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2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
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Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood


Michelin CrossClimate2's (P205/60/16) on Liquid Metal Shift's. Was researching winter tires and found these all-seasons that should be more than adequate. And with great reviews and ranked #1 by Tirerack. Went down from 18's to 16's to improve the ride, and it certainly does. Quieter too. Wheels were $84 at DiscountTire, after they graciously substituted some wheels in stock for the ones on sale. Saved 8 pounds per wheel. And to boot the spoke pattern is Mazda like.
 

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Yea I'm trying to avoid rolling cause that's just more money and headache. Rather just bolt up and go.
Rolling cost much less than powder coating. But yeah, avoiding both is the easiest route. I know most people get away with these specs but I rubbed in the rear left on dips with passengers with 215/45/18x8 +40 on eibachs. YMMV.


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So decided to go with rota grid bronze in 17x8 +44. What would you guys recommend for tire size? The calculator I used states 245/45 would give me exactly the same speed reading. Speedo reads just like stock 16".
 

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So decided to go with rota grid bronze in 17x8 +44. What would you guys recommend for tire size? The calculator I used states 245/45 would give me exactly the same speed reading. Speedo reads just like stock 16".
If you’re planning on lowering it, you will need to roll or maybe pull/cut your fenders depending on how low your set up is.

225/40/17 or 235/40/17 or 235/45/17 might work better on a lowered set up.

My tires/fenders got destroyed because I wasn’t prepared for how little clearance I had on my coilover set up.

My fenders kept slicing my tires on my drive home after the coilover installation and so I took them off the next day.
My little research on my Ksport coilovers led to about 2k down the drain.
(Parts/Labor)

Tire Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire
 

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So decided to go with rota grid bronze in 17x8 +44. What would you guys recommend for tire size? The calculator I used states 245/45 would give me exactly the same speed reading. Speedo reads just like stock 16".
Depends on what your priorities are. 245s on the 8" rims if you want a nice ride. If you want good turn in and response, 225s would be better.
If you’re planning on lowering it, you will need to roll or maybe pull/cut your fenders depending on how low your set up is.

225/40/17 or 235/40/17 or 235/45/17 might work better on a lowered set up.

My tires/fenders got destroyed because I wasn’t prepared for how little clearance I had on my coilover set up.
Your tires got destroyed because your setup is way too wide for your car. 245/45 with a +44 offset will be just fine even lowered.
 

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Depends on what your priorities are. 245s on the 8" rims if you want a nice ride. If you want good turn in and response, 225s would be better.

Your tires got destroyed because your setup is way too wide for your car. 245/45 with a +44 offset will be just fine even lowered.
You might be right. I think at this point, I will be pushing it out more with spacers to go with my fenders. A higher offset might’ve prevented the rubbing.
 

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You might be right. I think at this point, I will be pushing it out more with spacers to go with my fenders. A higher offset might’ve prevented the rubbing.
Yes, +25 isn't do-able at all without pulling the fenders.
Has anybody explained to you the problems that come with adding excessive offset? If not you really should do some research on changing the scrub radius. Going another inch or two outwards with spacers is going to put stress on the front hubs and bearings, stress the steering rack and cause some really annoying bump steer. Put simply wider is not better.
 

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Yes, +25 isn't do-able at all without pulling the fenders.
Has anybody explained to you the problems that come with adding excessive offset? If not you really should do some research on changing the scrub radius. Going another inch or two outwards with spacers is going to put stress on the front hubs and bearings, stress the steering rack and cause some really annoying bump steer. Put simply wider is not better.
Thanks for the suggestions. My goal isn’t to prove whether or not going wider is better.
I like the look of it and it’s what I’ll risk in getting there.

