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tire rotation issues

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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
i just rotated my tires for the 3nd time, i have 17,000 miles on my car. its a 2010 mazda 3 sport (5door)

last week i rotated my tires and i now have road noise, pulsing noise, i'm going on 300 miles and it sounds like its getting louder. i have an appointment on thursday to bring my car into mazda to get an alignment done. sounds alot like bearing noise but i doubt it because the car is so new and hasnt had any impact damage.

last week i stopped in to make the appointment and they visually inspected my tires. they said the front (which were on the rear) were feathered. and that could cause road noise and to def get an alignment done and it should fix the issue. but i've read other wise online


i was also noticing, that discount tire over torqued my front passenger tire... could over torquing really cause rotor warping? if so, is it over time? or upon initial over torquing of lugs? i'm noticing slight vibration while breaking, not sure of its the tire, or a warped rotor.... the wheel was def over torqued!! breaking issue happened immediately after rotation


i've researched this, and i've found that alot of mazda3 owners have noticed cupping/feathering on the rear tires , and alot of road noise after rotation. has any one had their road noise lessen and go away?
 

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The One and Only
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The chances of having a warped rotor due to over torquing is highly unlikely unless you have done some serious road racing and track time where your rotors are glowing. As for the road noise, make sure the tires are being rotated properly. Once they begin to cup or feather, they will never be the same.
 

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i just rotated my tires for the 3nd time, i have 17,000 miles on my car. its a 2010 mazda 3 sport (5door)

last week i rotated my tires and i now have road noise, pulsing noise, i'm going on 300 miles and it sounds like its getting louder. i have an appointment on thursday to bring my car into mazda to get an alignment done. sounds alot like bearing noise but i doubt it because the car is so new and hasnt had any impact damage.

last week i stopped in to make the appointment and they visually inspected my tires. they said the front (which were on the rear) were feathered. and that could cause road noise and to def get an alignment done and it should fix the issue. but i've read other wise online


i was also noticing, that discount tire over torqued my front passenger tire... could over torquing really cause rotor warping? if so, is it over time? or upon initial over torquing of lugs? i'm noticing slight vibration while breaking, not sure of its the tire, or a warped rotor.... the wheel was def over torqued!! breaking issue happened immediately after rotation


i've researched this, and i've found that alot of mazda3 owners have noticed cupping/feathering on the rear tires , and alot of road noise after rotation. has any one had their road noise lessen and go away?
overtorquing can cause warping, thats why they make torque sticks. 80-100lb is most vehicles.

after about 15k i started to notice road noise...when i reached 25k my tires were gone. (3/32 in front and rear soon behind) I did my alignment after 20k miles (toe was out .06 wooopdeeedooo)

the road noise will not lessen and to be honest, i would like to see the feathering. i know my tires are cupped, 2 different things. does the height change between treads or is the tread itself flaking
 

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Had mine rotated at 7500 at the dealership. I thought that something felt odd, almost like a rougher ride, so I checked the tires when I got home. No nails, so I figured it was just rough pavement. After a few days I still had the problem and it seemed to be coming from the front tires. It's almost like a slight bump every rotation of the wheel. What I mean is that at slow speeds you can detect a bump each time the tire rotates, but at high speeds it just seems to ride rougher than it did before the tires were rotated. I also notice it more when I apply the brakes. It may be that I'm just feeling it through the brake pedal. I don't know if all of the 3s came with the same tires, but I have a 2010 3 s with 17" Yokohamas. I believe that the tires are the problem, but I don't know if it was caused by a defect in the tires, or a design issue with the suspension that causes this to happen. Has anyone who has replaced their tires with another brand noticed this after a tire rotation?
 

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From personal experience over tightening a wheel nut can warp a rotor immediately. Had the dodge dealership do it to a minivan twice on the front at the first two "complimentary" services. Good luck getting them to pay for the damage though. I rotate my own tires now.
 

