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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Success - Swap Base Model Cluster with SP25 GT Cluster & Install HUD in Mazda 3 2014

** Disclaimer - do this at your own risk, I am simply sharing my testing experiences **

Hi all,
I have been contemplating doing this for a while; swapping out the base model (Maxx, Touring, SP25) 2014 Mazda 3 instrument cluster (IC) with the upmarket IC from the SP25 GT + series (that's what we call them in Aussie).
The SP25GT+ cluster has the digital speedo readout and analogue RPM needle in the middle, it also has the connector in the rear of the cluster for the "Active Driving Display" to connect into.

I have done this process before in Holden Commodores since 2001, swapping out the clusters, modifying EEPROM data, using TECH2 Chinese clones and so on so I have a comfortable understanding of the design patterns used in IC's from manufactures, its generally fairly straight forward, as it was again in this case.
I found a good deal on a used cluster and decided to give it a shot, read on..

What you'll need:
  • I used the latest version of Forscan version 2.3.5 beta. I like living on the edge - so using a beta version completes me.
  • I own an OBDStar F100 - I can attest to this being good to set the ODO to what it was before and ensure your km/mi are correct.
  • A laptop
  • A posi drive (Philips head) screw driver
  • ELM327 modified adapter that supports CAN HI and LOW connectivity. This is the exact one I have been using ELM327 Diagnostic Cable OBDII Modified Forscan Elmconfig Ford Mazda HI LOW CAN | eBay
  • A compatible cluster from a higher model Mazda in your series. I have a Maxx model, so the SP25GT is the model that has the upmarket cluster that I need. I found mine on eBay, interestingly from the UK (note I am in Australia). The seller provided the VIN to me of the vehicle it came from, and the AS-Built data is quite different to what I have seen on all the local Aussie as-built data configs from equivalent cars. Mine did not come with the "Active Driving Display". But it still worked.

The IC that came from my car has a clear backing panel on it as you will see in the photos. The upmarket IC has a solid white back, and you will notice the additional connector - that's where the "Active Driving Display" unit plugs into.

Quite simply, here is what I did:
  • Using VXDiag, follow the process to replace a module - in this case - the IC. It said the task was successful etc. however nothing worked as I expected so I opted to just use Forscan from here on in. If someone else tries the following, I would love to see if you have any issues not using VXDiag - and thus any other DTC's registered (perhaps VIN on the modules not all in sync on the car etc..) VXDiag when doing AS-Built reconfiguration only allows 720-01-01 to 720-01-07. This is not sufficient as the rest of the settings in the IC 720-02-01 to 720-04-28 need updating (configs ABS, TCS/DCS etc. options on the car!)
  • Using Forscan, use the "Save All" button to save the IC "Module configuration (AS BUILT format)" of the original cluster.
  • Using Forscan, check the "Module configuration" screen and make note of the settings (i.e. Average fuel consumption resetting method, BSM volume, LWDS volume etc etc..) You don't need this step but I did just in case - and went back into this screen later to make sure everything is as expected.
  • Write down the number of KM's on your ODO. Do the right thing there - I am pretty sure there is no secondary metering in these IC's but I believe it might have an activity log - not confirmed.
  • Read the Service Manual and following the process to remove the upper steering column cover and meter hood. Basically it's a bunch of clips - no screws. (Note: I didn't disconnect the battery at all - so don't bash the airbag accidently)
  • Remove the four screws from the IC, unplug it from the harness at the back.
  • Insert the new IC, connect the harness, screw back in and re-assemble the dash.
  • Using Forscan, go back to the "Module configuration (AS BUILT format)" and grab a reading of the details on this screen (see my note 1 below). Once you have this config, press the "Load All" button and browse to your original IC file that you created earlier and restore it.
  • At this stage you are pretty well done, but there are some tidy up tasks I had to do..

Tidy up tasks:
  • Clear all DTC's, I had one remaining IC DTC (as shown in pics C1132 ) because I don't have the "Active Driving Display" unit connected - it knows and throws a DTC.
  • Before I realised that clearing the DTC's was a good thing, I found that my Navigation stopped working and gave a message indicating I didn't have the module installed etc.. See photos - rest assured that this went away after I cleared my DTC's several times etc.
  • Test all your things, lights, gear changes etc. Mine was fine. I then went for a drive with a GPS app on the phone to see if the speedo was out. It wasn't, in fact my speedo reads 2km higher at any speed than what GPS speed is - therefore I am technically doing 2kmh less than the shown speed - I believe this closely aligns to Australia Design Rules on IC's.
  • Use OBDStar F100 to update the ODO. Takes about 3 minutes at most.
  • I noticed that my fuel remaining did not change to what the original cluster was showing until I went for a drive and it just sorted itself out.

