2004 to 2016 Mazda 3 Forum and Mazdaspeed 3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys- I'm looking for a car for my wife who was in a wreck that totaled her Scion aX. We've been looking for several months and she has fallen in love with the Mazda 3 Hatchback in red. Since we have been looking the prices here have crept up staying just out of reach for us by a few hundred dollars. I have been watching for a 2016 iTouring - she wants leather - dual zone - heated seats and mirrors and a sunroof. I want to make sure it has the 2.5L. We're paying cash.

I have come across a 2014 GT with all the bells and whistles with 48K miles for $13,600 (before dealer fees).

EDITED TO ADD: sGrand Touring model with Technology package.

Carfax has it as sold here in this local market - 2 owners. Personal use - No crashes. 1st owner - 13,231 miles/yr -- 2nd owner 6,022 miles/yr. Brakes rotors resurfaced on 10/11/19.

I'm not sure about a 5 year old car, and I am concerned about the amount of miles.

2014 was a redesign year - are there any bugs that needed to be worked out?

Am I better off holding out for a newer lower trim level with fewer miles (for more money)?

Any insight you guys can give me would be a great help.

Thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
The 2014s had little bugs like any new gen but nothing serious and it has all been pretty well addressed. I have a 15 and I had a few initial very minor problems.

These cars are overall very reliable and fun to drive. I have a hatch as well and it's a good car for sure. If you have to settle for the 2.0L, don't worry so much. It's not that bad! I'm happy with mine.

The rear brakes are a known trouble spot. The pads like to seize in the calipers and you end up replacing them very prematurely. Here's the secret - rust forms under the pad shims for some reason. I clean mine out with a bastard file, put a coating of grease under the shims and so far good to go. A yearly cleaning is not a bad idea.

Only other item is the infotainment software leaves a bit to be desired. It's better than some others out there, but it's not the best. Far better now with many updates. I highly recommend updating. You can also get Android auto/apple carplay retrofit now.

Overall, these cars are top notch for the cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have a 14 iGT with tech. No issues other than the slightly clunky infotainment system aforementioned. Pretty happy with it.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
I had a 2015 2.5 Touring Sedan that I passed down to my son. It had 100,000 miles when I got my 2019 3.
It was a great car and I expect it to last another 100,000 miles without major problems. I did have brake work done but nothing else. I am comfortable with my son having it with 100,000 miles and consider 50,000 miles low.

I loved the infotainment system and would prefer to have it in the new car. It may not have had the best resolution but I could easily operate it without looking at the screen.

The driving dynamics of the 3rd generation are much better then the 4th generation and that is the reason I drive a Mazda.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
The 2014s had little bugs like any new gen but nothing serious and it has all been pretty well addressed. I have a 15 and I had a few initial very minor problems.

These cars are overall very reliable and fun to drive. I have a hatch as well and it's a good car for sure. If you have to settle for the 2.0L, don't worry so much. It's not that bad! I'm happy with mine.

The rear brakes are a known trouble spot. The pads like to seize in the calipers and you end up replacing them very prematurely. Here's the secret - rust forms under the pad shims for some reason. I clean mine out with a bastard file, put a coating of grease under the shims and so far good to go. A yearly cleaning is not a bad idea.

Only other item is the infotainment software leaves a bit to be desired. It's better than some others out there, but it's not the best. Far better now with many updates. I highly recommend updating. You can also get Android auto/apple carplay retrofit now.

Overall, these cars are top notch for the cost.
Don't mean to hijack the thread but I thought the Android retrofit was not applicable to 14s. I have a 14 3i with no issues at all so far other than the infotainment system everyone has talked about. Where might the retrofit be found?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,635 Posts
Don't mean to hijack the thread but I thought the Android retrofit was not applicable to 14s. I have a 14 3i with no issues at all so far other than the infotainment system everyone has talked about. Where might the retrofit be found?
AA/CP is for all MazdaConnect-equipped cars, '14 included.

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for your replies guys. What I'm really after is opinions on a fully equipped 2014 with 48K miles vs a (say) 2016 iTouring with 28K miles or the likes.

