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Discovered that my Polk component speakers have slightly larger diameter than stock speakers, and won't lay flush with the Mazda speaker mounts (Polks rest on the lip of the mount). Proceeded to remove the lip (broke off with pliers and sanded it level). Also removed the six plastic magnet supports from back of speaker mount with hacksaw, very simple operation.

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Drilled 4 holes into the Mazda mount to attach speakers, but then realized that there is very little plastic material to hold everything together.

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Decided to attach Polk supplied spacer/speaker bracket to the speaker. Plan is to drill/ screw in the Polk spacer to the outer edge of Mazda mount, where the plastic is a bit thicker/ easier to secure screw from behind.

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One possible problem with using the Polk bracket is it moves the speaker about a quarter inch closer to the Mazda door panel/ grill. Haven't measured yet to see if it will touch grill.

Next need to figure out best way to seal space between Mazda mount and Polk bracket. Have some stick on foam weatherstripping, along with butyl rubber (leftover from door sound deadening project), which may work.

 
Thanks for the how-to, also thanks to willied for the video, lots of great info here. I'm going to try this next weekend on my 4-speaker non Bose system in my 2014. One thing that's not clear to me, are the front and rear brackets the same size? I think I remember reading somewhere (probably Crutchfield) that the rears are smaller. But I don't necessarily trust them since they don't even sell brackets that work correctly.
 
One thing that's not clear to me, are the front and rear brackets the same size? I think I remember reading somewhere (probably Crutchfield) that the rears are smaller. But I don't necessarily trust them since they don't even sell brackets that work correctly.
I'm guessing that the brackets are different sizes.

Crutchfield gave me a set of Metra 82-8145 brackets when I purchased my Polk speakers, unfortunately, it was the wrong set. After talking with them on the phone, we figured out that the correct brackets for the front doors were Metra 82-7501.

Since they didn't have those brackets in stock, they said if I purchased them somewhere else, they would reimburse me for the cost. Found the last pair at Sonic Electronix for $15, and received a credit on my Visa. Brackets arrived in mail today, and look like a perfect fit, looks like I won't be using the stock Mazda bracket after all.
 
After talking with them on the phone, we figured out that the correct brackets for the front doors were Metra 82-7501.
Aw man! I didn't think anything from Metra existed yet for this car. I just assumed because Crutchfield didn't have it that no one would.

I'm in the middle of destroying the rear brackets to drill my speakers into, like everyone else has done. It's been a lot more cutting and dremeling than I expected. I haven't started on the front, and considering those Metra brackets say they are for the front only, maybe I will just grab those instead of doing all this work on the front too. Thanks!
 
Oh, and yeah the rear brackets are different. I've already cut out the stock speakers in these pictures. As you can see, they are bolted into the door with 3 bolts rather than 4 as in the front. Also comparing my experience with the pictures of the front brackets, I'd say there is a lot less room here to screw new speakers into. I was able to pull it off but it required some very small screws (3mm) and some finagling with the dremel.

One downside with the Metra brackets seems to be that there is no wiring, so you'd have to find a wiring harness or cut the connector off of the car. Because of that I'm going to go forward with using the stock brackets.
 

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I was originally going to get the Metra brackets, but I read in the reviews on Crutchfield that is was just better to reuse the stock brackets. I didn't have any issue with the rear. It fits the same size speaker, it just uses 3 bolts instead of 4 to mount onto the door.
 
Interesting. It must have been my particular speakers. I had to use the outermost holes on the speaker, which meant drilling holes very very close to the outer edge of the bracket. The screw heads ended up digging into the plastic wall of the bracket a bit, but it got the job done. I couldn't use any of the inner holes on the speaker because they were too far in, there would be no place to drill into the bracket.
 
Interesting. It must have been my particular speakers. I had to use the outermost holes on the speaker, which meant drilling holes very very close to the outer edge of the bracket. The screw heads ended up digging into the plastic wall of the bracket a bit, but it got the job done. I couldn't use any of the inner holes on the speaker because they were too far in, there would be no place to drill into the bracket.
Ahh, I see. My speakers only had one set of holes and luckily they fit just fine.
 
My Infinity speakers came in today. Going to the dealer to pick up some door snaps and plan on tackling this weekend. Got some Dynamat sheets to put in the door hope that helps with sound and calming the road noise. These posts will be helpful.
The only think I am unclear about is where to mount the crossover in the front door and how to run the speaker wire from the crossover to the in dash tweeter.
 
Got the rears in no problem. Working on the fronts. Where do I mount the crossover? Inside the door frame panel will be exposed to water. Does not seem to be room for a place on outside of frame inside the panel. How do I thread the speaker wire around the door molex connector?
Thanks
 
Going to be installing/ mounting my crossover in area under far left/ right ends of dash. Going to connect to speaker lines back there, so I don't have to worry about running wire through molex.
 
Im going to mount crossovers under front right and left seats, if I dont find good spots inside the dash. Going to run wire thru molex for mids. Those stock wires cant handle too much power... Im using 14 AWG wires on speakers. Speakers 100w rms, 150w max, 300w peak. Amp is 2x140w + 1x440w (bridged).
 
That would be nice but I do not see a way to get to the wires.....unless you go from the big plug on the back of the stereo.
My car has the TAU mounted under dash/ above the right side kick panel, with all the wiring coming out of that.
 
@SnowM3: really great how-to! thanks!

One question, actually two :)
- did you only replace speakers (front+rear) and left anything everything else in its place? Didn't add amp and sub, right?
- is the 3Ohms Infinity speakers going to cause any troubles to the HU? Some people say that if the aftermarket speakers are lower Ohms than the stock ones it could create some overheating to something that is called 'finals' in the HU/player

If you only replaced the speakers, the increase in sound quality is noticeable? I find the 6 speakers non-Bose actually decent although it lacks the high frequencies quite a lot...anyway, better than other stock sound that I listened in other cars. I still believe that it can be much better with better speakers because the OEM HU seems to be putting out 25W RMS (quite good for an OEM HU) if my friend working for Mazda is right.
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
@SnowM3: really great how-to! thanks!

I still believe that it can be much better with better speakers because the OEM HU seems to be putting out 25W RMS (quite good for an OEM HU) if my friend working for Mazda is right.
Yes, just replaced the speakers, left everything else stock. Face it, unless you are into parking lot comparisons, it is a relatively noisy car, and you get diminishing returns once you replace the speakers. I have no desire to rattle the windows, so more watts is not needed. The stock sounded okay to me too, but since replacing the speakers, the difference is profound - low and high end. Look at my pics of the stock speakers - whizzer cone and tiny magnet.

No issues on the stock power for my tastes - 6 months in, no HU issues, and it will pound out the bass when I wind it up. Very happy.

Edit: Still want to stick a sub under one of the seats, however - if anyone knows a model of amped sub that fits under the passenger seat, let me know.
 
thanks a lot, SnowM3! :)
I was only concerned about the high end frequencies...somebody told me that the HU might block the high frequencies from 8KHz upwards, but it looks like everything is ok with the highs, according to what you're telling.
thanks again!
as for the amped sub, I think there are tones of options for you. Maybe you should check with crutchfield.com. You'll have to run a wire from the HU in order to connect the sub an most probably a high-low converter....
 
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