Same reason why I went with my jdm axela headlight set up. I recalled you saying “Why on earth would you want to eliminate part of your headlight system? If you are losing headlight functionality you are doing it wrong.....”
My low beams HID works really well and has such an improvement btw. Compared to what I had previously, I’m glad I took the risk on installing these jdm headlights.
Taking risks has its rewards if you plan accordingly. Losing that high beam hasn’t been much of a factor. You simply cannot compare the two headlights. The jdm axela headlights just looks much better and functions better than the oem halogen headlights.

Back to the topic…
I actually did try to ask in another post but it doesn’t seem to garner any responses.


I don’t plan to track my car or drive aggressively in anyway. This is my daily driver and I plan to make this wider set up work. Wider fenders and spacers will work if done correctly. I wished there was more responses of correct approaches in widening the wheels rather than shooting it down due preferences.

I believe Tylerbeard has done this successfully to his third gen hatchback and I’ll do the same.
With so many cars wide-bodying their cars well, why wouldn’t it work on a mazda 3.
 

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Depends on what your priorities are. 245s on the 8" rims if you want a nice ride. If you want good turn in and response, 225s would be better.
Yea I'm looking for decent ride and looks. If I cant seem to find many pictures of 245/45. I dont want too much tire look. I feel just with a good tire the response will be good regardless. The main question would it rub with my ride height?
 

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Yea I'm looking for decent ride and looks. If I cant seem to find many pictures of 245/45. I dont want too much tire look. I feel just with a good tire the response will be good regardless. The main question would it rub with my ride height?
Play with a wheel/tire calculator. The only time I had stock fenders with eibachs was with the oem 18x7 +50 wheels and a 15mm spacer. It rubbed in the rear for me. Pretty sure it will rub for you. 245mm is too wide for this car without some mods.



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Same reason why I went with my jdm axela headlight set up. I recalled you saying “Why on earth would you want to eliminate part of your headlight system? If you are losing headlight functionality you are doing it wrong.....”
My low beams HID works really well and has such an improvement btw. Compared to what I had previously, I’m glad I took the risk on installing these jdm headlights.
Taking risks has its rewards if you plan accordingly. Losing that high beam hasn’t been much of a factor. You simply cannot compare the two headlights. The jdm axela headlights just looks much better and functions better than the oem halogen headlights.
Doing things halfassed and calling it good because you don't know how to do it right is not the way to get it done. So your low beams are better, but your high beams don't work at all....how is that a win? Your car came from the factory with high beams and low beams. If it goes for a safety inspection that will be checked and failed. You might even want to check the laws where you live.....
24406. Except as otherwise provided, the headlamps, or other
auxiliary driving lamps, or a combination thereof, on a motor vehicle
during darkness shall be so arranged that the driver may select at
will between distributions of light projected to different
elevations, and the lamps may, in addition, be so arranged that the
selection can be made automatically.
24407. Multiple-beam road lighting equipment shall be designed and
aimed as follows:
(a) There shall be an uppermost distribution of light, or
composite beam, so aimed and of such intensity as to reveal persons
and vehicles at a distance of at least 350 feet ahead for all
conditions of loading.
(b) There shall be a lowermost distribution of light, or composite
beam so aimed and of sufficient intensity to reveal a person or
vehicle at a distance of at least 100 feet ahead. On a straight level
road under any condition of loading none of the high intensity
portion of the beam shall be directed to strike the eyes of an
approaching driver.


Your headlights are by design multiple beam units and therefore required to function as such.
There is a right way to install the two bulb system into a car that came with a four bulb system so that full functionality will be maintained. It can be done if you take the time to learn how......

Back to the topic…
I actually did try to ask in another post but it doesn’t seem to garner any responses.


I don’t plan to track my car or drive aggressively in anyway. This is my daily driver and I plan to make this wider set up work. Wider fenders and spacers will work if done correctly. I wished there was more responses of correct approaches in widening the wheels rather than shooting it down due preferences.

