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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I've been lurking the whole suspension thread and I have gotten to the conclusion I want Road Magnets. Now that's as far as I've gotten, what else do I need with them, I keep hearing cambers, struts..... I'm a total noob on the lowering cars thing. I know they are springs but what else do I need to get. I would go for either one of the drops 1.25 or 1.75. If I get rims ans tires they will look crappy at stock height. Also does the ride suffer too too much? Will I need some servicing down the road besides the initial alignment after a week or so? I don't want to spend a ton of money tho so anh help you guys have would be awesome. I learned how to get so much stuff done on it on this forum that I figured I'd ask first. Oh one more thing can my friend do this install? Or does it need to be done at a shop? I heard they are like 400 for installing em. Goodness. Anyway thanks guys.

Emily.
 

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On that college budget
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5,278 Posts
Ok so I've been lurking the whole suspension thread and I have gotten to the conclusion I want Road Magnets. Now that's as far as I've gotten, what else do I need with them, I keep hearing cambers, struts..... I'm a total noob on the lowering cars thing. I know they are springs but what else do I need to get. I would go for either one of the drops 1.25 or 1.75. If I get rims ans tires they will look crappy at stock height. Also does the ride suffer too too much? Will I need some servicing down the road besides the initial alignment after a week or so? I don't want to spend a ton of money tho so anh help you guys have would be awesome. I learned how to get so much stuff done on it on this forum that I figured I'd ask first. Oh one more thing can my friend do this install? Or does it need to be done at a shop? I heard they are like 400 for installing em. Goodness. Anyway thanks guys.

Emily.
For the 1.25" drop you wouldn't need anything else but your struts might just wear a little quicker then usual. But, with the 1.75" you really want to get some Koni Yellows to match up with that kind of drop. I've heard a lot that the RM springs at first are a little bouncy or uncomfortable but not that much of a difference at all especially once they get worn in. An you should get an alignment 2-3 weeks after the install so they can settle a little bit. Your friend can install them but they are a pain and if not installed right with the proper tools it can cause major damage. Anyone else correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Use the Search Button!
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There are plenty of DIYs out there for strut/spring install. Alot of them with pictures, just search for them.
My first time doing suspension work I had no prior experience, just my regular non air tools and a spring compressor that I rented from AutoZone. We all have to start somewhere.
It took me a good part of the day but I got it done. I just took my time and made sure springs were seated correctly before I started putting it back together.

My suggestion to you would be to replace the struts while you're doing springs. And if you pay a shop to do it, definitely replace both at once. It will save you on labor costs later.
 

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If you search for the spring rates for different brands, the Prokit's is very close to stock's and your ride will be almost the same and it won't overwork your stock struts/shocks if you decide to keep them. The minor drop (1-1.2 in) of the Prokit will not hurt your stock s/s too much either, and less scraping too. Just for look, I think this is the best route. The stock suspension of the Mz3 is already firm compared to other cars.

1.75 will look better but the more you drop, the more things get complicated, though 1.75 isn't that bad. Mine is Prokit and it scrapes on steep driveways if I go straight in.
 

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College Zoom-Zoom
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It is possible to install it yourself. I did what JP did, got some spring compressors and no air tools. Its a great way to get to know your car. I wanted to learn how, but if you don't have the time nor place, go to a shop but you might as well get springs and struts/shocks at the same time if you go the shop route to save you on labor costs. I'm currently on the 1.25" Road Magnets with nothing else. About 10k miles or so, no issues whatsoever. Ride is a bit firmer but it looks wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better. Every time I see a stock height hatch, it looks lifted....
 

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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey guys. I'm gonna go with the Road Magnets 1.25" on stock shocks. With a rsb from Rb since the corksport seems to break so much as I've read lately. Thank u for the great input. Possibly ill get my friend and well do it together. It's snowing like crazy now so gotta wait till spring. I have read pretty much the entire suspension forum and here's what I've gathered.

1. Install the springs. Fronts with tighter rings on spring on bottom, rear with tighter rings on top as they are progressive.

2. Since I'm doing stock shocks just replace stock springs and bolt it all back up.

3 let them settle for about a week and then get it aligned.

4. I have stock wheels so no rear camber offset or anything Ike that? Oh and no cutting bump stops either?

5. I heard the rear sway bar from racing beat is noisy. But using cork sheet under the bushings gets rid of the sound... Anyone has any tips for me before the installs? I got about five months of this winter before that install. So any input would be Great :)

Emily.
 

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AutoProject
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Hey guys. I'm gonna go with the Road Magnets 1.25" on stock shocks. With a rsb from Rb since the corksport seems to break so much as I've read lately. Thank u for the great input. Possibly ill get my friend and well do it together. It's snowing like crazy now so gotta wait till spring. I have read pretty much the entire suspension forum and here's what I've gathered.

1. Install the springs. Fronts with tighter rings on spring on bottom, rear with tighter rings on top as they are progressive.

2. Since I'm doing stock shocks just replace stock springs and bolt it all back up.

3 let them settle for about a week and then get it aligned.

4. I have stock wheels so no rear camber offset or anything Ike that? Oh and no cutting bump stops either?

5. I heard the rear sway bar from racing beat is noisy. But using cork sheet under the bushings gets rid of the sound... Anyone has any tips for me before the installs? I got about five months of this winter before that install. So any input would be Great :)

Emily.

1. I wouldnt add the rings for the springs. youll bounce around due to it being stiff.
2. three to four days is good enough for the springs to set in
3. with stock wheels youll be fine, you wont rub or need fender roll or anything
4. RB RWB is decent. If I were you I would buy the N9th Racing RWB I have one on my Mz3 as well as the Trunk Brace. I had the TB Performance but I couldnt feel that much of a difference with it than with the N9th racing
 

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For installation (putting the strut back into the housing):

I tried everything mentioned on this forum and others and the one that worked for me:

1- Grease the base of strut and the housing and use the "screw in the bolt backward with a quarter" method to let the strut slide in partly. Then remove the bolt and the quarter or whatever you use to block it in the gap.

2- Once you have it in partly, use a chisel at the gap of the housing and expand it by just pulling to one side, at the same time, guide the strut in.
 

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Get the 1.25 and stay on stock struts. If you go any lower, you'll need springs and new shocks/struts and if you're going to spend the money on both, then you may as well just get coilovers because they're fully adjustable, ride better, and will get far lower.
 

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Making People Mad
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Get the 1.25 and stay on stock struts. If you go any lower, you'll need springs and new shocks/struts and if you're going to spend the money on both, then you may as well just get coilovers because they're fully adjustable, ride better, and will get far lower.
You're kidding? I came from bc coils to 1.75's on stock struts, stock struts do fine with them, you just need to cut the bump stops.
 
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