Note 1: Someone one day on this forum might be able to decode what each config here is - I do know that config items 720-02-01 and onwards are things that enable the "Smart City Brake Support" menu item under the Safety tab in MZD Connect and determine the ABS configuration, TCS/DCS configuration and SBS configuration of the car (I know this because I over wrote the values with my original IC values to make all the lights go away on the cluster) and thus set the configuration right - I believe..
Note 2: You will see in one of the photos that AD-Disp menu in MZD Connect. Only once for some reason the menu system was enabled and I was able to scroll it. I turned off Active Driving Display to see if that would remove any DTC's but it didn't - I am not surprised as this option just stops the screen coming up when using the car. Since doing this, this menu still exists, but is grayed out, I can't scroll or adjust settings. If and when I get the "Active Driving Display" I believe this will work as expected and thus the DTC will go away.
Note 3: As mentioned, this IC came from the UK where it was configured for miles. Once I updated the config, this became Kilometres on the digital speedo read out.

My next steps:
  • Get my hands on the "Active Driving Display" - I am confident I will make it work.
  • I am trying to get the Keyless Beeper Module working but need a LF Control module and wiring harness. So I am actively working on using Arduino to listen for the right CANBUS frames and make a melody tune for when the doors lock / unlock from a Keyfob action.
  • Try and get some more value from the VXDiag unit, it really has been underwhelming in my opinion. Forscan has so much potential and I really do advocate that people support it!

Cheers :)
 

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How is this thread not getting more love from this forum? or at least included as a diy? anyhow, you sir are my personal hero! this is something i intend to do to my 3 when the warranty is over! any news on the next steps? haven't you had any issues with the new speedo?
 

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Holy crap, this is the first time i've ever seen someone attempt something like this here. Congrats on the mod, living on the edge indeed. Are you planning to add the HUD soon? it's the only piece of the puzzle missing right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys :)
No issues at all, it took a few days to get used to the digital readout because I was used to the needle for speed readout.
Fuel tank readings, average readings etc. are all spot on.

Yes, planning on the HUD this weekend, only just found and received a unit from the UK.
I had to make sure it fit the series with respect to the current TSB: CRACKS AROUND EDGE OF ACTIVE DRIVING DISPLAY (LOOKS FUZZY).pdf

I'll will put the information up, pics etc. also once done.

To be honest, I'm not too worried about the warranty. I would be surprised if the average car dealer mechanic can figure it out, all genuine parts and it's just another Mazda to them for an oil and air filter change..
 

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The only sketchy thing about this is the reprogramming of the odometer. I'm guessing laws regarding odometer tampering are different from country to country and state to state, but I would definitely love to try it out as I have a base model 2014 GX (which for some reason has no tach, even though it has a manual transmission). Does anybody know how Odometer changes can work in Canada? Is this something I need to show the dealer for them to reprogram?
 

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Most definitely an impressive swap. I'll tell you what I'd really like to see with this, can you get the new 2017 HUD to work with a 2014-2016 dash display? I'm about 99.99999% sure it won't work since the HUD is PC-driven. The 2017 HUD is paired with a TFT display, so I'm guessing it has a completely different schematic -- maybe even a different connector.

If you ever find a junked 2017 and want to attempt a colored 2017 HUD, I'm sure you'd be everyone's hero on this site if you could get it to work.
 

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Thanks guys :)
No issues at all, it took a few days to get used to the digital readout because I was used to the needle for speed readout.
Fuel tank readings, average readings etc. are all spot on.

Yes, planning on the HUD this weekend, only just found and received a unit from the UK.
I had to make sure it fit the series with respect to the current TSB: CRACKS AROUND EDGE OF ACTIVE DRIVING DISPLAY (LOOKS FUZZY).pdf

I'll will put the information up, pics etc. also once done.

To be honest, I'm not too worried about the warranty. I would be surprised if the average car dealer mechanic can figure it out, all genuine parts and it's just another Mazda to them for an oil and air filter change..

Keep us posted mate, i definetly want to see how this goes! post lots of pictures too!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok guys have now installed the HUD / Active Driving Display (ADD).
All works as expected, at the end of the day it's an information screen so I didn't expect any issues..

