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I received a "Welcome to Mazda" box in the mail last week and one of items in the box talked about a 10K mile test trip that was performed. The car was then disassembled and no wear was found. I was surprised that a longer term test was not performed since 10K miles is not really that much for today's cars.

I would like to hear about SkyActiv owners with 50K miles or more and what their experience has been
with respect to reliability and how the quality (e.g. ride, rattles, squeaks, interior wear, exterior wear) and performance (mileage, acceleration, braking) has been.
 

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I have a 2013 cx-5 with 2.0 ...just about 47k on it. 0 issues.

Going to be sending my oil into blacklabs at the next change to see some wear numbers. Will probably also have my "lifetime" transmission fluid changed.
 

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I received a "Welcome to Mazda" box in the mail last week and one of items in the box talked about a 10K mile test trip that was performed. The car was then disassembled and no wear was found. I was surprised that a longer term test was not performed since 10K miles is not really that much for today's cars.

I would like to hear about SkyActiv owners with 50K miles or more and what their experience has been
with respect to reliability and how the quality (e.g. ride, rattles, squeaks, interior wear, exterior wear) and performance (mileage, acceleration, braking) has been.
I would be surprised if there was any wear at 10K miles on most any modern car. I have seen Miata engines with 200k with no visible wear. Good designs combined with proper maintenance will do wonders.
 

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Going to be sending my oil into blacklabs at the next change to see some wear numbers. Will probably also have my "lifetime" transmission fluid changed.
What about the "lifetime brake fluid"? That's in quotes because I've been unable to discover any mention of flushing the brake fluid in any of the maintenance/service documentation that came with the car, or that is available online. That one really leaves me scratching my head, as the average owner is never going to think to request a brake fluid change. Who knows, maybe the dealer checks the brake fluid for moisture content each time it services the car, even though that's not on the list of inspections in our docs. Assuming you take your car to the dealer, of course, which I've done only twice in 33K miles.

As for that "lifetime" transaxle fluid, I stopped buying BMWs when they decided that their owners were so uninformed that they would buy the BMW-as-transportation-appliance idea. Low cost of ownership! Free maintenance! Yeah, right.

As we intend to keep the car until it's used up, I had both the brake fluid and the transaxle fluid on the MZ3 changed at 30K / 21 months. I'll continue to change the transaxle fluid every 30K, and the brake fluid every two years or less.
 

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I'm at 46k right now on my 2014 mz3 and so far no problem. Only problem I constantly run into is the HUD not coming up at times. Been happening for a long time already but finally had time and got it replaced by dealer yesterday. Extended warranty came in handy lol The service advisor also told me I might have a lot of carbon build up and recommended me a service that cleans the MAF and other stuff for $249. I passed on it.
 

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Don't i need to rev the shit out of my DI engine to for it to go past 50k? Carbon build up?
Um, no, why? As long as the motor is running properly at the correct operating temperature it should take care of itself. High rpms don't have a lot to do with it. Its temperature management at the intake valve that is supposed to prevent build up.
 

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I'm at 46k right now on my 2014 mz3 and so far no problem. Only problem I constantly run into is the HUD not coming up at times. Been happening for a long time already but finally had time and got it replaced by dealer yesterday. Extended warranty came in handy lol The service advisor also told me I might have a lot of carbon build up and recommended me a service that cleans the MAF and other stuff for $249. I passed on it.
I was thinking the HUD not coming up from time to time was a software issue. So they replaced it? I have not updated yet though. Looking to go soon. I also have latest software on a USB. But since still under warranty gonna have them do it.
 

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I have 74k and so far so good. Mine is Japanese built and so far doesn't use any oil. I do have a slight clunk coming from the drivers side when either going straight across a dip or turning right but the dealer "can't hear it." They did say they raised it up and everything looks tight.
 

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I had a 2013 with 69K hard miles on her...no problems mechanically. Had the engine and trans modules flashed/updated other than that oil changed at 5K using Castrol 0W20 or MAZDA oil and still had original brakes all around. I'm in Florida and its hot....and I drive I95 daily. My 2016 seems slower to me though.
 

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I was thinking the HUD not coming up from time to time was a software issue. So they replaced it? I have not updated yet though. Looking to go soon. I also have latest software on a USB. But since still under warranty gonna have them do it.
I thought it was software too, but every time they update the software it still happens. They replaced it for me and so far so good. Also my battery was going bad, sometimes gets hard starts shaking the car while turning on and noticed the HIDs flickering when turning on at night, when set to auto. Changed the battery yesterday and everything back to normal now :)
 

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I thought it was software too, but every time they update the software it still happens. They replaced it for me and so far so good. Also my battery was going bad, sometimes gets hard starts shaking the car while turning on and noticed the HIDs flickering when turning on at night, when set to auto. Changed the battery yesterday and everything back to normal now :)
Ok thanks bud. Got to start bugging Mazda. Ya the battery starts to go and things get funky sometimes. Need to actually check my battery. Been acting a little weird as well.
 

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Don't i need to rev the shit out of my DI engine to for it to go past 50k? Carbon build up?
Reving the engine to redline, aka "drive it like you stole it" or "the Italian tuneup," probably doesn't have much to do with the DI syndrome.

