Joined
·
84 Posts
I decided that the first upgrade to the car would be the audio system. I really want to keep a clean oem look so I am leaving the factory head unit. I also did not want to loose any cargo space with the addition on a box in the back. I am not looking for a ton of low end just cleaner sound with the bottom end filled in a bit. This lead me to JL Audio 8W3 because of the extremely low required sealed volume.
After doing a ton of reading online about jack compartment stealth sub boxes for the mz3 I finally decided that I would try my hand at making one myself. As far as I know, no one has created one for the 2010 hatch yet so I couldn't just buy one. I have never done anything remotely close to this before and it sounded like it could be pretty fun so off I went and grabbed all the supplies.
There have been a number of others who have created these in the States for the previous two models so I had a lot of information to help me along the way. The big concern is that I have enough volume for the sub which based on my measurements I would be just shy. Again based on reading I should be able to make up the difference with some polyfil.
I tried to document most of the procedure to share with you guys. I won't go into a ton of detail with regards to fiberglassing as there are already many great write-ups online already.
So here goes.
The compartment before being cut to open up the area.
My guide lines. I left the curved portion of the trunk liner to maintain some structural integrity in the enclosure is ever removed.
After being cut.
The new home for the jack. I wrapped it in a couple rages and latex gloves to both prevent it from rattling and provide me with something to keep my clean in the event I ever have to change the tire on the road.
The taping starts.
...and continues...
…and is done!
NOTE: I ended up doing two moulds. One with heavy duty aluminum foil over the tape and one with just the tape done with a couple extra layers. I must say I will never do the foil again for this type of project. The foil stuck to the back of the fiberglass really back even after waxing it with car wax and using Pam. The second attempt with just the tape and Pam pretty much peeled off in one piece.
The glassing starts.
The baffle front and back. I routed the edge to give more surface area for the baffle and fiberglass to meet.
After 3 layers of glassing I pulled the mold out of the cavity and removed the tape. Like I mentioned earlier tape with Pam is the way to go.
The box on the right is 8"x8"x8" which is pretty much the volume needed. The packing peanuts are what fit into the enclosure, so just shy...
Some high strength silicone to set the baffle in before glassing it in.
The hardware to mount it the the existing jack mount. I used two fender washers to give a larger surface area holding it in. Between the two washers I used a rubber washer/seal to help seal the air in.
The box with the baffle glassed in and mounted.
And finally carpeted with the sub mounted. I didn't use a terminal cup because the surface area of the enclosure really didn't lend itself to it very well. Plus the loss of air space although small volume wise, is a relatively decent percentage. So I just drilled a hole large enough for the 12 gage speaker wire and siliconed it in to seal it up.
Now I am working on where I am going to mount my amp. I am thinking under the passenger seat if it fits. I really want to keep the install as stealth as possible. I will update the thread once I have it figured out.
After doing a ton of reading online about jack compartment stealth sub boxes for the mz3 I finally decided that I would try my hand at making one myself. As far as I know, no one has created one for the 2010 hatch yet so I couldn't just buy one. I have never done anything remotely close to this before and it sounded like it could be pretty fun so off I went and grabbed all the supplies.
There have been a number of others who have created these in the States for the previous two models so I had a lot of information to help me along the way. The big concern is that I have enough volume for the sub which based on my measurements I would be just shy. Again based on reading I should be able to make up the difference with some polyfil.
I tried to document most of the procedure to share with you guys. I won't go into a ton of detail with regards to fiberglassing as there are already many great write-ups online already.
So here goes.

The compartment before being cut to open up the area.

My guide lines. I left the curved portion of the trunk liner to maintain some structural integrity in the enclosure is ever removed.

After being cut.

The new home for the jack. I wrapped it in a couple rages and latex gloves to both prevent it from rattling and provide me with something to keep my clean in the event I ever have to change the tire on the road.

The taping starts.

...and continues...

…and is done!
NOTE: I ended up doing two moulds. One with heavy duty aluminum foil over the tape and one with just the tape done with a couple extra layers. I must say I will never do the foil again for this type of project. The foil stuck to the back of the fiberglass really back even after waxing it with car wax and using Pam. The second attempt with just the tape and Pam pretty much peeled off in one piece.

The glassing starts.

The baffle front and back. I routed the edge to give more surface area for the baffle and fiberglass to meet.

After 3 layers of glassing I pulled the mold out of the cavity and removed the tape. Like I mentioned earlier tape with Pam is the way to go.

The box on the right is 8"x8"x8" which is pretty much the volume needed. The packing peanuts are what fit into the enclosure, so just shy...

Some high strength silicone to set the baffle in before glassing it in.

The hardware to mount it the the existing jack mount. I used two fender washers to give a larger surface area holding it in. Between the two washers I used a rubber washer/seal to help seal the air in.

The box with the baffle glassed in and mounted.

And finally carpeted with the sub mounted. I didn't use a terminal cup because the surface area of the enclosure really didn't lend itself to it very well. Plus the loss of air space although small volume wise, is a relatively decent percentage. So I just drilled a hole large enough for the 12 gage speaker wire and siliconed it in to seal it up.

Now I am working on where I am going to mount my amp. I am thinking under the passenger seat if it fits. I really want to keep the install as stealth as possible. I will update the thread once I have it figured out.