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I need some advice or idea. My car is 2016 Mazda 3 AT 2.0L (Japan Manufactured), the car runs fine, the ignition is fine (i.e. green key light and green ignition light). However, whenever I use the headlights, after some time the ignition light will start to blink amber. The reason is indeed due to the headlight being turned on as this does not happen if the headlight is off. Anyone please chime in! Thank you!
 

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I need some advice or idea. My car is 2016 Mazda 3 AT 2.0L (Japan Manufactured), the car runs fine, the ignition is fine (i.e. green key light and green ignition light). However, whenever I use the headlights, after some time the ignition light will start to blink amber. The reason is indeed due to the headlight being turned on as this does not happen if the headlight is off. Anyone please chime in! Thank you!
The full manual mentions the following situations where the ignition light might flash amber. I wonder if your main battery voltage is adequate when the headlights are on. Check the battery is OK, else you need to visit a Mazda dealer.

If there is a malfunction with the push button start function, the push button start indicator light (amber) flashes. In this case, the engine may start, however, have the vehicle checked as soon as possible. If the push button start indicator light (green) does not illuminate, perform the operation from the beginning again. If it does not illuminate, have the vehicle checked.

Emergency start. If the KEY warning light (red) illuminates, or the push button start indicator light (amber) flashes, this could indicate that the engine may not start using the usual starting method. Have the car inspected. If this occurs, the engine can be force-started. Press and hold the push button start until the engine starts. Other procedures necessary for starting the engine such as having the key in the cabin, and depressing the clutch pedal (manual transaxle) or the brake pedal (automatic transaxle) are required.
 

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The full manual mentions the following situations where the ignition light might flash amber. I wonder if your main battery voltage is adequate when the headlights are on. Check the battery is OK, else you need to visit a Mazda dealer.

If there is a malfunction with the push button start function, the push button start indicator light (amber) flashes. In this case, the engine may start, however, have the vehicle checked as soon as possible. If the push button start indicator light (green) does not illuminate, perform the operation from the beginning again. If it does not illuminate, have the vehicle checked.

Emergency start. If the KEY warning light (red) illuminates, or the push button start indicator light (amber) flashes, this could indicate that the engine may not start using the usual starting method. Have the car inspected. If this occurs, the engine can be force-started. Press and hold the push button start until the engine starts. Other procedures necessary for starting the engine such as having the key in the cabin, and depressing the clutch pedal (manual transaxle) or the brake pedal (automatic transaxle) are required.
Thanks for the reply. I will definitely be going to the dealer, at least I have an idea on what could probably going on. I just checked the voltage when off, it is about 12.57 volts. When the engine is turned on (and regardless whether headlight is on or off) the voltage is about 13.45 volts. This seems pretty normal, right? Although I haven't tested while it is blinking as I needed to drive it with headlights on for it to appear. Hopefully dealer knows what's up. BTW, I brought this already to them for the first time and what they replaced is the brake light switch and my key fob battery. I just noticed that it is due to the headlight when I noticed it only happens at night, then I tried turning on the headlights during the day. Keep you guys posted to help others in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I realized my battery voltage with engine running seems low. Does that mean I have bad alternator? Should it be replaced?
 

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I realized my battery voltage with engine running seems low. Does that mean I have bad alternator? Should it be replaced?
That could be the alternator or a faulty cell in the battery. Does the battery hold its charge if the car isn't used for a few days?
 

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I realized my battery voltage with engine running seems low. Does that mean I have bad alternator? Should it be replaced?
Have batt health checked 1st. iStop is kinda abusive on batteries. In case you need a new 1, opt for AGM over EFB.
 

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I hate iStop and turn it off. Maybe my battery might last a bit longer?
iStop was designed not for us but for the environment. Yes, keeping it off is 1 way to extend batt life. The other way is to constantly condition your batt w/ a trickle charger like the CTEK CT5 Start/Stop.... the same CTEK Jay Leno endorses.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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That could be the alternator or a faulty cell in the battery. Does the battery hold its charge if the car isn't used for a few days?
I drive the car daily but short travel time and short distances. I don't know if I do have that istop thing. My car is 2016 iSV base model (japan manufactured), isn't that thing only for higher trim (not sure)? Checked it sunday morning (so just overnight not used), batt voltage is 12.45 but still able to start ignition with no prob. No issues lately in starting...although I remember one time about a month ago that I had a hard time starting and had to "force start" as in stated in the manual. I hope this is battery more than ECU or anything else.

