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VT didn't seem to think it would be a problem with the stick shift, the woman I'm working with didn't bat an eye when I said it was a manual. I'm going through with this regardless though so we'll see!
In all reality, I don't think you'll have a problem with the 2.0. If it makes 200 or so at the wheels, realistically thats not really all that much more than a 2.5 with a decent tune. If anything the weak point will be the clutch. I believe that was where Corksport had some issues with their turbo test car.
 

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In all reality, I don't think you'll have a problem with the 2.0. If it makes 200 or so at the wheels, realistically thats not really all that much more than a 2.5 with a decent tune. If anything the weak point will be the clutch. I believe that was where Corksport had some issues with their turbo test car.
Seems like it'll be around 250-260 at the crank, 200-220 at the wheels. I'm not super concerned about the transmission. I've taught 3 people stick shift on my car, if the clutch hasn't went yet it never will😂
 

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What Arathol is speaking of is the holding power of the clutch... the ability to NOT spontaneously slip due to its torque rating being exceeded (at least that's what I think he's saying).
 

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Yup, your car makes about 135 ft/lbs at the wheels, and thats at 5k rpm. Big difference when you jump up to over 200. Clutch longevity may suffer somewhat.....especially if the torque curve significantly increases low end power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
Seems like it'll be around 250-260 at the crank, 200-220 at the wheels. I'm not super concerned about the transmission. I've taught 3 people stick shift on my car, if the clutch hasn't went yet it never will😂
I'd figure 220+whp, but probably less than 200ft/lb torque to the wheels
 
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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Yup, your car makes about 135 ft/lbs at the wheels, and thats at 5k rpm. Big difference when you jump up to over 200. Clutch longevity may suffer somewhat.....especially if the torque curve significantly increases low end power.
Ya it seems reasonable the clutch longevity is likely reduced, but a fair trade I think
 

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Ya it seems reasonable the clutch longevity is likely reduced, but a fair trade I think
I guess if you want a more long lasting clutch I would assume upping the clutch to a stage 1 or 2 would increase stress
on the transmission
 

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All power upgrades result in increased stresses on the rest of the powertrain, braking, cooling, and suspension systems. Typically this leads to shorter equipment life, without approaching the upgrade holistically, as part of a complete system.
It appears that the OP has approached this upgrade rationally, with realistic expectations and a mitigation strategy. Time will expose any weak links in the system(s), but I hope this proves to be a fun and reliable upgrade.

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The OP has approached this upgrade rationally, with realistic expectations and a mitigation strategy. Time will expose any weak links in the system(s), but I hope this proves to be a fun and reliable upgrade.

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Just gotta get that price point down, it's pretty expensive IMO.
 
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I think this is priced pretty well actually. $4k for any kind of forced induction kit is pretty reasonable.
Doubt it will ever be less.
MX5 FI kits start at about $4K with no tuning.
 
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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Just gotta get that price point down, it's pretty expensive IMO.
In my estimates I was referencing $5-6k but that's rounding up and including optional add-ons (including ultra-light battery and oil cooler)
The kit is about $4k + Nissan GTR Spark plugs, it's actually really reasonable for complete forced induction kit.

And it turns the 2.5L into a 3.5L, that still gets 26/36mpg city/freeway mileage (though lately I've had a very heavy foot and managed my worst ever 20mpg drive into work, because I kept launching as hard as I could :devilish:)
 

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In my estimates I was referencing $5-6k but that's rounding up and including optional add-ons (including ultra-light battery and oil cooler)
The kit is about $4k + Nissan GTR Spark plugs, it's actually really reasonable for complete forced induction kit.

And it turns the 2.5L into a 3.5L, that still gets 26/36mpg city/freeway mileage (though lately I've had a very heavy foot and managed my worst ever 20mpg drive into work, because I kept launching as hard as I could :devilish:)
It's still not as cheap as the electric superchargers on eBay :p
 

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It's still not as cheap as the electric superchargers on eBay :p
Your better off just adding some vents in the hood, maybe some auxiliary cooling fans for the engine bay too. Both of those options will gain you much much more on a hot track day than an eBay electric s/c lol.
 
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