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I switched to full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil last week (Kendall brand, from the dealer), and also had them toss on the OEM wheel locks. I noticed over the course of this last tank and a half that my gas mileage has taken a hit. I can't imagine the problem being the oil. Does adding wheel locks throw off the balance of the wheels to the point where a rebalance would be advisable?

the dip in mileage could be other things too... my driving style (which I've tried to keep consistent in order to compare it to my pre-synthetic/wheel lock mileage), the local blend of gas (I had better not be getting watered down gas!), or the way my fuel gauge readout behaves. I've driven ~95 miles on this tank, and it's already at the 3/4th mark...

in my old 3i, you could get up to 130 miles before the needle would even fall under F. In the MS3, it falls under F at 50 miles or so, and then it rapidly drops a few bars over the next 40 miles.
 

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The One and Only
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Could also be the type of gas you are using. If anything synthetic oil should of bumped up your gas mileage since there is less friction in the engine. The wheel locks don't do anything unless they weigh like 20 pounds. lol
 

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I switched to full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil last week (Kendall brand, from the dealer), and also had them toss on the OEM wheel locks. I noticed over the course of this last tank and a half that my gas mileage has taken a hit. I can't imagine the problem being the oil. Does adding wheel locks throw off the balance of the wheels to the point where a rebalance would be advisable?

the dip in mileage could be other things too... my driving style (which I've tried to keep consistent in order to compare it to my pre-synthetic/wheel lock mileage), the local blend of gas (I had better not be getting watered down gas!), or the way my fuel gauge readout behaves. I've driven ~95 miles on this tank, and it's already at the 3/4th mark...

in my old 3i, you could get up to 130 miles before the needle would even fall under F. In the MS3, it falls under F at 50 miles or so, and then it rapidly drops a few bars over the next 40 miles.
You'd have to really drive a few tanks and in a very consistent manner to observe this. If your commute involves over 80% highway, this is pretty easy to monitor. The more city driving you throw in the more your luck really depends on traffic lights, how you drive, etc.

If I'm taking a roadtrip, I can be over 90 miles before the first block from Full falls. If I'm doing city driving, it's not uncommon for it to take 40-60 miles before the first block disappears.

Also, once the gas station pump clicked off early. I know this because my DTE was below 400 and it clicked off 11 gallons at around 2 blocks (that's closer to 12.5). It's documented on my 4/12/2010 fillup on fuelly, which made my subsequent mpg look incredibly low.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I noticed the Average Fuel Economy readout on the MID is a lot more generous than what I'm getting via Fuelly. One time the readout told me I was getting ~27mpg, and I really got 24mpg according to Fuelly. I'm coming from a 3i, so I haven't exactly figured out the best technique for getting the best fuel economy

My dip in fuel mileage may also be related to me experimenting how to drive this car under "normal" conditions. In the 2.0L, I used to putt around town in 5th gear, hovering around 2K RPM, and downshifting appropriately to pass or accelerate. Does the same thing apply to this car? Or should I really part-throttle my way up to 3500 RPM before shifting? I've been doing some reading on the forums saying that driving at any less RPMs puts a lot of load on the engine... but holding ~3000+RPM for city driving seems a little harsh, no? Wouldn't sustaining increased RPMs like that eat up a lot of fuel as well?

I'm still learning how to drive this car, in a way, so all advice and insight is welcome!

(and after giving it much thought, I figured rebalancing the wheel because of added wheel locks wouldn't do anything because the wheel locks, or any other lug nuts for that matter, aren't even attached during the rebalancing process :yes:)
 

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My 2010 Mazdaspeed3 averages 32 on the Hwy. with a a INJEN CAI and Dino Oil. Wheel locks have nothing to do with it. I have the wheel locks on mine also. It has to be your driving habits.
 

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I use 5W-30 Ultra synthetic in My 2016 Mazda 3 I did notice that Mazda recommends 20 weight oil is there a draw back to not using what Mazda recommends?
 
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