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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so I sent a sample of the Mobil 1 0w30 oil I put in my M3 @ 1,000 miles to Blackstone Labs for analysis after 3,000 miles of use, just to see how the oil is handling the Direct Injected engine and my abusive driving style.

It looks pretty good to me (and the lab agrees) so I changed the oil again with the same juice and will resample after 5,000 miles.

I'm liking the low metal count for an engine with only 4,000 miles that is technically still breaking in (most other UOAs I've seen have A LOT MORE metal in the results).

 

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A SOAP sample, intense! Thanks for sharing with the community. Good to hear that the engine performs well out of the box. Definitely something everyone can appreciate.
 

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nice! Your "abusive" driving style probably helped to break the motor in the "fast" way.
You do let the motor warm up to full operating temp before beating on it right? Otherwise, I am very impressed with the skyactiv motor and the mobil 1. If you do let the car warm up properly before giving it the abuse, how do you gauge that without a water temp gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
nice! Your "abusive" driving style probably helped to break the motor in the "fast" way.
You do let the motor warm up to full operating temp before beating on it right? Otherwise, I am very impressed with the skyactiv motor and the mobil 1. If you do let the car warm up properly before giving it the abuse, how do you gauge that without a water temp gauge?
I definitely let the block and tranny warm up before I proceed to engage my "right foot sport mode".

I start by letting it idle during the initial "cold idle" and as soon as the revs drop after 15-20 seconds, I back out of the garage and drive off slowly, shifting at 2,500-3k for 10-15 minutes or until the coolant temps reach 180F. After that, I proceed to shift at 4,500rpm (my normal shift points) for an additional 10 minutes or so, letting the oil warm up as well as the tranny, brakes, etc.

After that, I redline and bury the GO pedal into the all season floor mat whenever possible, and enjoy my brand new ride!

I've mounted a Scan Gauge II on the dash, to show me real time coolant temp as well as intake temp (to keep an eye on the CorkSport SRI I installed) as well as a digital read out of the RPMs and battery voltage.

I'll post a pic of it later. I definitely recommend it, since Mazda didn't think we needed a coolant gauge.
 

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I was thinking of using my Scangauge as well, but it wasn't turning off after turning off the car. so I don't want to leave it plugged into the obdii port. is yours turning off?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea. Turns off after staying on for a bit. Its a feature that gives you time to get to it and check the specs of the drive you just competed.

Do a reset, plug it in, set it up with the car's specs and see if it'll turn off after a while. If you get to it an hour later and it's still on, then there's obviously something wrong with it.
 

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@Must_Turbo... Good info. Another supporting evidence that 0w30 oil is OK for Mazda 3 Skyactiv engine for summer driving.
 

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@Must_Turbo... Good info. Another supporting evidence that 0w30 oil is OK for Mazda 3 Skyactiv engine for summer driving.
What would you suggest for winter? Would you change the original oil out? We're probably almost finished with winter here, but they're calling for around -30°C for the next few days...
 

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What would you suggest for winter? Would you change the original oil out? We're probably almost finished with winter here, but they're calling for around -30°C for the next few days...
0w20 will flow a bit better during really cold temps, so I'd use that for winter season.

I stuck with the 0w30 because our winters here in Florida are very mild (40s-60F with only a few dips into the 30s).
 

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This analysis looks good. The only thing I wish is that the additive pack on Mobil One was as robust as Mazda 0w-20 w/moly Idemitsu SN. For comparison Mazda oil is:
Moly is over 664 vs 136
Zinc over 842 vs 674

With Mazda oil over $8 a qt been thinking of using M1 with a half a can of Lubro-moly mos2.....
 

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man... you really know how to warm up the motor... i might have to be more patient with waiting for oil temp to come up after the water.
 

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No, I'm sure our US dealers use Castrol 0w20 or Mazda's 0w20.
I think most smart dealers use bulk so don,t think that would be their own brand as the hustle of disposing 1 litre bottles would be immense. Probably Castrol Syn.

When the blue dash light goes off then the motor is supposed to be up to operating temperature . I do have a Scangauge on my Ford 150 but did that mainly for trailer towing in the summer as I like to know just what is happening under the hood when it is working. Anyone contemplating a Scangauge; highly recommended as then you can set 4 parameters that are handled thru the on board computer and you instant readouts. OBD numbers can also be pulled in case check-engine light comes on.

Also the oil analysis shows my point that Mazda filters do a very good job to the" doubters ". Would have been interesting if the filter was pulled apart to see what it filtered. There are filter cutters like a can opener that opens the filter so no metal pieces are created like with using a hack saw.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
man... you really know how to warm up the motor... i might have to be more patient with waiting for oil temp to come up after the water.

Some say however long it takes for the coolant to reach operating temp, the oil is that long behind, which is usually an additional 10 minutes of driving.
 

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10 or 12 minutes driving ( not idling) should have the motor up to operating temperatures. Providing the thermostat is doing it's job correctly. If the outside air temperatures are really frigid and no block heater used, it may take a few minutes longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Although the engine does warm up quickly, the transmission takes longer, so redlining after only 10 minutes of driving = a transmission with barely warm oil, which doesn't flow as well as HOT oil, so this could result in less protection within the tranny.

This is why I drive at least 15-20 minutes before I start redlining and rip through the gears.
 

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What would you suggest for winter?
I've been using Mazda 0w20 with Moly since driving off the dealer's lot. However, during Indiana summer, I found that the oil was too thin and seem to lead to metallic noise in the engine when very hot. Thus, I've been adding about 1/2 quart or less of 0w30 Mobile 1 that seems to lessen the engine noise. I would NOT change out the original oil. Keep using it until next oil change and select the weight that you feel is acceptable.
 

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I noticed your viscosities were out of spec for what they recommend. Is that an issue or is that consider much out of spec for that oil?
 
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