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Generally speaking, if you don't rotate your tires at regular 5k intervals your rear tires will feather and cup. As a result, when you do move them to the front, they tend to generate "more" noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so i woke up at 545, couldnt sleep. left the house at 645 and went to brake check. they did a complete diagnostic of everything and went threw everything. they rotated my tires for me for free back to original locations.

turns out the camber and caster and tow was completely off on both rear, but it was extremely bad on the driver rear. and thats the tire that has cupping and feathering and was causing road noise.

both tires in the rear are screwed up. passanger rear has radial pull (when rotated to the front)and driver rear has cupping and feathering.

so..... this goes with out saying.... i spent 114$ on a life time alignment at brake check. they always include me in the alignment and always explain to me everything thats going on. they aligned the rear as best as they could and gave me the print out. they also recommended i find a place in town to re-surface the tire, it has plenty of tread left on it. it was recommended new tires or resurface tire.


i am still interested in what the poll shows. because i know there are alot of people complaining about this issue, alot complaining about bad alignment issues in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Had mine rotated at 7500 at the dealership. I thought that something felt odd, almost like a rougher ride, so I checked the tires when I got home. No nails, so I figured it was just rough pavement. After a few days I still had the problem and it seemed to be coming from the front tires. It's almost like a slight bump every rotation of the wheel. What I mean is that at slow speeds you can detect a bump each time the tire rotates, but at high speeds it just seems to ride rougher than it did before the tires were rotated. I also notice it more when I apply the brakes. It may be that I'm just feeling it through the brake pedal. I don't know if all of the 3s came with the same tires, but I have a 2010 3 s with 17" Yokohamas. I believe that the tires are the problem, but I don't know if it was caused by a defect in the tires, or a design issue with the suspension that causes this to happen. Has anyone who has replaced their tires with another brand noticed this after a tire rotation?
hey lhbalesjr, check your alignment im sure you'll see that the rear alignment is tow in and camber is a little off. sounds like you have the identical problem as i have. cupping on the tires due to bad alignment.


its best to get aligned 2 times a year on normal road condition, as much as every oil change on rough roads and roads with construction.

my area of town is undergoing ALOT of construction . so much so that its hard to avoid every dip, filled trench and uneven pavement.


rotating tires seems to be simply a band aid to hide un even wear on the rear. since the rear dont have 100% capability of adjusting camber, caster, tow. getting alignments as often as you can will help prevent and protect your tires from cupping and feathering. because the only reason tires will cup and feather would be bad alignment.

would i be safe to make this claim?

lastly. yokohama are great tires, but they do have more soft compound, they will wear more quickly and in return will succumb to cupping and feathering quicker. they are still awesome tires, and the problem def lies more with alignment issues then actual tire issues
 
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Thanks very much for the info. Doesn't the Mazda warranty cover things like adjustments during the first 12,000 miles? I even saw something about wiper blades being covered during the first year or 12 months. I know that the tires are covered by the manufacturer's warranty, but I wonder what they would do if the tire problem was due to incorrect aligment.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks very much for the info. Doesn't the Mazda warranty cover things like adjustments during the first 12,000 miles? I even saw something about wiper blades being covered during the first year or 12 months. I know that the tires are covered by the manufacturer's warranty, but I wonder what they would do if the tire problem was due to incorrect aligment.
yeah you pose very good points here... i am going to find out tomorrow. they are already replacing one tire for me. they are replacing a hancook for a free yokohama that should be on my car in the first place.


i forgot to include a piece of the story to try to not complicate things. but i have a hancook tire on the passenger rear, mazda gave me a hancook tire instead of yokohama when i had a flat on the rear, and it was covered by my warrenty. they didnt have yokohama so they gave me a hancook instead with little to no choice in the matter. they said "its the same thing" but indeed its not. different wear ratings.

when i got my rotation last week they put the hancook on the front passanger. and thats when all the issues showed up.

i have since put the tires to original position, prior to rotation, and have gotten an alignment . i drove 100 miles on it today, and the radial pull returned as well as the radial noise became louder as i drove longer. and it is also slightly shaking too again....


im bringing it to mazda tomorrow.

