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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++UPDATE 6/20/13++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Its been a long road to take the leap but i decided that you dont just get a MS3, you must always get a Cobb Ap and thats what i did.



I cant wait for it to get home, now im on the road for that engine performance.

Next step i already know its Autotech internals, from there i wanna eventually get Cobb Intake and TIH / TIP, but well have to wait a bit for that.

Just one more thing, thank you guys for being so cool and always so supportive. I might need a little help with this whole engine mods and AP but i will be posting questions if needed, You always got my back.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++UPDATE 6/19/13+++++++++++++++++++++



B]03/31/13 [/B] As soon as it reached 55 degrees here, i was ready to add it all.

And heres the finished product.

Battery wire routed through the plastic grommet behind the glove compartment, (btw couldn't add one of the goldplated terminals to the battery cause i couldn't crimp it together to the wire. I didn't know exactly how hard those stupid things are to bend. So i made do.







Had to bend that piece of metal that protects the firewall while i did the routing and then bolt it back together.



Driver's side amp, i added the 2 channel there with the vent going through the wood down the middle so it wont mess with the climate controls in the back of the car. Adjust controls are in the front if needed to be moved. Routed the cables through the trunk from this point along the seam of the doors under the plastic panels and weather seals.



Passenger Side, the 4 channel amp is here since most of the Bose wiring gets routed to this point on the harnesses. I soldered my own cables there using the wiring diagrams on this forum :) thnx guys. And connected them to the terminals accordingly so front left front right and so on would be right. hmmmm Had to remove the seat for this process...... DEAR MOTHER OF JESUS THE BOLTS ON THIS CAR WERE SEALED, got them out using a breaker bar cause no one here rents an impact wrench. I didnt want the seat out but there was no way around it, no pic of it. Now i know how to add heated seats if i feel like the winter is gonna need em. 40lbs per seat sounds about right btw.



Controls are in the back so i can pull the passenger seat all the way up front and move the gains and all that stuff easier.



Grounded it where the stock Bose amp metal cover is bolted down. and it has this little carpet flap that covers it so its out of the way.



Power Block to the right of the passenger side amp.



Ground Dist to the left of that same amp, (most things were added under passenger seat since it was already off.) I routed the Power wires and ground wires to the other amp though the back of the center column and the RCA's were routed through the other side so no interference only perpendicular never parallel. Zip ties for the RCA's on there so they're out of the way when the seat slides back.



Bose Head Unit Before.....



Head Unit After....



Trunk....



Those handles at the bottom are window hinges from home depot, i came up with using these bolted down to the wooden floor board i made, so its a quick release if i need the trunk. Theres one on each side so the sub wont slide around. And for the people that say oh the sub's heavy enough..... i had it without those for one day and it was sliding all over the place, i love making hard turns. And velcro just wont do it for me so this was my take on it.



I realized i didn't want that last one so i left it there...



The Microphone, after much testing on the phone (using bluetooth) with my friend we came to the conclusion that it sounds best right above the seat belt. I routed the wires through the weather stripping and under the plastic scuff plates. Zip tied over the pedals over the wiring there. I hope it doesn't mess up the guys when i want an alarm professionally installed. (drawback of this location is windows closed if you want cellphone talking so no wind hits the microphone, but then again who wants the windows open to talk on the phone)



And that's what i have done so far. Now thats warmer out im gonna do the brake calipers red and hopefully i'll be able to take a few pics of me w/ the car to add here for u guys :) BTW anyone knows of a link to get the mazdaspeed stickers for the calipers?

I'll keep posting when i get the other stuff i want added.




+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++The Beginning ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Hey guys, so I figured since i've put a bit more into this car i would make one of this build threads. Also there are quite a few plans to add more stuff so it might come in handy to keep updating it as they go.

Ok first off, Meet Ricky Bobby lol yea idk why the name, it just came to me.
Purchased on Nov 2012
MS3 CWP 2012, non Tech w/ Bose 100miles on tach. [NJ dealer to NYC dealer]

First 200 miles it got Window tints added 35% sides, 20% in back window :tongue:



300 miles in, and Slim HIDs from DDM were added. had them from my previous Mazda 3 2011


The winter was harsh and this is what it left.





