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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
If you live in an area that has two seasons: Winter and construction, do yourself a BIG favor and downsize to 16" rims.
Probably pickup a set of 4 OEM Mazda 3's (previous gen) for $200, new premium tires for $500, $100 to mount and balance, and sell your OEM 2019 setup for more than the total downsized set.

Unless you're Andretti on the roads, you'll probably appreciate the more comfortable setup. And if you go with some nice all seasons/summer tires with fancy compounds, you can probably mitigate most of the "loss of responsiveness" when going from lower profile OEM tires to the squishier, but stickier compound all seasons/summers.

Highly recommend Continental DWS06 and Michelin AS3+ in the 16" sizes.
Thanks for the recommendation. Unfortunately I already spend $625 for the tire/RIM insurance, but if this rate of approx. one every month continues, I will definitely follow the advice. Others seems to think so too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I have found that dealers often say that the only thing acceptable is how the vehicle was manufactured. I am not surprised that they would say "I can not use non-low-profile tires". The reality is that 16 inch rims with the appropriate size tire will work great and will help reduce the possibility of a blowout when hitting a pothole.

I also wonder if the tire pressure is set too high causing the increased blowout issue. I believe they ship the cars with 50 pounds of pressure and the dealer is supposed to reduce it.
The pressure was set to 36 PSI, although I did notice that other tires had lost 1-2 PSI each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Try reading a little more carefully next time.....
The dealer is telling this guy he can't use low profile tires when many thousands of people do it every day. Why do you find it such a problem to ask the reason for this?
Does everybody in New Jersey get flat tires on a monthly basis? If they do, are the cars to blame? The Turnpike must be lined with disabled cars on a daily basis...... :rolleyes:
Would you get rid of your car just because you got a flat tire? If you know the roads are that bad, you need to be a bit more attentive and make a concerted effort to avoid potholes and such.
You would be no less than superman if you could avoid the potholes on NJ/NY major highways going 55-70 MPH.
 

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Thanks for the recommendation. Unfortunately I already spend $625 for the tire/RIM insurance, but if this rate of approx. one every month continues, I will definitely follow the advice. Others seems to think so too.
We were offered the tire and wheel warranty at initial purchase, it was around $800+. I declined and within a week was purchasing new 16” rims and new tires. Problem with the dealer tire/wheel warranty is 1) You need to get back to the dealer for the repair, 2) They give you the same tire and or wheel which might be the problem in the first place. Which turned out to be the case with our vehicle, a poor choice of an 18” performance wheel and a crap tire.

In the long run it’s likely a better deal to just replace the crap OEM wheels and tires with something that will last. I did the tire rack wheels and went to our local dealer for install with new tires. In 5 mos. no issues.

FWIW I had the same issue with my wife’s previous car, a 2011 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, also with a 17” performance wheel and tire. 2 blowouts due to potholes in the time we owned it. Buddy had the same issues with his wife’s Jetta.
 

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Just to add one more tale of woe... three tires shot since October, and here one $400 rim... Over 50 years of driving at least 18000 miles per year, never happened once. And yes, Arathol, I know how to avoid potholes... but not easy at night. One of the potholes wasn’t much of one, yet bubbled the sidewall, which makes me think crappy Toyo tire. The monster pothole that caused this was after a bit of snow and plowing on a Long Island parkway that is a mess of poorly patched potholes of years gone by. I’m trying to get compensation from DOT. Yes, this low profile setup is not optimal for the overused, under maintained, and sorely needy parkways and tertiary roadways of the NY metropolitan area. But they do look great? !
Tire Automotive tire Alloy wheel Wheel Auto part
 

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Just had a sidewall bulge on a front Toyo tire. Fortunately when we got the car I purchased a road hazard warranty at Discount Tire. They replaced the tire but we got very lucky that one of their stores in another state had 1 Toyo tire and it was shipped to our store. Prior to them finding the tire Discount Tire checked with their supplier and it was out of stock with no expected availability date. Discount Tire does not normally stock this tire. I'm looking forward to replacing them!
 