Driving the engine like that is reputed to help clear out carbon inside the combustion chamber and on piston tops and other surfaces exposed to inside the combustion chamber.

However, I believe the DI syndrome is related to carbon buildup not in the combustion chamber, but instead on the back side of the intake valves. This carbon buildup is supposedly due to oil vapors in the crankcase that are not constantly cleaned off by injection of gasoline from the back-side of the intake valves as it is on non-DI designs.

As stated earlier, Mazda has designed a "fix" that hopefully will alleviate or even eliminate this syndrome. Time will tell for all of us who keep our cars long enough.
 

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I received a "Welcome to Mazda" box in the mail last week and one of items in the box talked about a 10K mile test trip that was performed. The car was then disassembled and no wear was found. I was surprised that a longer term test was not performed since 10K miles is not really that much for today's cars.

I would like to hear about SkyActiv owners with 50K miles or more and what their experience has been
with respect to reliability and how the quality (e.g. ride, rattles, squeaks, interior wear, exterior wear) and performance (mileage, acceleration, braking) has been.
I have 2016 Mazda CX 3 Touring just turning 49k miles 2 dayd ago. What Ive changed so far cover mostly on the front end suspension setup since I live in NYC.... You know dealing with bunch of potholes, bumpy roads, snow, etc. As far as engine reliability, with Castrol GTX 0W-20, it has been running smooth. You might want to D&F your ATF. Mine turned out to be dark/brownish in color so when the dealer suggested that Mazda doesnt need a transmission fluid change, that was purely bogus. I started to have hard shifting going in 48k miles, and tranny gives a slight jerk... However after the D&F, my transmission shift like buttahhh. At 60k miles also check your rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid if your vehicle is awd... You need to scrutinize most oils that run in Mazda vehicles, with a change in oil related parts, better change it to avoid more possible unwanted damages to your drivetrain...
 

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I have 74k and so far so good. Mine is Japanese built and so far doesn't use any oil. I do have a slight clunk coming from the drivers side when either going straight across a dip or turning right but the dealer "can't hear it." They did say they raised it up and everything looks tight.
Ive dealt with so many clunking noise coming from the front end so here is my .02 cent:
Check your front struts, swaybar links and bushing, inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, CV axles, and motor mounts cause that mostly tied up with the clunking noise you hear if you go over the bumps, when turning wheels..
 

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I had a 2013 with 69K hard miles on her...no problems mechanically. Had the engine and trans modules flashed/updated other than that oil changed at 5K using Castrol 0W20 or MAZDA oil and still had original brakes all around. I'm in Florida and its hot....and I drive I95 daily. My 2016 seems slower to me though.
Change the plugs brother
 

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I have 2016 Mazda CX 3 Touring just turning 49k miles 2 dayd ago. What Ive changed so far cover mostly on the front end suspension setup since I live in NYC.... You know dealing with bunch of potholes, bumpy roads, snow, etc. As far as engine reliability, with Castrol GTX 0W-20, it has been running smooth. You might want to D&F your ATF. Mine turned out to be dark/brownish in color so when the dealer suggested that Mazda doesnt need a transmission fluid change, that was purely bogus. I started to have hard shifting going in 48k miles, and tranny gives a slight jerk... However after the D&F, my transmission shift like buttahhh. At 60k miles also check your rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid if your vehicle is awd... You need to scrutinize most oils that run in Mazda vehicles, with a change in oil related parts, better change it to avoid more possible unwanted damages to your drivetrain...
I'm not going to say that changing the fluid was the wrong thing to do. In fact quite the opposite. Your mileage is high enough to warrant it and you were having issues. This would be my first step too!

Only point I wanted to make was not to judge the fluid on the colour. Transmission fluid is naturally light brown much like engine oil. The red colour comes from dye that is added to it. This is to reduce the chance of it being confused with engine oil, especially at factory where thousands could be affected.

That dye will work its way out over time so doesn't indicate fluid condition well. There are other indications that you'll find more helpful:

- mileage and use (just as you did). Higher temperature climates, more city driving than highway, haling heavy loads or driving through hilly roads often. These will increase heat in the trans and break down the fluid earlier. The mileage is a given. I change around 120k kms. I'm too lazy to do a conversion.

- colour is only useful once it starts to get to a dark brown or worse. By then it's probably well overdue.

- unusual behavior such as delayed or harsh shifts, again just like you picked up on.

- fluid smell. Shouldn't smell burnt at all. That's an indication of oil breakdown.

- rub a little between your fingers. Should feel very smooth and not gritty.
 

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I think brand-new, fresh Mazda-supplied ATF for the 6AT transmission is blue. It can and does darken markedly... and no longer can any blue tinge be visible (if dark-enough). I personally am of the school that 80,000 km / 50,000 miles is the right time to change (along with filter... using the drop-the-pan method), and more frequent if an abnormal usage of the car is evident (per your description above).

Smart, also, to check the torque values on the valve body (using an inch-pounds 1/4" torque wrench). Use the manual to know the correct torque. Loose bolting can cause transmission misbehaviour...
 
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