What drives me nuts is that it only happens with the headlights on. BTW, I used to run these HID lights without the canbus driver thing and I run it through the stock harness. I don't know if that shit caused it but I used to run it without problems.

Thanks to y'all for your inputs.
 

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I finally figured this shit. It was caused by the T20 LED tailight (maybe because I didn't use a resistor). I am removing that altogether as it is not worth it to install a resistor. Again, thanks for everyone's input. I hope this helps someone anyway. At least I was able to also check that my battery might not be at its best now. LOL.
 

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I finally figured this shit. It was caused by the T20 LED tailight (maybe because I didn't use a resistor). I am removing that altogether as it is not worth it to install a resistor. Again, thanks for everyone's input. I hope this helps someone anyway. At least I was able to also check that my battery might not be at its best now. LOL.
Is that an upgraded bulb you fitted? My 2017 model has all LED lights anyway.
 

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Is that an upgraded bulb you fitted? My 2017 model has all LED lights anyway.

You mean the 2017 have stock LED taillights? Or maybe you have the GT trim? Mine comes with halogen bulbs and I tried replacing it with LED for better output but it seems to be almost the same. IDK if there's a better bulb but this is regular T20 that I plug and play.
 

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You mean the 2017 have stock LED taillights? Or maybe you have the GT trim? Mine comes with halogen bulbs and I tried replacing it with LED for better output but it seems to be almost the same. IDK if there's a better bulb but this is regular T20 that I plug and play.
My UK model is a 2017 Mazda 3 Fastback (Sedan) Sport Nav 2.0 petrol (made in Japan). This is the top spec trim available in the UK. All lights are LED apart from the indicators, reversing, rear fog and number plate lights.
 

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iStop was designed not for us but for the environment. Yes, keeping it off is 1 way to extend batt life. The other way is to constantly condition your batt w/ a trickle charger like the CTEK CT5 Start/Stop.... the same CTEK Jay Leno endorses.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
I think my Mazda 3's Q85 battery could do with a charge after many short trips since the i-Stop is never ready. I have a CT5 Start/Stop charger I bought for another car. Does this charger work OK with the Mazda 3 battery in situ? I only ask since the Mazda service guide says to to remove the battery and charge with a constant current of 10 to 15 A for a specified time (e.g. 4.5hrs for a specific gravity of 1.2)
 

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I think my Mazda 3's Q85 battery could do with a charge after many short trips since the i-Stop is never ready. I have a CT5 Start/Stop charger I bought for another car. Does this charger work OK with the Mazda 3 battery in situ? I only ask since the Mazda service guide says to to remove the battery and charge with a constant current of 10 to 15 A for a specified time (e.g. 4.5hrs for a specific gravity of 1.2)
The CT5 Start/Stop is designed to trickle charge w/o any need of O85 batt removal from the car.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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The CT5 Start/Stop is designed to trickle charge w/o any need of O85 batt removal from the car.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Thanks for your quick reply. I wonder why the Mazda service documentation doesn't mention the use of smart trickle chargers like the CT5?
 

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I need some advice or idea. My car is 2016 Mazda 3 AT 2.0L (Japan Manufactured), the car runs fine, the ignition is fine (i.e. green key light and green ignition light). However, whenever I use the headlights, after some time the ignition light will start to blink amber. The reason is indeed due to the headlight being turned on as this does not happen if the headlight is off. Anyone please chime in! Thank you!
Dear
Please advice how you fixed it and whats was the issue?
 

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iStop was designed not for us but for the environment. Yes, keeping it off is 1 way to extend batt life. The other way is to constantly condition your batt w/ a trickle charger like the CTEK CT5 Start/Stop.... the same CTEK Jay Leno endorses.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Jay Leno was my nextdoor neighbor growing up. :)
 
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