I believe Tylerbeard has done this successfully to his third gen hatchback and I’ll do the same.
With so many cars wide-bodying their cars well, why wouldn’t it work on a mazda 3.
Getting it done and doing it successfully are two different things. You don't seem to know anything about this and you asked for advice. You also don't seem to understand that this is not about "preferences". There is no "correct approach" to adding 50mm of offset that won't have adverse effects. You are changing your scrub radius 2" or more. This can cause directional instability and wandering, loss of braking stability, uneven tire wear, bump steer, etc. You asked the questions, these are the answers. You don't have to like them.....but thats how it works.....
Sure, lots of cars are "wide bodied". Many are just hacked together crap that looks good sitting in a parking lot but drive like crap over anything but the smoothest surface. The ones that are not have had a lot of expensive work done on the front end.
 

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Doing things halfassed and calling it good because you don't know how to do it right is not the way to get it done. So your low beams are better, but your high beams don't work at all....how is that a win? Your car came from the factory with high beams and low beams. If it goes for a safety inspection that will be checked and failed. You might even want to check the laws where you live.....
24406. Except as otherwise provided, the headlamps, or other
auxiliary driving lamps, or a combination thereof, on a motor vehicle
during darkness shall be so arranged that the driver may select at
will between distributions of light projected to different
elevations, and the lamps may, in addition, be so arranged that the
selection can be made automatically.
24407. Multiple-beam road lighting equipment shall be designed and
aimed as follows:
(a) There shall be an uppermost distribution of light, or
composite beam, so aimed and of such intensity as to reveal persons
and vehicles at a distance of at least 350 feet ahead for all
conditions of loading.
(b) There shall be a lowermost distribution of light, or composite
beam so aimed and of sufficient intensity to reveal a person or
vehicle at a distance of at least 100 feet ahead. On a straight level
road under any condition of loading none of the high intensity
portion of the beam shall be directed to strike the eyes of an
approaching driver.


Your headlights are by design multiple beam units and therefore required to function as such.
There is a right way to install the two bulb system into a car that came with a four bulb system so that full functionality will be maintained. It can be done if you take the time to learn how......


Getting it done and doing it successfully are two different things. You don't seem to know anything about this and you asked for advice. You also don't seem to understand that this is not about "preferences". There is no "correct approach" to adding 50mm of offset that won't have adverse effects. You are changing your scrub radius 2" or more. This can cause directional instability and wandering, loss of braking stability, uneven tire wear, bump steer, etc. You asked the questions, these are the answers. You don't have to like them.....but thats how it works.....
Sure, lots of cars are "wide bodied". Many are just hacked together crap that looks good sitting in a parking lot but drive like crap over anything but the smoothest surface. The ones that are not have had a lot of expensive work done on the front end.
Doing things halfassed and calling it good because you don't know how to do it right is not the way to get it done. So your low beams are better, but your high beams don't work at all....how is that a win? Your car came from the factory with high beams and low beams. If it goes for a safety inspection that will be checked and failed. You might even want to check the laws where you live.....
24406. Except as otherwise provided, the headlamps, or other
auxiliary driving lamps, or a combination thereof, on a motor vehicle
during darkness shall be so arranged that the driver may select at
will between distributions of light projected to different
elevations, and the lamps may, in addition, be so arranged that the
selection can be made automatically.
24407. Multiple-beam road lighting equipment shall be designed and
aimed as follows:
(a) There shall be an uppermost distribution of light, or
composite beam, so aimed and of such intensity as to reveal persons
and vehicles at a distance of at least 350 feet ahead for all
conditions of loading.
(b) There shall be a lowermost distribution of light, or composite
beam so aimed and of sufficient intensity to reveal a person or
vehicle at a distance of at least 100 feet ahead. On a straight level
road under any condition of loading none of the high intensity
portion of the beam shall be directed to strike the eyes of an
approaching driver.


Your headlights are by design multiple beam units and therefore required to function as such.
There is a right way to install the two bulb system into a car that came with a four bulb system so that full functionality will be maintained. It can be done if you take the time to learn how......