does any one think that all these issues are because they put a hancook directional tire on a car with 3 yokohama that are not directional?


honestly i feel sick about the whole matter.... really really sick
 

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yeah you pose very good points here... i am going to find out tomorrow. they are already replacing one tire for me. they are replacing a hancook for a free yokohama that should be on my car in the first place.


i forgot to include a piece of the story to try to not complicate things. but i have a hancook tire on the passenger rear, mazda gave me a hancook tire instead of yokohama when i had a flat on the rear, and it was covered by my warrenty. they didnt have yokohama so they gave me a hancook instead with little to no choice in the matter. they said "its the same thing" but indeed its not. different wear ratings.

when i got my rotation last week they put the hancook on the front passanger. and thats when all the issues showed up.

i have since put the tires to original position, prior to rotation, and have gotten an alignment . i drove 100 miles on it today, and the radial pull returned as well as the radial noise became louder as i drove longer. and it is also slightly shaking too again....


im bringing it to mazda tomorrow.

does any one think that all these issues are because they put a hancook directional tire on a car with 3 yokohama that are not directional?


honestly i feel sick about the whole matter.... really really sick


Yes, they should not have put the non-matching tire on your car. That is wrong, and they know it. But I don't think that would've caused anything permanent.

The bottom line here though, is that the stock Yok's suck ass....period. I bought a unit that was on the lot for several months, and my tires are plagued with flat spots. I think most people overlook tires as a performance upgrade...but find the right tire for your application, and significant improvements will be noticed.


How many miles were put on the car with mis-matched tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
10,000 with the non matching tire.


more was into play, partly my fault partly theirs. they fixed their fault. and then i fixed mien


this is what i did today.
645am i arrived at mazda, i couldnt sleep so i figured i'd head over and just enjoy the nice 60 degree morning.
730 service manager arrives, 745 he meets with me in his office, we talked for a while and he personally went on a test drive wtih me. had me drive my car, then he drove it. agreed it felt odd. notified me that my steering wheel was not centered property, and acknowledged the pull/drift to the right.

lets back up. yesterday i went to brake check at 7am and had them align my car right? i also requested that they putt the cupped/scalloped tire back onto the rear where it came from. since the rear camber/toe/alignment was off and c aused the scalloping in the first place.

lets get back to the story. so after the test drive the manager got things rolling with my car, had his personal best mechanic lined up to work on my car. i was out there and i was looking at my tires... i noticed brake check did not move the problem tire to the rear... wtf?!?? they said they did even in their report. but they did NOT move it... nor did they test drive it after the alignment?!?!

so now mazda swapped my tires around, and put on a brand new tire to replace the hancook.

i left mazda at 1030am and headed over to the oposite side of town to get the scalloped tire re-surfaced, shaved, returned to round and balanced. but on the way to the other side of town i stopped at a different brake check and had them re-align my car. i told them about the steering wheel. they took 45 min and re-did the alignment.

i went to the tire shop on the east side of town and let them shave the tire, but they shaved the wrong one. they shaved the brand new one.... wtf? so i had them take it back and shave the CORRECT one... removed the scalloping and was driving home and noticed my car was still pulling and STILL had the steering wheel to the left slightly!??!



screw this i thought. by this time it was already 1pm....

i call another brake check and they said their lift was down, but to go to the newest location in town since they had a brand new lift and they would for sure fix my issues. i dropped my car off since that location is rather busy... 2 hours later i pick it up and finally, it drives correctly.



all in all. got the tire replaced, shaved and corrected scalloped tire, got 3 alignments . and FINALLY my car drives correctly....

what to learn from this.
alignment is just as important if not MORE important then rotating your tires. dont skip on either. if you skip on it DONT rotate it, just wait till you need new tires...
 

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I actually never rotated my stockers and I have 12k on the clock.. I never rotated them because they are complete garbage tires and I'm getting new ones soon
 

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Yeah the tires are pretty bad to begin with. Can't wait til they wear out so i can get some rims and tires.

Theres a lot of places that have a $100 alignment for life program it's worth every penny.
 

