[jackf]

Take a look at these...there out of my 2010 sport 5 door. Standard stereo no navi front and rears.... posed next to my Alpine Type S 5x7's I took out of my Explorer and installed into the 3 today front and rears! LOL I couldn't stop laughing, they literally have no weight to them... well take a gander and have a chuckle!

 

[Derrick_B]

Wow, that's pretty pathetic. But...think of all the weight they saved by making them so puny! Lame.

 

[jackf]

Wow, that's pretty pathetic. But...think of all the weight they saved by making them so puny! Lame.

True... I need that Cork SRI more than ever know...just added at least 12 pounds to my car today :tongue:

 

[BSUBigMac]

How much better do the new speakers sound?

 

[jackf]

Better... still not great but with no amp or sub and the factory head unit i wasn't expecting much. Just got curious and popped the door panel off...it was just unacceptable. It gave a little more clarity and allot better base,don't have to crank the volume as high. I'd say a 20% improvement over stock ... its all subjective though.

 

[pipboy2006]

Can you post some pic to walkthrough how to pop the door panel?

 

[xatomic]

do u guys know how much watts the head unit is pumping?

 

[geddyhanzo]

Can you post some pic to walkthrough how to pop the door panel?

Here you go:

First remove A-pillar. You can use your fingers to pop it out

Then remove door latch plate. It will expose the mounting screw.

Then move on the door handle and remove the handle cover.

Now you may have noticed I am using a small screw driver. I was careful to use it in places where if I happen to scratch something it was in an area that could not be seen by anyone. BTW there were no scratches at all.

When you pry back the handle cover just use your finger to pop it out the rest of the way exposing the mounting screws.

Remove the window control panel. Once you pry one corner it will pop out just using your finger. Remove the wiring harness from the window control button.

Remove the three screws, and pop out the door panel. Be careful with the door panel plugs they break easily. I broke some of mine, but was able to salvage them. The next time I remove the panel though I will have to replace them.

Pop out from the back of the door panel the door latch assembly, and push it through the door panel leaving it just hanging there.

And there you have it!

 

[Derrick_B]

Awesome Would you mind posting this as a separate thread with full-size pics in the How-To section so Josh can sticky it?

 

[jackf]

Can you post some pic to walkthrough how to pop the door panel?

Front and rest doors are similar. you want to start by removing the trim pieces by gently prying with a flat blade screw driver or a butter knife. Might want to wrap it in a piece of cloth as not to mar the trim pieces.

For the door pull start at the bottom with the screwdriver or knife. Once you get it started use both hands working your way up gently pulling.... For the door handle cover start at the curved edge closest to the lock and gently pry back. this will expose the screws that need to be removed (all doors are the same).

Remove the screws circled in green....

The next step is to pop lose the pins holding the door panel in place.. On the front doors remove the A pillar cover first... just hold your breath, grab and pull gently trying to work it off . I was a little scared removing this piece as its a little flimsy at the edge closest to the door jamb. Depending on model you may have a speaker in this spot but removal is the same.

After the A pillar cover is removed start right below it on the door panel pulling it away from the door working your way down and all the way around. Then lift the panel up and off. Again all doors are about the same

Now I disconnected the wiring and door handle and lock actuator cables. Of course I didn't take pictures of that part.... sorry.

You can let them hang but I recommend disconnecting them as it makes it easier to work when its out of the way. Also my front speakers had to be shimmed out because the magnet hit the window ...i used 3/8 x1/2 nylon spacer and longer screws and some foam tape to take up the gap, I got at Lowe's.

 

[jackf]

Never mind geddyhanzo's is much much better than mine!!!!hsnap 1: awsome

 

[bipbip2fast4u]

Now we all know how Mazda has made to have the 2010 3 lighter then 1st gen... 12kg win on speakers and 3 kg on the rest of the car. LOL.
BTW does some1 with the non Bose unit tell me how is the fm reception? 1st gen was/is still really bad. So I'd like to know if I have to budget a speakers AND a radio change.
Thanks

 

[Derrick_B]

do u guys know how much watts the head unit is pumping?

The Bose system is rated at 242 watts, which I'm guessing is peak. So, it would be something like 10 watts to each speaker and 25 watts to the sub RMS. Nothing impressive. I don't even want to know about the regular head unit. Probably 80 watts peak total. It's really not about the watts though. If it's distorted, you'll never want to use that power. I have a 2x15 watt T-amp in my house that will push 2-way 6.5" bookshelf speakers HARD with basically no distortion at full volume. I wish we could get that kind of efficiency in our cars.

 

[sfdxsm]

Now we all know how Mazda has made to have the 2010 3 lighter then 1st gen... 12kg win on speakers and 3 kg on the rest of the car. LOL.
BTW does some1 with the non Bose unit tell me how is the fm reception? 1st gen was/is still really bad. So I'd like to know if I have to budget a speakers AND a radio change.
Thanks

An hour away from my home town I get most of the local radio stations which are based on Philly for both AM/FM.

