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Hey people. Ive been searching for a manual 4 banger for a while and found a local 2014 mazda 3. The owner said a bunch of trips to colorado is why it has 149k on the odometer.

I know these are well built cars, and it would have been up to the owners maintenance if this is a good one..
But how about the used value? Edmunds value is much lower than Kbb, and ebays completed sold auctions dont have any high mile 2014's..

I just realized I cant post links here yet. But does the asking price of $6000 sound high for a clean one owner 2014 mazda 3 with 149K?

Thanks!
 

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Are you mechanically inclined? Things start going wrong in that mileage range. I've taken a few cars to big mileage, the last to 245k. If you can't do an alternator or radiator swap, steer clear of mileage that high.

I just paid $15k for a 25k mi 2016 MT i Touring with the PEP trim in a nationwide search of value/dollar. Given a $1500/yr/15k mi rule of thumb:

150k-25k = 125k mi to use
125k/15k = 8.3 years of use to come
8.3 years at $1500/yr = $12500 of use
Comparing to mine, $15k-12.5k = $2500 value

Add on top some trim value and base value of the car no matter the mileage, my goal would be $3500-$4000 for a 150k mi vehicle. Whether sellers agree is one thing. But the reality of the value of the transportation is another.
 

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Are you mechanically inclined? Things start going wrong in that mileage range. I've taken a few cars to big mileage, the last to 245k. If you can't do an alternator or radiator swap, steer clear of mileage that high.

I just paid $15k for a 25k mi 2016 MT i Touring with the PEP trim in a nationwide search of value/dollar. Given a $1500/yr/15k mi rule of thumb:

150k-25k = 125k mi to use
125k/15k = 8.3 years of use to come
8.3 years at $1500/yr = $12500 of use
Comparing to mine, $15k-12.5k = $2500 value

Add on top some trim value and base value of the car no matter the mileage, my goal would be $3500-$4000 for a 150k mi vehicle. Whether sellers agree is one thing. But the reality of the value of the transportation is another.
Yes I am mechanically inclined.. But I don't understand your method for determining value.. Link? Edmunds.

But I'm right there with you at $3500-$4000.. In fact I thought maybe $5000 because seems selling prices are higher around this crazy college town.. Ive made a bunch of offers on other cars that where in the higher KBB range only to be ignored..

But here's the thing. And I apologize before hand, but the owner is female and has done all the maintenance herself.. Red flag! No major repairs, so that means clutch and who knows what next.. Yeah, $3500-$4000 but how do you make a offer that's 40% lower? lol

https://iowacity.craigslist.org/cto/d/2014-mazda-3/6736395106.html
 

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Did you end up buying it?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Not a bad deal for that car. If it's the base model then it's a little premium unless he's got a solid maintenance history on the car. If it's a grand tour S its a steal again depending on the maintenance history.
 

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I'll have some of whatever he's smoking please
For modern cars, maintenance means a lot more than miles. I'd pay 5k more for a car with 150k and a full history than one without.
You guys are on to something. The only reason I bought this mazda is because i couldn't find a used car that suited me. And in fact it was hard to find a 2014+ mazda 3 with records, this one i bought did

I had a 7th gen Honda accord, which is 2003 to 2007. I just spent 3k on parts and a week vacation having fun install them. À month later I got rear end and totaled.

In 6 weeks I could not find another 03-07 car with a good service history and decent condition. I found one but it was sold the day before...

I gave up after 6; weeks and took the loss as I need a daily and driving my track car was getting old fast.
 

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You guys are on to something. The only reason I bought this mazda is because i couldn't find a used car that suited me. And in fact it was hard to find a 2014+ mazda 3 with records, this one i bought did

I had a 7th gen Honda accord, which is 2003 to 2007. I just spent 3k on parts and a week vacation having fun install them. À month later I got rear end and totaled.

In 6 weeks I could not find another 03-07 car with a good service history and decent condition. I found one but it was sold the day before...

I gave up after 6; weeks and took the loss as I need a daily and driving my track car was getting old fast.

I hear ya, that mazda will likely last you till 300-400k without any major non wear item issues. The only things I'd expect from a 2014 with those miles would be battery, transmission fluid, maybe plugs, and if he's been doing CO and back, a wheel bearing or two(which looks really easy to replace, 4 bolts and out). I'd also get the engine bay and under carriage steam cleaned just purely for salt reasons as the CA mountains use salt on the roads during the winter, but they only had one good winter between 2014 and now. The rear ebrake cable on one side likes to be off a little bit. So don't be too surprised if you find yourself replacing a seat of rear brakes too soon. When you find the one that's got faster wear on it adjust the ebrake cable back a notch.

