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Any recommendations on a tower strut bar for the 2017 Mazda 3. I have seen there are many out there and heard that one that is one piece would be better but I am having a hard time finding one that is one piece. What is your opinion?

Thanks in advance!!
 

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*The Electrician*
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After my first autocross I found that I didn't feel the 2017 Mazda 3 needed a strut bar. Now of course this may change when I add some super sticky tires but overall I felt the front end had ample feeling to it and plenty of hold thru the very tight course. I recommend trying super sticky summer tires before a strut bar as most daily spirited driving would never uncover any need for a strut bar. But, as always to each their own.
 
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I asked that question to corksport about 2 months ago, telling them since we have the GVC, so would the front strut be important to get right away?

He said first thing to improve would be: tires, and the next thing after that: aftermarket rear sway bar...
 
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I believe the eBay link above and the Speedline bars are one and the same. I ordered mine from eBay and it came within days. Very easy drop in install. I had to add an extra washer for the rear-most bolts because it didn't quite sit flush. Be sure to follow mfg advice to place the supplied washers onto the bolts before mounting the bar.

I noticed a difference in handling along S turns in my commute.
 

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After my first autocross I found that I didn't feel the 2017 Mazda 3 needed a strut bar. Now of course this may change when I add some super sticky tires but overall I felt the front end had ample feeling to it and plenty of hold thru the very tight course. I recommend trying super sticky summer tires before a strut bar as most daily spirited driving would never uncover any need for a strut bar. But, as always to each their own.
I asked that question to corksport about 2 months ago, telling them since we have the GVC, so would the front strut be important to get right away?

He said first thing to improve would be: tires, and the next thing after that: aftermarket rear sway bar...
Any car with MacPherson front suspension will benefit from bracing both upper and lower ends of the struts. Lateral movement of the car can cause the body to flex. In a strut suspension, the towers can move enough to roll part of the tread off the pavement. Boxing in the towers will keep this to a minimum. If you are racing, this can be important as your tires may lose grip when you need it the most, slowing you down.

The G Vectoring system really does not have anything to do with the suspension. Any upgrades to your suspension will have zero effect on how it operates.
Tires are ok, but you do need a better suspension if you are going to use real sticky tires. The problem here is too much grip can load up the stock suspension to the point that it stops working, ie its on the bump stops. Once that happens all you have for suspension is whats provided by the tires. Your suspension isn't able to keep the tires planted. So, there may be a sudden break-away and loss of control. Usually its better to get the rear sway bar and suspension taken care of first so you can get adjusted to how it affects the way the car handles with normal road tires. Once you figure out the dynamics of that, move on to better tires.
 

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*The Electrician*
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Any car with MacPherson front suspension will benefit from bracing both upper and lower ends of the struts. Lateral movement of the car can cause the body to flex. In a strut suspension, the towers can move enough to roll part of the tread off the pavement. Boxing in the towers will keep this to a minimum. If you are racing, this can be important as your tires may lose grip when you need it the most, slowing you down.

The G Vectoring system really does not have anything to do with the suspension. Any upgrades to your suspension will have zero effect on how it operates.
Tires are ok, but you do need a better suspension if you are going to use real sticky tires. The problem here is too much grip can load up the stock suspension to the point that it stops working, ie its on the bump stops. Once that happens all you have for suspension is whats provided by the tires. Your suspension isn't able to keep the tires planted. So, there may be a sudden break-away and loss of control. Usually its better to get the rear sway bar and suspension taken care of first so you can get adjusted to how it affects the way the car handles with normal road tires. Once you figure out the dynamics of that, move on to better tires.
This is why I will never get R-comps for the Mazda, as much as I would love it, the R-comps would bring out every single suspension weakness in a real hurry lol
 
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