 

[bipbip2fast4u]

No perturbations or parasites? Leaving my house, after 2 km or even less it's like I had no antenna, repeated very often.Never had any troubles before when I had aftermarket unit. This 1 really su**s.

 

[Spleeny]

Question:

I'm pretty much 100% on getting the moonroof/Bose package. I understand that there are some complaints about the quality of the Bose equipment - and little that I know about car audio, man, they do look kind of sad.

That said: while I like nice sound, I am used to a 1980 Oldsmobile Cutlass (yes, that's what I currently drive) and a base model 2003 Corolla (my wife's car). So frankly, the base sound system is an upgrade to what I'm used to, eh?

Here are my questions (and thanks in advance for the assistance!):

Is the Bose at least a noticeable upgrade from the standard system? I'd think it'd have to be, what with the sub, but...

And I am totally not a DIY kind of guy. If I get the Bose, is it still something that I can have a reputable car audio place upgrade at a later date?

If I can get the sunroof without the Bose (according to my dealer, I can - they say they can put the sunroof in at the dealer, although that sounds scary - but if), should I just get the sunroof without the Bose and have the audio upgraded elsewhere?

I love the sub placement, on the Bose setup - can a car audio place put a sub in there if I stick with the standard setup? I don't care that it's a smaller sub, I just don't want something extra floating around in my car. (I'm a tad OCD about neatness. )

Thanks again!

 

[Derrick_B]

Yes, I would say it's a noticable upgrade from the base system, but nothing huge. Really, it just gives you more speakers that are a little better quality. The sub isn't worth much and sounds really muddy. Heck, the whole system loses composure at moderate to high volume.

I kind of get the feeling you're looking at hatchbacks, but you never really said. The 4-door and 5-door subs are very different. For the 5-door, you can put a bigger sub in the spare tire center. One problem is how you're going to secure the tire if you block the path of the stock bolt. Also, if you do that and use a short bolt for the spare, you have to figure out how to secure the sub. I've done the measurements and you've got about 6" from the bottom of the rim to the under side of the floor. Even allowing room for the fiberglass and baffle, that should be enough room for an 8" (which would be MUCH better than the Bose 5" sub). That should also clear the center bolt (~8-1/4" from edge of bolt to edge of rim). I would try it myself, but I don't want my sound under the floor.

A jackbox/stealthbox is a better option, imo, and should be possible on the 2010's (I've done the measurements for that too). Either way, you'll be looking at a custom fiberglass enclosure, aftermarket amp, 4ga or 8ga wire from the battery, inline fuse, and a line out converter (on the front speakers). The stock amp is pretty worthless. It's 242 watts peak for the whole system and you'll want at least that just for the sub alone, lol.

Honestly, I wish I didn't have the Bose system at all. It's more of a hassle than anything. I really wanted a sunroof though and I don't trust a dealer to install one.

 

[Spleeny]

Wow, thanks for all the info. My mistake for not being clear - yes, it's the htachback I'm looking at.

I have no clue what a stealthbox is, but I'll bet Google does and I'll go from there. (This is what their website has - you said you measured, and this would still work on the 2010? Or were you referring to a different sub? $800, eek.)

Speaking of upgrading the sound system, does getting a new stereo negate the dash controls, or can it all be wired to work together? And can the factory stereo do anything with the new speakers, or am I in for a penny in for a pound here?

As for having a dealer install the sunroof (sorry for threadjacking!): I admit I find myself skeptical. Having said how much you wanted the sunroof and how much you dislike the Bose setup, what would you do if you had it to do over again: pay for the factory sunroof & Bose and replace the Bose later -or- gamble on a dealer competently installing a sunroof?

Thanks again!

 

[Derrick_B]

The JL stealthbox might work with the 2010's. I really don't know because I can't measure the spare tire contours of the 1st gen. What I do know is that the JL stealthbox is expensive ($800) and raises the floor by a considerable amount (about 4", from what I've read). It's basically the last thing I would do.

The jackbox/stealthbox I was referring to goes in the area on the driver's side that normally houses the jack. They're fiberglass with a MDF baffle (what the sub mounts to) and attach to the car using the threaded bolt hole normally used to secure the jack. Once you take a look in there yourself, you'll see what I'm talking about. Like I said before, it SHOULD work, but I haven't tried it yet. That does mean you have to find a new home for the jack, but I'll leave that up to you. I'm ditching the stock amp, so that's where my jack is going. As of now, my amp is going somewhere else, but I'm not giving up that secret

If I had it to do over again, I might let a dealer install my sunroof if they could give me a full warranty on it and I could see an example of their work. However, I think having a factory sunroof and Bose system does help the resale a little and I will be returning mine to stock prior to sale/trade-in.

 

[pipboy2006]

Thanks man, that really help!