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This is the same approach my dealer is taking. The description is spot on for the "pop" noise. Thanks for posting. Just as an FYI, the part that you linked on Walmart's website isn't the part that is on the TSB.
 

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Yeah, I realized that when I searched the part number, a different one came up on the walmart website.
 

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I received an email back from my service adviser and he referred me to this screenshot of that bulletin that was just posted.


Apparently my VIN classifies me in the "C" category and that means the only lower arm bushing would be replaced. However, the bulletin cautions us to install this by saying


Would you guys still recommend having the dealership replace those Lower Arm Bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I received an email back from my service adviser and he referred me to this screenshot of that bulletin that was just posted.


Apparently my VIN classifies me in the "C" category and that means the only lower arm bushing would be replaced. However, the bulletin cautions us to install this by saying


Would you guys still recommend having the dealership replace those Lower Arm Bushings?
That TSB might need some VIN updates. I had seen batches of JP Built BM & BN come w/ spring protectors. Earlier ones were all w/o. Oddly, my bud's '18 CX5 KF, VIN unlisted in TSB, came w/o the rubber & had the clunk. Dealership just installed those & silenced it.
If yours doesn't have those protectors from the factory like mine, I'd have em installed 1st before the control arm bushes. Just my 2cents.

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I received an email back from my service adviser and he referred me to this screenshot of that bulletin that was just posted.


Apparently my VIN classifies me in the "C" category and that means the only lower arm bushing would be replaced. However, the bulletin cautions us to install this by saying


Would you guys still recommend having the dealership replace those Lower Arm Bushings?
Does your car have the spring protectors already installed? I would ask them to do the easy stuff first.
 

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Update:

Clunking noise is still present. It only happens on my neighborhood road. There is a dip in the road and that's where I hear the noise. However, the noise is not present over bumps or speed bumps. If I drive slow through the dip, then I can pass without having the clunk. I'm considering if I should even bother taking it in at this point.
 

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Does your car have the spring protectors already installed? I would ask them to do the easy stuff first.
Not entirely sure if it came with them. And since it looks like they sit on the spring itself, I have a feeling it won't have any since I didnt see any get put on my H&R springs when they were installed.

That TSB might need some VIN updates. I had seen batches of JP Built BM & BN come w/ spring protectors. Earlier ones were all w/o. Oddly, my bud's '18 CX5 KF, VIN unlisted in TSB, came w/o the rubber & had the clunk. Dealership just installed those & silenced it.
If yours doesn't have those protectors from the factory like mine, I'd have em installed 1st before the control arm bushes. Just my 2cents.

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I brought that up to the adviser and he said they can look at it if I brought it in and that he would let the tech see what needed to be done without referencing the TSB at first.

I'm debating if I should bring it in just for that control arm bushing if they say I don't need that bushing for Category C vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
Not entirely sure if it came with them. And since it looks like they sit on the spring itself, I have a feeling it won't have any since I didnt see any get put on my H&R springs when they were installed.



I brought that up to the adviser and he said they can look at it if I brought it in and that he would let the tech see what needed to be done without referencing the TSB at first.

I'm debating if I should bring it in just for that control arm bushing if they say I don't need that bushing for Category C vehicles.
I've always advised those planning springs to grab a pair of KDY534081 spring protectors from the dealership. The current Skyactivs are using a higher durometer/more rigid type of composite material for their strutmounts. These are less forgiving & would cause more noises than those of softer rubber found in other makes & models. I'd suggest trying them on your front H&R springs. My prokits got em & they've been noise free since.

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I've always advised those planning springs to grab a pair of KDY534081 spring protectors from the dealership. The current Skyactivs are using a higher durometer/more rigid type of composite material for their strutmounts. These are less forgiving & would cause more noises than those of softer rubber found in other makes & models. I'd suggest trying them on your front H&R springs. My prokits got em & they've been noise free since.

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Thanks for the tip, I'll try to implement it soon.

Dropped car off at dealership for a separate clunking issue from the rear that started happening today. Apparently the GRP end links I installed with my RSB are the cause and need replacing... Seems like issue after issue.
 

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Probably need to be properly installed. They need to be tightened to spec on both ends and the nuts on the adjustment rods need to be tightened also or they will make noise. What rear bar?
Progress RSB. Told the shop to torque the endlinks to 40lbs like I remember you mentioning as well. About 3 months ago they switched to the firm setting on the rsb. Noise just started happening today through canyons even when coasting in neutral. Dealership said "right side is moving around, nut will not move with finger, unknown if threads are messed up" and they dont wanna risk breaking anything aftermarket by doing anything else of course.
 

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Progress RSB. Told the shop to torque the endlinks to 40lbs like I remember you mentioning as well. About 3 months ago they switched to the firm setting on the rsb. Noise just started happening today through canyons even when coasting in neutral. Dealership said "right side is moving around, nut will not move with finger, unknown if threads are messed up" and they dont wanna risk breaking anything aftermarket by doing anything else of course.
Like I said, most likely improperly installed from day one. The endlink nuts need to be torqued properly, but so do the nuts on the center link. If one was left loose it will eventually do that. Was the flanged spacer removed from the endlink stud? It isn't needed for this application and can cause issues if left in place.
 

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Like I said, most likely improperly installed from day one. The endlink nuts need to be torqued properly, but so do the nuts on the center link. If one was left loose it will eventually do that. Was the flanged spacer removed from the endlink stud? It isn't needed for this application and can cause issues if left in place.
Not sure tbh. Not sure what to do now since car sits at dealer. I doubt i need to buy new endlinks but it looks like that may be the case
 
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