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I've done my swap on Mazda 2 (Demio). If the car is equipped with auto Aircon it's straight forward swap, with manual it isn't - Aircon and defrost would not work.
Hello, because of your findings, I was able to purchased mine based on your cluster explanation. I waited months since the cluster was supposed to have 8k miles, which it was in vain because it has 1k miles.

Now, the issue. I de-tuned my car after getting a message, but that message still persist: "unable to identify vehicle if pcm has a custom tune installed, please enter the strategy/calibration name of the part of factory pcm". This is why I was unable to connect to FORSCAN. So far, I did find that information about other cars, but about the Mazda 2 so far.

I found a Mazda website PCM Reflashing, but I do need a separate hardware to do so, which am sure will be price. Unsure if that will give me the information needed.

The cluster and ADD works and illuminates.

I need help, someone.

@marcu5 @darrecky
 

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This thread is Amazing! Thank you everyone for adding what you have and keeping the thread going!

I have a US 2016 2.5 S GT with HUD. I would like to have the 17-18 HUD. It looks a lot cleaner. I realize there will be plenty of options that my car cannot show on the HUD. Blind spot, traffic signs, etc. Which I'm ok with. I'd just like the HUD speedo and cruise control to look more updated. Would anyone know If I can swap HUD? If so, will there be any complications? Thank you for any or all help provided.
Hello

In my research, the facelift 17-18 HUD have dif. conector than 2016, they are not compatible.
 

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So this swap has been a roller coasted. I got the cluster D23C55430, which is for the 2 and CX-3 newer models. It has the miles conversion (which don't work, but it is set on miles). First issue was getting the PCM number because got a window asking for that due to having a tune. I removed my tuned, but changed nothing. After contacting FORSCAN adm, they gave me a 2 DJ number, P53XC or P53X-188K2-C due to mine not working. In the beginning, I was not following the switching to MS/HS instructions properly. However, later on, I did. I saved my profiles on the original cluster, swapped, loaded, reset codes, and does not work. The DTC codes are still on. I kept the car on in case they might go away attempted to reset the codes since the ECU could reset them( it does in some circumstances). Nothing.--PIC coming.
 

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At the end,it shows my cluster lights. The ADD works found. I unplugged it for the moment. It also shows when it asked me for the PCM number. That one has been solved.

281128
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carbonx240, if I were you, I'd reach out to Instrument Cluster Store. If it turns out the cluster you've got isn't compatible, they can get you one that is - they're incredibly thorough.
That is the cluster though. I did search for a year for it. Even the title states it. It is for the newer Mazdas. I do also have the auto air con. Gasoline/Mazda 2/CX-3/2019.
Someone in FORScan suggested I needed the settings from the car the GT cluster came from. Don’t believe that based on what most done in here.
 

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I did mine today for my 2017 Mazda 3 2.0L. Fairly painless except I couldn't figure out how to get rid of the two SBCS lights on the dash. Turns out you have to relearn the module and then fire up the dynamic aiming and drive around for 10 minutes for the car to relearn it. Also don't forget after you load the AS BUILT you have to WRITE IT as well. I got the incompatible configuration/couldn't write to block 3 but I have no DTCs now so I assume all is good???

Got the 13USD (I paid 11 last week) Kolsol ELM327 adapter from EBay, took 8 days via SpeedPak from China to Canada and it works absolutely great.

Thanks again OP! This was a great learning experience. Just waiting for my OBDStar to come in the mail so I can correct the KMs.

281971


281972
 

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Have not written it. Will re-do it tomorrow, then drive around.
That's what I figured because none of the instructions said you had to hit write, I too thought you just had to load them and that's it.

Make sure you don't hit write all in the bottom, I believe you just need to write Blocks 1, 2 and 4. 3 is read only and Forscan will throw an error if you hit write all since it'll try to write to Block 3.
 

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Do you happen to have a picture? Thanks.
Not my picture since I'd have to go to my car, but this is a picture of the FSC Module Config where it contains 2 Blocks separated by the line (IC Config should contain 4 Blocks).

If you hit the "Write" buttons circled it will write the entire corresponding block. So in this case you would hit the Write button twice. In your IC Config you would hit it three times for Blocks 1, 2, and 4. Don't hit the "Write All" button in the bottom because you DO NOT want to write to Block 3, could mess things up based on what I read on the AS Built thread.

So Load All and then hit each of the Write buttons. And then clear your DTCs.

282056
 

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Edit: Ok after many trials, I realized why didn’t get the extended license. Date was ok but still changed the format. The Hardware I’d was different in the app vs the forscan forum.
 

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Edit: hit write and said no changes, nothing to do.
I only see two big blocks :(


Not my picture since I'd have to go to my car, but this is a picture of the FSC Module Config where it contains 2 Blocks separated by the line (IC Config should contain 4 Blocks).

If you hit the "Write" buttons circled it will write the entire corresponding block. So in this case you would hit the Write button twice. In your IC Config you would hit it three times for Blocks 1, 2, and 4. Don't hit the "Write All" button in the bottom because you DO NOT want to write to Block 3, could mess things up based on what I read on the AS Built thread.

So Load All and then hit each of the Write buttons. And then clear your DTCs.

View attachment 282056
 

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I did mine today for my 2017 Mazda 3 2.0L. Fairly painless except I couldn't figure out how to get rid of the two SBCS lights on the dash. Turns out you have to relearn the module and then fire up the dynamic aiming and drive around for 10 minutes for the car to relearn it. Also don't forget after you load the AS BUILT you have to WRITE IT as well. I got the incompatible configuration/couldn't write to block 3 but I have no DTCs now so I assume all is good???
Just did my swap and had the same SBCS lights. Which module do you reset? Also how do you start dynamic aiming? I started it and it returned: the vehicle conditions are incorrect & service procedure has been interrupted.
 

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No codes got deleted. Maybe that is why the “write” says “nothing to do.” Also, drove for 25 mins/3.5 miles and no codes were deleted either. Tach, speedometer,ADD, gas, temp.ac, all works. Only the codes showing. FeelsBadMan
 

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Just did my swap and had the same SBCS lights. Which module do you reset? Also how do you start dynamic aiming? I started it and it returned: the vehicle conditions are incorrect & service procedure has been interrupted.
You have to initialize/relearn the FSC module to clear the FSC U2100 DTC. And then it will let you start dynamic aiming to clear the B115E DTC

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Edit: hit write and said no changes, nothing to do.
I only see two big blocks :(
You're writing into the IC AS BUILT not FSC AS BUILT right? If you bought the D23C55430 it has to have four blocks. Go into the IC Module Configuration (AS BUILT Format) and send a screenshot

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Question? Before doing so, are my DTC codes supposed to shown cleared?
You have to write in the old IC configuration before the DTC codes will get cleared. Right now your car doesn't recognize the new IC you put in, that's why it's giving you all those codes. You have to configure it (by loading the old IC AS Built Configuration) first.
 
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