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Just had a sidewall bulge on a front Toyo tire. Fortunately when we got the car I purchased a road hazard warranty at Discount Tire. They replaced the tire but we got very lucky that one of their stores in another state had 1 Toyo tire and it was shipped to our store. Prior to them finding the tire Discount Tire checked with their supplier and it was out of stock with no expected availability date. Discount Tire does not normally stock this tire. I'm looking forward to replacing them!
Yea my local tire shop doesn't stock this particular tire either, probably because it's an OE tire. Luckily the dealer had 1 in stock when mine blew.

When they pulled up the details they laughed at the cost, then the fact that Toyo gave a 0KM warranty on the tire.

As good as the 18s look I picked up some 16s from a guy who was selling brand new unused OEM winter wheels for his 4th gen 3. 4 brand new OEM wheels, Firestone winter force 2s (seems to be an okay tire, well rated for a budget tire on tire rack), and tmps for $1k.

Now just gotta avoid the remaining potholes
until they get fixed?
 

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Funny...I still have about 6 months on the lease of my 2017 Mazda 3 GT Hatch, and I had been going back and forth about whether to get a 2020 3 or CX-30. I had decided I really preferred the style of the 3, but this weekend hit such a collosol pothole that it almost knocked out my fillings. The 3 looks terrible with 16-inch wheels in my opinion, and living in NY I don't have a place to store winter tires, so I guess my next car will be the CX-30.
 

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Funny...I still have about 6 months on the lease of my 2017 Mazda 3 GT Hatch, and I had been going back and forth about whether to get a 2020 3 or CX-30. I had decided I really preferred the style of the 3, but this weekend hit such a collosol pothole that it almost knocked out my fillings. The 3 looks terrible with 16-inch wheels in my opinion, and living in NY I don't have a place to store winter tires, so I guess my next car will be the CX-30.
Wish I had bought a CX-30. I too was torn between the two of them. I only tested them on smooth roads and did not distinguish the 30 as riding any better. So I bought the 3 just because it's better looking and marginally better performing. After purchase I found the 3 to be about the harshest riding car I have ever owned. Having owned 5 Mazda's prior to this 2020 3, including a Protege, as well as Ist and 3rd gen 3s, I never suspected this would be the case. From all accounts I have read since, the 30,with its higher profile tires and greater suspension travel is better in this regard.

Add to this that the low demand of the 3 is likely to result in greater depreciation.
Anyone thinking about the 3 should expect/demand a huge discount.
 

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Just to add one more tale of woe... three tires shot since October, and here one $400 rim... Over 50 years of driving at least 18000 miles per year, never happened once. And yes, Arathol, I know how to avoid potholes... but not easy at night. One of the potholes wasn’t much of one, yet bubbled the sidewall, which makes me think crappy Toyo tire. The monster pothole that caused this was after a bit of snow and plowing on a Long Island parkway that is a mess of poorly patched potholes of years gone by. I’m trying to get compensation from DOT. Yes, this low profile setup is not optimal for the overused, under maintained, and sorely needy parkways and tertiary roadways of the NY metropolitan area. But they do look great? ! View attachment 275396
Long Island Parkway is the worst road I have ever been on. Took a cab from JFK up to Melville. I was in disbelief as the cab crashed from pothole to pothole.
 

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Hey Folks, if you have 18 inch wheels, upsize to 225/45/18 instead of the factory 215/45/18 size. It's not a huge change in tire size, but enough that it makes a significant dent in the pothole damages. I used to go through 2 tires a year. I haven't had a single blow out since I made the change and it rides better, and I got a small boost in highway fuel mileage with no losses in handling.

No wheel changes are required to do this, and it greatly expands your availability of in stock tires at the tire dealers.
 

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I used to upsize 1 notch like this as a matter of routine when replacing original tires. I liked the way it better filled the wheel wells, but the diff is only slight and will go unnoticed by most.
Effective gearing will be 1.4% taller and unsprung weight will go up a smidge. Speed will register 1 mph slower at 66, probably rendering the speedometer more accurate.

