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Can someone share the information on how to do the virtual dyno? I see the menu for it in mazda edit but I have no idea what values to put in for the '13 skyactiv. I would be more than glad to do one from my very first log and one from my last log and post the results.
 

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Can someone share the information on how to do the virtual dyno? I see the menu for it in mazda edit but I have no idea what values to put in for the '13 skyactiv. I would be more than glad to do one from my very first log and one from my last log and post the results.
In the log viewer graph tab, select the rpm range around the WOT run, so that its highlighted pink, and leave about 150 rpm on either side (the graph gets skewed if you don't). Then under the dyno tab, your dyno will appear. Make sure to update the info for your car: Weight with all passengers in it (its about 1300 kg for the 13 skyactiv MTX sedan with no passengers and near full tank, 1340 kg for auto sedan), wheel parameters (stock is 205/55/16), frontal area (I use 2.2 after some research), drag (0.27 for the 13 sedan, 0.29 for hatch), enter gear ratios for 3rd gear, then final drive ratio (MTX: 1.3 -3rd and 4.105-final drive ratio, Autobox: 1.452- 3rd and 3.893-final drive ratio), correction (leave this at 1 unless you know your amount of drivetrain loss), and the average intake temp throughout the WOT run, under air temp. FYI, you can do this separately in 2 runs, then paste one into the others curve using the copy/paste function under the graph.

Let me know what your 40-60 and 60-80 mph times are. I would love to see some results from Dynotronics tuning of the skyactiv 2.0.
 

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Thanks a ton. I always do my WOT logs in the exact same spot to keep my results very consistent. However my dyno numbers are going to look weird because I WOT log going uphill but I should be able to get an idea of the amount difference from stock to now. I will attempt to find a flat spot to do a log to get a fairly accurate Vdyno but its pretty hard to do around here.
 

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Thanks a ton. I always do my WOT logs in the exact same spot to keep my results very consistent. However my dyno numbers are going to look weird because I WOT log going uphill but I should be able to get an idea of the amount difference from stock to now. I will attempt to find a flat spot to do a log to get a fairly accurate Vdyno but its pretty hard to do around here.
Np. Yeah, if you have to dyno uphill, your Hp & Tq values will be lower, but you can look at % difference to get a more accurate picture of the improvement compared to stock. I appreciate you attempting to get results from a flat spot. For the 40-60 or 60-80 test, you can do each range separately if you only have a limited amount of flat road. Just make sure you get WOT in 3rd on the start of your flat stretch, at least 5-10 mph prior to the start speed (eg. 40 mph) so that the power smooths out (normal MAF reading, engine timing, VVT, AFRs, etc.) when you hit the start speed. Using the same stretch of road definitely makes it more accurate.
 

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ok you guys with the skyactive; I need a crash test dummy, errr, victim for our new file for these cars.

Here is the deal, you let us baseline your car on the dyno, and datalog, we will then adjust the ecu calibration file and see what we can find to make this little jewel faster/quicker.

This can take three-five files to get right, so I would really prefer someone nearby(austin, san antonio).

What you get is a free tune, dyno sheets, and bragging rights to being the first tuned skyactive car in the world!

Let me know if anybody is interested.

BTW, looking for 2012 mazda 3 2.5's and mazda6 2.5's as well. same offer

Joe McClughan
Dynotronics,Inc
Have you found the 2012 Sky needed for your test?
 

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I am in Austin, bought a 2013 skyactive about a month ago. Would be interested in talking about tuning if you haven't found anyone yet.
I would definitely go with orange virus tuning. Just finished my tune with them and it is amazing! By the way would you be interested in a group buy for 4-2-1 headers for the skyactiv?
 

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I have the k&n air filter installed. The car seems to respond just a little bit better. No more stuck on one gear forever.
Did you disconnect your battery at some point? If so then it's the TCM for the trans that got refreshed and causing your shift points to change.
 
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