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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm curious what oil & oil filter does everyone use? And the mileage that you put it through

Currently: Fram Ultra XG6607 4k ATM w/ Mobil1 0w20 AFE, planning to run 8k on it
Last one I ran OEM filter & oil 3K



:dancin 1::dancin 1:
 

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Pennzoil platinum 0w20 and bosch platinum filter.
 

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Filters: Wix or Mobil 1
Oil: Mobil 1 or Amsoil
Those are what I have always used with my other vehicles, for my Mazda the dealer changes the oil, I know they use mazda oil filters but am unsure of what brand oil they use.

I stay away from Fram filters also, but I believe the ultra has metal ends on the filter elements not their normal cardboard.
 

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I've only had one change done so far, but I found the dealer's price for full synthetic to be reasonable. I wouldn't save enough to make it worth my time to do it. Only thing would be the trust issue.

They use the Castrol which is recommended by Mazda, and then I also got a rebate in the form of $20 off getting it done there again. So I'll go back. Oddly I did have to be very specific to get them to use the synthetic at all (they said most people just choose to put conventional even in a new car that tells you all over the thing to use synthetic, although that appears to be a US-specific requirement that demands the 0W20), but this may change now that they will have dedicated Mazda service advisors. My first visit was still to a combined Mazda/VW dealership building, and while the service will still be done in the same bays, the Mazda showroom and service dropoff moved to a separate building. At the dealer they use the Mazda filter of course.

Jury is still out on flexible oil change interval IMO. I'm approaching 6k since reset and the thing has been stuck on 50% for weeks since I started checking it....
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I've only had one change done so far, but I found the dealer's price for full synthetic to be reasonable. I wouldn't save enough to make it worth my time to do it. Only thing would be the trust issue.

They use the Castrol which is recommended by Mazda, and then I also got a rebate in the form of $20 off getting it done there again. So I'll go back. Oddly I did have to be very specific to get them to use the synthetic at all (they said most people just choose to put conventional even in a new car that tells you all over the thing to use synthetic, although that appears to be a US-specific requirement that demands the 0W20), but this may change now that they will have dedicated Mazda service advisors. My first visit was still to a combined Mazda/VW dealership building, and while the service will still be done in the same bays, the Mazda showroom and service dropoff moved to a separate building. At the dealer they use the Mazda filter of course.

Jury is still out on flexible oil change interval IMO. I'm approaching 6k since reset and the thing has been stuck on 50% for weeks since I started checking it....

Well there is no dino/conventional 0W20, and they do not have to use Castrol or Mazda's oil. I also find it weird that they will even allow it because it would void the warranty for not using 0W20/Synthetic.

I do because I enjoy doing it, and I do not trust mazda stealership. Additionally, once the warranty is up they will not cover it if your engine burns oil or fails.
 

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Well there is no dino/conventional 0W20, and they do not have to use Castrol or Mazda's oil. I also find it weird that they will even allow it because it would void the warranty for not using 0W20/Synthetic.

I do because I enjoy doing it, and I do not trust mazda stealership. Additionally, once the warranty is up they will not cover it if your engine burns oil or fails.
Yeah I'm a little leery of trusting the stealership too. For an oil change though, the trust would really be more like are they stupid enough to accidentally put the wrong oil in. I trust them not to overtly charge me for something they have no intention of doing on the synthetic vs conventional, but a tech could still screw up. That's anywhere though, so I get that being a good reason to do it yourself. I just have too many other things going on to commit to doing the changes myself.

I asked this service guy the same thing, and he swears that although many/most/all new car manufacturers these days will spec the 0W20 (which as you say is only available in synthetic) they allow the use of conventional if changed often enough. Even though in the manual it seems to suggest otherwise. To a certain degree this should be true that conventional is ok given that if you look at the Canadian specs in the manual I believe it will not demand the 0W20. But I have a suspicion they push conventional because more frequent visits ultimately nets them more things to catch and fix. I'll give them a tiny bit of credit for not pushing synthetic on cars that don't need it, but a deduction for suggesting I should not use synthetic in a car that specifically calls for it. Again I'll be curious to see what the dedicated Mazda advisors say next time.

It's kind of an experiment anyway for me. I used conventional and then part-synthetic high mileage oils in my old car. That thing burns oil like hell. Still runs fine with 237k, just burns through plenty of oil, like a quart every 1500 or so these days (not visibly dripping onto the floor). I don't know if it was anything else I did early in the car's life, but having the synthetic from the beginning couldn't have hurt. I don't know if I'll keep the Mazda as long either, but early indications suggest I'll at least keep it that long in miles because I'm racking them up too fast to do otherwise. So the synthetic seems like a small price to pay and besides, it calls for that weight! I wouldn't like going against the 0W20 spec even if in other places they don't spec it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I'm a little leery of trusting the stealership too. For an oil change though, the trust would really be more like are they stupid enough to accidentally put the wrong oil in. I trust them not to overtly charge me for something they have no intention of doing on the synthetic vs conventional, but a tech could still screw up. That's anywhere though, so I get that being a good reason to do it yourself. I just have too many other things going on to commit to doing the changes myself.

