel cutting from the low friction rings.

I have a stock of Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic High Mileage 5w-30 before their SN-Plus reformulation. Haven't figured out yet if the numbers are something I want to run.
 

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ENEOS 0W-20 - No Limits. No Compromises. Pure Performance.

I look for stout TBN (>9) and low volatility (<10) for a GDI engine. 5w-30 can more easily reach those targets.

Low volatility for the intake valve carbon deposits susceptibility, -30 to help with the extra blowby from the low friction rings, and better TBN for the additional fuel cutting from the low friction rings.

I have a stock of Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic High Mileage 5w-30 before their SN-Plus reformulation. Haven't figured out yet if the numbers are something I want to run.
For deposits, it's the TEOST test value and not NOACK. You can have an oil with relatively low NOACK volatility but have relatively high TEOST values.
 

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For deposits, it's the TEOST test value and not NOACK. You can have an oil with relatively low NOACK volatility but have relatively high TEOST values.
If TEOST is your toast, then best to avoid the high moly Mazda oil. 0w-20 is exempt from TEOST testing in the GF-5 spec. High moly oils cannot meet the low deposit threshold.

I'm partial to volatility as the number to look at, since TEOST numbers are hard to come by in official documents in my research, 1, and, 2, since the TEOST test suite is controversial for its relevance.
 

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My car: 2004 3S hatch with the 2.3. I've done the spin-on conversion, and I use 5W-20, either Mobil1 High Mileage Extended (gold cap) or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, whichever is on sale.

Wife's car: 2012 5 Touring with the 2.5. 0W-20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. The 5 is just a 3 with sliding doors in the rear. :)

I use the same Mazda LF05-14-302B filters for both cars. I've seen them cut open, and you cannot get a better filter for our engines.
 

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If TEOST is your toast, then best to avoid the high moly Mazda oil. 0w-20 is exempt from TEOST testing in the GF-5 spec. High moly oils cannot meet the low deposit threshold.

I'm partial to volatility as the number to look at, since TEOST numbers are hard to come by in official documents in my research, 1, and, 2, since the TEOST test suite is controversial for its relevance.
0W-20 grades are exempt from TEOST 33C which is designed to simulate oil deposit formations in turbochargers but still need to meet TEOST MHT standards in the GF-5 spec. It's fair to say though that the latest proposed GF-6 spec removes TEOST MHT. On the other hand, it's not like NOACK is without its own challenges as well and the GF-6 development work included a task force to address precision and reliability concerns. I believe GF-6 will only allow for NOACK methods B and D and removes methods A and C.

https://www.fuelsandlubes.com/fli-article/noack-volatility-test-set-upheavals/
https://www.infineuminsight.com/resources/ilsac-gf-6/the-road-to-ilsac-gf-6/
 

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I'll throw my hat into the ring, just did a change on my 56.5k 2.5l, used LiquiMoly 0W-20 AA along with a slightly oversize (extra 0.5in taller) Purolator BOSS PBL14610 and Fumoto valve install. The hex head on the drain plug was shot, probably from dealer service, and needed a breaker bar and some paper towels wedged in to get it loose. Engine runs smoother than it ever did now, so I'm happy with it.
 

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Castrol Edge 0W20 with the Mazda OEM filter. Every 8,000kms seems excessive for synthetic; my Toyotas at work run synthetic and only call for oil changes every 16,000km.
 

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The only US state more north than us would be Alaska. Colder temps in the winter than the US would be my guess for the shorter intervals.
 

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For those liking the high moly Mazda oil, Shell's Rotella gas/truck line is high moly as well.

Several UOA reports on bitog confirm this.
 

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Liqui Moly 0W20 Special Tec AA with Cera Tec additive and Purolater BOSS Filter
 

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I have been using since 2012 mazda dealer synthetic 0w20 (i this this is mobil 1 with added moly for mazda only) and the mazda oil filter and never never exceeded the mazda recommended interval (ya i sound like a mazda rep...hahaa) . Im presently at 248K (154K miles) and car runs better than new....but only recently switched to Liqui Moly 5W30 molygen synthetic (it got a whole bunch of slippery stuff and stuff to protect older engines..you re lube gaskets and seals to reduce blow outs) and using the K&N performance gold series oil filter ...and this because i've tracking the car in 2019. If you have an engine with over 150 K mile i do recommend you add Ceratec Dual protection with Cera Tec BTW Liqui Moly 5w30 Molygen is actually green in color
 

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I've done all my oil changes on my car (3) and used OEM filter and OEM Mazda moly oil 0w20. I've noticed the Moly oil is very very oily compared to other oils I've used for my Hondas. The OEM oil is a little more expensive but I can live with that. Car is currently at 25k miles.
 
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