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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so im new to the mazda world and i have read a ton before ive posted any new threads. So im in the process of upgrading my mazda3 2.5 l hb for a more spirited driving. I have a 2 hour commute down highway 1 from monterey bay way south of big sur.

So far i have corksport intake and exhaust. As far as suspension im looking at jbr rear sway with tri point engineering endlinks. Also im gonna get koni yellows with eibach springs. Does anybody have any other advice or possible different things i should also look into. Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Havent bought any suspension parts yet so im kind of seeing if anybody has any other suspension upgrades or better mods than the one i already listed. Evetually ill go wheels and tires, but i right now suspension upgrades are easier to hide from my wife:)
 

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Why not just get the structural parts if thats what your really looking for like rsb, fsb, chasis brace, trunk brace etc etc.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Thats what i was thinking. Any ideas on brands that are better than others or if one company makes a better product than others . I know everyone is gonna have their own opinion about companies. But from what ive read jbr sway bars seem to be the best as far as rear end links i went with tripoint engineering and bracing i was thinking cork sport
 

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Tri point is the best at least for rsb since there tracked proven. JBR is amazing as well. Honestly as far as braces it don't matter really its all in the welds and thickness. Try this company there usually pretty good and there cheap. Results for Mazda:09+ Mazda3 (BL):5D
Many more companies out there for braces and bars just gotta look around
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the link as far as rsb im gonna go for the tripoint then. I dont mind paying extra for something good. Id rather spend the extra money and do the upgrades the right way then buying crap parts and not be happy with them.
 

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I vote going with a full tri-point rsb with endlinks, then the weakest links become tires. Then spring rates / damping rates.

am only slightly biased
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Nice pic. Yea that looks like the way to go. Any thoughts on fsb and front end links. Also i was browsing the tripoint site and saw the turbo kit . Holy crap it looks sweet anybody on here pony out the cash to get it or even seen it in use.
 

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None that we know yet only 2 people have boughten the kit at least that's what the owner told me. Orangevirus successfully turbod his on here with junk but it ran like shit and ZZB'd
 

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You can't really go wrong with Koni Yellows and Eibach springs. If you get the Yellows though, make sure you read the tutorial @warlord wrote up here. You need to make sure you get the right bolt for the rear shock. Only downside to this setup is that it's not height adjustable.

Depending on which set of Eibach springs (Pro-kit or Sportlines), you may be interested in getting rear camber arms as well to make your rear camber less negative.

The factory endlinks are pretty weak so the Tri-Point endlinks are definitely worth getting. The stud on one of my endlinks stretched and eventually snapped, and I believe @fizyliftingdrinks had the same issue. There's already a few threads on sway bars, but again you can't really go wrong with Tri-Point or JBR.

As far as bracing goes, I don't have much input. I only have a lower trunk brace and I felt negligible difference after installation. I'm sure a center 4-point brace will help with chassis rigidity though. Our chassis are pretty soft.

The biggest difference though, at least after shocks and springs, would be a nice set of lightweight wheels and sticky tires like @swerv0428.
 

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Koni now makes gen 2 specfic rear shocks so the longer bolt isn't needed.

In hind sight I would never have bothered trying to save a little by going with yellows and springs now that I'm on coilovers. The ride (1.25" drop) on my H&R"s is a hundred percent better than any combination of Prokit, Road Magnet and Yellows I tried.

Koni's definitely have some drawbacks. I found that they fade and become bouncy after about 45 minutes of driving. Getting them adjusted for roll isn't to bad but getting them adjusted for front and rear pitch is a royal pita because the rear shocks have to be removed to adjust them. After removing them around five or six times I pretty much just said fuck it. The ride was ok but I never really did dial them in perfectly. Live and learn.

IMO non adjustable CO's are the way to go for a DD. Buy from a company with a good reputation and trust the engineers who chose the spring rates and damping levels. Then all you do is just install them, set your ride height and rock on! I'm partial to German coilovers (KW and H&R). For $1200 you'll get non adjustable CO's with fewer features than $1000 Taiwan coilovers but the machining and build quality (seals and valving) is top notch (no clunking or rattling) and they are well sprung and nicely damped for the platform they are intended. The H&R have inverted strut pistons which is a big plus on Macpherson type struts. They resist side loading better than standard type pistons. If I did track work then maybe I would look into CO's with adjustable damping.

The Tripoint RSB is pretty stiff but it feels good. It works well when you throw your car around hard. I'm on MS3 endlinks and I've had no problems. If you have an MZ3 I guess it would be wise to get a set of MS3 endlinks and then ask Tripoint to drill out and chamfer the swaybar holes to 12mm so they will fit. Tripoint will do what ever you want to the swaybar if you ask. No charge. They'll also give you the swaybar collars that stop the RSB from sliding sidways no charge if you ask. Cool people at Tripoint. They build and race Mazdas so they know what they are doing. JBR has a good RSB too but his brackets are off the shelf brackets from Energy Suspension and have been breaking recently. JBR will replace them n/c but still who wants to go through that process. Tripoints brackets are really beefy and I seriously don't think it's possible to break them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Anybody got any thought on a front sway bar i was looking at whiteline or is there a better company to get a fsb from also with the fsb should i get new front end links as well. Thanks for the help.
 

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Just for the record, I have the JBR bar and the stock endlinks and have had no problems with it so far
 

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Discussion Starter #17
With h&r coil overs am i going to need to get a camber kit if im only lowering the car the bare minimium. (1.2")
 

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Yes, you need camber arms if you lower your car. It's a myth that some drops don't need camber arms. After having a Mazda 3 and two Mazdaspeeds that were all lowered to different degrees I can say for sure that the car always drives better when you get back to stock rear camber.

Even if you only lower your car a little it will still put you to the edge of the camber range that Mazda recommends. The edge is not where you want to be. The middle is where you want to be.

Camber arms are cheap now. They contribute about 8% to the cost of a coilover setup and 12% to a spring and shock combo. It's worth the small investment to do the install correctly and get the most out of your aftermarket suspension.
 
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An alignment after the install.
 
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