Getting it done and doing it successfully are two different things. You don't seem to know anything about this and you asked for advice. You also don't seem to understand that this is not about "preferences". There is no "correct approach" to adding 50mm of offset that won't have adverse effects. You are changing your scrub radius 2" or more. This can cause directional instability and wandering, loss of braking stability, uneven tire wear, bump steer, etc. You asked the questions, these are the answers. You don't have to like them.....but thats how it works.....
Sure, lots of cars are "wide bodied". Many are just hacked together crap that looks good sitting in a parking lot but drive like crap over anything but the smoothest surface. The ones that are not have had a lot of expensive work done on the front end.
Rand0m:🙏 Thank you for saying that. I appreciate the consideration.

Arothol: At the end of the day, what I do to my car is what will make me happy. I could care less of who calls my build half-assed. Imagine if the community of folks following your every words everytime they hit an obstacle. Nothing will get done. That's the reality of work. Nothing is ever perfect but you do your best. Like I've said previously to your redundant remarks. Our cars are perfectly fine out the lot, why on earth would anyone modify it?

The win is having a better light beam from my HID projectors. It looks better and functions better. I rarely use my highbeams. If you think that having the oem headlights looks and works better; then I definitely do not want your advice in aesthetic tastes. You should understand that everyone has different preferences for cars. Without even looking at your car, I can already tell how boring your choices would be. But hey, I don't need to tell you how and what you should do to your car. That is something you should remind yourself. Different people choose to do different things to their car and is not what you would do and that's ok. Post photos of your car and I could go to town on how awful and boring it'll be.

Just because I ask for advice doesn't mean I have to take every single one's advice. If I disagree, I can do that. You're just not use to someone replying like that because you carry a super moderator badge. Means nothing to me. You need to learn to give the common decency to not act like you're better than everyone. I want advice but I can also respond and choose the advice I get.

When I am done with my car, I plan to leave an impression on everyone despite what you think about it. I am doing things that's never been done on the third gen Mazda. You go and live out your conservative approach to your car. You tell yourself that your car will be remembered based on the things you've done to it. I'm doing what I love and nobody will ever take that away from me.
 

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You asked for advice, you got advice and were told what you can expect from your ideas on to modify your car. If you don't like being told that what you are planning could have negative effects, well, that is your problem, not mine. Perhaps you should plan and research things for yourself before you start. Do what you want, its your car.
My car isn't really conservative, but its not a clapped out hard parker. It was put together to drive, not to cruise around the mall and "make impressions on people"...whatever that means......LOL..... It has what it needs to get the job done and nothing that it doesn't. I spent my money on stuff that is functional and actually improves the driving dynamics of the car.
Things that have never been done? Don't think so.......Everything has been done before, more than once, by somebody. Sorry but you're hardly the first or the last that will rivet on a set of fake fenders and bolt on super wide tires because racecar....
 

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There's absolutely no problem in responding to anything online. Let it be my problem then. Like I said, I can choose to follow whichever advice that comes along and I can respond in anyway I wish. Clapped-out hard parker or not, I could care less what you think. You obviously lack any tastes beyond stock and safe mods. PLEASE.... what makes you think I didn't try and search for the answers?
If you wanted more performance, why did you get a mazda 3? It's a relatively safe car to begin with. It's not revered as a performance car. You should've bought yourself something else before you professing around with that performance talk. At least an rx-7 if you want to stick with mazdas.
Yes, the choices and parts I will be putting on my car isn't found on a lot of third gen mazda 3's. No need to be sorry because, I could care less.
 

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Shadowscheme, no need for attacks bud. I can tell you are new or haven’t read many old threads here by how you’re taking arathol’s criticisms. I suggest joining the “3rd Gen Mazda3 (14-18 Spec)” Facebook group. There is a bit of everything there from stanced to boosted 3rd gens. It’s certainly more active.


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