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I thought mazda thought this through. They released a paper on how they with trick head design, a special coating and a few other things keep the valves above400 deg f At that temp or above the deposits would stay liquid and be burned off. It was one of the reasons I got the 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
That powerfoam would be great if our intake manifolds were shaped differently. Looks like you need gravity or a straight shot to get it onto the valves. :( I guess you'd have to remove the manifold, which doesn't look all that difficult.

I realize the deposits aren't that bad compared to VW/Audi engines, but how bad will it be at 50k? 100k? As I said, I haven't noticed any effects on HP or MPG at this point, but with my warranty running out shortly, I just want to see if Mazda even has a temporary "approved" remedy for it.
 

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Would using Shell gas help? They advertise that their gas has things that help prevent build ups from happening. I use Shell every once in a while, but after seeing some of these pics, I think I am going to do it more often.
 

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I am switching oil to amsoil (currently using mobil1).
I've been using shell since day 1. Hopefuly not alot of build up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I've used almost exclusively shell gasoline, as there are 2 of them next to my house. At least my injectors should be clean! :stuart:
 

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This build up has nothing to do with the gas you put in your car or what engine oil you use. It's from the emissions control system. In the old days blow by from the combustion process was vented out the valve cover and into the engine bay and ultimately into the atmosphere.
Now Federal law mandates that these byproducts of the combustion process are to be put through the engine to be burned a second time. The problem is that the inert gases aren't sent directly to the combustion chamber. They are sent to the intake manifold and mixed with fresh air from the throttle body that the car uses for normal combustion. As these gases flow over the intake valves and into the combustion chamber some of the inert gas that contains oily residue sticks to the valve stems and the tops of the valve. The heat from the engine make this oily residue coke up on the valve. It reduces efficiency by slowing down air flow. You will lose power and mileage over time. None of the companies have an answer to this problem other than cleaning the intake valves when they are completely fouled up.
Were in good company. Audi, Porsche, VW and others use direct injection.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Toyota/Lexus now uses additional injectors in the intake ports to keep the valves clean on their DI engines. Also, almost all new engine designs are incorporating DI, so someone's bound to come up with a system that avoids this.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
On a side note, I'd love to see the intake valves on someone's engine who's been running an SRI or performance air filter for a considerable amount of miles. One would think the added silicates (from worse filtration) couldn't help the situation.
 

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^That is a good point, I am curious as well, since I have an SRI. I thought I recalled reading somewhere that the medium of the CS SRI filter has been filtration and thus, a cleaner engine. Could be wrong.
 

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Corksport uses AEM dryflow filters which filter as good or better than paper filters depending on dirt loading.
 

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the foam filters flow more air... and because they flow more air they flow more dirt. Paper filters filter flow less air so they filter better... it's been proven
Foam/aem/oiled ect all flow more air than paper filters and let more dirt in to the engine.
Air Filtration Test - Bob is the Oil Guy
AEM & AFE are not foam filters. That is a different kind of filter. AEM and AFE are synthetic fiber filters and they do filter as well, and sometimes better, than paper filters while having larger dust holding capacities.
 

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AEM & AFE are not foam filters. That is a different kind of filter. AEM and AFE are synthetic fiber filters and they do filter as well, and sometimes better, than paper filters while having larger dust holding capacities.
Read the rest of my post.
Prove your statement, otherwise I stand behind mine that aftermarket filters like AEM, k&n and the like flow more air and more dirt.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
If the aem/afe filters filter better than OEM, then they flow worse. The only way you can get better filtration with more flow is by using a larger filter element. Even then, the only time increased flow would even make a difference is at WOT during the upper end of the RPM range, and even highly clogged paper filters only decreased performance slightly under those conditions. And the BS that aftermarket filters give better economy is all marketing. Maybe with carbureted vehicles, but not on MAF/O2 sensor equipped fuel injected vehicles.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air_Filter_Effects_02_26_2009.pdf
 

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Read the rest of my post.
Prove your statement, otherwise I stand behind mine that aftermarket filters like AEM, k&n and the like flow more air and more dirt.
From my own UOAs, using a stock paper filter the Si elements came in at 15ppm while running the AEM Dry Flow for twice as long came back with Si value of 6ppm.

Synthetic fibers are smaller and stronger than cellulose. This alloows them to be closer together and still let the same amount of air through. This combined with manipulating the macro surface area makes anything possible.

If you are familiar with HVAC air filters and MERV ratings, it is possible to design a MERV 11 (filters down to very small particles sizes) with the same pressure drop (flow rating) as a MERV 7 filter.
 

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If the aem/afe filters filter better than OEM, then they flow worse. The only way you can get better filtration with more flow is by using a larger filter element. ...
You make too many assumptions. Your statement only holds true if using the same fibrous material. Not all fibrous material has the same diamater/thickness.
 

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No amount of paper-pushing beats physics. With individual exceptions, the Corksport SRI has been giving Skyactiv cars better fuel economy, myself included. It has little to do with flow, but everything to do with pumping losses at low-rpm partial throttle operation. The less work your engine has to do to overcome vacuum (from intake) and backpressure (from exhaust), the more efficient the air pump will be -- assuming proper ECU compensation. This is why it's so important to reset the ECU after doing these mods, the Skyactiv ECU sometimes freaks out and runs rich post-modding, and that kills your power and fuel economy simultaneously.
 

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From my own UOAs, using a stock paper filter the Si elements came in at 15ppm while running the AEM Dry Flow for twice as long came back with Si value of 6ppm.

Synthetic fibers are smaller and stronger than cellulose. This alloows them to be closer together and still let the same amount of air through. This combined with manipulating the macro surface area makes anything possible.

If you are familiar with HVAC air filters and MERV ratings, it is possible to design a MERV 11 (filters down to very small particles sizes) with the same pressure drop (flow rating) as a MERV 7 filter.
I am familiar with hvac filters, while it is possible to design a merv 11 filter with the same WC as a merv 7 or 8 the filter area MUST be increased to maintain the WC. Which is why most ditch the crappy 1" filters in favor of a 4" or 5" filter.
From what I have seen and measured the WC between the paper filters and the high flow filters is considerable but comes at a cost of higher dirt deposits in the oil. This was proven with oil analysis. The pleats are the same size which also proves my point. They improved the flow but decreased the dirt capture.
By all means run a highflow filter but change your oil more often.
 

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No amount of paper-pushing beats physics. With individual exceptions, the Corksport SRI has been giving Skyactiv cars better fuel economy, myself included. It has little to do with flow, but everything to do with pumping losses at low-rpm partial throttle operation. The less work your engine has to do to overcome vacuum (from intake) and backpressure (from exhaust), the more efficient the air pump will be -- assuming proper ECU compensation. This is why it's so important to reset the ECU after doing these mods, the Skyactiv ECU sometimes freaks out and runs rich post-modding, and that kills your power and fuel economy simultaneously.
newb question here.How to reset ECU?my avg never drop 30 driving hwy everyday at 65mph,do i need a reset?sorry for off topic
 
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