I asked this service guy the same thing, and he swears that although many/most/all new car manufacturers these days will spec the 0W20 (which as you say is only available in synthetic) they allow the use of conventional if changed often enough. Even though in the manual it seems to suggest otherwise. To a certain degree this should be true that conventional is ok given that if you look at the Canadian specs in the manual I believe it will not demand the 0W20. But I have a suspicion they push conventional because more frequent visits ultimately nets them more things to catch and fix. I'll give them a tiny bit of credit for not pushing synthetic on cars that don't need it, but a deduction for suggesting I should not use synthetic in a car that specifically calls for it. Again I'll be curious to see what the dedicated Mazda advisors say next time.

It's kind of an experiment anyway for me. I used conventional and then part-synthetic high mileage oils in my old car. That thing burns oil like hell. Still runs fine with 237k, just burns through plenty of oil, like a quart every 1500 or so these days (not visibly dripping onto the floor). I don't know if it was anything else I did early in the car's life, but having the synthetic from the beginning couldn't have hurt. I don't know if I'll keep the Mazda as long either, but early indications suggest I'll at least keep it that long in miles because I'm racking them up too fast to do otherwise. So the synthetic seems like a small price to pay and besides, it calls for that weight! I wouldn't like going against the 0W20 spec even if in other places they don't spec it.
Actually they do require 0w20 because of cold weather.
 

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Actually they do require 0w20 because of cold weather.
I would have thought so as well, but I'm pretty sure there is somewhere in the manual that says something like 5w30 was ok. Perhaps Mexico or something, I can't remember if it's a N. America manual that includes all 3 countries. Maybe that is it.

Point being that same motor is said to be okay with the conventional, so I could see why people could look and say well it doesn't matter what country I'm in. But warranty-wise one would do well to use the oil specified for the country one actually lives in, I'm sure. I don't know if the dealer is simply betting on no failures before end of warranty (a good bet usually) or if there's an official Mazda line that the 0w20 is only a recommendation and not an absolute requirement, as long as changed often (I believe they're thinking probably the short 4k intervals). Seems to me most people plan to keep their cars longer than they used to, so suggesting to not use the synthetic is a disservice to that end, but still a decent chunk of people who don't keep their cars as long could use conventional oil and then be turning it over to be someone else's problem after they trade the car in.
 

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I do my oil myself since I figure it'll take me 15 minutes to drive to a service station, wait 30 to have them service it, then 15 minutes to get home. That's an hour's work.

I can have myself jack my car up, change the oil, rotate the tires, check all other fluids (brake, coolant, windshield), and even inspect brakes, struts, control arms, bushings in about 30 minutes.

I always use full synthetic 0W-20 of the brand that tends to go on sale. Whether valvoline or mobil 1 at 5k intervals. I figure $35/oil change now vs $3500 for a new engine (without labor). It's an investment throughout the life of the vehicle instead of a shock. I'm already at 23000 miles with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would have thought so as well, but I'm pretty sure there is somewhere in the manual that says something like 5w30 was ok. Perhaps Mexico or something, I can't remember if it's a N. America manual that includes all 3 countries. Maybe that is it.

Point being that same motor is said to be okay with the conventional, so I could see why people could look and say well it doesn't matter what country I'm in. But warranty-wise one would do well to use the oil specified for the country one actually lives in, I'm sure. I don't know if the dealer is simply betting on no failures before end of warranty (a good bet usually) or if there's an official Mazda line that the 0w20 is only a recommendation and not an absolute requirement, as long as changed often (I believe they're thinking probably the short 4k intervals). Seems to me most people plan to keep their cars longer than they used to, so suggesting to not use the synthetic is a disservice to that end, but still a decent chunk of people who don't keep their cars as long could use conventional oil and then be turning it over to be someone else's problem after they trade the car in.
It seems that North America is 0w20. Not sure


I do my oil myself since I figure it'll take me 15 minutes to drive to a service station, wait 30 to have them service it, then 15 minutes to get home. That's an hour's work.

I can have myself jack my car up, change the oil, rotate the tires, check all other fluids (brake, coolant, windshield), and even inspect brakes, struts, control arms, bushings in about 30 minutes.

I always use full synthetic 0W-20 of the brand that tends to go on sale. Whether valvoline or mobil 1 at 5k intervals. I figure $35/oil change now vs $3500 for a new engine (without labor). It's an investment throughout the life of the vehicle instead of a shock. I'm already at 23000 miles with no problems.
Isn't 5k overkill for full synthetic?
 

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Well there is no dino/conventional 0W20, and they do not have to use Castrol or Mazda's oil. I also find it weird that they will even allow it because it would void the warranty for not using 0W20/Synthetic.

I do because I enjoy doing it, and I do not trust mazda stealership. Additionally, once the warranty is up they will not cover it if your engine burns oil or fails.
If you have Pzev and you live in california. They will cover all emissions related components for 150k. This means, that most of my engine is covered for 150k.

http://owners.honda.com/documentum/warranty/partslist/apl27540.pdf
This gives you the warranty parts list for Pzev.
 
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