Is the mileage and age that much of an issue that I would sacrifice the bells and whistles and pay 2-3K more?

All things being equal - is a 16 really any better of a build than a 14? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Newer and lower mileage is better for reliability. I would, however, prefer to have the 2.5 of the S over the 2.0 of the I.

The Touring had most of the good equipment.The big difference is Leatherette versus Leather. I prefer the Leatherette from Mazda. Mine was perfect after 100,000 miles where leather would likely wear over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Thanks! I must have been out of the loop on that. Appreciate it!:D
As mentioned, the AA retrofit works fine so long as you have the infotainment system. The kit is dealer parts and here in Canada it costs us $300 for the parts. You can either have the dealer do the install or there are excellent instructions in these forums to download the update and do it yourself.

Another option depending on the infotainment software version is to use the AIO tweaks (also in these forums) which is a few fun hacks. It adds AA but apple CP is not an option for this route. No retrofit or physical install is required.

I am using the AIO tweaks myself. I had some issues and found it to be a bit buggy. Keep in mind that this is an older version and my old phone may have trashed it. It was a phone that updates officially stopped with Android 6. I rooted it and put a custom 8.1 ROM on. It worked pretty well, but it did have its own bugs. In short, I'm not the one to ask about reliability until I get around to reinstalling the tweaks and AA. I hav a new phone with Android 9 now so it should play a bit nicer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
As mentioned, the AA retrofit works fine so long as you have the infotainment system. The kit is dealer parts and here in Canada it costs us $300 for the parts. You can either have the dealer do the install or there are excellent instructions in these forums to download the update and do it yourself.

Another option depending on the infotainment software version is to use the AIO tweaks (also in these forums) which is a few fun hacks. It adds AA but apple CP is not an option for this route. No retrofit or physical install is required.

I am using the AIO tweaks myself. I had some issues and found it to be a bit buggy. Keep in mind that this is an older version and my old phone may have trashed it. It was a phone that updates officially stopped with Android 6. I rooted it and put a custom 8.1 ROM on. It worked pretty well, but it did have its own bugs. In short, I'm not the one to ask about reliability until I get around to reinstalling the tweaks and AA. I hav a new phone with Android 9 now so it should play a bit nicer.
Thanks again. It helps not having to reinvent the wheel with stuff like this. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
Okay, I've got a fully loaded 2014. I've got 213k on it, the brake thing is a bit true, they don't sieze per se, but they do drag. I fixed this by loosening the ebrake a little as it seemed to be related. But I've still got the original front brakes. Factory batteries are known to fail in the 3-5 year range and replacing them with better aftermarkets are around 300 bucks. The only other thing to watch out for is the rear hatch switch seal has a tendency to split and cause the backup camera to have issues since it's electrical is in series with the camera. This requires replacing the whole switch which is a 75 dollar part at the dealer. Plus 1.5 hours if you have a socket set and a screwdriver and mechanical enough to figure it out. 1 hour labor at the shop. The rest of the car other than the infotainment screen thing which is covered regardless of mileage has been basically awesome.

The only thing I'd recommend for your wifes car though, is when you go to replace the tires, increase the size to 225/45/18 instead of factory 215/45/18. Wider selection of tires, and the ride is quieter and smoother without any noticeable loss in traction. My gas mileage even went up when accounting for the 2.6% difference in size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Okay, I've got a fully loaded 2014. I've got 213k on it, the brake thing is a bit true, they don't sieze per se, but they do drag. I fixed this by loosening the ebrake a little as it seemed to be related. But I've still got the original front brakes. Factory batteries are known to fail in the 3-5 year range and replacing them with better aftermarkets are around 300 bucks. The only other thing to watch out for is the rear hatch switch seal has a tendency to split and cause the backup camera to have issues since it's electrical is in series with the camera. This requires replacing the whole switch which is a 75 dollar part at the dealer. Plus 1.5 hours if you have a socket set and a screwdriver and mechanical enough to figure it out. 1 hour labor at the shop. The rest of the car other than the infotainment screen thing which is covered regardless of mileage has been basically awesome.