New tires were added so it was driven very little, summer tires are just that, summer tires lol.

Since it was so cold i started to make the trunk base for the subwoofer, i wanted it to be strong so i can drill the box down but still have a quick release. Much research was done on this, and most people lock them down for good, but i like having a hatch for that reason.

I took the carpet flooring out of the trunk.



Used it to trace the shape onto the pieces of MDF 1/2" and cut it. Then used 4 joiners for the two pieces of wood, two on one side, two on the other, i didn't take a pic of that tho.



Then separated the plastic between the carpet and the bottom styrofoam





Not as easy as it looks, took me about a half hour while watching tv and a razor blade so i dont cut my fingers off. No fake nails on for this one.



Glued the styrofoam plastic thing to the bottom of the wood, and the carpet to the top of the wood. Got a handle for like a drawer at home depot and drilled it onto the board so it was easy to access the spare tire and all the stuff there incase cause the wood turned out to be a snug fit. All in all, came out decent.



Here's all the audio equip, well at least most of it, there are a few wires and things left out.



2 Chan mono amp for subwoofer Alpine MRP-500 with some wood on each side, so the vent had a space to let the air out towards the back. Also heavy duty velcro at the bottom of the wooden panels so it attached well to the carpet under the seats.



This one is the 4 channel amp for the 4 speakers i was to add also, it got the same treatment, wood and heavy duty velcro from Home Depot.



The speakers, Mind you the tweeters were supposed to be added by the rear back window, dark plastic facing up directly under the back tweeters Butttttttttt, it was way too cold to route the wires through the door so for now they are inside the doors being held by some hot Glue. Eventually i'll do the placement for the back tweets better.


Xovers are sitting inside the door panels, double sided tape 3M, although i didnt take a pic of them i'll snap one when i fix the tweets so you can see. Also i had built some spacers out of wood, but these speakers didnt hit the window nor the metal bar and if i used the already included "starfish" adapter they mounted nicely. So all the work i had done on that stupid wood cut outs plus the MDF sealer and the PlastiDip... Wasted. Live and learn.

The HeadUnit


JVC avx840 with the bezel from ebay. It came with the antenna adapter which happens to be a honda part lol. PS. the blue wire that comes with the antenna if you plug it into a +12v switched power from the stereo it gives it a boost and i get better reception.

The Back of it




The Sub, 12" Alpine 1243D in a sealed Box, PreBuilt yeah yeah, i should build my own but for the time being the pre fabricated one is doing well. Although Ported is the way to go in my opinion.




[
 

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Very unique mods.
What other mods you have implemented?

Weird how everyone works on something different first. You went for electrical...

I went for appearance and slight performance.
 

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"Battery wire routed through the plastic grommet behind the glove compartment, (btw couldn't add one of the goldplated terminals to the battery cause i couldn't crimp it together to the wire. I didn't know exactly how hard those stupid things are to bend. So i made do".

Nice build but that positive battery terminal need to be revisited. Since that amp wire is in the car already you need a big strapping dude to crimp a ring terminal on the end of that amp wire.
 

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well done. didn't notice any "broken rules" for an audio install. the fuse for power was within 16" of the terminal, kept your ground points within 12" of the amps, and kept your RCA's away from the factory wiring and power wire. looks like you know what your doing. might I suggest using wire loom and black zip ties on any exposed wires. would be the finishing touch to a professional install. were you going to tackle the alarm yourself? might as well do a remote start/alarm combo unit. many of the wires you tap on to for an alarm, you need for a remote starter. there are units that do stick shift also, which I would recommend (much safer). looks like a remote start would be nice to have being in NYC and under two feet of snow.
 

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well done. didn't notice any "broken rules" for an audio install. the fuse for power was within 16" of the terminal, kept your ground points within 12" of the amps, and kept your RCA's away from the factory wiring and power wire. looks like you know what your doing. might I suggest using wire loom and black zip ties on any exposed wires. would be the finishing touch to a professional install. were you going to tackle the alarm yourself? might as well do a remote start/alarm combo unit. many of the wires you tap on to for an alarm, you need for a remote starter. there are units that do stick shift also, which I would recommend (much safer). looks like a remote start would be nice to have being in NYC and under two feet of snow.
I'm no expert but the amp lead to the pos terminal doesn't look kosher and actually might be a problem at a later date. If I'm wrong then carry on as if I never existed. :yes:
 

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I'm no expert but the amp lead to the pos terminal doesn't look kosher and actually might be a problem at a later date. If I'm wrong then carry on as if I never existed. :yes:
your right lord, she'll need the industrial crimp tool to add the terminal. the thing is as large as a bolt cutter. well, it pretty much is, but crimps instead of cuts. not an off the shelf tool you'll find at HD or Lowe's.
 

