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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stereo Install Mazda 3 BL SP25 09-13 (Aus edition)

Stereo Install (Proper thread) Mazda BL SP25 - Aus edition

I'm not going to show how to install Power Cable + wires as girls know this basic knowledge. I'll Be showing everything else on my current setup which i think is perfectly fine & easy to revert to stock providing you buy another set of original tweeter sails.

- Will start at the standard HU connections - I bought from amazon (costly but will save time and wont damage your standard loom if you want to revert back quickly/easily)
PAC AOEM-MAZ2 (Can't post link due to stupid post count rule - u will have to search it yourself)

- I chopped Speaker wire behind PAC loom connection to factory loom to join speaker wires from amplifier, i didn't want any signal coming from the amplifier to the back of the HU to be able to cause probable damage. I looked everywhere online how to connect this, it was mentioned no where so i chose to do it like this to be 100% sure i don't damage the factory HU

-Next I started on fitting my POLK DB6501 Front Component Speakers (DB6502's are current model) - I tried to order blank front tweeter sail, they don't seem to have any in stock (U.S) they also don't sell these in Australia (I looked everywhere so don't bother)
I started to cut the hole in the sail same size roughly as tweeter, make sure you don't make it bigger if your using same tweeter, you'll know why as the shape behind tweeter is curved. I started dremuling slowly to make sure i get a tight fit.
Once done i used epoxy to glue tweeter from behind cover.

-Next i made the template to fit speaker in front door 5x7" to 6.5", I used PVC as wood will damage over time (rot / turn moldy from condensation)

-Next i installed rear speakers POLK DB571 5x7's for factory bolt up (DB572's are the current model)

-Next installing the sub box, i pulled out the carpet, behind the carpet there is a piece of plastic stapled on or something, i made 4x small metal plates about 2-3cm squared with a hole through the centre for bolt to go through, I placed the sub box where i wanted it to sit & drilled through the holes to put the plate & bolts, bolts should be placed from underneath pointing up then secure a nut on the top side so bolt doesn't fall through, i made mounts for the sub box. I screwed 2x mounts onto sub box, make sure you don't put the mounts to low as it will be touching the mount (Have the mount around 1.5cm higher from being flush with the bottom of the box.

Now the bolts that stick up through place the sub box over to make the bolts pop through the mounts on the box, now put another nut to hold the box in place (this was the best way i could think of if you need to remove box for spare etc. You only have 2 nuts to remove and walla.

Did a db sound test with meter (cheap one, not sure how accurate)

db = 111.1

(other system components - Amps - PDX-F6 = speakers JL XD 600/1 = 1x JL Audio 12"w6 (2nd Gen)
 

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