The only thing I'd recommend for your wifes car though, is when you go to replace the tires, increase the size to 225/45/18 instead of factory 215/45/18. Wider selection of tires, and the ride is quieter and smoother without any noticeable loss in traction. My gas mileage even went up when accounting for the 2.6% difference in size.

Your comments remind me how lucky we are. We have vehicles we love to drive that are se reliable that after 200,000 miles the needed repairs total a few hundred dollars.

BMW, Porsche, MINI and a few other brands have owners with similar enjoyment from driving yet after 200,000 miles, they would be talking about needed repairs in the thousands, if not tens of thousands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Okay, I've got a fully loaded 2014. I've got 213k on it, the brake thing is a bit true, they don't sieze per se, but they do drag. I fixed this by loosening the ebrake a little as it seemed to be related. But I've still got the original front brakes. Factory batteries are known to fail in the 3-5 year range and replacing them with better aftermarkets are around 300 bucks. The only other thing to watch out for is the rear hatch switch seal has a tendency to split and cause the backup camera to have issues since it's electrical is in series with the camera. This requires replacing the whole switch which is a 75 dollar part at the dealer. Plus 1.5 hours if you have a socket set and a screwdriver and mechanical enough to figure it out. 1 hour labor at the shop. The rest of the car other than the infotainment screen thing which is covered regardless of mileage has been basically awesome.

The only thing I'd recommend for your wifes car though, is when you go to replace the tires, increase the size to 225/45/18 instead of factory 215/45/18. Wider selection of tires, and the ride is quieter and smoother without any noticeable loss in traction. My gas mileage even went up when accounting for the 2.6% difference in size.
What's your climate like? I've definitely had seizing of pads due to corrosion buildup between caliper and shim. I've had to beat them out with a hammer! I suspect it's because we have a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter. Several friends have also had the same problem.

I'm just curious. Lost a set of rear pads with 45k kms on them, still a sore spot for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
What's your climate like? I've definitely had seizing of pads due to corrosion buildup between caliper and shim. I've had to beat them out with a hammer! I suspect it's because we have a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter. Several friends have also had the same problem.

I'm just curious. Lost a set of rear pads with 45k kms on them, still a sore spot for me.

I live in the place that many good old cars come from. :) California central valley into the bay area. I think my car has been exposed to salt maybe twice up in the mountains. Plenty of dust exposure, but very little salt. The rear calipers look like they could use an anti-corrosion coating of sorts in the rougher climates. My first set of rears did go around 29k but then I got 93k out of the second set and I'm on my third still. My car doesn't even burn oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
I live in the place that many good old cars come from. :) California central valley into the bay area. I think my car has been exposed to salt maybe twice up in the mountains. Plenty of dust exposure, but very little salt. The rear calipers look like they could use an anti-corrosion coating of sorts in the rougher climates. My first set of rears did go around 29k but then I got 93k out of the second set and I'm on my third still. My car doesn't even burn oil.
I bet that's it. I don't have any other rust to speak of, but I do rust proofing every fall.

And yeah mine doesn't burn any oil either :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
The 2014s had little bugs like any new gen but nothing serious and it has all been pretty well addressed. I have a 15 and I had a few initial very minor problems.

These cars are overall very reliable and fun to drive. I have a hatch as well and it's a good car for sure. If you have to settle for the 2.0L, don't worry so much. It's not that bad! I'm happy with mine.

The rear brakes are a known trouble spot. The pads like to seize in the calipers and you end up replacing them very prematurely. Here's the secret - rust forms under the pad shims for some reason. I clean mine out with a bastard file, put a coating of grease under the shims and so far good to go. A yearly cleaning is not a bad idea.

Only other item is the infotainment software leaves a bit to be desired. It's better than some others out there, but it's not the best. Far better now with many updates. I highly recommend updating. You can also get Android auto/apple carplay retrofit now.

Overall, these cars are top notch for the cost.
Regarding the Android upgrade. Is that something an owner can perform or does it require special equipment only available to dealers?
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top