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What Mileage was your first Check Engine Light?

  • 0-10000

    Votes: 4 28.6%
  • 10001-30000

    Votes: 3 21.4%
  • 30001-60000

    Votes: 3 21.4%
  • 60001-100000

    Votes: 2 14.3%
  • 100001+

    Votes: 2 14.3%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Check engine light came on this morning at 4370mi, barely a month an a half in. The whole point of buying a new car was to not have to deal with this for a few years. Only thing that changed is throwing the snow tires on which read about 2 mph faster than GPS. If anything I would have thought to see something with the TPMS, not Check engine!:frown2:
 

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Check engine light came on this morning at 4370mi, barely a month an a half in. The whole point of buying a new car was to not have to deal with this for a few years. Only thing that changed is throwing the snow tires on which read about 2 mph faster than GPS. If anything I would have thought to see something with the TPMS, not Check engine!:frown2:
Are you sure it isn't a reminder to take it in for the 5000mi service? You can change when the reminder (orange wrench) pops up between oil changes, tire rotations, etc.
 

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I'm at 45,000 miles, and have only had the service soon (orange wrench) light pop up once when the dealer set my oil change interval for 5000 instead of 10000.
 

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I've had mine from 31k miles to 41k miles now and no CEL yet *crosses fingers*
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you sure it isn't a reminder to take it in for the 5000mi service? You can change when the reminder (orange wrench) pops up between oil changes, tire rotations, etc.
The light is the engine, not the wrench (which also turned on recently). I called Mazda service and read the manual and found the gas cap could cause it. I went back and found the gas cap was not attached after the last fill up. I inserted it back in thinking the light would go off. It's been 4-5 cycles now and it still hasn't turned off. So in for service it goes. I do mostly highway, so I will be following the 7500 service intervals.
 

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Not sure about the Mazda 3 but typically a check engine code must be cleared, it won't go away just by correcting the fault. Google "reset check engine light mazda 3" and see if there is a procedure. My Nissan Maxima has some crazy procedure of ignition on/off, gas pedal depressions, etc. It worked for me when I had a similar problem (gas cap).

Oh yeah, you can go to AutoZone and they will read the code free of charge if the reset procedure doesn't work.
 

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Not sure about the Mazda 3 but typically a check engine code must be cleared, it won't go away just by correcting the fault. Google "reset check engine light mazda 3" and see if there is a procedure. My Nissan Maxima has some crazy procedure of ignition on/off, gas pedal depressions, etc. It worked for me when I had a similar problem (gas cap).

Oh yeah, you can go to AutoZone and they will read the code free of charge if the reset procedure doesn't work.
Can we clear codes through the infotainment? It's part of the update process:

1. Press the music, favourites, and mute buttons in your car all at the same time and hold for 2 to 5sec.
2. Input code 3 to test for DTC's, enter, then clear, IF there's any DTCs listed, Input code 2, enter, then clear to remove all DTC's.

Would that clear the CEL?
 

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I had the check engine light come on for a loose gas cap. Checked at Autozone for free but it did not clear after checking. 3 days of driving with the tightened cap cleared it automatically.
 

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yeah gas cap CEL takes awhile to clear by itself in the other cars i've had. Never had it on the mazda, still no CEL somewhere in the 20K range here. Buy a reader from ebay for $12 or whatever they cost, if you get 2 CELS over the next few decades it will pay for itself in gas not used going to have it read. Nice to be able to clear them too, to see if they return.
 

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I had a no.1 misfire at 136,xxxkm. was just a coil pack gone dead from being too lazy to change plugs at the 120k lol
 

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My new 2018 M3 I had several pop up at 500 miles and then again at 3000 miles. Oh but I should mention it was because I puled all the spark plugs and did a compression and leak-down test to get a base line as my NEW engine was going through break in period. :wink2:
I even did a very carefully set up (for duplicating the operating conditions for future comparison) Chassis Dyno run. :surprise:

I did not vote as it would have biased the results. >:)
 

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From what I'm seeing and my experiences, 80% of the time the cars throw codes, it is somehow the owner's fault (by not doing scheduled maintenance, failing to tighten the gas cap..etc.) :grin2:
 
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