Overall any differences will be subtle and the brand/construction/tread of the tire will be more likely to affect things.
 

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.. I found the 3 to be about the harshest riding car I have ever owned. Having owned 5 Mazda's prior to this 2020 3, including a Protege, as well as Ist and 3rd gen 3s, I never suspected this would be the case...
I am surprised by your comment that the 2020 Mazda3 is a harsh riding car. I have found the opposite. I prefer a firmer ride and find the 2019 Mazda3 (Preferred AWD Sedan) to be much softer than my prior 2015 Mazda3.

Any chance the pressure in your tires is too high? You may also want to drive another Mazda3 from a dealer's lot. There may be an issue with your car.
 

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I am surprised by your comment that the 2020 Mazda3 is a harsh riding car. I have found the opposite. I prefer a firmer ride and find the 2019 Mazda3 (Preferred AWD Sedan) to be much softer than my prior 2015 Mazda3.

Any chance the pressure in your tires is too high? You may also want to drive another Mazda3 from a dealer's lot. There may be an issue with your car.
Hmmm. Maybe the sedan rides better than the hatch? AWD makes a difference?
My 14 sedan definitely took bumps better than my 20 hatch. I even went so far as to temporarily swap the custom 17 inch wheels off the the '14 to the '20. The '14 rode no worse with the 18s and the '20 rode no better on the 17s.

I don't mind a firm well controlled ride either, but I prefer to not be jarred over pot holes and feel every little imperfection in the pavement.
I have experimented with tire pressures to get the best combination of ride and handling for me. That is about 34/32/ vs 36/36, which helps a little.
I cannot imagine what kind of mechanical fault a new car might have that would make it ride worse than others of its type, but I would not say that it is not a possibility, as I have not ridden in or driven any other 4th gen 3s besides mine.

I appreciate your take on the matter and would like to hear what other new 3 owners think about their car's ride, especially those like yourself who have also owned a previous gen m3
 

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Hmmm. Maybe the sedan rides better than the hatch? AWD makes a difference?
My 14 sedan definitely took bumps better than my 20 hatch. I even went so far as to temporarily swap the custom 17 inch wheels off the the '14 to the '20. The '14 rode no worse in the 18s and the '20 rode no better on the 17s.

I don't mind a firm well controlled ride either, but I prefer to not be jarred over pot holes and feel every little imperfection in the pavement.
I have experimented with tire pressures to get the best combination of ride and handling for me. That is about 34/32/ vs 36/36, which helps a little.
I cannot imagine what kind of mechanical fault a new car might have that would make it ride worse than others of its type, but I cannot say that is not a possibility, as I have not ridden in or driven any other 4th gen 3s besides mine.

I appreciate your take on the matter and would like to hear what other new 3 owners think about their car's ride.
I have never driven the hatchback so I can’t compare the ride of the two. Now that you mention it, I think some of the early advertising indicated that the hatchback was intended to be more sporty while the sedan was intended to be more luxury.
 

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We've owned every generation of the '3' since '03, beginning with the Protege 5. Four years on each car; have now had the Gen 4 since May/19, 16000+ kms. Last one was the Gen 3 ('15). Always the hatch, top Cdn. trim (GT/premium).

The Gen. 4 is by far the least harsh, smoothest-riding, quietest of these cars. Each prior generation was a noticeable improvement over the last in that regard, but this one is a significant improvement in this respect.

This new car has had and has significant issues (1st year of production?), but in the above respect ... no contest.
 

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I have never driven the hatchback so I can’t compare the ride of the two. Now that you mention it, I think some of the early advertising indicated that the hatchback was intended to be more sporty while the sedan was intended to be more luxury.
Correct. I test drove both before buying the hatch.
The sedan drove similar to my old 6. Quieter cabin. The hatch had a bit more road noise but wanted to be thrown around a bit more.
AWD also drives more smoothly than FWD. FWD is deffs the peppier of the two tho as it seemed there was more power right at the wheels.
 
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