Other than that, it actually sounds like you got a 10k car for a steal.
 

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I hear ya, that mazda will likely last you till 300-400k without any major non wear item issues. The only things I'd expect from a 2014 with those miles would be battery, transmission fluid, maybe plugs, and if he's been doing CO and back, a wheel bearing or two(which looks really easy to replace, 4 bolts and out). I'd also get the engine bay and under carriage steam cleaned just purely for salt reasons as the CA mountains use salt on the roads during the winter, but they only had one good winter between 2014 and now. The rear ebrake cable on one side likes to be off a little bit. So don't be too surprised if you find yourself replacing a seat of rear brakes too soon. When you find the one that's got faster wear on it adjust the ebrake cable back a notch.

Other than that, it actually sounds like you got a 10k car for a steal.
I have two kids that each own a Gen1 vehicle, so I can't exactly compare to Gen3 vehicles. In the 150k range would you expect to have to change the thermostat and possibly the timing chain and tensioner? I fully expect these engines to give us lots of mileage, but I wouldn't expect all the parts to last that long.

My son's thermostat went out before 125k miles so we replaced it with an OEM thermostat. My daughter got a new thermostat at 155k miles because her head gasket blew and we ended up doing an engine swap and replaced a bunch of stuff because it was really easy to do with the engine out of the car. I tried to set her up to go the next 150k miles doing very minimal maintenance.
 

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I'm late to the party, but I always tell people KBB is for suckers because the values are always inflated. NADA is more reliable, realistic, and closer to the Dealer Black Book values.

As far as miles, my MZ3 has 165K miles and has been maintained that a lot of vehicles with half its mileage. Just remember this guy: Irv Gordon, Guinness World Record Holder Who Put 3.2 Million Miles on His Volvo P1800, Has Died

I won't even go into this other than to say. i've always sold a vehicle for more than book and I've paid more than book too. Every vehicle has a set of technicals that increase value. Rust, mechanical wear, paint wear. These all apply when looking at a vehicle. The Rust and water wear is the biggest one, followed by the rest. If you find a porsche that's never been driven in the rain for example. It's already worth 5k over book.
 

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I won't even go into this other than to say. i've always sold a vehicle for more than book and I've paid more than book too. Every vehicle has a set of technicals that increase value. Rust, mechanical wear, paint wear. These all apply when looking at a vehicle. The Rust and water wear is the biggest one, followed by the rest. If you find a porsche that's never been driven in the rain for example. It's already worth 5k over book.

Yes, value is very subjective; however, I know car salesman who internally roll their eyes at anyone who comes in yammering how they went to KBB and "know the real value of the vehicle". Fortunately, where I live, rust isn't a common issue although I did grow up in the Rust Belt.
 

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Depends on the dealership. But in general they won't even buy it from someone unless it's got solid money on the hood for ROI so you have some wiggle room there.

If you are talking about private sale though, there are always variables. Things like a new motor or motor upgrades can change the price a bit. Especially in the turbo world. Where upgraded pistons can mean a ton in reliability.
 

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I'm late to the party, but I always tell people KBB is for suckers because the values are always inflated. NADA is more reliable, realistic, and closer to the Dealer Black Book values.
KBB used to be good... decades ago. It was bought out by Cox Enterprises 2010, who coincidentally owns Autotrader too. Seems like a conflict of interest to me that a company selling used cars can also manipulate the [percieved] values of them too. It's in their best interest to keep the used car market thriving.

Compared to other countries (especially in Europe) used car prices are crazy expensive in the U.S.
 

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KBB used to be good... decades ago. It was bought out by Cox Enterprises 2010, who coincidentally owns Autotrader too. Seems like a conflict of interest to me that a company selling used cars can also manipulate the [percieved] values of them too. It's in their best interest to keep the used car market thriving.

Compared to other countries (especially in Europe) used car prices are crazy expensive in the U.S.
We use boosters on this. A. We have emissions which makes our cars more expensive by default. B. we actually buy back old cars which bumps up the base price of all cars. C. our used part market is huge and if a car is totalled, 9 times out of ten it's still worth at the very base 2-5k all the way up to 100k in parts and scrap.
 
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