What you'll need:
  • ADD unit - I found mine from a wrecker in the UK on eBay
  • Posidrive screw driver
  • 2 x 30mm 8G screws (to attached the ADD to the IC)
  • A new meter hood / shroud (at time of writing this post, I don't know the part number of it.
  • Forscan (to clear DTC's)

Here is what I did:
  • Remove existing meter hood and upper column cover (per Mazda manual)
  • Unscrew the four screws that hold the IC in place. (Might be handy to remove the SSU button so that you can have the meter hood out of the way)
  • Disconnect the IC harness plug and remove the IC
  • Insert the ADD unit ribbon cable into the socket of the IC unit
  • Screw the 2 x 30mm 8G screws through the ADD unit and into the IC unit (as shown in pictures attached)
  • Reassemble back into car.
  • Using Forscan, clear DTC's (I had a DTC from using the IC without the ADD unit attached). This fixed it.
  • Start the car, you will notice that the menu options for the ADD unit can now be modified. (Must start the car for this)
  • Adjust the height settings etc. in the menu.
  • Enjoy.

Tidy up tasks:
  • In my case, I have to find the right meter hood for the ADD unit. I would advise you get this in advance to make it an end to end install.

Notes:
  • It automatically comes up and down when you start/stop car.
  • It displays the speed and turn by turn navigation.
  • Pretty handy in its location compared to looking down at the IC.

Cheers :)
 

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wow! i'm impressed!! I'll be doing this mod as soon as i can source all the parts for my car :D. I was actually looking for the hood p/n, but it seems it all comes together with the front plastic cover as well. Anyhow, the p/n i've found is BHN25542002. Hopefully this can help you.
 

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Damn, you sir are the MAN. I belive something like this is not for the faint of heart, the biggest mod i've ever done was retroffitting the paddle shifters to my CX-5.
 

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Pretty cool you were able to get this working and looking right. I wouldn't have had the heart to dive into this one with that many unknowns. Respect
 

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I have the say that the result is impressive! I've got a 1 question though. Can everything be done using Forscan only? I do not have access to VXDiag or any other dealers equipment. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: VX Diag - hard to tell if it actually did anything... I have a unit from aliexpress and I think its garbage; settings don't stick etc.. Where as everything in Forscan does at a byte level (or HEX which ever way you want to look at it) does. It was only $100, but if it did play a part in this - then I got my value I guess..

Quick update on the dash trim bit:
  • I rang a local Mazda spare parts shop (not a dealer as such but better service than one..) and they found the following information relating to the dash trim in this system "THIS GARNISH NOT SERVICED..." They could however sell the whole HUD etc. with the trims brand new so it seems you can't buy this small bit on its own.
  • I then rang a local Mazda dealer, they wanted $470 for the dash trim bit required (comes with cluster facia etc..). He refused to give me the part number so I told him to forget it.
  • I jumped online and scoured an Australia wide car wrecking website where wreckers have all the cars they are wrecking listed. I found one 2015 Mazda 3 SP25GT and called them up. I sent through a photo of what I was after and $50 later they are sending me the whole facia trim - basically perfect condition. I should have it later this week and will post the final photos of it (and any part related information for the Aussie market)

Will post back more soon.
Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok have received the dash trim required from the wrecker over on the east coast of Australia and installed. All perfect, no issues what so ever.
I have taken a number of pics including both set's of part numbers on the trims for anyone else that might be interested.

Cheers :)
 

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Well, you definetly have been busy with this. Have you run into some CMU errors with this or is everything working fine now? Does the HUD display turn by turn navigation ?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
No issues or DTC's, all working perfect.
When using navigation, little arrows come up on the HUD to show which lane you should be in and or which way to turn next. :)
 

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Well, I can safely say that this is doable. I decided to try and do this swap on my '15 Mazda 3 i Grand Touring.

I found an instrument cluster from an S model Mazda 3, picked up an OBDStar F100, and just finished the install today. By my good luck, the cluster I ordered actually came with the HUD, but seeing as I don't have the correct trim piece yet (I've ordered it), I removed it for the time being so I could put the cover back on.

I'm not sure if it was because the cluster was from a similarly configured Mazda 3 S, or if it was because I used the F100 to backup the configuration and restore it once the new cluster was in, but I did not do any copying of the As-Built information. Restoring the configuration also reprogrammed the mileage on the cluster, which I expected. After a minute or so, the few indicator lights that stayed on eventually turned off. These were the TPMS light, the ABS light, and the Traction Control light. As I said, those just took a minute or so to go out.

Otherwise, everything is working correctly. I'm just waiting on the final trim piece so I can finish installing the HUD, but I don't anticipate any problems with that.

Again, major kudos to @marcu5 for attempting this in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I can safely say that this is doable. I decided to try and do this swap on my '15 Mazda 3 i Grand Touring.

Again, major kudos to @marcu5 for attempting this in the first place.
Awesome mate - good to hear that there is another!
Cheers! :)
 
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