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On that college budget
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Yeah I was going to say you might want to fix that wire on the positive terminal and get it crimped the right way on one of the gold o-ring you have. I use a giant lock jaw pliers and mushed it down when I set mine up and it crimped it good.
 

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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter #11
Hey guys, thank you so much for the positive input :yes: i kinda have some knowledge of what to do, and with your advise and the forum's how to its probably the most amount of help ive had.

As for that positive terminal i agree Warlord, i actually still have the terminal but those things are amazingly hard, i mean i got it bent like a millimeter lol Sooooo, im actually gonna have one of my friends use a crimp tool to secure it nicely. Yeah those gold plated 4 gauge rings are insanely hard, i'll post a pic of the revisit once its done :tongue: Also the wire loom, its a must Thank you for the tip i didn't even think about that but it would add a nice touch.

The alarm thing i think not, i mean thats the one thing i wouldn't do myself other than blow torch welding something lol. I might have it installed by a pro shop hopefully with a remote starter. Ive heard good things from compustar.

The weight, eh i mean its not overkill the biggest has to be the wood and the sub, Wood's about 30lbs and the box is about 40lbs amps maybe like 6 ish lbs. Its not a wholeee lot, maybe one day HPFP internals + AP = Moar Powah for this girl :tt1: but thats all in due time.

Thanks so much guys, i love sharing here in the forum.
 
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CompuStar is a good choice. just don't like their transmitters, they're kinda 'toyish' looking. they do stick shift seamlessly though and can be paired with Fortin bypass modules with a single data connection. all you have to do is program the module on the computer/laptop to your specific vehicle and program it to the car. my old install manager has a CompuStar R.S. waiting for me that I can upgrade to an alarm by purchasing a different transmitter. he just has to program the bypass for me. he said the install is a little tricky, so he might have to talk me through it. once you've had a remote starter in your vehicle, it sucks not having one.

forgot to mention that the unit does/should have a turbo timer mode that the shop can program for you. the procedure for using the remote starter is kinda tedious though. because it's stick shift and there is no way the remote starter knows if the car is in gear or not, you have to "pit-stop" the car. which means, while it's running, you activate the RS with the remote, remove the key (the car will continue running), exit the car, once it sees all the doors close, it will shut off (unless your using the turbo timer). you can then use the RS. if you unlock and open any doors, the RS won't activate because it won't know if the car was put in gear. so you must repeat the procedure for the RS to work. kind of a PITA but its better than you car lurching forward(or back) on its own. not to mention, most units will make 3 attempts to start the car before it 'gives up'. so, imagine walking out to your car up against another parked car or worse, in the middle of a busy intersection, or use your imagination. serious legal ramifications.
 

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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter #13
I actually decided not to get an alarm yet instead use that money towards other stuff. But when the time comes a compustar is the one i want.
 

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workdaddy
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@ Sumersweets... The stereo was my first jump on things as I rolled mine off the showroom floor... I took out the stock navi for my dvd / custom box build... You did great Job BTW.

On that large battery connector... I have found a secrete to use a large flat head or duel chisel with a small sledge mallet on a vise works also :)
 

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Not ur average sexy girl.
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Discussion Starter #16
thank u ;) i actually wasn't sure how to do this right and those crimp terminals were the death of me lol. So i had my friend do it for me. Sound was the same but at the end of the day i had more peace of mind knowing it was properly wired.
 

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McLovin
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Hey Summer you have done some good work getting your Mazda rocket how you want it. But here is your answer to your amp lead connector problem :001_cool 1:. Just put shrink sleeve on the wire first. Crimp the connector on the wire and then slide the shrink sleeve over the crimped part of the connector. And it will look professional.
 

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