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Same exact problem as you, at same milage!

I bought what I thought was a decent little car, and in many ways it has lived up to its promise. I have to say however that I started having tire problems with this car at 5500 miles (oscillation noise from rear tires) and it started to freak me out because I had owned an original 350Z, and went through two tire swaps with that car inside of 25K miles (at least Nissan had the decency of assisting me with the tire issue). I returned to my dealership after the initial visit of 5500 miles to complain once more of a now unbearable noise from the rear tires, again 'no trouble found' just rotate the tires (Anderson Mazda of Crystal Lake, their service SUCKS) So I went to a tire shop where they rotated the tires for me front to bk and across (for FREE Anderson!!!). The problem became worse. Went to another tire place again at 16.5k miles and they not only found that the rear tires were cupped but the front tires were practically 80% worn. Now here I sit after months of dealing with this with a car that's under 29k miles, with completely worn out Yokohama tires, and no help from Mazda (they basically told me to f-off) and absolutely no help from the dealer or from Yokohama tires. I will NEVER EVER even consider buying another Mazda product, or Yokohama for that matter and I will certainly NEVER go to another Anderson owned dealership. I'd rather bike 80 miles to work. Stay away from Mazda products. They admit they KNOW about the problem, because it is caused by the factory settings of their suspensons (negative toe and camber) to make the car feel more 'sporty' and stable. If they are going to sell a car with a performance set suspension that they KNOW is going to shred your tires they SHOULD DISCLOSE THIS at the point of sale!!!!! :lemon:
 

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I bought what I thought was a decent little car, and in many ways it has lived up to its promise. I have to say however that I started having tire problems with this car at 5500 miles (oscillation noise from rear tires) and it started to freak me out because I had owned an original 350Z, and went through two tire swaps with that car inside of 25K miles (at least Nissan had the decency of assisting me with the tire issue). I returned to my dealership after the initial visit of 5500 miles to complain once more of a now unbearable noise from the rear tires, again 'no trouble found' just rotate the tires (Anderson Mazda of Crystal Lake, their service SUCKS) So I went to a tire shop where they rotated the tires for me front to bk and across (for FREE Anderson!!!). The problem became worse. Went to another tire place again at 16.5k miles and they not only found that the rear tires were cupped but the front tires were practically 80% worn. Now here I sit after months of dealing with this with a car that's under 29k miles, with completely worn out Yokohama tires, and no help from Mazda (they basically told me to f-off) and absolutely no help from the dealer or from Yokohama tires. I will NEVER EVER even consider buying another Mazda product, or Yokohama for that matter and I will certainly NEVER go to another Anderson owned dealership. I'd rather bike 80 miles to work. Stay away from Mazda products. They admit they KNOW about the problem, because it is caused by the factory settings of their suspensons (negative toe and camber) to make the car feel more 'sporty' and stable. If they are going to sell a car with a performance set suspension that they KNOW is going to shred your tires they SHOULD DISCLOSE THIS at the point of sale!!!!! :lemon:
Oh look it's yet another person bitching an moaning about how horrible the entire brand is instead of just focusing the anger at the dealer who refused to help him. Dude the stock tires suck d**k. If its the alignment that is pissing you off. Take it somewhere and get it toned down. That's my two cents. But your gonna do what your gonna do.
 

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I bought what I thought was a decent little car, and in many ways it has lived up to its promise. I have to say however that I started having tire problems with this car at 5500 miles (oscillation noise from rear tires) and it started to freak me out because I had owned an original 350Z, and went through two tire swaps with that car inside of 25K miles (at least Nissan had the decency of assisting me with the tire issue). I returned to my dealership after the initial visit of 5500 miles to complain once more of a now unbearable noise from the rear tires, again 'no trouble found' just rotate the tires (Anderson Mazda of Crystal Lake, their service SUCKS) So I went to a tire shop where they rotated the tires for me front to bk and across (for FREE Anderson!!!). The problem became worse. Went to another tire place again at 16.5k miles and they not only found that the rear tires were cupped but the front tires were practically 80% worn. Now here I sit after months of dealing with this with a car that's under 29k miles, with completely worn out Yokohama tires, and no help from Mazda (they basically told me to f-off) and absolutely no help from the dealer or from Yokohama tires. I will NEVER EVER even consider buying another Mazda product, or Yokohama for that matter and I will certainly NEVER go to another Anderson owned dealership. I'd rather bike 80 miles to work. Stay away from Mazda products. They admit they KNOW about the problem, because it is caused by the factory settings of their suspensons (negative toe and camber) to make the car feel more 'sporty' and stable. If they are going to sell a car with a performance set suspension that they KNOW is going to shred your tires they SHOULD DISCLOSE THIS at the point of sale!!!!! :lemon:
Poorly supported argument is poorly supported.
 

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I bought what I thought was a decent little car, and in many ways it has lived up to its promise. I have to say however that I started having tire problems with this car at 5500 miles (oscillation noise from rear tires) and it started to freak me out because I had owned an original 350Z, and went through two tire swaps with that car inside of 25K miles (at least Nissan had the decency of assisting me with the tire issue). I returned to my dealership after the initial visit of 5500 miles to complain once more of a now unbearable noise from the rear tires, again 'no trouble found' just rotate the tires (Anderson Mazda of Crystal Lake, their service SUCKS) So I went to a tire shop where they rotated the tires for me front to bk and across (for FREE Anderson!!!). The problem became worse. Went to another tire place again at 16.5k miles and they not only found that the rear tires were cupped but the front tires were practically 80% worn. Now here I sit after months of dealing with this with a car that's under 29k miles, with completely worn out Yokohama tires, and no help from Mazda (they basically told me to f-off) and absolutely no help from the dealer or from Yokohama tires. I will NEVER EVER even consider buying another Mazda product, or Yokohama for that matter and I will certainly NEVER go to another Anderson owned dealership. I'd rather bike 80 miles to work. Stay away from Mazda products. They admit they KNOW about the problem, because it is caused by the factory settings of their suspensons (negative toe and camber) to make the car feel more 'sporty' and stable. If they are going to sell a car with a performance set suspension that they KNOW is going to shred your tires they SHOULD DISCLOSE THIS at the point of sale!!!!! :lemon:
No, it should be UNDERSTOOD that tires will be eaten quicker by sportier suspension. There's no arguing matter in that. Does BMW tell it's owners that all the neg camber in back is going to eat the tires quicker? No.

You seem like a picky guy. Don't blame Mazda for yoko tires. Mazda can get whatever deals it can with tires. They're a smaller company that doesn't have the funds to provide amazing tires off the bat unless you pay for them. Mazda is more of a cult followed automaker, and if you don't like it, then don't be a part of it. But DON'T come on a Mazda forum where the cult is and tell us to never buy one of our passions. I bet you came on here to sound like you're better than the crowd, never to post again. If that's so, good riddance.

As I was just reading in a review, you could go ahead and buy a Focus or some other compact/hatch, but if you want a Driver's car with just the pure elements, then there isn't much better than a Mazda3 for the economical prices. Go buy a base Acura or Lexus if you're so damned concerned with outside noise. I hear they block out a lot of road db's. Have fun sitting in an isolated box on wheels.

stfu or gtfo.
 

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Idiots these days

I think the above comment that was poorly supported, showed you quite well why you have the problem. I've had the same issue and just have simply kept the tires in their current spot every 25k because of the sport suspension. Thats the only reason I've found that the tires wear out quickly and it's like armageddon if you get them rotated.

in essence, sport handling vs. long life tires.

you pick.
 

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Hankook.

Also it really doesn't matter if they are directional or not in regards to wear. It just makes it harder to rotate obviously. The issue is once the tires are feathered/cupped and moved to the front you will feel it a lot more and have more issues than when they were in back. Why you have to be vigilant with tire pressure to keep things in check.

What are the specs for Toe/Camber for the rear? In my experience toe being out of wack will cause far more issues than camber on any car.
 
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